mik
05-11-2001, 14:53
Thought I'd go ahead and post my experience for anyone considering tackling an oil change themselves.
The guys at Amethyst already confirmed that your warranty won't be invalidated if you want to do an "interim" oil change between the standard 10K intervals.....
I hit a few "issues" as opposed to problems, but hope this may help you prepare yourselves (since no Haynes manual or similar have yet been released).
Step1
Remove the (aerodynamic?) sump tray to get access to the sump plug. 8xT25 torx screws and 3xphilips (bigger ones) at the front. I'm lucky enough to have access to a 4-post ramp, but you need to ensure you centralise the car properly. I didn't so with the car being so low couldn't get my T25 screwdriver in to one of the screws ~ had to use a T25 "bit" and a small socket with a ratchet. You'll need to raise the car quite a bit to get to the rearmost fixings.
Step2
Remove sump plug and leave to drain. Sump plug is std hex (21mm from memory). Make sure your drip tray is far back ~ the oil comes out fast
Step3
To access oil filter you need to remove upper engine cover. Pop 3 little covers and remove 3x10mm nuts. Lift off.
Step4
Oil filter housing is just to the right of the dipstick. Filter is "weird" paper refil type ~ genuine VW part is 501440215 from www.eurocarparts.com. Housing "cap" is black plastic/nylon "nut" approx 3" diameter.
There must be a VW tool for this ~ I didn't have a big enough spanner (even though I have 2-handed 2.5" jobby!), so stuck a rag round it for protection and used a chain-type oil fiter removal tool. This thing is on tight!
Step5
Replace both seals on filter housing cap and clean up innards. Remove old filter. This has obviosuly been designed to drip all over the engine - it fulfils this purpose perfectly unless you are careful. Again clean inside of housing and replace filter element (with subtle "top" marking to the top). Refit cap using rag & chain again to tighten to torque specified on the cap.
Step6
Replace sump plug and fill with oil ~ book says 5l capacity, but I used the full (ie stupid) 4.5l you get with GTD Magnatec, and my dipstick is showing just over the max fill mark ~ maybe 1mm over. This is important, as overfilling can pollute the cat.
Step7
Run engine and check for leaks. Replace upper & lower covers.
Bottom Line ~ it's more complex than "conventional" oil changes I've carried out before ~ allow yourself enough time and look into tools required beforehand.
:cheers:
The guys at Amethyst already confirmed that your warranty won't be invalidated if you want to do an "interim" oil change between the standard 10K intervals.....
I hit a few "issues" as opposed to problems, but hope this may help you prepare yourselves (since no Haynes manual or similar have yet been released).
Step1
Remove the (aerodynamic?) sump tray to get access to the sump plug. 8xT25 torx screws and 3xphilips (bigger ones) at the front. I'm lucky enough to have access to a 4-post ramp, but you need to ensure you centralise the car properly. I didn't so with the car being so low couldn't get my T25 screwdriver in to one of the screws ~ had to use a T25 "bit" and a small socket with a ratchet. You'll need to raise the car quite a bit to get to the rearmost fixings.
Step2
Remove sump plug and leave to drain. Sump plug is std hex (21mm from memory). Make sure your drip tray is far back ~ the oil comes out fast
Step3
To access oil filter you need to remove upper engine cover. Pop 3 little covers and remove 3x10mm nuts. Lift off.
Step4
Oil filter housing is just to the right of the dipstick. Filter is "weird" paper refil type ~ genuine VW part is 501440215 from www.eurocarparts.com. Housing "cap" is black plastic/nylon "nut" approx 3" diameter.
There must be a VW tool for this ~ I didn't have a big enough spanner (even though I have 2-handed 2.5" jobby!), so stuck a rag round it for protection and used a chain-type oil fiter removal tool. This thing is on tight!
Step5
Replace both seals on filter housing cap and clean up innards. Remove old filter. This has obviosuly been designed to drip all over the engine - it fulfils this purpose perfectly unless you are careful. Again clean inside of housing and replace filter element (with subtle "top" marking to the top). Refit cap using rag & chain again to tighten to torque specified on the cap.
Step6
Replace sump plug and fill with oil ~ book says 5l capacity, but I used the full (ie stupid) 4.5l you get with GTD Magnatec, and my dipstick is showing just over the max fill mark ~ maybe 1mm over. This is important, as overfilling can pollute the cat.
Step7
Run engine and check for leaks. Replace upper & lower covers.
Bottom Line ~ it's more complex than "conventional" oil changes I've carried out before ~ allow yourself enough time and look into tools required beforehand.
:cheers: