View Full Version : TurboXS Dual Stage Boost Controller
cmsmpau1
28-11-2002, 12:56
Hi just a quick message about these boost controllers. This is my first turbo car so i dont know too much yet.
The Dual stage Boost Controller says it can add 12psi. As my car is stock with a Hurricane Inductin Kit (cheers Bill) will i get 12psi, and most of all what performance gains will i get. Seems too good to be true for 170 notes.
Cheers for all ya help
Mark Paul:confused:
Don't really know this particular controller in detail, but you should not and can not run your car with EXTRA 12 psi! A MAXIMUM of 12 psi on the stock ECU software may be still safe however and it may take you up to around 180 BHP (just a guess). Btw, ECU has got a quite efficient boost monitoring system and in the case it measures higher actual boost than the requested, it will cause the throttle plate to close and open the diverter valve which will vent ALL the boost and you will end having no boost at all. I know this for sure ;), believe me. Aftermarket boost controllers may work however (on the stock chip), but only at a moderate setting which may not worth the effort at all (neither this money). You may give a cheap controller a try (f.eg DawesDevice), but i would not bother at all, save for a chip instead.
and it'll run lean & you'll muller your engine
what might work on an old turbo probably won't work on a 'new' turbo, although the principle is the same, the "how it does it" is different
I thinks it would be the other way round...
the 20vt stardard ECU's have fueling 'windows' to cover boost spikes etc I think its upto 1.2bar. this means that if the boost it higher the ecu will add more fuel, so it wont run lean.
Simply run more boost on an older turbo and it wont have the fuel and POP there goes a piston. add more fuel and youd be ok...
Cuprasport2000
28-11-2002, 16:38
I posted about these a few weeks ago and the general concensus is that they are a risk to the turbo. One or two people said that the 20VT engine has a risk margin built in but the problem is that if an unexperienced person uses this, it could quite easily mean a new turbo or engine...
Fuelling should be adequate up to 1.0 bar as far as i know. 1.2 Bar and you'll run lean! But the point here is not being lean (you can't get to that point actually), BUT delivering higher boost than ECU's request which will then release all boost.
1.2 bar and it'll go into limp as the knock sensor kicks in..
Wont it?
I think the idea of these controllers are too allow the ECU to think everything is normal... to the ECU It willl look like normal boost levels.. but the valve vill let the boost rise further and then when it gets highenough it opens the wastegate.
The controlers removes the N75 from the system. but leaving it connected will let the ECU think that all is normal.
Its all theroy mind
ibizacupra
29-11-2002, 16:59
Originally posted by smithrc
1.2 bar and it'll go into limp as the knock sensor kicks in..
Wont it?
I think the idea of these controllers are too allow the ECU to think everything is normal... to the ECU It willl look like normal boost levels.. but the valve vill let the boost rise further and then when it gets highenough it opens the wastegate.
The controlers removes the N75 from the system. but leaving it connected will let the ECU think that all is normal.
Its all theroy mind
Nope!
ECU is all seeing all knowing.
MAP sensor is on the car so its knows exactly what boost is being produced. What you remove is its ability to control the boost level.
Hit the hard limit and you do just that.... Limp
I cannot believe the adaption window is large enough to just wind up the boost to these levels and expect the stock ecu programming window to cope. APR, Jabbasport would be out of a job if it worked like that.
Bill
as the car runs quite high compression then your fueling has to be spot on so as not to cause detonation
You cannot substitue chipping for a boost controller (on the 1.8T).
1. Higher boost level will be cut by the ECU.
2. Fuelling, ignition will be still un-optimized.
3. ECU's boost request is gear and throttle dependent while a controller will ask for the same amount of boost no matter how you drive the car.
Therefore chipping cannot be substitued.
There are two "circumstances" i could imagine of using a boost controller.
1. A very light boost increase which would still be safe with ECU's safety margins.
2. Keeping the boost at a fixed, constant value (f.eg racing/track days,...) AFTER being chipped.
if you got one then remapped your car then it would be ok. the turbo xs is an expensive version of the dawes valve. it bleeds of air from the actuator hose but unlike a bleed it keeps constant pressure within the turbo's flow map
£50 and a bit of time setting it up looks a lot more appealing to me than £500 of chip + £1000 insurance hike.
The gains wont be that big. and with careful setup might offer us standard 'can't afford a chip' guys a bit more performance.
I'm not saying it'll be brill and put chip companies out of business as a remap does so much more than up the boost.
50 is OK for a dawesdevice, but i would not give 170 for an XS. I also got a DD (& chip), will hook it up next spring.