tyre pressures & turbo charger

[flash]

could someone clarify the tyre pressures for the ibiza cupra? The sticker in my fuel flap shows pictures of the hatchback, saloon and estate and gives a number for each case below, but it doesn't say whether the front and back tyres should be different.

Also, I think that my turbo charger isn't giving maximum boost. Is there a way of checking if it's working properly without having to take it to the garage?

:cheers:

[Petrolhead Paul]

If you are suffering from a flat spot between 3000 and 4000rpm (where it feels like the boost is holding back) then this is quite normal during the running in period, with 1000-2000 miles on the clock it should disappear.

[Mosser]

You can check what sort of boost your getting by fitting a boost gauge, should cost about £60 for a decent one if you fit it yourself

[flash]

thanks

my car has only done 600 miles. For the first 150 miles the boost from the turbo was pretty strong. It has since tailed off and at the moment you can hardly feel it - it's as though I've got an ordinary 1.8 engine.

Is this like the flat spot which I presume you had petrolhead paul?? Should the boost come back as I do more miles?

[Mosser]

Hey Flash,

I had the exact same problem that you are having about 3 months ago!,

Turned out that the rubber pipe that connected the turbo to the inlet manifold had slipped off from under its jubilee clip on one side and was draining all my pressurised air from the turbo out to the atmosphere!,

Check all you hose connections are tight from the turbo outlet, through the intercooler and onto the inlet manifold

[Petrolhead Paul]

Check out what Mosser suggested first, if its not boosting at all. Mine tended to initially boost OK, pulling strong from 1500rpm until much over 3000-3500rpm when it held back. It would then start boosting again over 4000rpm.
Wait until you've covered several hundred more miles (mine was still holding back at 600 miles), they are still well tight until 2000 miles really. Being an Oettinger 210 conversion (from new) I run mine on Optimax or Super unleaded, but if yours isn't chipped it should be fine on normal unleaded.




Originally posted by flash
thanks

my car has only done 600 miles. For the first 150 miles the boost from the turbo was pretty strong. It has since tailed off and at the moment you can hardly feel it - it's as though I've got an ordinary 1.8 engine.

Is this like the flat spot which I presume you had petrolhead paul?? Should the boost come back as I do more miles?

[Scoobster]

The boosting changes through its development.

When I first got mine I drove it sensibly to run it in as suggested, however the boost was viscious from low revs (1500-1800), and as you say it paused a bit at around 3500 and then picked up a little.

I have done 4400 miles in my car now and have actually just had the ECU reset and the boost pressure adjusted by the dealership as I had questioned my performance. The car now doesn't seem as snappy at low revs and in second it has to wind up to about 2500rpm to get spinning and then it really pulls.

I have noticed that recently in first if I kain it, then it pulls fairly strongly and when it gets to 4000 it seem to spin up off the scale, as soon as I get to 4000rpm the wheels lose traction and the tcs cuts in. It seems a different car to drive each day, it is a lot smoother now and so doesn't seem as quick as it doesn't snap your head off, but if you look at the speedo it is still pulling fast, just it is a balanced acceleration.

If you are noticing no boost at all and you have been pushing your car from new (kaining the boost before 1000miles) then it is possible you have shafted your turbo or dump valve. Take it into the garage and tell them it seems to be sluggish and they will take it out attached to the computer and check to see if the turbo is pressurising properly and if anything is leaking. Get it done while it is under warranty fella..

[flash]

thanks

car booked into garage for tomorrow to look at turbo

can anyone answer my question about tyre pressures?????

:cheers:

[Scoobster]

I believe it is 33 and 32 psi.. only I can't remember which soddin way around it is suppose to be..!! :s hmmmmmmmm

Possibly 33 backs and 32 fronts.. I would suggest looking in your handbook though as I am sure it will say in there.

I haven't actually taken much notice of what mine says inside the fuel cap, but I will have a look if I remember and work out what it means..

Hope you get the turbo/dv thing sorted anyway fella when ya take it in..

My car is back in again next wednesday for the 3rd time to try and sort out the rattles, squeaks and wobbly drivers seat. We will all get there in the end... lol

[Damo]

Hey Scoobz it seems you and I share(d) very similar problems.
I have probably done about 5.5K miles now and sometimes I can go through 1st and 2nd gear without the turbo kicking in. It doesn't happen all the time but it's also not a one off thing either. Sometimes the car really pulls hard in the lower rev range but fizzles out after 3500+ rpm and sometimes it doesn't even cut till after 4500+ rpm, how's that for consistency.
I'm taking my car in next Tuesday to have it looked at along with the air con unit which will only blow hot when on "Hi" setting and anything under that setting just blows cold. I also have lots and lots of rattles which while some are obvious others are intermittent so will be hard to find the cause.
New cars eh, don't you just love em.

Damo
:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :D

[flash]

Turbo charger -

I've now had my car into the garage to look at the turbo charger and they said that they hooked it up to the computer and it showed no faults.

But I'm sure its not right - the car doesn't feel that quick to me.

what I need to know is; if the computer showed no faults, can I assume my "dump valve" is okay. Also, what the hell is a dump valve???????????

:cheers:

[Brian27]

Check out the Mass Air Flow sensor (if you have one on petrol engines, loads of probs with TDi's!) :(

Probs don't show up on tests. See other threads on subject in these forums.

Disconnect it's leads and see if power improves. :fart:

Covered by warranty. :)


- :rockon:

[Scoobster]

When I took mine into the garage and moaned about the lag on the turbo they hooked mine up and said it showed no faults either, but they then went out and drove it and they could see what I meant.

They reset my ECU and said they altered the boost pressures slightly.. dunno how..? or whether they meant that resetting the ecu altered the boost pressures..

Either way it seems better to drive now.. somewhat strange... I am getting a fairly consistent boost (apart from odd flat spots when floored hard and the tcs backs off the pressure), and then a very slight pause at just under 4k and then the wheels lose traction at 4k as the boost comes back and it judders up the road with the tcs crying for help and I decide to change up a gear before hitting the rev limiter.. lol.

Ask them if they reset your ECU? and if not can they do so.. and see if it runs any better..

A faulty DV would not necessarily show up on the computer. The DV acts as a safety device to save the turbo from blowing up. Whenyour turbo spins up to the ridiculous speed they spin at (is it something like 100,000rpm?) they build a large amount of boost (pressurized air). If you then take your foot off the accelerator you don't need the boost, and it needs to be released. There are two types of DV (atmospheric and recirculating), the atmospheric dv dumps the boost to the atmosphere (spooky that init), and you get the 'whoooosh' sound (Cupra's don't have those fitted, unless you buy one). the recirc valve removes the boost and reciculates it within the system back to the turbo so that when you next put your foot down there is already air there to boost with. The DV is suppose to reduce turbo lag and also prolongues the life of the turbo unit itself.

The standard DV's are Bosch units and are made of sh*tty plastic and have diaphragms inside them. These are crap and often can split and tear. This is why many have chosen the Forge Motorsport valves as they are an alloy structure and they use pistons inside them which do not tear or split, so you get better life out of it and you don't get leaks, so you always get nice smooth constant boost with little lag.. which is nice..

I just need to buy a Forge DV now.. having told you they are damn fine.. lol

Hope this info helps..

[flash]

thanks very much -

I'm sure mines not right, despite what my garage says. Do your dealers in Hull know their stuff - Hull's not that far for me.

I've been looking into dump valves, not having a clue what they were until yesterday. Flapper has mentioned (in the Amethyst site) that there are 2 Forge types for same price - 006 which I note from Forge website is a piston DV and 007 which is a diaphragm DV. The latter is a bit smaller and identical in size to the Bosch one - which is the best Forge? - piston or diaphragm.

Also, since the DV doesn't increase power, do the insureres need to know

:cheers:

[mstew20]

I have the 007 and as far as i know by looking at it before i installed it was that it's piston type aswell. Don't notice much from it apart from not as jerky when i lift off ans pick's up quicker. Does't increase power and being black and slightly larger than the standard it's not noticable.

In relation to the pick up my car pull up to 4000 then you feel the pull even more all the way to the limiter. same in every gear. but on occasion does feel sluggish. ?????????????

Mark

[Scoobster]

At present I wouldn't personally reccomend Trenton in Hull.. as I am taking my car back in for the 4th time on moday to sort out the problems they have caused when fixing other problems.. :s

The mechanics I do think know their stuff though.. they are modders themselves.. one of em drives a modded to hell Saxo VTR.. so they are pretty good. They actually recommended changing brakes and stuff.. but I am not sure how the service department will react when it goes in.

Have you tried the Huddesfield dealership? that is quite close to you, and they might be more use..??

Hope you get it sorted fella.. Keep taking it back and saying it doesn't seem right and suggesting it is the DV and they might replace it on the warranty and you will then see if that was the problem.. you can then get a forge..

I was recommended the DV 006 when I e-mailed the guyz at Forge Motorsport, as it is a direct replacement with no need for extra hoses when fitting (just new clips).

It doesn't increse power no.. and it doesn't increase the likelihood of ya car been twocked, so I don't see how it would affect insurance.. tell em if ya like.. if ya can't be arsed.. they will probably never know..

[hopkinsgm]

Originally posted by Scoobster
It doesn't increse power no.. and it doesn't increase the likelihood of ya car been twocked, so I don't see how it would affect insurance.. tell em if ya like.. if ya can't be arsed.. they will probably never know..
Brake upgrades also don't increase power or likelihood of twocing, in fact you'd think they make the car safer? But my insurance company charged me extra for fitting EBC Turbogroove discs & Greenstuff pads on my 8v Ibiza... Insurance, biggest bunch of c*nts out there (with splitter robbing Nova owners a close 2nd...)