Need help with a pink car!!

[dozza.13]

Hey RubbishBoy, I could do with some of your expert advice and no doubt some of your excellent products!

I have bought a second car, it's a 96 polo in gloss red (tornado I think it's called) which has gone quite pink and very flat in several areas, and would like to return it to its former showroom glory if possible!

I presume the best way to do this would be with a machine polisher, after a good wash then a good session with some clay. However I dont own one (yet) and have only ever used one once. I see from your site you sell the pads but cant see any polishers, what kind would be best to suit my needs and which pads would I need to go with it? Are there any polishing or cutting compounds that you would recommend?

I already have Dodo Banana Armour and Orange Crush waxes and Red Mist for the final stages, but I will also need some shampoo, clay, lube, and of course the bits I mentioned above.

Is there anything else you think I would need?

Thanks in advance for your help,

Regards,
James

[Rubbish Boy]

Yes James, a machine polish would definitely be the best way to sort that out, you need to get rid of that oxidised paint layer. Have you got any pictures of it so we can see what it's like?

Process would be along the lines: wash, clay etc like you say, then polish to remove the oxidised paint, paint cleanse/glaze (Lime Prime Lite), then wax (x2) then red mist (after a few hours).

If you are going to go the machine route, I would say you are going to need a selection of pads and polishes, you could go for one of the one style polishes, but doing something like this it is good to have a few tricks up you sleave. You want to start with the least abrasive/aggressive product, see how that performs, if it achieves the results great use it on the rest of the car, if not step up in agressiveness and try again. If you have to go more agressive you may need/want to go over with a finer polish to bring the gloss out and correct and marring from using a more agressive polish.

Now the question of which machine to go for. :think: The Kestrel DAS6 is good machine, reasonably priced, seems reliable, easy to get on with. This is a dual action polisher along the lines of a Porter Cable or Megs G220, so it's a bit safer to use than a rotary.

A couple of caveats when trying to revive dead oxidised paint. It can have gone too far and the piant system may well have failed totally. When polishing the oils from the polish will soak into the porous paint and make it look like you have corrected the problem when you haven't. The pink will return very quickly. So you have to work systematically and make sure the porous layer has been cut back.

Okay products, it sounds like you have already looked at the site and seen the pads etc. As a minimum I would suggest these to get you started on a DA machine.
http://www.carnaubawaxshop.co.uk/shop/viewproduct.php?product_id=32
http://www.carnaubawaxshop.co.uk/shop/viewproduct.php?product_id=31
http://www.carnaubawaxshop.co.uk/shop/viewproduct.php?product_id=179
http://www.carnaubawaxshop.co.uk/shop/viewproduct.php?product_id=172

With the optional addition of these to give you a bit more flexibility:
http://www.carnaubawaxshop.co.uk/shop/viewproduct.php?product_id=76
http://www.carnaubawaxshop.co.uk/shop/viewproduct.php?product_id=77
http://www.carnaubawaxshop.co.uk/shop/viewproduct.php?product_id=11 (makes agreat finishing polish by machine)

I don't have any machines on the site, but could get my hands on a Kestrel for you if you wanted a bundle with some pads etc. Just let me know. :)

I you were going to give it a go by hand. Then go for some UNO (http://www.carnaubawaxshop.co.uk/shop/viewproduct.php?product_id=172), some applicators http://www.carnaubawaxshop.co.uk/shop/viewproduct.php?product_id=120 & http://www.carnaubawaxshop.co.uk/shop/viewproduct.php?product_id=100 and some Lime Prime Lite (http://www.carnaubawaxshop.co.uk/shop/viewproduct.php?product_id=75). Just make sure to work the polish well in small areas, to ensure you are removing the dead paint and breaking down the abrasive in the polish.

Hope that helps.

[dozza.13]

Thanks for the quick reply, I've had a quick look at the kestrel on the net and it looks ideal for my needs. I take it that dual action means different speeds of rotation?

I cant post any pics right now as I am working out in the gulf, however I will be back very soon, all I can say is some areas are very badly faded and the car is noticeably pink in several areas! When I do it ill post before and after pics here so everyone can see how it goes! :D

When using a machine polisher, is it adviseable to spray water onto the paint as you do it to keep it cool, as I have heard a few horror stories about people burning the paint!! :(

When I apply the polishes, I take it I use the polishing pad and then the finishing pad to take it off or do I remove it by hand with a microfibre cloth? (maybe a daft question, but just to clarify! :)) And if im using different grades of polish will i need 3 sets of polishing and finishing pads?

In your reply you mentioned that you have to cut back the porus layer of paint completely or it will come back very quickly. How do you know when you have cut it back enough? I dont want to end up going down to primer!! :lol:

A bundle deal with the pads and Kestrel polisher would be great if you could sort that mate, with the Qwik Kut MV-350, and Phase V Finessing Polish. I already have a bottle of lime Prime which I have used by hand on my ibiza, so I know how good it is! :)

Oh and I'd also need some shampoo, clay and lube as well, do you rate the new Dodo stuff? How much will that little lot come to? Sorry about all the questions, I just want to make sure I get it right!

Thanks for all the assistance! :D

[Rubbish Boy]

The dual action machines are bit easier to use and safer as they don't generate as much heat. So you're less likely to cause any damage although it can still go through paint fairly quickly on a panel edge or raised swage line.

There's no need to cool the panels with water, although if you find the polish drying too quick, you would want to maybe give a little spritz to get it working again.

You would work the polish with the polishing or finishing pad depending on what polish and what job you are doing. So if say using Qwik Kut you would use it with an orange polishing pad. You would work in a small section say 1ft x 1ft and work the polish for several minutes until it breaks down and goes clear. At this point you would slow the machine down and go over a couple of times. There will be very little residue left to remove, so use a microfibre towel to do that. Then you would use the Phase V on a finishing pad, worked in the same way, to refine the finish and bring out more gloss and remove any hologramming or marring from using the more agressive combo. Again remove any residue with a cloth.

The key things is to thoroughly work the polish, working in small sections (too big an area will mean you won't work the polish enough), to ensure the polish gets to do it's job.

Knowing when to stop and knowing when you have achieved the correction you need to comes with a bit of practice and experience. To be safe and to know how much paint you have to play a paint depth guage will tell you, they're quite expensive for a one off, so may be worthwhile trying to borrow one or get someone with one to take some readings for you.

I'll get some prices together and drop you a PM. :)

[dozza.13]

Sweet, thats cleared up a few things for me, thanks ever so much for the advice, eagerly waiting that PM :D

[dozza.13]

Have you got anywhere with those prices mate?

[Rubbish Boy]

Have you got anywhere with those prices mate?

Sorry James, you caught me napping. PM on it's way. :)

[dozza.13]

Sweet! :D