Fitting Coilovers - Leon Cupra [Archive] - SEAT Cupra.net

DPJ

05-04-2008, 20:35

***Work in progress***
*****Instructions + Torque figures to be added*****

KW Variant 2 Coilovers

New VAG parts required (Recommended)
(Part numbers for Leon Cupra)
front
2 of 1J0412249 axial grooved ball bearing
2 of 1H0412365A threaded bush
2 of IJ0412331C suspension strut storage **(Check this is correct for your chassis)
2 of N90353604 Hex Nut
rear
2 of N10403701 Hex Nut
2 of IJ0512131C Rubber Stop **(Check this is correct for your chassis)
2 of 1J0512149B base upper

Tools required:
.............
.............
.............
White grease

Front

Removal of existing suspension struts.

Remove your brake discs and calipers. It is not necessary to disconnect the hydraulic brake lines.
Unbolt the three bolts that hold the bottom balljoint plate to the end of the wishbone arm. Pull the plate out of the wishbone end. This will give you more clearance.

Unbolt an anti-roll bar droplink from the car on one side only.

Unclip the wiring from the suspension struts.

Undo the clamp bolt at the rear of the wheel bearing housing that secures the suspension strut. Fit a wedge into the slot at the back to open the joint. (A large flat screwdriver or a small cold chisel is ideal). You should now be able to push the wheel bearing housing down off the bottom of the strut.

Moving to the top of the suspension strut, move the plastic cover, then using a hex (allen) bit to stop the piston rotating, undo the securing nut and remove the mounting plate.

You should now be able to remove the entire suspension strut.

Take a moment to admire your new coilovers and check everything is there.....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010073.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010074.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010075.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010076.jpg

Note the locking screw on the height adjuster. Undo this now.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010077.jpg

The KW front coilovers come with two height restrictors fitted to prevent anti-roll bars fouling the driveshafts. You can see these inside the top spring.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010078.jpg

To make it easier for yourself, lower the height adjusting ring as far as it will go. This will take the spring pressure off.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010079.jpg

Now, remove the locking nut that comes fitted to the top of the coilover.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010080.jpg

You can now remove one or both of the height restricting rubbers, depending on the configuration of rollbar you are running.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010081.jpg

Now, refit the top spring and the top purple mount.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010082.jpg

DPJ

05-04-2008, 20:37

You should have bought a new top bearing for each side. Note the curved face should face upwards.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010083.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010084.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010085.jpg

If you examine one of your new rubber topmounts, you will see that one side is curved to match the top face of the bearing.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010088.jpg

The following picture shows the bearing seated into the rubber topmount - This is how they'd look assembled from underneath.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010089.jpg

Plenty of white grease on the bearing and the rubber topmount.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010090.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010091.jpg

Ok, now you needed one of the threaded bushes you bought. You use this to bolt the rubber topmount to the coilover. One face of it sits on the top of the top bearing.

Bottom view of threaded bush....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010086.jpg
Top view of threaded bush....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010087.jpg

Threaded bush fitted.......

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010092.jpg

DPJ

05-04-2008, 20:41

Here, I'm cutting up a 14mm spark plug spanner (actually 21mm ) It's use will become obvious.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010093.jpg

Torque the bush up. (KW instructions say "Except as noted, all torque values must comply with manufacturers recommended specifications." I would guess the bush should be the same as the upper mounting bolt - 60Nm......)
Once it's tight, the rubber topmount will feel loose on the coilover - it's meant to be like that.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010094.jpg

Now tighten the height adjuster ring to approx half way. That's one coilover ready to put on the car. Now do the other one.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010095.jpg

Time to check over the bottom clamp mounting for the coilover. Check it's smooth inside, if not, give it a little TLC with some fine emery paper. For KW coilovers, you'll need to withdraw the clamp bolt past halfway because the coilover has a fin that fits down the slot at the back which the bolt goes through. Now pop some grease inside the clamp to help the coilover in. You shouldn't need a wedge in the clamp anymore - it should be open enough for the coilover to go in.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010096.jpg

Now offer the coilover up through the wheel arch so that the rubber topmount is pushing against the underside of the turret.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010097.jpg

Pop the mounting plate in from the top and bolt on a new nut.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010098.jpg

Torque the bolt up (Should be 60Nm ), being very careful not to damage the top of the coilover.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010099.jpg

Now introduce the bottom of the coilover to the wheel bearing housing (fin into slot at the back). You might find it useful to support the weight of the wheel bearing housing on a trolley jack, but don't use this to force the housing onto the coilover. It should push up relatively easily. When the coilover is fully home, you should be able to put the clamp bolt through.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010100.jpg

You should now fit the bottom balljoint plate back into the end of the wishbone. This needs a bit of patience and a lot of jiggling. Again - it doesn't need forcing.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010101.jpg

Now refit the nut to the clamp bolt and torque up - 60Nm, then a further 90 degrees.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010102.jpg

UncleFester

05-04-2008, 20:45

Nice picture guide Dave. Things look like they could do with a coat or two of rust inhibitor and some hammerite whilst you're under there though?

DPJ

05-04-2008, 20:50

Fit the ABS and brake pad sensor wiring to the coilover mountings.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010103.jpg

Get the Bottom balljoint retaining plate and refit it. Plate on top, bolts from beneath. I always push mine so the frontmost bolt is as far back as it will go before tightening. I then move the steering wheel so the rack pulls the back of the plate right in. Now torque all three bolts up - 20Nm, then a further 90 degrees.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010104.jpg

Refit your anti- roll bar droplink. 45Nm to the wishbone.
Note - if you have a standard arb, you may need aftermarket long droplinks to stop your arb fouling the driveshafts. (My adjustable Neuspeed links are shown).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010105.jpg

You should now tighten the locking screw on the height adjuster. (1-2NM max torque!)

You now need to refit your brake discs and calipers.

Ooooooo! Where did these come from?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010111.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010110.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010109.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010108.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010107.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010106.jpg

340mm discs.

DPJ

06-04-2008, 21:33

Had to drill out the disc screws - but retapping the holes is a doddle...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010112.jpg

Disc screw is N 10112603 countersunk bolt M6X15SP /

DPJ

06-04-2008, 21:39

Rears

You will find the rear is best done together, rather than one side at a time.

Start by removing the bottom mounting bolts from the shock absorbers (and uncoupling your rear ARB, if you have one)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010113.jpg

Once both bottom shock absorber mounting bolts are out, the rear arms will drop down sufficiently for you to remove the springs easily. Don't forget to remove the bottom spring seats too, if they don't come out with the springs.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010114.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010115.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010116.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010117.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010118.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010120.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010121.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010122.jpg

DPJ

06-04-2008, 21:43

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010123.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010124.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010125.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010126.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010127.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010128.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010129.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010130.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010131.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010132.jpg

DPJ

06-04-2008, 21:47

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010133.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010134.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010135.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010136.jpg

You nice red Neuspeed rear ARB will end up looking like this after three years......
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010138.jpg

You can see that it's possible to access the height adjuster from underneath the car.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010139.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010140.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010141.jpg

Very hand instant erecting gazebo...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010142.jpg

Now get your wheel alignment and camber checked.

DPJ

06-04-2008, 21:49

The rear ended up a bit too low!!!!!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010143.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/DPJ/Coilover%20Fitting/P1010144.jpg

It took me 40 minutes to raise it 3/4" at the back (no 'after' picture taken)

DPJ

06-04-2008, 21:58

Nice picture guide Dave. Things look like they could do with a coat or two of rust inhibitor and some hammerite whilst you're under there though?

Flash makes it look worse than it is Pat. I did treat the wishbones and subframe last year. I quite fancy getting another subframe and wishbones - them getting them sandblasted & powdercoated.

DPJ

07-04-2008, 09:11

UncleFester

07-04-2008, 09:56

Fronts are set 1/3 of the way soft>hard, rears 1/2 way soft>hard.

Initial impressions after 40 mile driving. Fronts feel spot on, but from the back feels very 'bouncy' which is disconcerting at speed. You need to remove the rear shockers to adjust them. :(

One of my rear arb droplinks doesnt look like it has a lot of life left, I need to find some more sharpish for when I adjust the rears.

I had to use some extra blocks of wood to get the rear of the car on the ramps to raise the height. When I came back off, I lost one and it has hastened the demise of the rear skirt which is good because it as the last of the original things that prevented me lowering the car. :)

Agreed entirely Dave - just out of interest have you tried putting a couple of sandbags in the boot to see what effect that has? I still think you want it a lot softer damped on the rear as you've less weight over the axle.

DPJ

07-04-2008, 10:08

Agreed entirely Dave - just out of interest have you tried putting a couple of sandbags in the boot to see what effect that has? I still think you want it a lot softer damped on the rear as you've less weight over the axle.

:think: I'll try it, in the interests of science...

stewbie55

07-04-2008, 10:49

I'll be interested how you get on after adjusting the rears Dave, though you may want to give it a few hundred miles to let everything settle down first, I reckon my springs softened (?) a bit over the first 1000 miles or so and it became less bouncy.

I have my rears on 1/2 setting and my fronts about 1/3 but towards the firm end, not the soft end. Haven't played with the rears though as it a bit of a PITA.

DPJ

07-04-2008, 10:54

stewbie55

07-04-2008, 13:12

Thanks for the input. :)
You don't find the rear disconcerting high speed in a straight line now?

No I dont find it disconcerting, though it can be a bit unforgiving on some of the bumpy dual carriageways around here, but it always feels well in control.
I reckon it deffo settles after a few 100 miles so it may well be worth experimenting after that.
Just thinking aloud do the rear shocks have to be removed completely to adjust them? IIRC its a question of turning the top half relative to the bottom that adjusts them (?). In that case I'm wondering if its possible to just unbolt the bottom mount (with the rear jacked up) and turn them in situ? I may be talking rubbish of course :rolleyes:

DPJ

07-04-2008, 13:18

No I dont find it disconcerting, though it can be a bit unforgiving on some of the bumpy dual carriageways around here, but it always feels well in control.
I reckon it deffo settles after a few 100 miles so it may well be worth experimenting after that.
Just thinking aloud do the rear shocks have to be removed completely to adjust them? IIRC its a question of turning the top half relative to the bottom that adjusts them (?). In that case I'm wondering if its possible to just unbolt the bottom mount (with the rear jacked up) and turn them in situ? I may be talking rubbish of course :rolleyes:

I'll give 'em 500 miles before I start fiddling. Unfortunately the piston on the shocker needs to be full compressed before it will engage the adjusting cams.

I don't think the beam would drop far enough to allow the top mount to be undone and accessed - certainly not with an arb attached.

jamiebennett81

07-04-2008, 14:10

Dave did you adjust the height of the coil overs when you put them on, or did you leave them as the manufacturer had sent them out in?

when I had my V1's fitted, the rear sat lower than the front straight away

I left it to settle for about 100 miles or so and then slammed the front - sits perfectly now

interesting you mention about the rear being bouncy. I have front and rear ARB's on mine as well, but the back does feel twitchy, and can now almost lift off into oversteer or the back feels like it wants to snap out after heavy breaking?

does yours feel like this at all?

Feel

07-04-2008, 14:21

I think everyone that finds this thread useful should chip in and buy Dave a shiney new spanner...

DPJ

07-04-2008, 14:26

I think everyone that finds this thread useful should chip in and buy Dave a shiney new spanner...

:D If you look closely, you'll see it's AF, not metric. I couldn't buy a metric spanner off the shelf with a deep enough crank.

Phil, I tried to measure the capacity of the old rear springs. ;) I gave up at 27 litres......

DPJ

07-04-2008, 14:31

Dave did you adjust the height of the coil overs when you put them on, or did you leave them as the manufacturer had sent them out in?

......
interesting you mention about the rear being bouncy. I have front and rear ARB's on mine as well, but the back does feel twitchy, and can now almost lift off into oversteer or the back feels like it wants to snap out after heavy breaking?

does yours feel like this at all?

I adjusted them, took a guess at what would be a good starting point (and as far as the rear went, I was miles off.

No, mines not twitchy at all. Just bouncy at the rear at speed in a straight line.

DPJ

24-04-2008, 16:39

updated post 1 with part numbers.

stewbie55

05-05-2008, 00:54

Hi Dave,

Just to let you know after slaving under my car for a "couple" of hours today (damn Eibach ARB [:@]) I managed to get both my back shocks off and adjust the damping.

I had been thinking that my rears still felt a little bouncy, but after finding that setting my fronts to about 70% improved things I've now done the same to the rears. First impressions are positive but I'll give it another run tomorrow on some more difficult roads - if not I'll have to get under the car again soon :headhurt:. I've got a track day in a couple of weeks and want to get it spot on before that.

Anyway I'll keep you posted....

Neil_Ireland

05-05-2008, 19:22

Hi Dave,

I had been thinking that my rears still felt a little bouncy, but after finding that setting my fronts to about 70% improved things I've now done the same to the rears. First impressions are positive but I'll give it another run tomorrow on some more difficult roads - if not I'll have to get under the car again soon :headhurt:. I've got a track day in a couple of weeks and want to get it spot on before that.

Anyway I'll keep you posted....

Are they Kw v3's you have fitted? I just fitted a set of v3's the other day and the back is very bouncy also.

I haven't had a chance to adjust the rebound on the rear yet but I adjusted the compression (softer) and it has improved things slightly.

Neil.

DPJ

05-05-2008, 19:28

I adjusted the rears on my V2s to 135 degrees off the hardest setting and it has improved things. Getting used to it now. :D

Neil_Ireland

05-05-2008, 19:31

I adjusted the rears on my V2s to 135 degrees off the hardest setting and it has improved things. Getting used to it now. :D

I adjusted the compression on mine and it has improved things a lot, may do the rebound tomorrow if I get time.

Your guide was a real help while fitting mine, cheers Dave!

Neil.

DPJ

05-05-2008, 20:28

I...............
Your guide was a real help while fitting mine, cheers Dave!.........
.

Good to hear it. :) I really must go through this and pop the torque figures in etc.

stewbie55

05-05-2008, 21:32

Are they Kw v3's you have fitted? I just fitted a set of v3's the other day and the back is very bouncy also.

I haven't had a chance to adjust the rebound on the rear yet but I adjusted the compression (softer) and it has improved things slightly.

Neil.

No mine are V2's like dave's. I did wonder if a softer compression setting would help in combination with a firmer rebound?

stewbie55

05-05-2008, 21:38

I adjusted the rears on my V2s to 135 degrees off the hardest setting and it has improved things. Getting used to it now. :D

That's interesting, that's still a fair bit firmer than mine. I must admit when I did the adjustment I reckon they were at more than 50% to start with so reckon I only stiffenend them slightly more in the end. A more extended drive today did show a slight improvment but I couldn't help thinking they could do with a bit more still. Well now I've got the method sussed I may have another go next weekend.

G2232

02-09-2008, 08:54

Now this is partially a stupid question cos i know the answer but just want opinions

I fitted my coilovers at weekend but the clamp at the top is standing proud of the turret meaning the strut is able to rattle around now im pretty sure that is wrong!
I can see that the clamp is hard down on the top mount bush though so im confused.
Now i dont have a torque rench so not able to check the 60NM
but if torqued up right should the pull them back together?

DPJ

02-09-2008, 09:08

That's normal. If the top nut is tightened correctly and it's a new top mount, the top mount is being pulled up hard against the underside of the mounting. - You will see a gap.

G2232

02-09-2008, 09:24

That's normal. If the top nut is tightened correctly and it's a new top mount, the top mount is being pulled up hard against the underside of the mounting. - You will see a gap.

Yeah they are new top mounts
A gap big enough to get your finger through?
The only reason i ask is cos i have a clunk noise which thought could be that
as with the gap the strut would be able to twist and lean meaning the clamb would bang against the turret :confused::shrug:

DPJ

02-09-2008, 09:30

Yeah they are new top mounts
A gap big enough to get your finger through?
The only reason i ask is cos i have a clunk noise which thought could be that
as with the gap the strut would be able to twist and lean meaning the clamb would bang against the turret :confused::shrug:

No, there shouldn't be a gap that big.

G2232

02-09-2008, 09:34

No, there shouldn't be a gap that big.

well thats what i thought
i mean it is prob only big enought to get your little finger down but
still it seems big enough might to take to a garge and get them to check its torqued up enough see if that improves it

i'll try take a picture an post so you can see

DPJ

02-09-2008, 09:51

i'll try take a picture an post so you can see

Yes, do that.

Nutkin

02-09-2008, 10:41

the springs do settle causing the nuts to rise up , i found this on mine.. but all i get now is the car creaks when i turn full lock.

G2232

02-09-2008, 14:09

photo of the culpret

http://widget.slide.com/rdr/1/1/4/S/400000020aaa304/1/0/cJVU62jIsj_OSz3VTrE7PjXV6YtRPWLx.jpg (http://widget.slide.com/rdr/1/1/3/W/400000020aaa304/1/0/cskzfqb82T_6_eudLsQ8EatEoC1vihKA.jpg)

DPJ

02-09-2008, 14:19

I'd have to look at mine to check.

G2232

02-09-2008, 14:29

also Dave i dont know if you know but should i need the drop links for the ARB like you have there for the LCR?

DPJ

02-09-2008, 14:33

also Dave i dont know if you know but should i need the drop links for the ARB like you have there for the LCR?

Doesn't your ARB mount to the coilover?

G2232

02-09-2008, 14:36

yeah it does thats what i dont understand i got the drop links in the box so have asked them and they say i need them but i dont know how i am supposed to mount them cos they cant replace the OE ones :shrug:

DPJ

02-09-2008, 14:42

What make of ARB?

G2232

02-09-2008, 14:43

neuspeed 25mm

adam cupra 20vt

22-04-2009, 14:58

Are those part numbers in the first post for the normal cupra or the cupra r?

Nice guide DPJ hoping its going to help me out soon :)

Faisal

15-11-2009, 14:02

nice guide!will be following this when its my turn :D

Indy

02-03-2010, 12:04

Hi DJP, Nice thread with lots of useful tips :thumbup: thanks.

I recently bought a KW V3 kit and will be installing that using solid aluminium top mounts on my LCR.
Could any one please help with some information on what rebound and damping settings would be appropriate. My Cars stripped out at the back and to some degree lightened at the front.
Its main purpose is track days and will occasionally be used in town. I would really appreciate any useful settings and tips, thanks.

Willie

02-03-2010, 12:21

Indy, I have the same set up as you with a stripped out car.
I used the KW recommended settings for a start. These have proved fine so far but rigerous testing will be done this year.
Let me know if your struggling to find the KW recommended settings

Indy

02-03-2010, 12:29

Willie

02-03-2010, 12:33

Thanks Willie, I've been waiting for some good weather to change my suspension and it seems so far its going to be a warm weekend (fingers crossed).
If your using factory settings and it works than I'll give it a go and see if that works for me.
If nothing else it's a good starting place.
With the car lowered 25mm its proving impossible to unsettle it just now.
Do you still have your LC wishbones and hubs or have you changed these out?

Indy

02-03-2010, 12:37

If nothing else it's a good starting place.
With the car lowered 25mm its proving impossible to unsettle it just now.
Do you still have your LC wishbones and hubs or have you changed these out?

When we put together the engine I changed the LC Wishbones to VW racing wishbones but am still using the standard hubs. Any advise on Hubs??

Willie

02-03-2010, 12:39

Well the position of the ball joint fixing is about 1" or so higher than the one on the TT/LCR hubs.
This allows you to have more drop without effecting the wish bone angle.
Not too sure how this would effect yours as I'm not aquainted with the VW racing wish bones

Indy

02-03-2010, 12:50

That’s true and I've notice that, cars currently dropped pretty low (more than 25mm) and also running negative 1.5 camber on the front but despite that I get understeer.... Currently running FK Silverline suspension and I'm hoping with this change I will be able to play with the setup and get it right.

P.S also got the vibra-technics mounts and fluidampr now....

DPJ

02-03-2010, 12:57

VW racing wishbones

New one on me.......

Photos / link please?

Indy

02-03-2010, 13:02

New one on me.......

Photos / link please?

Will take some snaps when I strip the suspension.

Indy

02-03-2010, 13:03

P.s forgot to add they are not very different from the solid LCR or TT wishbones.

JamJay

15-03-2010, 10:56

Thanks for making this guide Dave, very useful for the top mounts especially. It looks really hard to guage the correct height for both the front and rear straight away, is there a trick to getting it nice and level from the start? If not, is adjusting the height as simple as jacking it up and tightening the nuts with a C-spanner?

Willie

15-03-2010, 11:41

Jamjay, on mine dropped 25mm I can jack the car up and adjust these by hand.

What I did was set the same height all around, went for a quick drive around my neighbourhood measured and re adjusted.

Mine adjust the height 1mm per turn of the adjuster.

Also remember as the OEM ride height is set at 7mm higher baised to the drivers side you will end up with different amounts of adjustments on either side.
Also account for you driving with your adjustments.

All I did was measure from the centre of the hub/alloy to the inner wheel arch (on level ground) all the way around and decided I wanted 20mm drop and went for this.

Ended up with 25mm with me in the car and stuck with that.

JamJay

15-03-2010, 12:04

Thanks Willie. How easy is it to adjust the height, a quick 10min job? If I fit the coilovers how they were sent from the factory, I am sure it'll all be wrong with either the back or front too low and requiring adjustment.

I'll be going for the Weitec fixed damping kit based on an outing in a forum members car a few weeks back, I felt that the damping of the shocks was just right. So that's one less issue to deal with however, it's the back adjustment that really confuses me as it's not connected to the shock absorber like it is on the front. My old car had independant rear suspension so it was quite easy to match the rear to the front.

Willie

15-03-2010, 12:28

The back height is adjusted being an adjustable spring seat. Up for more ride height, down for less ride height.
Yup, quick and easy job with the car jacked up.
Clean the wire brush the adjusters, adjust down first, quick clean and wire brush then go for what height you want

JamJay

15-03-2010, 12:49

That's strange, I thought adjusting the seat upwards would compress the spring more and cause the car to be lower? Adjusting downwards would surely put less pressure on the spring and make it higher? Inless I am wrong and by making the spring less compressed, the car's weight lowers it more?

George 3G

14-06-2010, 21:41

Excellent guide Dave!

Any idea how I can work out the Cupra R part numbers for the following items?

2 of 1J0412249 axial grooved ball bearing
2 of 1H0412365A threaded bush
2 of IJ0412331C suspension strut storage **(Check this is correct for your chassis)
2 of N90353604 Hex Nut
rear
2 of N10403701 Hex Nut
2 of IJ0512131C Rubber Stop **(Check this is correct for your chassis)
2 of 1J0512149B base upper

Thanks

George

Indy

15-06-2010, 00:14

These should be the same for the Leon Cupra R.

Willie

15-06-2010, 06:25

Captain Cupra

15-06-2010, 06:57

DPJ how come you disconnected the hub carrier from the suspension arms, it shows you reconnecting but you dont explain th ereason for this ive just never done it in the past the only reason i can think of is to make more space for inserting the strut into the strut housing???

DPJ

15-06-2010, 07:56

Just speak to David at seremotors, he'll sort you out with the correct pieces

The part number for the LCR topmount would be useful in the thread.........

(I think it's the same as above.)

DPJ how come you disconnected the hub carrier from the suspension arms, it shows you reconnecting but you dont explain th ereason for this ive just never done it in the past the only reason i can think of is to make more space for inserting the strut into the strut housing???

The hub carrier won't go downwards far enough to get the strut out when the wishbone is connected.

Bakes100

13-07-2010, 12:19

The hub carrier won't go downwards far enough to get the strut out when the wishbone is connected.

Ive read in other guides that the driveshaft also fouls on the subframe when removing the driver-side strut from the hub, did you have this issue DPJ? if so how did you overcome it :)

Thanks

DPJ

13-07-2010, 12:38

Ive read in other guides that the driveshaft also fouls on the subframe when removing the driver-side strut from the hub, did you have this issue DPJ? if so how did you overcome it :)

Thanks

No I didn't have this problem.

Willie

13-07-2010, 13:18

Bakes100

13-07-2010, 13:31

How did you overcome this Willie?

Willie

13-07-2010, 13:41

I ended up using the 'widow maker' OEM jack between the hub top and strutt upset and jacking these apart.

If I did it again I''d drop the subframe down a bit as its no biggie

wayne lcr

13-07-2010, 14:00

thought if you drop the subframe it as to be relined again dont you?

james walker

13-07-2010, 14:03

nah, drop it leaving wishbones attatched, screw bolts out and hold it on them.

wayne lcr

13-07-2010, 14:06

are right ok then so it wont stress the ball joints then?

james walker

13-07-2010, 14:09

support the frame with a block of wood and trolley jack

Willie

13-07-2010, 16:27

are right ok then so it wont stress the ball joints then?
The ball joints take a huge amount of strain anyway in their daily life

litcan91

12-08-2010, 21:55

hey guys fitted an eibach pro kit (just springs) on my leon 1.6 sx the other day, 30mm front 25mm back, really impressed with the ride quality, however the car now pulls to the left when the steering wheel is straigh, tryed putting it on an alighnment mechine at a firends friends garage, and the front was dead straight, whilest the back was not as its suppose to be, what do i do now? could it be wrongly fitted springs? shall i pop them off and refit ? maybe we have placed them somehow wrong on a fast hand? anyone had this problem before, any suggestions? Alex

sambryant

12-08-2010, 22:00

sounds to me like you need 4 wheel alighnment and not just the fronts, i had the same when i lowered my car

litcan91

12-08-2010, 22:01

i thought it wasnt possible to allrign the rears?

sambryant

12-08-2010, 22:04

o yes you can :)

litcan91

12-08-2010, 22:07

Ah, that calmed me down a little, got really worried now had been told by the friends friend that it could be the axle which is bent, coz aparently u cannot allign the backs, but the funny thing was, it only happened after we have lowered the car! so it is impossible for the axle to be bent, where did you have it done mate? and what kind of price will i be looking at? do you have any kind of clue how its done too?

Indy

13-08-2010, 10:28

I would suggest you drive the car for a few days let the suspension bed in and then go and get an allignment done. If your car is a front wheel drive with a beam at the back (leon 1.6 sx) then I dont think you will have any adjustment at the back. Let the suspension bed in and then go for an allignment and see if that makes any difference.

Another thing check the bushes at the back if your beam bushes are knackered than that too can affect your driving.

litcan91

13-08-2010, 11:11

Indy

13-08-2010, 11:29

Around 2 -3 weeks of daily driving but not too harsh....

Do make sure to check your rear beam bushes. When I first changed my suspension afew years ago I had the same problem. The wheel allignment guys said its due to the slant in the road and that is normal which was utter bollocks. After a few days of head banging we decided to check all the bushes and the back bean bushes were knackered.

litcan91

13-08-2010, 12:34

How do I tell if they are worn? they looked fine to me the last time i had a look at them, do you know roughly to how much it would be replacing them though thats ( if it is the bushes ) otherwise i am planning on taking the rear springs off, and refitting them, if same problem occurs, try my standard suspension on and see how it is, because, none of this was happening before the new one was fitted, we fitted the springs this wednsday, and i have noticed the steering next day, maybe didnt notice when we have just done from exitment lol, so i hope it is to do with the way that we have fitted the springs, maybe refitting them will resolve the problem, i might have a go at this next week, if it goes nowhere from there, i will have to go and get it checked elsewhere, Thanks for all the info !

George 3G

19-09-2010, 13:10

Dave, if the top mount nut on the front needs tightening and torquing, can this be done as the car is stood, or does the compression need to be taken off the spring?

Thanks

james walker

19-09-2010, 13:36

if its the top nut in the strut housing then its fine on the car, but if its the nut for holding the spring compression, then best done off car.

tbh, torque levels on these, if fin tight thats fine.

George 3G

19-09-2010, 14:06

It's the nut that is visable from the engine bay

james walker

19-09-2010, 21:12

It's the nut that is visable from the engine bay

Can be done in situe then.

Dani_b19

13-02-2011, 16:25

I can i just ask a question, you'll have to bear with me if it doesnt make sense but i'll try to expalin best i can lol.

When you've dismanteled the front coilover to take the 2 rubber stops out, you re-assemble the coilover and out the purple top cap on, do you need to use the original nut provided to secure the purple top cover down or do you just use the threaded bush that fastenes the top mount to secure it all?

Also do you tighten the entire setup (top mount, threaded bush etc) all the way down to the bottom of the thread on the coilover?

Does that make sense?

Dan.

Trublu07

15-03-2011, 16:07

When fitted and adjusting the fronts to make it lower do you turn the spanner towered the back wheel or the bonnet?

dholdi

15-03-2011, 20:35

Depends which side you are doing ;)
To lower you need to lower the spring seat so thats clockwise.
Towards the boot on the drivers side and towards the bonnet on the passenger side.

Trublu07

26-03-2011, 15:16

I have adjusted mine today as there was a larger gap passenger side to driverside. I counted 16 protruding notches from the bottom on both sides and reduced them both to 8 notches. I still have a larger gap on the passengerside front compared to driverside though. All of the gaps including rears are even apart from front driverside. I know that is the wheel under the engine weight and as the notches were already even I reduced them both equally. Does this sound ok or should I have left more notches driverside to compensate for the weight ( even though AMD left them even to start with. Thoughts please.