View Full Version : wheels/ power loss
How do Seat make the track wider on the Ibiza Cupra R. Is the wheel offset changed or something else. Would it have any effect on the car if when fitting different wheels i.e. 17s you changed the offset from the standard 38mm to 35mm?
I also have a power loss problem (usually from cold) ocassionally. After reading some of the threads could this be the air flow meter. Will I have problems at my dealer as I have fitted a Forge DV in getting this looked at under warranty.
as for the R its lists the steering rack + suspension arms as the same as standard ???
mmmm i'll look a bit deeper into the wheel offset etc etc
as for the valve , you shouldnt do , but if you are worried swap it back ?? , if i sent it you you should have got some spare fittings if not call me and i'll send you some :)
My Ibiza 210 has a power loss problem when cold too. I always wait for the engine temp gauge to reach its normal level before putting my foot down, but i have found that you need to still give it an extra couple of minutes. If you don't then the car boosts and then suddenly stops boosting.... its almost like puting your foot on the break!!! Maybe the oil hasn't circulated around enough at that point (Flapper, I think this is what my "Mega Flat Spot" problem was all about!).
Ben
i have heard of a few now , main symptoms are
cr cold , get in start and drive , in a rush .
seems to be not letting the fuel pump pressurise enough , bear in mind these things run a FULL checkover when you turn the lights on the dash :rolleyes: (windows , DOS , EEEK) when stopped and re started seems all ok ? wierd
doesn't cover the after warm up though , new one on me
HEY BOSS , any chance of an extended test drive ???? :devil: for diagnostic purposes only of course :D
ibizacupra
18-11-2001, 16:25
Originally posted by BenS1
My Ibiza 210 has a power loss problem when cold too. I always wait for the engine temp gauge to reach its normal level before putting my foot down, but i have found that you need to still give it an extra couple of minutes. If you don't then the car boosts and then suddenly stops boosting.... its almost like puting your foot on the break!!! Maybe the oil hasn't circulated around enough at that point (Flapper, I think this is what my "Mega Flat Spot" problem was all about!).
Ben
I don't get this problem on mine.... Cold running makes no odds to boost level or delivery. I don't drive hard from cold, but when I do accelerate it is always ready and willing, such that I have to be carefull not to let it get carried away.
You got a boost guage fitted yet?
Bill
Originally posted by flapper
i have heard of a few now , main symptoms are car cold , get in start and drive , in a rush .
As flapper will know, I had this problem friday night. I had to pick the missus up who was 8 miles away and I had 10 minutes to get there. I'd been driving from cold for 5 minutes, got onto a dual carriageway and put my foot down in third. At 4500rpm the car stopped accelerating.
It felt like it was misfiring rather than not boosting. If I backed off and accelerated again it would go back to 4500 and stop.
I stopped, messaged flapper who suggested a restart and all was well. It hasn't done it since and hadn't done it before, I tested it saturday/sunday with no problems.
Cheers
Andy
Mine only seems to do it when I leave work. I pull out onto the road go to accelerate and it as though theres no boost. Lift off then accelerate again and it seems OK, possibly lifting a couple of times.
Wayne:confused:
Whelme, djawol,
Sounds exactly the same problem as mine.
I'm not trying to be rude, and I don't want to piss anyone off.... especially Amythest as they are very very helpful and friendly, BUT...
This is obviously not a one off problem and surely its someones responsability to find out what the problem is (Amythest? RSD?). I'm not necessarily saying that it should be fixed.... if the cause can be found and its something harmless then I can live with that. What worries me is the unknown! If we don't know what is causing this then we can't say with 100% confidence that its not causing any damage.
Also, why do some cars get it and other apparently identical cars not get it? (ie. Mine and Bills are identical, even the colour and suspension!).
I appreciate the difficulties in diagnosing the problem... its intermitant and the chances of getting it to happen when you connect it to a computer are probably quite low.
Heres a potential clue, or maybe a red herring... I think I only get the problem when I have some Super Unleaded in the tank... but not when I have just Optimax in the tank. Ie. I used Super for a while between 500-1000 miles on the clock and I had this problem quite a bit, I then switched to Optimax and I haven't been having the problem..... but then the other day I was v low on fuel and not near a shell so I had to put some Super in again... a day or 2 later the problem happened again (Only twice), now back on Optimax and no problems since!
Flapper, please don't take offense, I just want to be sure that I'm not doing the car any damage.
Thanks,
Ben
I have only ever used unleaded (95RON) up until this last tank when I have changed to Optimax.
I find the car has a little better responce now but everything else is the same, fuel economy probably worse, definitely no better. I believe the problem to be the air meter as if the ECU is not registering air flow it won't put the fuel in.
My Ibiza is a December 2000, I don't know if this is an early car fault or a general one.
Any other thoughts.
Wayne:confused: :confused:
As flapper knows i have exactly the same problem, i dont batter the throttle from cold, but i need to pull out of work sharpish cos of traffic etc and there is virtually no power whatsoever with my foot planted, change into 2nd and its the same till about 4500RPm when it kicks like a pissed off mule.
Goin in dealer soon for other probs so will be mentioned.
Altho i know they will say the ECU reports no faults.
???
Originally posted by BenS1
So
This is obviously not a one off problem and surely its someones responsability to find out what the problem is (Amythest? RSD?).
Heres a potential clue, or maybe a red herring... I think I only get the problem when I have some Super Unleaded in the tank... but not when I have just Optimax in the tank
Ben,
Mines a standard 20vt not 210 like yours. The only mod is the Forge DV.
It's only happened the once in almost 1 year of ownership, I cannot get it to do it again. My car is the same as Whelme's - Silver December 2000.
I'm into my 6/7th Optimax tank and ran it on Super before that so I don't think that's the cause.
I've tried on numerous occasions to get it to go again. As flapper mentioned, I was late and started the car without waiting at the first turn of the key for any length of time, in fact the lights had barely come on before the engine fired. I would normaly wait and haven't had it happen before.
I couldn't cause it again either.......
If it starts to do it regularly then I'll panic but at the moment it''s been a one off.
Sorry not to be of any help with your problem.
Ahhh, so it could have something to do with the initial diagnostics that occur when you first turn the key on.... I normally wait for all the lights to come on and then go off one by one and then start the engine, but it is possible that on the occasions that I have had problems I didn't bother and just turned the key and went on my way.... I'll play with this theory tonight.
Thanks
Ben
I dont have this problem. But are you saying that you should always wait for the light sequence to complete before starting? A bit like diesel?
it appears that it may be , BUT im in the process of loggin when how etc , basically , when you turn on the key the cars diagnostics run a FULL sweep , and we all know how long a pc takes to load , HELLO boss , can I have one for a few days and try it myself ???????
seems to be poppin up when cold ? or when rushing out ??
mmm could be summat similar to the diesel type start my be in order
tell you what , humour me for a bit , just watch all the lights etc before start up for a while and see if it still crops up , it is affecting cars of all stages of tune , majority being standard , i just want to see if by doing what i think ,it will be one less scenario off the list @ least
mail me direct , and try if you can to let it run through the start up , and if it goes again , just note the following
time from start up :
weather :
distance covered :
temp gauge reading :
did a stop / restart cure it ? :
affect to the car :
rev range affected :
gears affected :
+any other additional info :
with reference to the pedal synchronisation we had a few 1.4 models doing a similar thing , which brought on a fault light , summat to do with the speed too fast for the ecu , or vice versa
i'll check and see if the standard part has changed number , or has been made differently on newer models
may well be an idea for the turbo stutter problems ????
(we will get it in the end don't you worry)
ibizacupra
23-11-2001, 20:58
Stolen from VWVortex 1.8T forum...
Another input to the surging saga....
Bill
<snipped from VWVortex Forum>
From the horses' mouth to my ears.... here we go.... according to APR, the problem lies in my exhaust - and someone else on vortex explained this too!
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The boost control routines do not put the brakes on the wastegate soon enough which causes an initial overshoot, and then an undershoot. In some circumstances the car will be caught effectively in a loop of under and overshooting as the controller switches between two different control modes.
This problem is more apparent the higher the boost levels
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When APR releases their full turbo-back exhaust, which should be soon I hope, they will have software that will adjust for this, and solve the pulsating issues that are shown here. They feel this will work, and if I know them, it will. APR is a TOP NOTCH shop.. and they stand behind their product.
<end snip>
ALSO THERE IS THE FOLLOWING MENTION OF AN N75 VALVE.
<sniped from VWVortex again>
I've seen the diagrams and I (sort of) know what it does. I have the resistance specs for my car, so this is what I am wondering: Could I adjust this valve, staying within the specs, to tweek the wastegate to better match my 3" exhaust? I've noticed the up and down (actually, just up to 18-19 then down to 13) problem with my boost lately, and it's been 3 days and 250 miles since I installed the exhaust and swapped the GIAC back in.
<end snip>
Whats an N75 valve? What is this that sbeing adjusted?
Bill