Pete or anyone else, brake discs!!

[cordobabrendy]

at the trackday on curborough and also on the motorway i have noticed that if i brake from any sort of high speed (80+) the steering wheel shudders a little until pressed really firmly, also the car seems to shudder also as if it gains and looses friction really quickly, not abs though, feels as if my discs are warped although they are not!!, the pads are greenstuff v4's and the discs are EBC grooved and dimpled "spotties", just wondering if it is that the discs are just crap and if i should put my standard discs back on or else get a set of tarox ones.
Also any reasonable way of getting bigger discs/pads ie. would a set from a larger seat/vw motor fit straight on?? prices if poss as i know shite all about brakes...... :confused:

[Ovv]

Brendy,

Nearly in the same boat as you, except my pads are shagged - sqealing like a banshee- would you recommend greenstuff pads ?
I know bugger all about brakes too - expect mines aint stopping!!!!

Ovv:D

[cordobabrendy]

the greenstuff certainly is better than standard but i swapped my discs and pads at the same time, were awful for the first 600 miles cause there was no fricion at all at the start, had to gradually wear them in...
id say the pagid fast road pads are a better bet although they do make a big mess on the alloys cause of the brake dust, thats the major difference between them, you could also go for yellow stuff, they dont look as well as the greenstuff but have higher tepmerature thresholds, gonna try pagids next with tarox discs as they arnt that expensive, unless a cheap upgrade finds its way to me:devil: :cheers:

[Icecavern]

I need to do a major overhaul of my brakes. I need new discs/pads and the fluid replaced I think. Anyone know anything about fluid? I know dot 4 is the standard stuff but what is dot5.1 and is it worth me changing to it?

Pete

[cordobabrendy]

sorry pete, never saw this thresd again til there now,
the pro's and cons between dot 4 and 5 are as follows

dot 5.1 is not made from the same compounds as dot 5, it is actually the same as dot 4 and is a bit confusing,
DOT5.1 provides superior performance over the other brake fluids discussed here. It has a higher boiling point, either dry or wet, than DOT 3 or 4. In fact, its dry boiling point (about 275 degrees C) is almost as high as racing fluid (about 300 degrees C) and 5.1's wet boiling point (about 175 to 200 degrees C) is naturally much higher than racing's (about 145 C).
DOT5.1 is said to be compatible with all rubber formulations.

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DOT5 doesn't eat paint.
DOT5 does not absorb water and may be useful where water absorption is a problem.
DOT5 is compatible with all rubber formulations
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cons of dot 5
DOT5 does NOT mix with DOT3 or DOT4. Most reported problems with DOT5 are probably due to some degree of mixing with other fluid types. The best way to convert to DOT5 is to totally rebuild the hydraulic system.
Reports of DOT5 causing premature failure of rubber brake parts were more common with early DOT5 formulations. This is thought to be due to improper addition of swelling agents and has been fixed in recent formulations.
Since DOT5 does not absorb water, any moisture in the hydraulic system will "puddle" in one place. This can cause localized corrosion in the hydraulics.
Careful bleeding is required to get all of the air out of the system. Small bubbles can form in the fluid that will form large bubbles over time. It may be necessary to do a series of bleeds.
DOT5 is slightly compressible (giving a very slightly soft pedal), and has a lower boiling point than DOT4.
DOT5 is about twice as expensive as DOT4 fluid. It is also difficult to find, generally only available at selected auto parts stores.
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DOT4 fluid is available at most auto parts stores, and at some (but not all) petrol stations or car shops.
DOT4 fluid does not absorb water as readily as DOT3 fluid.
DOT4 fluid has a higher boiling point than DOT3 fluid, making it more suitable for high performance applications where the brake systems are expected to get hot.
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Cons of dot4
DOT4 fluid eats paint! Small leaks around the master cylinder will eventually dissolve away the paint on your bodywork in the general vicinity of the leak, and then give rust a chance to attack the body of your car!
DOT4 fluid is generally about 50% more expensive than DOT3 fluid.
Since DOT4 fluid still absorbs some water, any moisture absorbed by the fluid can encourage corrosion in the brake lines and cylinders.

[WeeJase]

brendy/pete hve ebc discs and pads on the front of my beezer and can't fault them BUT i have added goodridge hoses and when i get some new fluid back into them (yeh trackday,cooked em good)they should be as they were ,really good, i think your problem may be your standard hoses after a few years they'll start to swell on braking ,imagine the state they get in day in day out.any hoo thats my thoughts or it could just be tramlining have you gone up in size on the wheel front???

[cordobabrendy]

yea mate have been thinking of swapping my hoses, how much did it cost yer??

[WeeJase]

brendy. i paid 70 notes for the hoses but took 3 bloody weeks to get them ,it was either the spotty f*ckwit @halfords being dull or goodridge made them specially (not much call for seat i spose) but they help reduce pedal travel and really firm up the feel of it and they're garanteed for life too,oh and golf ones have the same ends but are different lengths.:cheers: