View Full Version : HELP ! Cordy camber settings and toe-in for coilover suspension
Lucky_32
07-06-2003, 20:48
Just got some new FK coilover suspension (Koni Dampers) fitted to the Cordy.
The Camber looks like it's set at zero (not good) - It used to be negative on the old suspension.
All it want's to do is go straight ahead.
Fiesta populars can have me on the corners.... :(
Anyone know whats the setting should be for 17's?
Camber and toe in?
Drop should not be much more than 35mm
I've had to raise it 15mm to stop the wing metal taking huge chunks out of the front tyres.
I've got bits of melted rubber stuck down the side of the car...
Any help really appreciated - would like to give the garage the settings on Monday when I take it back and jump up and down.
Not Happy. :mad:
need this info too ,as i'm getting some suspension next week.:D
Dudes, I think the settings are laid out in Haynes. I'll check and whack em up if you need me to (if they are actually in it).
Lucky_32
07-06-2003, 22:42
Cheers mate - it would be a good starter - when I had my old suspension set up by Micheldever tyres I think they tweaked the settings up front.
I think mines -1deg camber & 2.5 toe in. top sticks out more than the bottom.
not 100% on the toe, but then again it's all just 'normal' FWD settings
dead ahead will not see you cornering at your best!
Lucky_32
08-06-2003, 11:02
Anyone else got any setting they wish to share?
Bill? Whats the Yellow Peril running up front?
Front wheel alignment:
Camber angle; Sport models: -30' +/- 20'
Max diff in camber angles between sides: 30'
Castor angle (not adjustable); Sport models: 1°32' +/- 30'
Max diff in castor angles: 30'
Toe: O° +/- 10'
Rear wheel alignment:
Camber (not adjustable); Sport models: -1° 30' +/- 30'
Max diff in camber angles between sides: 30'
Toe: 20' +/- 10' toe-in.
Lucky_32
08-06-2003, 12:20
Cheers mate.
I'd lent out my Haynes manual....
Must remember to get it back.
Originally posted by edc
Front wheel alignment:
Camber angle; Sport models: -30' +/- 20'
Max diff in camber angles between sides: 30'
Castor angle (not adjustable); Sport models: 1°32' +/- 30'
Max diff in castor angles: 30'
Toe: O° +/- 10'
Rear wheel alignment:
Camber (not adjustable); Sport models: -1° 30' +/- 30'
Max diff in camber angles between sides: 30'
Toe: 20' +/- 10' toe-in.
think i need to find out what that all means beore i do mine :confused:
Lucky_32
08-06-2003, 23:39
Degrees ° and minutes '
Now where's my protractor...
ibizacupra
09-06-2003, 11:02
Originally posted by Lucky_32
Anyone else got any setting they wish to share?
Bill? Whats the Yellow Peril running up front?
Mines running -ve 1.5 degrees front camber and 30seconds toe in.
regards
Bill
Lucky_32
09-06-2003, 19:36
Cheers Bill,
How'd you manage that - thought they could only go to 1 degree? -ve camber?
Will get them to have a go tomorrow.
Some arch grinding required first (ouch).
ibizacupra
09-06-2003, 21:02
Originally posted by Lucky_32
Cheers Bill,
How'd you manage that - thought they could only go to 1 degree? -ve camber?
Will get them to have a go tomorrow.
Some arch grinding required first (ouch).
2 degrees is what mine can run fully -ve.
regards
bill
Lucky_32
09-06-2003, 21:42
Cheers again Bill.
cordobabrendy
09-06-2003, 22:28
chris, get your car onto a hunter machine, most good tyre places use them (excepting ats, kwik shit etc as they do it manually)
hunter machine gives you printouts at end showing what works best for your car instead of bog setup numbers from haynes, why use them when the new susp setup changes height etc anyway!
kwik fit tried to use standard numbers for my car on eibachs, they didnt seem to realise that the car sits lower than standard so the original settings are not applicable.:hammer:
Lucky_32
10-06-2003, 19:03
Cheers Brend.
Looks like the Brockbank settings may work - will find out tomorrow.
I will mention the hunter machine to the guys at Eurotech.
They are busy grinding arches at the moment.
Camber camber camber camber Camber Camelion
Red Gold and Green..... :redface:
Surely if the height is lower this does not mean that previous camber and toe are not useable again?! Sure if you lower the car then the original toe and camber will be altered. You don't have to use different settings if the car is lowered although you might want to if you want even sharper handling or turn-in.
Lucky_32
10-06-2003, 20:06
They didn't measure the previous toe-in and camber :hammer: Ride height is actually a bit higher at the moment (it was a 60mm drop).
Wishbone bushes and Top mounts have been uprated.
I drove it with the settings they had on it - big understeer....
Originally posted by Lucky_32
They didn't measure the previous toe-in and camber :hammer: Ride height is actually a bit higher at the moment (it was a 60mm drop).
Wishbone bushes and Top mounts have been uprated.
I drove it with the settings they had on it - big understeer....
You mean you haven't had the geometry changed yet and are getting understeer. Not that surprising. Can't go back to the previous set-up cos you don't know what it was. What about dial in the book figures, roadtest, then change again?
Lucky_32
10-06-2003, 20:33
No they changed the geometry after the new suspension went on and I got understeer (It looked like it had less camber).
They have tried the book figures -no good I think more camber and less toe-in as per Bill's set up may work and is probably close to what I had originally. :head:
hopkinsgm
10-06-2003, 23:37
Just a point - and I know it's been made before, but it's one of those that can trip the unwary up - and foxed me for a bit whilst playing Westfield suspension the other week.
The settings quoted from Haynes above are in degrees and minutes. 60 minutes makes a degree, so 30 minutes is 0.5 degrees.
"Book" figures are a good starting point, but there's no harm in tweaking things to suit yourself a bit, so long as you appreciate what you're playing with. More -ve camber at the front will tend to give sharper turn in, but make the car feel nervous in a straight line. And will wear the inside edges of your tyres quicker. A little toe out is quite common for fwd cars so the wheels pull straight under acceleration...
Lucky_32
15-06-2003, 20:16
The nightmare continues - they dropped the suspension again when they did the camber so i'll have to raise it again - only this time they used a monkey wrench on the aluminium platforms - knackered platforms and spring assistors what a bloody mess!!
The platform spanners were still in the boot where they put them when I picked the car up. :mad:
hopkinsgm
16-06-2003, 12:57
Originally posted by Lucky_32
...they dropped the suspension again when they did the camber...
Bear in mind that changes to ride height on a single wishbone McPhearson strut suspension (as you will have at the front) will change the camber settings anyway...
TBH, the amount of hassle you're having with this, i'd suggest you invest in a camber gauge and do the job yourself - a cheap gauge can easily pay for itself within two adjustments. And if you're adjusting ride height, then being able to dial the camber back to your desired setting when you tweak the height could be handy...
ibizacupra
16-06-2003, 13:39
A nice digital jobbie..... also doubles as a digital spirit level ;)
works a treat for me. £80 I think it cost me from a good tool shop. (Bosch one)
Bill
Lucky_32
16-06-2003, 19:03
Cheers guys was thinking that myself.
been looking at this also,demon tweeks have a variaty ranging from 50 -300+ quid,although mr phelps is making some,he was last seen leaving B&Q with vast sheets of chicken wire and some roofing felt:confused: :confused: :confused: