View Full Version : Dodgey dump valve
This morning my car seems to be making a whistling noise when the turbo is running and has about 10% less power and loads of turbo lag between gearchanges,
Just wondering if anyone thinks it might be cause by a dodgey dump valve?,
I have read quite a few threads about this on here and they seem rather unreliable, I am now thinking of getting a forge dv006 to replace it with, Is this the best one?
Mosser,
Apologies ~ can't for the life of me think what the symptoms of a faulty DV are at the moment.....brain fade.
However....since you are planning to Upsolute.....you may take some reassurance from this thread
http://www.upsolute.com/cgi-bin/board/upsolute/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=000477
That the forge dv006 will do the job nicely.....(guy in the thread is running an audi TT180.)
Cheers Mik!,
I have ordered a forge dv006 direct from forge themselves, it cost £90 +6.50 for next day delivery,
Now i think about it, I recon the dump valve has been failing for the last month or so as the turbo whistle hasnt been constant at full throttle for a while now, its been up and down in pitch which might account for my lack of power until i hit 4000revs, then my car really takes off!,
I will let you know tomorrow evening what sort of difference it makes.
lack of power until i hit 4000revs, then my car really takes off!,
My cupra does the same , seems to take on a new lease of life after 4000 rpm, but for different sounds from turbo i dont know?
is it a engine trait to go better after 4000rpm, or is a dodgy dump valve?
dave
the turbo note is only really noticable if you have the drivers window open a little, if you are shut in you dont notice it,
From speaking to other people on here about a week ago, most peoples leon's torque curve is quite flat, but mine likes to be kept above 4000rpm to get really good performance out of it,
I will let you know tomorrow if the new dump valve makes any difference though
mmmm HOW MUCH ??
we do em @ £79.99 all inc , either fitted or delivered
never mind , let me know , did they send you NEW clips/fixings for the pipes , it's just im interested in what they are using , cheers
Damm!!, wish i had know that yesterday!!, do you have an online stock and price list? cos i will consult that before i buy something again!!, am thinking about buying a boost gauge tomorrow, the cheapest i have fond in £17.99 for a T.I.M., but the one i like the look of is the power engineering one at £45 because its scale is -15 to +20 psi
ibizacupra
26-10-2001, 08:21
Originally posted by Mosser
Damm!!, wish i had know that yesterday!!, do you have an online stock and price list? cos i will consult that before i buy something again!!, am thinking about buying a boost gauge tomorrow, the cheapest i have fond in £17.99 for a T.I.M., but the one i like the look of is the power engineering one at £45 because its scale is -15 to +20 psi
The TIM guage is a bit tacky looking.
Your power Engineering one sounds the better looking.
What POD are you going to use.
Bill
I was going to use the tim pod for the power engineering gauge, do you know of any better ones?,
I am going to fit it over the weekend as i want to see what the boost pressure is with and without the upsolute upgrade that i'm having done on wednesday
The trick here guys is ALWAYS try Amethyst first. Flapper can get you about anything you want, fit it, still service you car afterwards, get it cheaper, give you the support.
Thats why they are our preferred dealer. My advice would be to try them first, its just a way of paying back all the help they give on this board.
Mosser, what's your engine code? I have had the same problem, "nothing" happens below 4000 rpm.
My engine is a AUQ, but I haven't seen many cars with this code.
I am wondering if it has something to do with this engine.
The last time my car was in for some major repairs (I have had a lot of problems :( ) they managed to fix it. It had somthing to do with the accelerator pedal (is this the correct name?) and a sensor, I really don't remember now.
My car was running very bad the first couple of minutes before it got warm, does you have the same experiance?
By the way, because of all the problems I have had, I am getting my car replaced by a brand new one in a couple of months :D
I love the Cupra, it runs like a :devil:
MOSSER:
Have you any idea whether SMC Windsor will still service your car under warranty if you go with a Forge DV ??
I have to pick a dealer for my Cupra so that an account can be set up for servicing, and I'm deliberating between SMC Windor and the Emmer Green dealer near reading ....
(I'd love to have Amethyst do it, but I'm not sure I can make the time to travel that far :rolleyes: ..... )
Mind you I suppose if the car is sourced from SMC, only they will give me a courtesy car - am I right ???
Uffeg
Wrong forum i know, but i have an Ibiza Cupra 20VT, and when mine is cold i get no response from the turbo whatsoever, i have to drive for about a 3minutes then i get a massive surge.
I have spoke to the dealer and they have told me to take it in, am unsure on the problem though, have the Forge valve on order.
As its my first turbo'd car im unsure on operating parameters etc
thanks
ibizacupra
26-10-2001, 16:52
Originally posted by Mosser
I was going to use the tim pod for the power engineering gauge, do you know of any better ones?,
I am going to fit it over the weekend as i want to see what the boost pressure is with and without the upsolute upgrade that i'm having done on wednesday
The POD is Ok... The guage is naff.
Bill
ibizacupra
26-10-2001, 16:53
Originally posted by Saul
Uffeg
Wrong forum i know, but i have an Ibiza Cupra 20VT, and when mine is cold i get no response from the turbo whatsoever, i have to drive for about a 3minutes then i get a massive surge.
I have spoke to the dealer and they have told me to take it in, am unsure on the problem though, have the Forge valve on order.
As its my first turbo'd car im unsure on operating parameters etc
thanks
This is'nt a case of the ECU still being in its warm up phase is it? They won't allow full power until full temp has been reached from its many sensors.
Bill
to be honest most dealers would have replaced a few of em by now so they probably wouldnt blame you for putting a forge one on (mind you some CAN be nit picky ) if it helps when i send a valve out the 2 main clips are easily undone to replace the original valve and the clamp up top one, i usually send a few spare , just in case you want to change it before it goes in
:P
Do you know where i get the engine code from?, the only number i can find is (i think) the chassis number
@mosser:
a broken dump valve will make whining or fluttering sounds, when the turbo kicks in and especially between gear changes. The symptoms you describe, about power being only delivered over 4000rpm could also be caused by a broken valve. If the valve releases turbo pressure nearly all the time, because it does not close under 4000rpm this would lead to exactly the effect you describe.
In general:
The forge can be replaced by the normal valve in about 5 minutes for warranty claims (if you have a touchy dealer).
@lex
Well i fitted my forge dv006 today, and it is quite a biit larger than the stock plasic one,
I fitted it myself in a layby on the a23 near brighton with just 2 screwdrivers!!, it took about 15 minutes and wasntat all difficult to do
The first thing i noticed about it is that it is a lot quieter than the old plastic one, and when changing gears it is soooo much smoother!, It seems to make the car faster on accellerating because there is no hesitancy between gear changes, you just slip it in to the next gear, reapply the power and it is there instantly accelerating away, before there was a slight hesitancy between gear changes whilst the turbo spun up, not any more:D
The 4000rpm power surge has settled down a lot now, it hasnt gone totally, but it has cut it down by about 70%, and i now have a lot more low down torque which means that i dont have to push the engine all the way to the red line to extract the power from the engine, in fact i cought myself out a couple of times today at low revs, putting my foot down and and accelerating a lot harder than i'm used to :D
I think that my old valve was definatly faulty, but an inspection through all the ports and by blowing hard into it didnt reveal any problems with it,
Overall i am very glad i changed to the forge dump valve and would highly recommend it to anyone still running the standard bosch plastic one!