View Full Version : Cupra 2.0 16v acceleration
Hi everyone
First I wanna ask who else in this orum has this car ?
I really have lots of questions :D
2. what is the best 0-62 mph time for my car ? (8.3 for standart)
3. I have seen dyno figures about my car
standard 110 kw 90 km on the road
full exhaust 128 kw 100 kw on the road
What do you think about this 110kw/90 kw ratio ?
That means I have only 123 bhp on the for for may standard 150 bhp Cupra :mad:
One of my friend with Golf GTI MEasured 156 bhp 136 bhp on the road
4. Which mods do you recommend me ?
I really wanna talk to other owners of this car
Thanks for all replies
I've got the cordoba version with the 2.0 16v engine, i've had the head gas flowed and cams fitted. This gave a mad rush of power over 5k revs, but at the expense of a lot of low down torque - plus i've found out it will need a lot more tweaking to get it running spot on. I also modded the air box (see cupranet main site, which made it rev a lot more freely and fitted a sports backbox which seems to make it a bit more responsive, haven't got round to fitting the centre section yet, but on my old 8v toledo it made a vast difference to the revability. I had it rolling roaded a week or so ago and it came out at 145bhp at the wheels, so it has picked up a lot of power, however its notquite as nice to drive as it used to be, its very frantic with on/off power delivery. Whatever you decide to do on the 16v it seems to cost so make sure you can get a test in a similar car first or ask around how worthwhile the mods are before you shell out the cash.
ibizacupra
10-12-2001, 10:51
Originally posted by ScottyP
I've got the cordoba version with the 2.0 16v engine, i've had the head gas flowed and cams fitted. This gave a mad rush of power over 5k revs, but at the expense of a lot of low down torque - plus i've found out it will need a lot more tweaking to get it running spot on. I also modded the air box (see cupranet main site, which made it rev a lot more freely and fitted a sports backbox which seems to make it a bit more responsive, haven't got round to fitting the centre section yet, but on my old 8v toledo it made a vast difference to the revability. I had it rolling roaded a week or so ago and it came out at 145bhp at the wheels, so it has picked up a lot of power, however its notquite as nice to drive as it used to be, its very frantic with on/off power delivery. Whatever you decide to do on the 16v it seems to cost so make sure you can get a test in a similar car first or ask around how worthwhile the mods are before you shell out the cash.
What cams have you got fitted in your motor?
Rush of power >5000rpm sounds like an aggressive cam profile.
Bill
i'm pretty sure they are split duration 270,272 shrick cams.
I haven't had it chipped yet, if that would make any difference to the power delivery?
I think, chip may make the situation better, because old chip was made specially for the old engines diagrams. New chip must raise the torque in middle range (3-4 k). I also was going to make the same with my cupra and very interested in the result of it.
Did you take cams from Shrik (Germany) or from autotech?
And to Cupra2 - the second way of mod is turbo, but it is much more expensive. Look here for ex - http://www.hgp-turbo.de/ or http://www.eiptuning.com/.
they are schrick cams, I'm trying to decide at the moment whether to get the engine set up with pulleys or chipped - and i'm swaying towards the chip.
Ok, i'm waiting for results ;).
Sorry for my question (probably because of my english - i'm from Russia) what is it - engine set up with pulleys. Is it increasing of volume?
that's okay, your english is better than mine!
By setting up with pulleys I mean adding Vernier pulleys to the cams and belts. They allow accurate set ups for the engine timing and fuelling (within the limits of the chip I presume?) and should steady the very rough idle.
cordobabrendy
10-12-2001, 18:43
I have a 2.0 16v cordy als, have yet to get mine dyno'd but am going to get my engine chipped last, by then i will have added a new manifold, centre section and possibly gas flowing. chipping your car first will mean that either you will have to get a reprogrammable chip or get a new one with every new engine mod (expensive) as each mod will not have its optimum output unless the chip knows about it and optimizes it.
Oh, yep! I catch it (i mean pulleys). It let to tune up phases of a valve timing. I thought it must be with cams. But some cams let make tuning with a common pulleys. So it depends on what kind of cams you've got. Probably, new pulley can change nothing with your cams. It's better to ask shrick cam's dealer.
ibizacupra
11-12-2001, 08:22
Originally posted by ScottyP
i'm pretty sure they are split duration 270,272 shrick cams.
I haven't had it chipped yet, if that would make any difference to the power delivery?
http://www.badger5.demon.co.uk/bin/schrick-2.jpg Here is the Schrick catalogue page with the 16v cams available.
No 270 or 272 cams....
You sure you have'nt got 276 or 284's? for that kind of power delivery?
I ran 300' crane cams a year ago as an experiment, and after a lot of mapping I managed to get them to idle at 800rpm and pass emissions test etc... Their power delivery was nasty, with next to nothing to 5000rpm, then BANG a huge rush of power up to my rev limited 7500rpm. It wanted to rev more, but it still runs hydraulic followers and they don't like excessive revs.
You will for sure need to adjust fueling and ignition to allow the engine to perform properly. Chip or programmable ECU.
A vernier pulley will be expecially usefull if you have skimmed the head, as the deck height will be slightly different to stock, and cam timing may be a tad out.
Who supplied and fitted your cams?
regards
Bill
RPM did all the work, (and very good it was too! - recommend them to anyone in the south west, quick plug :D ) The power delivery is as you have said, limp to 5k and then bang. I've had the head flowed/skimmed as well so I've decided to get the top cam pulley to solve that prob. I'm sure that was the duration of my cams, do shrick do a reprofiling service?
cordobabrendy
11-12-2001, 13:18
scotty, what is your 4th and 5th gear acceleration like?? must feel a bit wierd? hehe also 1 st gear must be mad, nothing then wheelspin city!!:cheers:
fifth gear is useful for nothing, except keeping the exhaust quiet on the motorway, 4th is essential for the drop down acceleration feel that you don't get in third.
1st aint too bad, the 'traction control' system works pretty well - if you can hold the car straight!:D
ibizacupra
11-12-2001, 17:31
Originally posted by ScottyP
RPM did all the work, (and very good it was too! - recommend them to anyone in the south west, quick plug :D ) The power delivery is as you have said, limp to 5k and then bang. I've had the head flowed/skimmed as well so I've decided to get the top cam pulley to solve that prob. I'm sure that was the duration of my cams, do shrick do a reprofiling service?
Find out what cams are installed first... You will need to know this really to time the cams in... Only the exhaust cam is belt driven, although internal sprocket gear adjusters are available to individually time the inlet/exhaust cam - available frmo schrick at a price.
I run split duration 260/270 exhaust cam and have no rush of power, but good mid torque and good top end bhp. Nice on the road. Chances are its a combination of fuel/ignition settings and cam timing being a bit retarded.
you could make the most of it by going fully mappable...:D
regards
Bill
Originally posted by cordobabrendy
scotty, what is your 4th and 5th gear acceleration like?? must feel a bit wierd? hehe also 1 st gear must be mad, nothing then wheelspin city!!:cheers:
Brendy, that's exactly what I'm finding with my first gear. I pull away, get up to about 25-30 and then it starts spinning. Does a similar thing in second sometimes too, in these slippery conditions we're having.
Scott, I'm sure i remember one of your cams being 268.
Bill, a friend warned me when I got the car about holding it on the rev limiter (not that i do or would anyway). He said that the hydraulic followers can "overpump" at too high revs, holding the valves open too long or too far, and the piston will come up and hit it. Is this what you meant when you said 16v engines don't like excessive revs, and if not, is that true?
maybe you're right neil, I am getting old and confused don't you know!
Surely that makes it worse if they are as lumpy as your's but not as aggressive a profile?
Anyhoo its going back to RPM for its rechip on the 27th so i'll sort it out then. See you on the rollers, this time your victory will not be so easy my friend....
:D :devil:
Originally posted by ScottyP
See you on the rollers, this time your victory will not be so easy my friend....
:D :devil:
It may not be easy, but it shall still be mine:D (maybe)
ibizacupra
19-12-2001, 17:07
Originally posted by neilp
Bill, a friend warned me when I got the car about holding it on the rev limiter (not that i do or would anyway). He said that the hydraulic followers can "overpump" at too high revs, holding the valves open too long or too far, and the piston will come up and hit it. Is this what you meant when you said 16v engines don't like excessive revs, and if not, is that true?
Yep. That's what can happen. They pump up, and or froth the oil so going very clattery for a while.
For sustained high rpm the engine would benefit form a solid lifter conversion (not cheap and can be noisier) - Race spec engine really.
They are pretty durable though. My Jetta 16v has seen loads of revs on track days and runs fine. It comes in after a track bashing sounding top end rattly, but when its all cooled down everything is fine.
regards
Bill
cordobabrendy
21-12-2001, 19:20
is this true for all of the vag 2.0 16v engines??
ibizacupra
21-12-2001, 19:54
Originally posted by cordobabrendy
is this true for all of the vag 2.0 16v engines??
Yes they can go rattly when hot, but I have NEVER heard of valve contact through this.
They are very durable and I give you this example.
I over revved my 2.0 16v Jetta motor a couple of months back at Mallory Park when my gear linkage came partly adrift. It went from my 7500rev limiter in 4th gear into 3rd gear . WHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA went the engine for a wee while until I dipped the clutch and scrabbled for gears... This revved the engine to over 9200rpm.
It still ran and completed that and a few other sessions on the day. Now I am not saying I have'nt done some damage as I think I have ( :( )but the hydraulic follwers are fine.
they're pretty durable things....
What might have saved me from major piston breaking damage is the blueprinted build spec of my engine. It runs ARP and RACETECH fastenings, pocketed pistons, and CRANE RACE valve springs. I think a stock built engine might have gone BANG! when I got 3rd gear and >9200rpm......
regards
Bill
cordobabrendy
21-12-2001, 20:26
hehe 9200 rpm, christ on a bike, thinking of going to the isle of man tt this year with revs like that!!hehehe just need to saw two wheels off!!
But how did it reach 9,200 rpm when the limiter cuts in at 7,500rpm???.....bit dim I am :D
ibizacupra
31-12-2001, 11:29
Originally posted by Stevie
But how did it reach 9,200 rpm when the limiter cuts in at 7,500rpm???.....bit dim I am :D
Its called in technical terms a F##K up!
My gear linkage popped off allowing the gear lever to go into 5th whereas the actual selector engaged 3rd. I was at the 7500rpm rev limiter in 4th at the time...hence the screeeeeeeeem from the engine as 3rd revved it to over 9200rpm.
It is'nt running as it should now.. :(
another bloody rebuild !!!!
Goes OK, but rattles from the top end (possible damaged hydraulic follower(s) )
Smoking now also... 2 stroke smoking....
Not a Happy Chappy.
Bill
cordobabrendy
08-01-2002, 23:27
Originally posted by ibizacupra
another bloody rebuild !!!!
Goes OK, but rattles from the top end (possible damaged hydraulic follower(s) )
Smoking now also... 2 stroke smoking....
Not a Happy Chappy.
Bill
if anyone asks, bill, solid lifters, they wont know the diff!! hehehe:cheers: