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View Full Version : Auto Gauge boost gauge. How to wire up correctly!!!!


godber225r
05-06-2009, 22:48
Seen lots of threads on here about wanting to know how to wire up the halfords auto gauge boost gauge. lots of people wanting to know what wire goes where so here it goes!!!:)

This is a guide on the correct way to fit/wire it up so you get it to light up and save the setting you last had it on, This does work as its the way i wired it up to my car and it works how it should.

1. Get some silicone 4mm inner diameter pipe about 3 metres worth.
2. T it from the FPR.
3. Drill hole in the grommet hole next to the main wiring loom under the scuttle panel but dont push the drill in too deep pearce your way through the foam with a screwdriver carefully
4. Push pipe trough hole and retrieve from the inside ( this takes alot of time and patience!!!) put a big blob of silicone around the pipe going into the car.
5. feed it up to your pillar pod and push into gauge.

Wiring THE CORRECT WAY.

Obviously extend all the wires from the gauge!!

6. join the black gauge wire (earth) to the brown wire on the light switch block
7. Join the purple and orange gauge wire(switched live) together and then join it to the grey wire with blue tracer on on switch block
8. join the yellow gauge wire (positive) to the fat red wire on the light switch block.

The gauge will light up when you put the ignition on. It will also dim when you use the dimmer.:)

The gauge readings (for a standard map 225) were 14 psi or 1 bar peak and 20 inhg

Hope this helps and clears things up for people?:D

Comments as usual are welcome?!

Sportrider
05-06-2009, 22:51
why couldnt you of put this up about 4weeks ago when i was struggling to fit mine lol :cartman:

should be made a sticky i think

Seat Gooner
05-06-2009, 23:01
sounds good to me mate im going to use this guide soon :D thank you

Rocky Rocastle
06-06-2009, 00:08
Nice guide :clap:

BoomhaueR
06-06-2009, 07:47
Good guide.
If you find the gauge buzzes on boost, then buy one of these and put it next to the gauge:
http://www.awesome-gti.co.uk/product.php?xProd=6778

One thing I found tricky was getting the wires out of the switch block/loom. How did you get them out to splice to the gauge wire?

J0N
06-06-2009, 08:12
Thats a good guide godber225r. I'd like to add the wiring for the oil temp and if someone wants to use the info to make a sticky feel free.

This is for the Auto-Gauge (Halfords) oil temp gauge.

Gauge Lighting. (These wires are on the back of the gauge).
Thick Yellow - Permanent Live 12v,
Thick Purple and Thick Orange - Twist them together and connect to a switched live. (One that becomes live when you switch your lights on.)
Thick Black - A Good Earth.

Gauge reading. (These wires are also on the back of the gauge).
Thin Black - A Good Earth. (Twist together with the thick black).
Thin Green - To the Red (or sometimes it's white) Wire on your sender.
Thin Red - To a Permanent Live 12v (Twist together with the Thick Yellow).

The Sender. (These wires are on the actual sender).
Red (Or Sometimes White) - To the Thin Green Wire as mentioned above.
Black - I connected mine directly to the battery negative (-).


It's especially important that you connect the thin red to a permanent live, if you connect it to the switched live from your lights it will read slightly lower than normal and the needle will go up and down with your dimmer switch.
Do all of this correctly and the gauge should remember what colour it was when you switched your ignition off (although these Halfords gauges don't always remember no matter how you wire them up) and the temperature needle should still read with the engine/ignition off.

Hope this helps, worked for me but if your car catches fire I cannot be held responsible.
If anyone thinks I've got it wrong please let me know, we don't want any disasters do we?

The electrical wiring for the boost gauge will be the same colours as the oil temp and I just wired them in together.

godber225r
06-06-2009, 10:57
Cheers guys thought i might as well do a guide for it as it saves allot of time and confusion. I had a oil temp gauge as well from auto gauge but decided not to fit it but it had exactly the same colour wires coming out of it so probably wire it up the same as boost gauge.

godber225r
06-06-2009, 10:59
It would be really nice to have this as a sticky too!!!! :)

Whoever deals with that!!?????:shrug:

AdamRoutley
06-06-2009, 11:14
so to accompany your write up, this is how you connected the following cables?

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w225/spudisdabest/switchedlive2.jpg

CupraUK
06-06-2009, 19:36
When you say the "grommet" next to the wiring loom, do you mean the plastic circle to the left of the wiring loom that looks like an optional piece of kit?

CupraUK
06-06-2009, 19:37
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w225/spudisdabest/switchedlive2.jpgWhat is this connector block? Is it in the fuse box?

seatcupra2001
06-06-2009, 19:58
What is this connector block? Is it in the fuse box?

also can i add will the instructions about the oil temp guage is this how to get the reading????? coz ive had oil temp gauge an still dont know how to fit it?:banghead: please help me:cry:

LEE69
06-06-2009, 20:12
What is this connector block? Is it in the fuse box?
It's the rear of the light switch.

tatepie
06-06-2009, 22:34
Seen lots of threads on here about wanting to know how to wire up the halfords auto gauge boost gauge. lots of people wanting to know what wire goes where so here it goes!!!:)

This is a guide on the correct way to fit/wire it up so you get it to light up and save the setting you last had it on, This does work as its the way i wired it up to my car and it works how it should.

1. Get some silicone 4mm inner diameter pipe about 3 metres worth.
2. T it from the FPR.
3. Drill hole in the grommet hole next to the main wiring loom under the scuttle panel but dont push the drill in too deep pearce your way through the foam with a screwdriver carefully
4. Push pipe trough hole and retrieve from the inside ( this takes alot of time and patience!!!) put a big blob of silicone around the pipe going into the car.
5. feed it up to your pillar pod and push into gauge.

Wiring THE CORRECT WAY.

Obviously extend all the wires from the gauge!!

6. join the black gauge wire (earth) to the brown wire on the light switch block
7. Join the purple and orange gauge wire(switched live) together and then join it to the grey wire with blue tracer on on switch block
8. join the yellow gauge wire (positive) to the fat red wire on the light switch block.

The gauge will light up when you put the ignition on. It will also dim when you use the dimmer.:)

The gauge readings (for a standard map 225) were 14 psi or 1 bar peak and 20 inhg

Hope this helps and clears things up for people?:D

Comments as usual are welcome?!

Excuse my ignorance but how did you `T` it, and what and where is the FPR?
Will it be the same process on my Tdi?
Cheers

LEE69
06-06-2009, 22:38
No TDi is different go into the diesel section, and have a looksy :)

brightsideteeem
07-06-2009, 01:17
Excuse my ignorance but how did you `T` it, and what and where is the FPR?
Will it be the same process on my Tdi?
Cheers

you dont t it in, you put it into the intercooler pipe, using a hosetail

CupraUK
07-06-2009, 01:54
It's the rear of the light switch.

Cheers

wisejason
07-06-2009, 07:07
Good guide mate.... will use this to fit my boost guage in a few weeks. I'll have to look for the wiring loom hole as I thought most people took the pipe through the boot release wire gromet.

LEE69
07-06-2009, 08:57
Good guide mate.... will use this to fit my boost guage in a few weeks. I'll have to look for the wiring loom hole as I thought most people took the pipe through the boot release wire gromet.

http://www.seatcupra.net/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=540&Itemid=6

wisejason
07-06-2009, 12:34
http://www.seatcupra.net/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=540&Itemid=6

Cheers Lee... thats the whole I was thinking of

godber225r
07-06-2009, 18:14
When you say the "grommet" next to the wiring loom, do you mean the plastic circle to the left of the wiring loom that looks like an optional piece of kit?

Yes the plastic bit to the side of it

adam cupra 20vt
07-06-2009, 18:35
Just a quick question to save me starting another thread.......

I have a boost gauge fitted but it only has 2 wires [obviously live and earth]

I now have a new gauge that has 3 wires-

1. permanent live
2. switched live.
3. Earth

The guage is a single colour and nothing fancy so I'm not sure why it needs a permant live?? Its one of the ones thats a blank face until you turn the ignition on then it lights up.

Am I right in thinking I can join the Permanent live and the switched live together and join them both to my current switched live? would be good for me as I already have the 2 wires in the pillar from the current gauge.

LEE69
07-06-2009, 18:38
Just a quick question to save me starting another thread.......

I have a boost gauge fitted but it only has 2 wires [obviously live and earth]

I now have a new gauge that has 3 wires-

1. permanent live
2. switched live.
3. Earth

The guage is a single colour and nothing fancy so I'm not sure why it needs a permant live?? Its one of the ones thats a blank face until you turn the ignition on then it lights up.

Am I right in thinking I can join the Permanent live and the switched live together and join them both to my current switched live? would be good for me as I already have the 2 wires in the pillar from the current gauge.

I don't see why not as you have no colour to "remember"

adam cupra 20vt
07-06-2009, 18:45
Thats what I thought, seems a bit strange that it needs a permant feed, hopefully it will be here tomorrow so I'll try it :)

J0N
08-06-2009, 14:35
Just a quick question to save me starting another thread.......

I have a boost gauge fitted but it only has 2 wires [obviously live and earth]

I now have a new gauge that has 3 wires-

1. permanent live
2. switched live.
3. Earth

The guage is a single colour and nothing fancy so I'm not sure why it needs a permant live?? Its one of the ones thats a blank face until you turn the ignition on then it lights up.

Am I right in thinking I can join the Permanent live and the switched live together and join them both to my current switched live? would be good for me as I already have the 2 wires in the pillar from the current gauge.

yes, join them together the same as the purple and orange on the Auto-Gauge. The reason for this is because the instrument lights on SEAT's come on when you turn on the ignition and not just when you switch the lights on, on other cars you would probably have to connect one to a switched live from the lights and the other from the ignition.

adam cupra 20vt
08-06-2009, 15:09
Thanks I will do if it ever turns up! :D

CupraUK
13-06-2009, 10:20
UHHHH.... just broke my windscreeen trying to remove the windscreen wipers to do this! F*kin great.

For sale; one auto guage + pipe

adam cupra 20vt
13-06-2009, 10:22
Sorry to hear that mate, did you use one of the removal tools?

CupraUK
13-06-2009, 10:24
I don't really know how to remove the windscreen wipers, so I was just carefully testing to see if it leavered off, obviously not carefully enough

adam cupra 20vt
13-06-2009, 10:26
You usually elevate the wiper and twist it until it comes off.....but its a bit late now. lol

Atleast you'll get a new window and the wipers will no longer be stuck as they'll have to take them off to fit new screen.

LEE69
13-06-2009, 10:36
What a pain, you fully comp?

CupraUK
13-06-2009, 10:40
Yeah, £75 excess

LEE69
13-06-2009, 10:51
Better than having to pay for it all.

CupraUK
13-06-2009, 11:13
Yep, sale of gauge will have to cover some of it though

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140326756729

Moffat
13-06-2009, 11:52
I'd just like to add, incase anyone's interested, that on the 4 wire Autogauge ones, where mentioned that you need to join the Orange and Purple wires together, You dont really. It depends how you want it set up. I can't remember which way round it is, but one of these wires is the face illumination for the gauge, and the other is the illumination for only the needle. In my last car i had mine wired up so that the needle illuminated with the ignition on, then the face didnt illuminate until i put the lights on. I know the dials are always illuminated on the Leons, but i just thought i'd mention incase anyone is interested.

adam cupra 20vt
13-06-2009, 12:08
yes, join them together the same as the purple and orange on the Auto-Gauge. The reason for this is because the instrument lights on SEAT's come on when you turn on the ignition and not just when you switch the lights on, on other cars you would probably have to connect one to a switched live from the lights and the other from the ignition.

I have installed it, joined them together and it works a treat...looks much better now it matches the rest of the dash lights to.

J0N
13-06-2009, 12:11
Very true, but this is in the Mk 1 Leon section. :D. Valid point though.

nutter_engineer
21-10-2009, 12:37
Altough not a wiring question, just wondering how did any of you replaced the standard tubing with a proper silicone one? Is the standard tubing up to the job or should it be replaced? In one of the other threads, it mentions the tube runs all the way into the guage so you have to run the clear tube into the silicone tube, is this so?

J0N
21-10-2009, 12:41
I just used the tubing supplied.

LEE69
21-10-2009, 12:42
The standard stuff is very thin walled, thicker stuff is better for vacuum.

No, just replace the whole tube in one go throw the clear stuff away.

nutter_engineer
21-10-2009, 13:54
The standard stuff is very thin walled, thicker stuff is better for vacuum.

No, just replace the whole tube in one go throw the clear stuff away.

Yeah I was thinking about getting some decent silicone for the job. what size should I be getting 3mm, 4mm or 5mm? Also, I was reading some other post that the clear tube is already connected to the gauge when you buy it and cant change the tube, hence running the clear tube inside silicone tubing, is that correct?

LEE69
21-10-2009, 14:05
I used 4mm.
Not in my case with the gauge it wasn't attached.

nicksxjr
23-11-2009, 22:02
im a wee bit confused. ive just bought a boost auto gauge. my wires are different colours as to the ones that are mentioned in the first post???

BLACK RED AND ORANGE

http://i566.photobucket.com/albums/ss106/nicksxjr/DSCI0083.jpg

borisvanhalen
24-11-2009, 00:30
im a wee bit confused. ive just bought a boost auto gauge. my wires are different colours as to the ones that are mentioned in the first post???

BLACK RED AND ORANGE

http://i566.photobucket.com/albums/ss106/nicksxjr/DSCI0083.jpg

see post 22... that may help

BoomhaueR
24-11-2009, 07:07
im a wee bit confused. ive just bought a boost auto gauge. my wires are different colours as to the ones that are mentioned in the first post???

BLACK RED AND ORANGE



See this:

http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=119724&highlight=wiring+guide

I think you can connect red and orange together first though.

:)

nicksxjr
24-11-2009, 08:43
Thanks ben!

godber225r
24-11-2009, 21:28
Its good to see this thread being used in the search function!!!!:p

nicksxjr
25-11-2009, 09:40
i love reviving threads

godber225r
25-11-2009, 19:35
I still want this as a sticky!!!

gex18
26-11-2009, 13:43
I know this is in the leon section, but I thought i'd ask anyway.

I have just bought an Autogauges boost gauge with stepmotor movement for my MK4 Ibiza Cupra. Now according to the OPs guide it should have

- Black Wire (Earth)
- Purple and Orange wires joined together
- Yellow

My gauge, however has the following :

Red - Battery (+)
Black - Engine ground
White - Ignition switch
Orange - Dimmer / +12v to dimmer.

So, is it as follows regarding wiring to the lighting panel

Gauge Lighting panel

Red Red
Black Brown
White ????
Orange ????

Can someone help me out here?:confused:

Many thanks

Anthony

S17EW O
12-01-2010, 00:43
cheers guys this is a great help. round 2 tomorow

godber225r
13-01-2010, 10:28
The search function really works!! :):):):):):)

im glad this guide has helped lots of people!!

S17EW O
13-01-2010, 22:57
guys....made progress...have got an auto gauge from halfords and wired up to the back of my lights switch following this very good thread. Next problem was that at first everything worked perfectly and it remembered the colour I set too but after a short spell the red of the digits dimmed but not the needle and then I could not change the color. The pin did nothing. Then to top it all it started changing to blue on its own. now its stuck on dim red lights appart from the needle and pin does nothing!?Does that sound like a bad connection or faulty gauge?

LEE69
14-01-2010, 06:38
If you are 100% sure the connections are good, it will be the gauge.
How did you connect the wires?

J0N
14-01-2010, 08:18
Thick Yellow - Permanent Live 12v, this is so it 'remembers' what colour it's on.
Thick Purple and Thick Orange - Twist them together and connect to a switched live. One is for the backlight and one is for the needle, can't remember which is which but it does'nt really matter on our cars. This is because on some cars you might want the needle lit all the time and the backlight to come on with the lights, etc. Although our instrument lights come on with the ignition you still want the purple and orange connecting to a switched live so the gauge stays lit with everything else when the lights are on but the ignition is off.

Also there is a setting on the gauge that keeps changing the colour, I suppose some people like it like that but it's also worth remembering that these gauges are not of the highest quality and can change colour of their own accord. I used to have both of mine set to blue because they matched my HU but one of them kept changing back to red even though they were wired in together, now I just leave them on red.

S17EW O
14-01-2010, 09:49
Well I had the wires soldered in. Will double check them though. Now you've said that I'm considering disconnecting. One of those wires because personally I think the needle is far too bright and I think u would still see it fine with just the backlight. What do you guys think?does anyone no which I disconnect?

godber225r
14-01-2010, 11:16
I would say you have a faulty gauge mate. I used bullet connectors to wire mine in and it worked first time and that was nearly a year ago and i have had no problems since.

If you wired it like a said on page 1 you cant go wrong it is the correct way to wire it up. I think the purple is the needle wire. as one is the needle and the other the backlight (orange)

I wouldnt say the needle is not that bright? can you use the dimmer? it will work with the gauge.

S17EW O
14-01-2010, 11:26
Na I think the needle is too bright. In comparison to the backlight. The dimmer works a treat. Would you no how to wire it so as the dimmer dims the boost gauge but leaves the normal gauges at full brightness?

J0N
14-01-2010, 11:46
Na I think the needle is too bright. In comparison to the backlight. The dimmer works a treat. Would you no how to wire it so as the dimmer dims the boost gauge but leaves the normal gauges at full brightness?

I would'nt start messing with the car's wiring, if you're finding the needle too bright just disconnect it.

SalSheikh
14-01-2010, 12:59
I still want this as a sticky!!!

me too!

godber225r
15-01-2010, 09:24
I wouldn't mess with the cars wiring. But you could if you realy wanted put a separate dimmer in just for the gauge. Im sure you could get one from a electrical store like maplin etc??

wayne lcr
15-01-2010, 12:06
i have done this but mine dunt remember the colour ? i have to press the button to change it to red what have i done wrong:(

godber225r
15-01-2010, 15:46
Have you made sure you connected the yellow gauge wire to the fat red wire on switchblock as this
is permanent live you need for memory? Have you double checked connections are good?

k_pt
29-01-2010, 04:12
one thing I dont understand
in some tutorials on the net is, theres a T on the installation ... shouldn't only go a tube from the IC pipe to the gauge?

(edit: I going for tdi pd)

stevekkk1
31-01-2010, 15:09
whats an fpr and where is it?

LEE69
31-01-2010, 15:25
Mines in the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) follow the blue hose ;)

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w91/LEE_69/Leon/Engine/DSCF0316.jpg

stevekkk1
24-02-2010, 13:33
fitted mine at the weekend, took me 6 hrs but got there in the end, i used a long screwdriver for getting the vacuum pipe through the bulk head into the footwell, worked a treat, just taped the pipe to the end of the screwdriver and gently pushed it through the grommit. great instructions, very easy to follow

thanx

collins
28-02-2010, 13:36
hi guys,have managed to get the electrical side all wired up and working but cant see at all where the vac hose comes into the car,have drilled the grommet carefully and everything but cant see it at all inside the car,even with the fuse block removed and peering into the back of the dash,can feel some foam though.any ideas??

LEE69
28-02-2010, 13:40
Feed the hose into the car and it will fall in to view, if it doesn't put your hand up in the direction, should be easy.

stevekkk1
28-02-2010, 13:40
have you removed the trim underneath the steering wheel?

collins
28-02-2010, 23:40
have you removed the trim underneath the steering wheel?

no not yet,you recon to just take off the kick plate trim and i will be able to see it then?i just tried through the fuse board side on the dash.will give it a go next weekend then

LEE69
01-03-2010, 06:16
No the under dash trim
http://www.icecavern.com/howtos/leonlowerdashtrim/main.php

rsmith
08-03-2010, 22:48
Hey all,

Sorry to resurret this thread, i have bought a new digital LED boost guage, http://www.rspec.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3_103&products_id=469

I need to confirm with somebody the wiring as its slightly different that any of the ones i have searched for on here.

It has the below:

Yellow = Battery (+)
Red = 12v+ Ignition switch
Black = ground

So if i read this thread right, my install should go

Yellow to fat red wire on the light switch block.
Red to grey wire with blue tracer on on switch block
Black to Brown

Is this correct?

k_pt
08-03-2010, 23:02
Hey all,

Sorry to resurret this thread, i have bought a new digital LED boost guage,

I need to confirm with somebody the wiring as its slightly different that any of the ones i have searched for on here.

It has the below:

Yellow = Battery (+)
Red = 12v+ Ignition switch
Black = ground

So if i read this thread right, my install should go

Yellow to fat red wire on the light switch block.
Red to grey wire with blue tracer on on switch block
Black to Brown

Is this correct?

I only had 2 wires on my boost gauge, a red and a black one, I unplugged the TCS/ESP button, and wired up the 2 wires of the boost, dont make connection with ignition on, you will burn a fuse (like I did lol) if you wire it wrong ... but if the ignition is off and you turn it on, even if its wired incorrectly, theres no problem :)

TCS/ESP plug has 3 holes, you'll just have to find out wich of them are de pos and neg, i just inserted the wire on the plug holes, and plugged it to the button, fixed and simple

Its working perfectly.

To pass thru the firewall, find a little rubber on the left side of your engine bay (on a LHD) near the electrovalve box, the black box with lots of hoses, take of that rubber and stick the hose to you get to the side panel of the dashboard, then bring it to where you want it

if need, i'll post some pics

sorry my for spelling, I know its bad :p

DannyC87
08-03-2010, 23:07
Hey all,

Sorry to resurret this thread, i have bought a new digital LED boost guage, http://www.rspec.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3_103&products_id=469

I need to confirm with somebody the wiring as its slightly different that any of the ones i have searched for on here.

It has the below:

Yellow = Battery (+)
Red = 12v+ Ignition switch
Black = ground

So if i read this thread right, my install should go

Yellow to fat red wire on the light switch block.
Red to grey wire with blue tracer on on switch block
Black to Brown

Is this correct?

Since this is a digital gauge and won't have adjustable brightness there is an easier way than tapping the light switch; take the lower dash off on the drivers side, you with see the main power distribution blocks; crimp holed crimps onto your boost gauge wires and add on to this terminals, red to yellow and yellow to red. Above and to the left is the dash board earthing point; black to here. Ensure you use inline fuses where appropriate (yellow wire on gauge). Disconnect the battery before doing this.

Otherwise, from memory what you have said does look right :)

rsmith
08-03-2010, 23:13
Since this is a digital gauge and won't have adjustable brightness there is an easier way than tapping the light switch; take the lower dash off on the drivers side, you with see the main power distribution blocks; crimp holed crimps onto your boost gauge wires and add on to this terminals, red to yellow and yellow to red. Above and to the left is the dash board earthing point; black to here. Ensure you use inline fuses where appropriate (yellow wire on gauge). Disconnect the battery before doing this.

Otherwise, from memory what you have said does look right :)

THanks, What do you mean about inline fuses? before back in the good old days for fuses i would just crimp 2 connections with a connector and insert a fuse effectively joining them connection via the fuse.

Which wires would i need to fuse?

rsmith
08-03-2010, 23:15
I only had 2 wires on my boost gauge, a red and a black one, I unplugged the TCS/ESP button, and wired up the 2 wires of the boost, dont make connection with ignition on, you will burn a fuse (like I did lol) if you wire it wrong ... but if the ignition is off and you turn it on, even if its wired incorrectly, theres no problem :)

TCS/ESP plug has 3 holes, you'll just have to find out wich of them are de pos and neg, i just inserted the wire on the plug holes, and plugged it to the button, fixed and simple

Its working perfectly.

To pass thru the firewall, find a little rubber on the left side of your engine bay (on a LHD) near the electrovalve box, the black box with lots of hoses, take of that rubber and stick the hose to you get to the side panel of the dashboard, then bring it to where you want it

if need, i'll post some pics

sorry my for spelling, I know its bad :p
Thanks i have all the engine bay stuff complete and brought into the cabin already.

DannyC87
08-03-2010, 23:20
THanks, What do you mean about inline fuses? before back in the good old days for fuses i would just crimp 2 connections with a connector and insert a fuse effectively joining them connection via the fuse.

Which wires would i need to fuse?

The distribution block you will tap into is not fused..hence you need a fuse between the gauge and the dist. block in the permanent live. Switched live dist. block is fused already IIRC.

rsmith
08-03-2010, 23:31
The distribution block you will tap into is not fused..hence you need a fuse between the gauge and the dist. block in the permanent live. Switched live dist. block is fused already IIRC.

Danny,
This is off VWvortex, is this the connector your are talking about instead of using the dimmer switch block?

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2672579

DannyC87
08-03-2010, 23:35
Danny,
This is off VWvortex, is this the connector your are talking about instead of using the dimmer switch block?

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2672579

That is the one. I just found the dimmer switch a PITA to get to and tap into neatly with all of the sheathing etc.

rsmith
08-03-2010, 23:39
That is the one. I just found the dimmer switch a PITA to get to and tap into neatly with all of the sheathing etc.

Cool, and lastly and sorry to be a pain, which connection will i inline fuse, consant 12v and switched 12v, i.e the red and the yellow cable?

DannyC87
08-03-2010, 23:44
Cool, and lastly and sorry to be a pain, which connection will i inline fuse, consant 12v and switched 12v, i.e the red and the yellow cable?

constant, red block (yellow cable)

rsmith
08-03-2010, 23:46
constant, red block (yellow cable)

Got it, thanks.

DannyC87
09-03-2010, 00:13
Got it, thanks.

no probs

rsmith
09-03-2010, 14:53
no probs

I wired these bad boys up today, total PITA to do but worth it IMO, thanks for your help with the wiring

http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showpost.php?p=2848885&postcount=92

MrNorma
09-05-2010, 00:06
bring this back again.

i have auto gauge boost and oil temp. Both have 4 wires and i only want the lights to come on when i turn the lights on.

Any tips on wiring been searching for ages as i dont want to cut into wires until i know i have the right ones.

godber225r
19-05-2010, 19:12
That will just look odd mate. all the lights come on when the ignition comes on so i would keep it that way.

Wire it up as i mentioned in the start of the guide and you wont go wrong it does work.

k_pt
19-05-2010, 19:15
bring this back again.

i have auto gauge boost and oil temp. Both have 4 wires and i only want the lights to come on when i turn the lights on.

Any tips on wiring been searching for ages as i dont want to cut into wires until i know i have the right ones.

I grabbed the energy from the ESP/TCS button

MrNorma
20-05-2010, 08:10
That will just look odd mate. all the lights come on when the ignition comes on so i would keep it that way.

Wire it up as i mentioned in the start of the guide and you wont go wrong it does work.

All done now. Its wired up so that the gauges only light up when i turn the lights on, ie when its dark. There also controlled by the dash dimmer for brightness. All done now.

I just thought it would look daft the gauge lights coming on with no other lights...:shrug:

leoncupra666
30-06-2010, 21:08
what length of the 4mm silicone hose do i need

tinner
17-07-2010, 15:53
Im an absolute novice when it comes to wiring, so was wondering how the hell u get the wires out of the connecter block :confused: (see post 9)

LEE69
17-07-2010, 15:58
You don't get them out you just "piggy back" onto them.
Either solder the new wire to the one you "need" or cut the wire and use crimpers/electrical connectors/chocolate/amp blocks.

tinner
17-07-2010, 16:01
legend! also will the position if the fpr be the same on my lcr?

LEE69
17-07-2010, 16:02
Yes same place.

tinner
17-07-2010, 16:05
cheers dude, much appreciated:)

seatleontdi
22-12-2010, 23:29
godber225r wer can i find the fpr pipe? 9ve wired mine in n its permenantly runs in -2.0 to -3.0 cud i have put it into the wrong pipe from the turbo?

MarkWales
22-12-2010, 23:34
need to sort mine keeps losing colour select

godber225r
18-02-2011, 19:22
godber225r wer can i find the fpr pipe? 9ve wired mine in n its permenantly runs in -2.0 to -3.0 cud i have put it into the wrong pipe from the turbo?

What car you got? take off the engine cover its on the injection rail on the right hand side looks like a dump valve but its not!!! (Thats the FPR) has a pipe coming off it T into that and cable tie the pipe across the rail and around the pipes to go up into the bulkhead

godber225r
18-02-2011, 19:24
need to sort mine keeps losing colour select

You have your switched and permanent live the wrong way round. Wire it up as original post and it will work corectly

cjhawker
19-05-2011, 12:17
Sorry to bring back an old thread but have a few questions.

Had my AutoGauge Boost gauge setup and working for about 6 months it used to:
remember last selected colour
dim with light dimmer etc
generally working as expected

but recently it has:

started forgetting the last colour

when cycling through the 7 colours it will get stuck after the first repeat of the 7 colours i.e. after 8 clicks it them stops changing colour and doesn't start working again until you leave ignition off for a while occasionally it will start working after switching ignition off and on immediately.


Also the needle always sits at about -2 and always has which is annoying


I have check the fuse t the perm live and checked connections (as best i could as the wires are in crimp connectors and are now taped up to stop movement. If this likely a fault gauge or a faulty connection?

Also will halfords replace it after 6month (i do the have receipt)

cheers

adambudders
15-07-2011, 13:46
Sorry to bring back an old thread but have a few questions.

Had my AutoGauge Boost gauge setup and working for about 6 months it used to:
remember last selected colour
dim with light dimmer etc
generally working as expected

but recently it has:

started forgetting the last colour

when cycling through the 7 colours it will get stuck after the first repeat of the 7 colours i.e. after 8 clicks it them stops changing colour and doesn't start working again until you leave ignition off for a while occasionally it will start working after switching ignition off and on immediately.


Also the needle always sits at about -2 and always has which is annoying


I have check the fuse t the perm live and checked connections (as best i could as the wires are in crimp connectors and are now taped up to stop movement. If this likely a fault gauge or a faulty connection?

Also will halfords replace it after 6month (i do the have receipt)

cheers

should have a 12 month warranty mate. just bought one today and mine has.

crezz
07-09-2011, 20:44
ive got my new glow shift gauge from the usa, just reading the instruction for fitting and it states it shouldnt be used with a dimmer, what way should i wire it up then? i assume the light switch itself has the dimmer unit built in?

dgjdrummer
16-11-2011, 11:32
Sorry for another thread resurrection, but I'm having issues with the Autogauge 3-wire boost gauge!

The gauge lights up with ignition and when the dimmer is not on full power lights up as white but wont change colour....then when I put the dimmer to full power the light turns green and will change colour briefly when i press the button on the gauge but reverts back to green and flickers constantly thereafter :S

I've wired up as below:

Black wire - brown wire in light block
Red & Orange(or Yellow) - connected together and wired to grey/blue wire in light block

Should i connect the orange wire to the fat red wire as indicated in earlier posts? I'm just unsure why the dimmer switch is interfering with the signal!

Thanks in advance guys.

dgjdrummer
21-11-2011, 17:42
Sorry for another thread resurrection, but I'm having issues with the Autogauge 3-wire boost gauge!

The gauge lights up with ignition and when the dimmer is not on full power lights up as white but wont change colour....then when I put the dimmer to full power the light turns green and will change colour briefly when i press the button on the gauge but reverts back to green and flickers constantly thereafter :S

I've wired up as below:

Black wire - brown wire in light block
Red & Orange(or Yellow) - connected together and wired to grey/blue wire in light block

Should i connect the orange wire to the fat red wire as indicated in earlier posts? I'm just unsure why the dimmer switch is interfering with the signal!

Thanks in advance guys.

BUMP!

I've re-wired as per the 3-wire guide (Red to grey/blue, Black to brown and Yellow to thick red) and the light on the gauge now dims correctly but still flickers after i've started the engine and won't hold the colour when i've selected it :shrug:

Could it just be a dodgy gauge in need of replacing? I've checked all the wiring connections and they're all solid, not sure what else it could be...

dgjdrummer
28-11-2011, 18:30
Bumpity bump!

Anyone? Gettin hacked off with my gauge now, have checked the wiring and tried the dimmer switch on various power levels, only lets me change colour with the dimmer on full (engine not running) and flickers if the dimmer is on full once i start the engine :confused:

TheBigGM
01-12-2011, 11:23
Sorry to be totally thick but where can you get the extended wires from? I'm assuming we will need like a junction box to connect these together? (this is relating to the original post by the way)

shadyshades91
15-02-2012, 17:07
sorry im a newbie wot does fpr stand for and i carnt find the diesel section did u mean in tht pdf or on here lol

shadyshades91
15-02-2012, 17:10
the big GM i would extened cable cud cause a loose in connection or cause a leak id re-wire it with the correct length of hose or wires needed i never recommend joining cable i work in a electric shop and the amount of customers that have ****ing things up with joins here there and everywhere.

stevekkk1
15-02-2012, 18:56
Bumpity bump!

Anyone? Gettin hacked off with my gauge now, have checked the wiring and tried the dimmer switch on various power levels, only lets me change colour with the dimmer on full (engine not running) and flickers if the dimmer is on full once i start the engine :confused:

if the light is flickering i would guess at a poor connection sumwhere or interference, but if you have checked you wires and connections then my guess is the gauge is faulty.

i wired my gauge in using this thread a few years ago and didnt have any problems, it did go through a stage of not staying on red after ignition off on again but that has seemed to clear itself up without me touching it

if you can exchange the gauge

dgjdrummer
16-02-2012, 18:17
if the light is flickering i would guess at a poor connection sumwhere or interference, but if you have checked you wires and connections then my guess is the gauge is faulty.

i wired my gauge in using this thread a few years ago and didnt have any problems, it did go through a stage of not staying on red after ignition off on again but that has seemed to clear itself up without me touching it

if you can exchange the gauge

Ah ok, I've checked the connections and even changed the cables themselves to ensure there were no splits or interference but it still reacts the same. The gauge came with the car so unfortunately I'm stuck with it :(

Cheers for the help though mate.

mcdatkyid
07-03-2012, 00:19
im a newby on here and this is a great guide! il be fitting it tomorrow.....or at least trying lol

cuprastoffs
09-03-2012, 01:27
What is the general feedback on these gauges? Accuracy mostly as they are rather cheap. :think: Been looking at the new defi but quite pricey.

mcdatkyid
09-03-2012, 20:11
Fitted my auto sport gauge Wednesday and it was a right mission loool!


I have the one that sits in your drivers ride side air vent. I had to drill a hole through the gromet Under the plastic cover beneath the drivers window wiperand try feed the silicon hosing through. Taking the dashboard to peices under the steering wheel finally managed it! Wiring it up was a little easier :-) took it for a spin and my readings were a vac reading of 20 on idle, 0 when reving it stationaryand boosts to 18 psi giving it death!

Looks great too with the choice of colours !!

prittchauhan
18-03-2012, 16:25
could you please post a pic of where you pit the T piece in please,

just bought a auto gauge from halfords but aint got clue so i would like to se a pic of T piece fitted on the FPR

ive got a standard leon cupra 1.8t 20v facelift if im right (no the R version)

thanka

domin8or
30-03-2012, 18:04
Seen lots of threads on here about wanting to know how to wire up the halfords auto gauge boost gauge. lots of people wanting to know what wire goes where so here it goes!!!:)

This is a guide on the correct way to fit/wire it up so you get it to light up and save the setting you last had it on, This does work as its the way i wired it up to my car and it works how it should.

1. Get some silicone 4mm inner diameter pipe about 3 metres worth.
2. T it from the FPR.
3. Drill hole in the grommet hole next to the main wiring loom under the scuttle panel but dont push the drill in too deep pearce your way through the foam with a screwdriver carefully
4. Push pipe trough hole and retrieve from the inside ( this takes alot of time and patience!!!) put a big blob of silicone around the pipe going into the car.
5. feed it up to your pillar pod and push into gauge.

Wiring THE CORRECT WAY.

Obviously extend all the wires from the gauge!!

6. join the black gauge wire (earth) to the brown wire on the light switch block
7. Join the purple and orange gauge wire(switched live) together and then join it to the grey wire with blue tracer on on switch block
8. join the yellow gauge wire (positive) to the fat red wire on the light switch block.

The gauge will light up when you put the ignition on. It will also dim when you use the dimmer.:)

The gauge readings (for a standard map 225) were 14 psi or 1 bar peak and 20 inhg

Hope this helps and clears things up for people?:D

Comments as usual are welcome?!

Any idea what gauge should be reading on a .cupra 1.8T 2002 AUQ engine,only mod Forge 007P Valve & Green cotton Panel filter ?
Reply would be great.
THanks
Calum

joshbennett
01-04-2012, 19:34
My readings are 20 psi vac at idle. Rev the engine and it is around 0 psi. Go out for a spin and it hits 12 ish psi. that seems low?

domin8or
01-04-2012, 19:52
My readings are 20 psi vac at idle. Rev the engine and it is around 0 psi. Go out for a spin and it hits 12 ish psi. that seems low?

Is that on std. 1.8t engine ?
I seem to be getting the same at idle,std.sort of rev. about zero and up to about 11-12 on boost,about the same,must be about right then.:shrug:
Calum.