View Full Version : Running rough - coilpack?
Just had the car re-mapped and now the car is running rough, my first (and only) thought is that a coil pack has gone but the car is also smelling like a sort of eggy smell, is this still consistent with a coil pack failure? i know that after a remap these are prone to failing but i was not expecting the smell, can anyone help, i ran a check on vag-com but nothing showing.
adam cupra 20vt
14-07-2009, 20:43
When a coil pack goes it stinks, more of a burning smell tho.
When is it running rough, Phill?
james walker
14-07-2009, 21:05
never had a smelly coilpack before
thought he eggy smell was symptoms of a dodgy cat?
shauncupra
14-07-2009, 21:33
Firstly unplug each injector seperately whilst the car is running, and see if the engine note changes on idle, if a coil pack has gone it will *not* make any difference to the way the engine is running, so therfore the coil pack in front of that injector is faulty/failed ., or this might sound strange but pop all four coil packs out and sniff them, one should smell like its burnt out, thats if its the coil packs!
Anyway see if that helps cos thats exactly what happened to mine just after a remap earlier this month and since then its happened twice
When is it running rough, Phil?
All the time now, it was fine all day then i went out, and after a couple of minutes it started to run rough its just like its lost a cylinder but has the smell, i switched it off but it was the same when i restarted it.
thought he eggy smell was symptoms of a dodgy cat?
thats what i thought, but didn't think it would cause the engine would run like it is.
Coilpack would be the prime candidate....
Yeah i am going to get some tomorrow, i will replace all four, any suggestions as to the best place to get them and which one's, i went to my local Motor shop and they where the same price as the steelers for non oe, i have a price from Dave at sere but i need them for friday morning to get to cholmondeley!!
could be coil pack m8 causing over fueling then the cat may give off eggy smell due to the fuel burning in there ... hope you get it sorted soon
Snoop[B)]
could be coil pack m8 causing over fueling then the cat may give off eggy smell due to the fuel burning in there ... hope you get it sorted soon
Snoop[B)]
To be honest thats what i though was happening but wanted to check first in case anyone knew some thing different. :D
turbo009
14-07-2009, 22:27
Seems like coil pack to me to and if you buy some get the bolt down ones from gsf car parts
Ronin225
14-07-2009, 22:47
Should be an easy job to change the coilpacks on yours being as your N249 resovoir has gone
If you do buy non OE ones let me know what they are like as i think a spare one is a handy item to have
mike2926
14-07-2009, 22:51
i have had a coil pack go on a focus and it smelled VERY eggy so i would definatly say it is a coil pack
shauncupra
14-07-2009, 23:27
got my coil packs from gsf recently they were only £25.00+vat roughly and their been fine so far..
Ok all four coil packs replaced and problem resolved, thanks for all your advice :D
adam cupra 20vt
15-07-2009, 12:36
Nice one :D
where did you get them from and how much were they?
Nice one :D
where did you get them from and how much were they?
I got them from a VW dealer @ £28.75inc so £115 gutted as that was my front arb money:cry:
Nice one phillc. This should hopefully save a lot of peeps extra money in diagnosing coilpack failure.
m.r.davies
16-08-2009, 09:29
Few questions
I have the juddering, burning and egg smell, but also have ecu light flashing
car is done 55. And not had issue before
does it sound like coil pack?
If so are there any guides to replacing
and what are the aftermarket ones like ... Cost too if poss
anyone know gsf prices?
got my coil packs from gsf recently they were only £16.00 roughly and their been fine so far..
and what are the aftermarket ones like ... Cost too if poss
anyone know gsf prices?
:p
:)
m.r.davies
16-08-2009, 19:03
ah thanks mate
sorry, was looking on my iphone....small screen so missed that
i'll go down and order some tomorrow
are they easy to fit?
should i not be driving the car?
GSF will stock them take some tools and do it there ;)
Never changed mine (think i'm the only one on here not too lmao) number 4 you have to move the reservoir but that's easy enough.
m.r.davies
16-08-2009, 22:43
thanks mate
but i really dont know what a coil pack is and where to look for it
does anyone know of a guide for these?
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2964360
m.r.davies
17-08-2009, 07:42
Thanks fella
m.r.davies
18-08-2009, 13:25
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2964360
all done
was really easy to do
would have been easier if it was one of the exposed ones, however, i had to undo the remove the thing covering the other 2.
hardest part was figuring out which one had gone (trial and error)
although the broken one did smell funny
GSF was £2 cheaper than dealer at about £30
they only sell the original part now.
Nice one, bit of a difference from £16 now though :(
bakez222
29-08-2009, 14:56
if you guys want coil packs, go to Euro Car Parts as i work for them and we supply the genuine coils cheaper than the dealers and also OE Beru coils too! Just be careful coz there are some really nasty cheap coils out there lol!
ibizaluke
26-09-2009, 19:28
just bought myself an ibiza cupra, the coils have just gone, which once are the best to buy, must reliabe, best for proformance etc?
Giant AC1
13-10-2009, 20:22
[QUOTE=shauncupra;2517104]Firstly unplug each injector seperately whilst the car is running, and see if the engine note changes on idle, if a coil pack has gone it will *not* make any difference to the way the engine is running, so therfore the coil pack in front of that injector is faulty/failed ., or this might sound strange but pop all four coil packs out and sniff them, one should smell like its burnt out, thats if its the coil packs!
top tip my good man (and you've saved me the bother of started ANOTHER coil pack thread)
:D
VIKINGODIN
20-10-2009, 05:14
Hi guys,Ive just bought a mk1 cupra r 210,when I accelarate and reach 4000 revs it starts to jolt/judder/jump,there doesnt seem to be as much power as there should be,when i reached 120mph on the track the other weekend it wouldnt go any faster and the revs wouldnt go past 5000 in 5th or 6th gear,can anyone help me?Thanks :cry:
m.r.davies
20-10-2009, 13:06
Hi guys,Ive just bought a mk1 cupra r 210,when I accelarate and reach 4000 revs it starts to jolt/judder/jump,there doesnt seem to be as much power as there should be,when i reached 120mph on the track the other weekend it wouldnt go any faster and the revs wouldnt go past 5000 in 5th or 6th gear,can anyone help me?Thanks :cry:
when my coil pack went it was rough through entire rev range
shauncupra
20-10-2009, 18:27
It could be coils mate but it could also be a plug/plugs breaking down which would effect it as the compression will be higher at a high rpm's and what could be happening is what they call spark blow out
might be worth checking your plugs matey..
VIKINGODIN
20-10-2009, 18:52
It could be coils mate but it could also be a plug/plugs breaking down which would effect it as the compression will be higher at a high rpm's and what could be happening is what they call spark blow out
might be worth checking your plugs matey..
Hi shauncupra,thanks for advice :) would it affect the way the turbo seems to pull cos sometimes it seems it pulls nicely and im glued to the chair where as other times in high gears it just half gives it to me,i dont have turbo gauges so i dont know,it crapped out when i first bought it and guys in garage reckon there was a loose hose and they fixed it after putting it on an ice machine or summat lol,but since then it kinda judders when accelarating :(
ibizaluke
21-10-2009, 18:40
when my coil packs first started to go it only used to miss fire when i got into the higher revs and then deterated to a perminant miss fire, if that helps
VIKINGODIN
22-10-2009, 05:09
when my coil packs first started to go it only used to miss fire when i got into the higher revs and then deterated to a perminant miss fire, if that helps
Would that make the car judder a lil bit on accelerating past 4000 revs and also stop it going over 120mph?what does misfiring sound/feel like?
shauncupra
28-10-2009, 23:53
Hi shauncupra,thanks for advice :) would it affect the way the turbo seems to pull cos sometimes it seems it pulls nicely and im glued to the chair where as other times in high gears it just half gives it to me,i dont have turbo gauges so i dont know,it crapped out when i first bought it and guys in garage reckon there was a loose hose and they fixed it after putting it on an ice machine or summat lol,but since then it kinda judders when accelarating :(
You could get a gauge put in mate just to see if its holding boost correctly..
as for the juddering it could well be a coil/s breaking down under load but usualy they just go, or like i said a bad plug/s which is no real ill spend for piece of mind to be honest.. (be sure they are at least NGK platinum/iridium's or similar)
see how you get on and let us know
cheers ;)
ThackersLCR
30-10-2009, 16:19
Hi guys. Good bit of reading here. I think im having coil pack issues also. Iv been overfueling for a couple of weeks, when looking last week, notied number 1 had com out of its housing, not so that it misfired, but theres lack of power at top end, presumably when i reach the higher revs but what would cause it to do this? Plugs are all in correctly and iv swapped the suspect coil into number 2, where it also rises up.
Was going to say loose plugs.
ThackersLCR
30-10-2009, 17:09
Thats what i thought, i dont get how it can rise up. (my coil pack i mean) So thats when i moved it to 2 and took both spark plugs out of 1 n 2, took some pics n put them back in. Im not heavy handed but theyre tight in. I have ordered a coil pack and il have a butchers at the plugs again :shrug:
cupragav
02-11-2009, 10:23
I am having problems with mine now aswell. Plus am a bit of a thicko when it comes to engines. So the "coilpack" plugs on top of the spark plugs?
Also do u need to change the spark plugs at the same time?
Yes is on top, you don't have to change the spark plugs.
cupragav
02-11-2009, 11:22
Sweet. So to find the one has gone wrong do I start the car and disconect each one to see if any change happens and th one that doesn't change the idle s the bust one
adam cupra 20vt
02-11-2009, 14:35
£26 each from GSF for OE replacement ones, they sell cheaper ones to.
ThackersLCR
02-11-2009, 17:51
The rising coil pack has now been replaced with a brand spanker. Battery disconnected while i watched yesterdays grand prix - what a track must i add! But overfueling and flat spot have gone! Quite chuffed and releaved it wasnt somethin more complex. Cheers guys.
cupragav
02-11-2009, 19:07
which one of these is it guys?
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Seat_Leon_1.8_2004/p/Car-Parts/Engine-Parts/Ignition/Ignition-Coils
cupragav
03-11-2009, 11:19
woo hoo cheers for your help people the car is all fixed now :-)
super_electric
08-11-2009, 17:36
hope you dont mind me jumping in on this but :wtf:,.. First off the jubilee clip that goes around the TIP.. Had come lose from the turbo end.. And the car was juddering really bad had 2 accelerate real slow…. After getting the turbo inlet pipe (TIP) back on and sorted the car is still juddering in all gears the harder you pull away the worst it gets!!……. From what I have been reading could this be a coil pack issue?:shrug:
super_electric
18-11-2009, 10:44
yes Richard this does sound very much like this could be a coil pack issue :p, well guess what it sure was :-o all sorted now tho thanks for your help lol… :ban:
diirty_dave
19-11-2009, 23:36
ive been told ive to get 4 coil packs?? ive been looking online, can someone give me a direct link to wat i need! got the same symtoms as every1 else, ecu light flashing and not idling properly and very low power.
Hey Guys,
I've decided to replace all of my ignition coils as I'm getting the symptoms described in this thread.
One was replaced about a month ago before I bought it but now I think one of the other 3 old ones have gone to so I'm biting the bullet and replacing all 4.
When I bought them, my uncle (mechanic) advised that his supplier has suggested replacing the connector block wire thing as these are also known to be faulty so I've bought them too.
Just wondering if anyone else on here has replaced this part whilst doing the coils?
m.r.davies
10-12-2009, 09:34
i've had 2 go now
when the first one went it was juddering on tick over
when the second one went, it was juddering when you gave it some beans.....i'm sure it would have got worse.
my question is, has anyone had more than 2 go down?
if so, was there a big gap between the first 2 and following 2
the reason i ask, is the guy in GSF said they usually go in pairs, so now 2 have gone, it maybe a while before the other 2 fail
I'm just trying to establish if there is a trend.
if so, i'll hold off buying a spare with christmas around the corner!
so please respond if you're on your 3rd/4th coil pack, and your comments on the time between replacing the 2nd and 3rd
DJ-LIAMC
21-12-2009, 10:41
Mine just went this mornin i think! on the way to work no power engine light flashing rough idle and drive almost felt like it was going to stall if i didnt keep the revs up, Im guessing this is a coil pack, will be replacing all 4, does a fault code show on Vagcom when one has gone??
will be replacing all 4, does a fault code show on Vagcom when one has gone??
I didn't get any codes or lights for that matter,
my question is, has anyone had more than 2 go down?
if so, was there a big gap between the first 2 and following 2
It is quite normal for more than one to go at atime , thats why its agood idea to change all four, which i think most people do, so having more than two go will be an unknown as they will have been changed
Just got my car remapped and i was warned by the tuner and also read threads about coil packs before...
after a good hour getting used to the new power band i did start to smell a hefty egg smell and backed off thinking coilpacks. but after 3hrs more driving i havent smelt it again or experienced any lack of power or warning lights.
Is this a sign they may pop soon? worth doing anyway on a 70k car?
My mpg has fallen quiet a bit but I'm not sure if this is a hint at the coilpack or merely remap...
CUPRAMUNKY
14-01-2010, 09:31
Just for the guy's who are going to be buying coil packs the OEM ones are ok however try and find your local TPS centre i have priced some up for mine and they were £22.75 + vat for genuine ones so cheaper than OEM and they come with a 2 year warranty to.
Wolvotim
25-01-2010, 13:44
im getting a bit of stuttering when putting small amounts of throttle on when cold. its fine when warm. from what ive read this doesnt sound quite like coil packs.
what you guys think?
kineticz
31-01-2010, 02:47
In the past couple of days my fuel economy has dropped and under full throttle it sometimes doesn't reach the boost it should at all, like sometimes it will go as it should to 20psi and other times it will only reach 14psi :S
I am going to unplug each coilpack tomorrow but does it sound like a coilpack is on it's way out? Haven't noticed an eggy smell but they haven't been changed for a long time.
kineticz
02-02-2010, 17:34
Well I found my answer, finally went tonight, not coilpack(s), it was the MAF lol
Car jerked as I was driving and then a fault code came up, mpg is aweful, ordering a new one and I'm sure it will run a million times better.
Are you 100% sure? the egg smell is the electrics frying in the coil pack, and the Maf just dies no smell, also the symptoms you describe could all be coil related.
kineticz
17-02-2010, 13:57
Are you 100% sure? the egg smell is the electrics frying in the coil pack, and the Maf just dies no smell, also the symptoms you describe could all be coil related.
Well, the MAF had died as it came up on the ECU, so changed that and it ran well, BUT it wasn't holding boost and mpg was still shite.
It is only yesterday I got the egg smell
Makam pete
27-02-2010, 20:56
yep my coilpack went a month ago, was no2. asked the Seat techs if others normally follow suit and they said no. just replace when you need to so hopefully won't have any more probs for a while
VIKINGODIN
27-02-2010, 22:58
1 of mine went so i changed all 4 about 5 months ago,they are ****ed again,so annoying,i did put them in over shot spark plugs though,does anyone know if that would have contributed to them going again so soon?:confused:
lukecupra2001
27-02-2010, 23:39
Anybody got plugs from TPS and can confirm they come with a warrenty?
1 maybe 2 of mine went today so im going to do all 4 but dont realy want them to die again so something with warrenty would be good:D
Mind you saying that ive had me car 5 years in July and never had 1 fail, untill i opened me big mouth at a RR day this afty:doh: :ban:
gezmeister
28-02-2010, 02:58
Anybody got plugs from TPS and can confirm they come with a warrenty?
1 maybe 2 of mine went today so im going to do all 4 but dont realy want them to die again so something with warrenty would be good:D
Mind you saying that ive had me car 5 years in July and never had 1 fail, untill i opened me big mouth at a RR day this afty:doh: :ban:
Think you'd know about it if 1 went, let alone 2. When 1 went on mine, the misfire was terrible. Couldn't even drive the damn car, it was that unresponsive
1 of mine went so i changed all 4 about 5 months ago,they are ****ed again,so annoying,i did put them in over shot spark plugs though,does anyone know if that would have contributed to them going again so soon?:confused:
Had my car nearly two years and not had to change any coil packs.
m.r.davies
28-02-2010, 07:34
yep my coilpack went a month ago, was no2. asked the Seat techs if others normally follow suit and they said no. just replace when you need to so hopefully won't have any more probs for a while
After the first one went, it was three months before I had replaced all 4
I always carried a spare, so changing was easy
if you can afford it, replace all 4 at same time, for the hassle factor
if not replace 2 on the right (passenger side) as they are the hardest to get too and require taking a bracket off that sits on top of them
The remaining 2 are very easy to access and can be done in under 10 mins with a big flat headed screw driver
I got the official vag parts from GSF as it was cheaper, and they said they were no longer doing their aftermarket version of that part, but not sure how true that is?
The car was on the original coil packs and lasted 60k miles over 6 years
Also fuel econemy is VERY bad so carryng a spare is wise as you'll use loads of fuel jet to get to GSF
lukecupra2001
28-02-2010, 10:56
Think you'd know about it if 1 went, let alone 2. When 1 went on mine, the misfire was terrible. Couldn't even drive the damn car, it was that unresponsive
i do know that it went thats why i said 1 maybe 2 went.sonded like a 1litre corsa running on 3!
i do know that it went thats why i said 1 maybe 2 went.sonded like a 1litre corsa running on 3!
The 1 litre corsa is a 3 cylinder ;) :roflmao:
lukecupra2001
28-02-2010, 13:38
an thats what mine was on, sounded like a little boy racer with a cannon on the back of the above mentioned corsa:lol:
Luke20vT
13-04-2010, 11:27
I've just brought my Cupra and the seller told me it needs a new coilpack, obviously they are known for going on a regular basis, the car is still running absolutely fine but the engine management light is on thats all.
Luke.
adam cupra 20vt
13-04-2010, 11:35
I've just brought my Cupra and the seller told me it needs a new coilpack, obviously they are known for going on a regular basis, the car is still running absolutely fine but the engine management light is on thats all.
Luke.
You sure its a coilpack then? it won't run very well if a coilpack has gone.
Mine just went this mornin i think! on the way to work no power engine light flashing rough idle and drive almost felt like it was going to stall if i didnt keep the revs up, Im guessing this is a coil pack, will be replacing all 4, does a fault code show on Vagcom when one has gone??
heading out tonight and im getting the exact symtoms as you. sounds like its struggling to idle, really loud setting off, etc.. is this coilpacks? :confused:
dead beta
20-04-2010, 15:01
Found this thread very useful, thanks.
During this evening's joyride another one of mine coilpack went dead. I must say that car behaved a bit different than last time. I hope its a coilpack :P. 16684 and 16685 fault codes.
jimbomiller
30-05-2010, 10:52
Thinking mine will need replacing VERY soon...
illusion
11-06-2010, 09:38
I need to replace a coilpack on my Mk1 but am struggling to find the correct type. Looking at Euro Carparts it tells me I have an AJQ engine and I don't seem to be able to find anybody to supply me one for my specific engine type.
Anybody got any ideas or am I going to have to go to the main stealer?
Do you mean AUQ the 180 bhp Leon.
illusion
11-06-2010, 09:49
Do you mean AUQ the 180 bhp Leon.
It is a 180bhp 1.8T but the engine code is defo coming up as AJQ.
Well, it's wrong it's an AUQ.
illusion
11-06-2010, 10:00
Well, it's wrong it's an AUQ.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p134/illusion2805/Capture.jpg
Why are you so sure this is wrong? The code you quote AHQ is also in the parts listing but so is the one these guys are telling me?
A leon cupra 180 is AUQ i know because i have one.
Look on the sticker by your spare wheel should say there or in your manual.
Also on the engine some where, there is a tab, can't recall where though.
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=211183&highlight=auq+tab
illusion
11-06-2010, 10:16
A leon cupra 180 is AUQ i know because i have one.
Look on the sticker by your spare wheel should say there or in your manual.
Also on the engine some where, there is a tab, can't recall where though.
These are all the available engine code types for this engine and cars that it is fitted to. You have one type AUQ, I have a different one AJQ.
132 kW (179 PS; 177 bhp) @ 5,500 rpm; 235 N·m (173 ft·lbf) @ 1,950-5,000 rpm — AJQ, APP, ARY, ATC, AUQ, AWP, BEK, BNU (North America only)
Volkswagen Golf Mk4 GTI, VW Bora/Jetta, New Beetle, Audi A3, Audi A4, Audi TT Mk1 (8N), Škoda Octavia vRS, SEAT León, SEAT Toledo.
This is all irrelevant anyway as I still don't know where to get coil packs for my variant the AJQ.
Found this
http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showpost.php?p=372185&postcount=12
Why it's a different code i don't know but i'm sure the coil packs are the same.
Arent they same really ?
The spec is the same as my AUQ same bhp/torque.
AJQ as the K03 where as the AUQ as the KO3s according to this http://www.qpeng.com/faqs/engine_faqs/all_these_engine_codes_can_you_explain_what_they_mean.html
The coil packs are the same.
VIKINGODIN
11-06-2010, 15:16
ww.vehicle-electrics-online.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=&product_id=8385&category_id=488&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=35&vmcchk=1&Itemid=35
put another w at beginning
illusion
11-06-2010, 15:45
Thanks for your help chaps :)
I couldn't find this to save my life VIKINGODIN.
Interesting read on the second link there about the KO3 & KO3s Lee. Thought there would be some difference but was not sure what.
First off, thanks to the creators of this thread, you’ve no doubt just saved me a bit of money taking the car to the dealers after getting all the symptoms described here.
I ordered 4 replacement packs, just fitted them. Only took about 25 minutes, well would have done if the originals on the car were screw in types, they were push fit. So after rummaging through the shed for 10 minutes I found 8 bolts to do the job.
Test drive was fine, car is running silky smooth, but the engine light is still on, (but no longer flashing), and the ‘service’ message now appears on the dashboard. Does anyone have any comments about that?
First off, thanks to the creators of this thread, you’ve no doubt just saved me a bit of money taking the car to the dealers after getting all the symptoms described here.
I ordered 4 replacement packs, just fitted them. Only took about 25 minutes, well would have done if the originals on the car were screw in types, they were push fit. So after rummaging through the shed for 10 minutes I found 8 bolts to do the job.
Test drive was fine, car is running silky smooth, but the engine light is still on, (but no longer flashing), and the ‘service’ message now appears on the dashboard. Does anyone have any comments about that?
Firstly your welcome,:D and secondly regarding the dash light it may go out but you best bet is to get the car on Vag-com and get it switched off, the service message can be turned of but i cant remember how to do it, try looking on the forum through the search .
VIKINGODIN
17-06-2010, 16:20
First off, thanks to the creators of this thread, you’ve no doubt just saved me a bit of money taking the car to the dealers after getting all the symptoms described here.
I ordered 4 replacement packs, just fitted them. Only took about 25 minutes, well would have done if the originals on the car were screw in types, they were push fit. So after rummaging through the shed for 10 minutes I found 8 bolts to do the job.
Test drive was fine, car is running silky smooth, but the engine light is still on, (but no longer flashing), and the ‘service’ message now appears on the dashboard. Does anyone have any comments about that?
It says in your handbook how to switch service light off,I think you hold button in and at same time turn ignition on but not engine for about 30 secs then turn it all off,the engine check light will prob go out if you unhook the negative terminal on your battery for 20 or 30 mins,make sure you have radio code though ok,it will prob cost 20 to 30 quid at a garage to get it turned off and for 300 bucks you can buy your own fault code reader with light extinguishing capabilities.
Hi
Just joined this forum and got some pretty good advice so far.
I've had a problem also with these ligfhts on the dash, mainly the engine management, it used to be on all the time and then a cpl of days ago it started to run like a bag of spanners so I thought coil pack had given up but did not smell anything at all. I bought 1 coil and replaced each old coil with the new one, cylinder 2 was the culprit and sounds like it was before but now the light is flashing all the time instead of constantly on? Airbag light is also lit, would this be the cause of the other light or 2 seperate problems??
cheers
Your best bet would be to find someone with vag-com and see what if any faults are listed, where abouts are you?
Hi mate,
I have posted on the vag com thread for help with sum1 who has the kit to diagnose the fault, just seems strange that its now flashing? Drove to work this morning and was smooth, no problems at all. I am in Warrington mate.
Hi,
I had a revo re-map (Stage 1) done recently on my 1.8T (180) and since then the car is hesitating in spots when accelerating.
I had the switch too so have since switched it back to stock mode, but notice it is still doing this, though to lower degree. There are no smells or warning lights on dash board (apart from service light as its due its' annual 5 year service).
Another thing is I have the Forge 007 dump value since 4 years no evident probs, then recently had to checked by a guy at Forge on a hot day do you think when he put it back it could be sticking or if not put back correctly?
Now my problem is it is booked to go to a SEAT dealer for its service soon and a cambelt change, have mentioned these hesitation probs. to them too.
I have 3 options what to do regards this problem :
1. Take it to people who re-mapped it (Revo HQ), who say they will diagnose it for free but have no parts facility should it need any parts eg coils, Air mass meters etc they suggested maybe take it to another revo dealer that has parts, servicing
2. Take it to specialist independant revo dealer with servicing facilities but they would charge for diagnosis alone- but would not charge if I had servicing, cambelt service etc cost is the same as Seat dealers with the addition of them changing the water pump too (although it doesn't need it atm)
3. Take it to Seat -said they will do diagnosis for free as part of service which is booked and cambelt
My initial thoughts are take it to revo to get it diagnosed -just to know what it is? then after knowing what it is decide where to get it done independant specialist garage or a Seat dealer.
Also as car is out of warranty how important is it where you get your cambelt done?
I recently had my excessive pollution light come on and the car lost some power. After reading through this thread it definitely seemed like I had a failed coilpack. I diagnosed it to cylinder 2 using VCDS. So I bought a new pack and fitted it. No problems, seemed back to normal.
Today I was on the motorway and when accelerating above 4000 revs, the car was juddering (as mentioned in this thread). I got home and VCDS gave fault codes 16684 (random multiple misfire) and 16686 (cylinder 2 misfire). Strange I thought... so I swapped packs 1 and 2 and went for a test drive and everything seemed back to normal - no more fault codes. I was expecting maybe cylinder 1 misfire if the new pack was faulty? An inspection of all 4 plugs indicated they were working fine.
Anyone got any suggestions? should I just monitor things for now, or should I be replacing the plugs too?
waftywoo
23-07-2010, 21:32
im getting a bit of stuttering when putting small amounts of throttle on when cold. its fine when warm. from what ive read this doesnt sound quite like coil packs.
what you guys think?
I get exactly the same. Is this coilpacks?
Had a coilpack go yesterday afternoon -cylinder3,dash light came on, had a cpl of spares in boot so changed at roadside no probs.Got home put it on VAG-COM and told me multiple misfires and cylinder 3 failure.Wiped codes and all was fine.Today we went out in car and,it just doesnt feel right,as though a coilpack has gone but not as severe,just crappy slight jerky running,theres no light on and checking vag-com no fault codes.Does this sound like another is about to go?
Also thought it could be maf related so disconnected maf,how should the car react? the engine stayed the same as though it didnt make a difference,is that maf dead or dying?
The car should improve with the maf disconnected, if the maf is suspected of being faulty.
Had a quick look through and used search but couldnt find my problem (please redirect me if ive missed it)
My car only gets used twice a week so i started it up tonight to go out.She always starts first time but the last couple of times it rev's up to 1500 rpm ...stutters abit (between 5-10 secs) then settels down to just above 1000rpm(cold start ?) untill warm.Now it drives fine no prob's there...just wondered if this a earlly sign of a coil pack going ? (80,000 mile service due in 600miles) It had new plugs 2000 miles ago.
Any ideas would be cool.Thanks
Ok a small question - it would seem my coilpacks may be an issue but under closer inspection the wiring going to the packs is massively degraded 1 cable out of the conector going to one of the coilpacks is broken - how easy is it to replace the cables as i am sure that the others will follow suit soon. and does anyone know the part numbers for the cables and where they actually connect to at the other end?
i re done my coil pack wiring and it hasnt broke one since.... totch wood
cupraslayer
05-10-2010, 19:18
Few questions
I have the juddering, burning and egg smell, but also have ecu light flashing
car is done 55. And not had issue before
does it sound like coil pack?
If so are there any guides to replacing
and what are the aftermarket ones like ... Cost too if poss
anyone know gsf prices?
Def the coil packs. That's what mine did. When you put it under load can you feel it judder?
Prices from gsf are ......( as above ) £25 plus vat each :)
VIKINGODIN
06-10-2010, 15:30
Had a quick look through and used search but couldnt find my problem (please redirect me if ive missed it)
My car only gets used twice a week so i started it up tonight to go out.She always starts first time but the last couple of times it rev's up to 1500 rpm ...stutters abit (between 5-10 secs) then settels down to just above 1000rpm(cold start ?) untill warm.Now it drives fine no prob's there...just wondered if this a earlly sign of a coil pack going ? (80,000 mile service due in 600miles) It had new plugs 2000 miles ago.
Any ideas would be cool.Thanks
Hi,mines always done that and I was led to believe its an auto choke warming the cat converter up so it better at dealing with exhaust pollution quicker.
adam cupra 20vt
06-10-2010, 15:32
Hi,mines always done that and I was led to believe its an auto choke warming the cat converter up so it better at dealing with exhaust pollution quicker.
That is correct :)
neeticupra
11-10-2010, 12:18
Hi this is a very interesting topic and some brilliant posts by you guys, helped me in a million ways and appreciate it.
mate, everything vikingdin has written about his car not running right and not going above 120mph is the same as my car and that it judders etc, mine is doing the exact same, im not sure whether to change the plugs and all the coils as i changed the 3 of the coils earlier this year some time, or just to change the last remaining coil that i havent changed, should i even bother changing the plugs?
i wa salso asked by euro car part whether i would want the coil pack leads, what are the chances that could be my problem?
neeticupra
11-10-2010, 12:22
by the way its a leon 1.8 20v t cupra, 2003
This evening I nipped out to Sainsburys and at one point noticed a slight eggy smell, which went away again after a few seconds. My car does sound a bit like a boxer engine at low revs altho I kinda put this down to having a big Jetex cone filter and this just being how it makes the engine sound.
Thing is it seems to be running fine from what I can make out it idles just fine and no juddering or hesitancy except a tiny bit when starting from very cold. Do coilpacks fail gradually or "just go"? I had new spark plugs put in about 3 or 4 weeks ago so I guess they're ok.
cupra r, ash
20-11-2010, 13:31
Hi. Drivin my car this mornin and was hesitatng. No leaks of what i can see. Coilpack? Its boosts to 1 bar then backs off. Im thinkin coilpack but its not spluttering or anything like that. Myt be 1 on its way out but not gon completely?
has the cars power gone down ?? e.g. when you put ure foot down does it go like what it did ? or isit slower if so then it is definatly the coil :)
fcuknafe
04-12-2010, 17:28
got a revo stage 1 map today about 30mins after it one of my coils has give up :( and its sunday tomorro so there's no where open ... bad time!
GreigAKAHendo
13-12-2010, 08:03
this is the most useful thread i have ever come across defo think my coilpacks have gone now juddering rough idel warning light flashing on the dash off to get some new ones today me thinks :D
Just wondering if my coil packs are about to go. Around 1800 - 2200 rpm there is a slight judder / drop in power as I accelerate. It does not seem to make any difference if I boot it not, most of the time I am driving normally around town when it happens.
Also my diagnostics / emissions light came on today too, not sure if it related.
VIKINGODIN
21-03-2011, 12:42
Just wondering if my coil packs are about to go. Around 1800 - 2200 rpm there is a slight judder / drop in power as I accelerate. It does not seem to make any difference if I boot it not, most of the time I am driving normally around town when it happens.
Also my diagnostics / emissions light came on today too, not sure if it related.
I have always had that drop in power at same revs as you,had when standard and still now when re mapped,dunno what it is,maybe turbo stall,I have changed all my coils so dunno.Maybe lazy MAF?
Hi Guys,
First post here (Been trying to post for over an hour maybe im just stupid!!!)...
Anyway long thing short. I have remapped my 03 Leon cupra 180bhp 68k yesterday at AmD.
As im driving home noticed the car jerks between 3-3.5k revs (40 miles round trip). Dont think its the remap as I read good reviews about them but wondering what it could be?
If i drive it below 3k revs its fine. I have been told by AmD to take it back if it persists. I was thinking it could be the coilpack as read that they gone after remap bit thats just a guess.
This is my first turbo and remap. Plus money is a bit tight at the moment so cant really afford trail and error.
Any help would be much appreciated,
Thanks.
Seems the judder is reducing??? Guess the car is adapting to new map. Anyway the car just is flying... Really happy with map just hope the judder disappears totally. Def recommend remap from AmD!!! Loving it!
Went to AmD today. Shaun was great sorted out the jerking came up as coilpack on vag com. Also I changed the boost setting. Initally I think it was set for 2.5k approx revs and delivered fairly hard n strong was very fast very quick but it wasnt suitedfor central London rush hour driving. Nway Shaun has now set the boost to start at 1.5k revs and delivers all throughout the rev range. I requested it to be set like that as it suits my needs. Nway rrally happy with the product by more importantly the service. Exactly why I choose Amd. Good reputation and great product. If u thinking of a remap go to someone like Amd or similar because if something goes wrong then you know they will help you sort it out. Nway love driving my car really fun now!!!
i thinking i getting the same problem. when the car in neutral & i rev it up it sounds likes it missing & dnt fully rev up..also when driving along & giving it a bit of beans it seem to cough n splutter when in boost range but when its gets to about 5k it pulls right till 7k..is this a coil packs/spark plug failure?
Could be. Is your Check Engine Light on? Can you get the car checked for fault codes with a scanner or VAGCOM?
Stuart_cupra
06-09-2011, 18:15
my missus is currently driving home on m23 and she just phoned to say its really jerky and if she tries to go over 60mph it gets really bad, am guessing this could be the sign of the coilpacks going? She has to go back there at 5am tomorrow so no chance of getting it fixed unless the AA carry them, which i think they used to..
Stuart_cupra
06-09-2011, 18:16
oh and she also had engine light flashing for a bit, but its now gone off
Could be. Is your Check Engine Light on? Can you get the car checked for fault codes with a scanner or VAGCOM?
no light aient on
jimmyb1985
09-09-2011, 17:28
noticed a few people having spluttering at 5000rpm+ so am i! :( i just read a thread on some other site and they said that the inlet pipe maybe collapsing at high revs, it really does make sense to me.
ummm where about is that then?
jimmyb1985
09-09-2011, 18:00
http ://forums. vwvortex. com/showthread.php?5016568-I-need-help-i-cant-rev-past-5k-rpm-1.8t-please-read&p=68407414#post68407414
Theres the thread, its the turbo inlet pipe (what goes to airbox) i know it aint on a seat leon but its basically the same problem i have at the moment, i will let you know more when i get one and fit it, but like i say mine is spluttering just before 5000rpm upwards. if i take my foot off the power then put it back on everything is fine, i thought it was a coilpack or maf at 1st but ive swapped all those parts, and my google search found this so a samco tip is my next thing :) ps you need to remove the spaces for link to work ;)
jimmyb1985
10-09-2011, 14:58
you have to take the spaces out inbetween the first few words, it wont let me post it because i havent posted more than 15 times yet.
Gnollins
14-09-2011, 10:04
Great thread!
My LCR has done 108K miles - this morning it started seriously hesistating under acceleration and the idle is very rough. Seems OK when cruising at constant speed though.
I'm assuming this is classic coil pack failure symptoms?
sounds like it boss.
Have the car idling... pull the plug out the back of the injector rail, one injector at a time... if the car nearly dies or stalls that coilpack works. plug back in. move on to the next one.
if you unplug the injector plug, and nothing happens.... that coilpack is dead :)
Gnollins
14-09-2011, 11:10
sounds like it boss.
Have the car idling... pull the plug out the back of the injector rail, one injector at a time... if the car nearly dies or stalls that coilpack works. plug back in. move on to the next one.
if you unplug the injector plug, and nothing happens.... that coilpack is dead :)
Nice one - will do this at lunch time :)
Gnollins
14-09-2011, 12:33
Nice one - will do this at lunch time :)
Anyone know the part number for latest revision of the LCR coil pack?
Gnollins
14-09-2011, 15:21
Fixed :D
Went to VW stealer and asked for 06B 905 115 R.
Parts manager said the number had changed (but didn't say what the new number was, and I forgot to ask :redface: ).
£29 + VAT, I bought 4.
Luckily a work colleague has VagCom so we hooked it up and found cylinder 2 misfire - luckily one of the 2 easy to access coils. Changed that for now and will swap the other 3 at the weekend.
Gave it a good revving and a short burst - smooth as silk.
So, another instance where this forum saved me lots of time, hassle and money!
:)
nice one :)
makes you feel better when you can fix your own car and not pay the dealer for it doesnt it... the vagcom scan would have been £40 on its own!
Gnollins
14-09-2011, 15:38
Yeah, I'm not great with cars so always gives me a great sense of achievement when I fix something myself!
:)
im the same pal, but after being on here for a while, im going to try more things :)
like my FMIC (when i get it) etc.
but remember that coilpack test if you dont have vagcom ;)
Gnollins
14-09-2011, 15:47
Yeah, was gonna do the "test" but I mentioned VAGCOM at work and someone popped their head up and said "I've got it"! ;-)
I've attempted all sorts of stuff with my LCR after reading this forum. Had the car for over 5 years now so there's been plenty of opportunity to get stuck in :)
im up to a year of ownership so i will be playing soon (after the MOT)
Gnollins
16-09-2011, 16:43
Just for info the up-to-date part number for LCR coil-pack is:
W06A 905 115 D
Hello, I am currently looking for the coilpack part number... The one I removed is 06B 905 115 L, I know that the previous post mentions the newer version, but my seat is not a Cupra R, it is the 1.8T standard Leon... Do they carry the same coilpacks?
Thanks!!
Miatex
james_cupra
04-12-2011, 13:38
Hi everyone, just read through this thread, very helpful so thanks for that! I too are getting these symptoms. rough idle when starting cold, juddering higher up in the revs, EML flashing, and the backfires. Last week i had a vagcom done and it showed that cylinder 1 was to blame. so i changed that coil and the problem still occurs. After reading this thread i went out side and started the car from cold, and unplugged each plug 1 by 1, and all of them changed the engine tone, i also noticed when i started the car it seemed to be idling fine, suggesting one is on its way out and maybe being a little temperamental just now? yesterdays cold start the idle was terrible and chose not to drive it but todays seemed fine?
any help appreciated! James
Hi everyone, just read through this thread, very helpful so thanks for that! I too are getting these symptoms. rough idle when starting cold, juddering higher up in the revs, EML flashing, and the backfires. Last week i had a vagcom done and it showed that cylinder 1 was to blame. so i changed that coil and the problem still occurs. After reading this thread i went out side and started the car from cold, and unplugged each plug 1 by 1, and all of them changed the engine tone, i also noticed when i started the car it seemed to be idling fine, suggesting one is on its way out and maybe being a little temperamental just now? yesterdays cold start the idle was terrible and chose not to drive it but todays seemed fine?
any help appreciated! James
I changed all the coilpacks, and still the idle was not right, it turned out that additionally from the coilpacks being gone (Lack of power was the main symptom), I had some vaccuum lines broken, this was fixed and now the idle is great..
Hope this helps!!
miatex
barrym381
09-12-2011, 21:40
my leon cupra is going to the stealers to have the coil packs replaced for free :D
robertbadlad
18-12-2011, 17:10
is there an upgraded coil pack i can get for my lcr?
Cupra555fire
19-12-2011, 15:50
Did the same went to the Steelers last week and had 4 fitted for free. Seat product recall on Coil Packs it's worth a phone call
Black magic 03 LC, Custom code ph1, LCR alloys, Koni fsd, Eibach pro springs, Green filter, 007p, THS dbm, fabia wiper, LCR splitter, 4300k hids, spacers 10-15
nally270lb,TQE
22-12-2011, 13:26
great thread here took a while to find. already posted elsewhere long time members must be sick of newbies like me posting same old stuff. i got the burnt egg smell too however some people seem to be able to drive thir car. i dont have any power and when idling it is almost like its going to stall. hopefully its only one gone as my local parts dealer only has one left and and i have long drive tomo.
barrym381
22-12-2011, 13:28
great thread here took a while to find. already posted elsewhere long time members must be sick of newbies like me posting same old stuff. i got the burnt egg smell too however some people seem to be able to drive thir car. i dont have any power and when idling it is almost like its going to stall. hopefully its only one gone as my local parts dealer only has one left and and i have long drive tomo.
check with the dealer to see if your car is due the coil-packs under re-call before u spend any cash on it:)
gaterpotata
21-01-2012, 17:30
i have got the same problems as phillc dodgy spluttering and that eggy smell so after reading all you answers im convinced that it is the coil pack are they hard to change and where can i get such a part from?? any help would be great thanks
gaterpotata
22-01-2012, 13:02
i have changed the broken in half coil pack but its still running rough and now the engine management light has come on what else could cause this spluttering and the light to come on????
definitely give the dealer a call to check if the service recall/bulletin for replacement coils includes your car - as far as I can gather it's only 132kw engines that haven't been recalled before. I've recently had 4 shiny new ones in my VRS octavia :D
clarky_gtr
28-01-2012, 12:13
i have a terrible flat spot between 1500-2500 rpm when cold and even sometimes when warm. Anyone else had this issue and found it to be coilpacks?
if not im guessing maf?
coilpack issues will show under load as a distinct misfire, either at the point of peak torque/boost where cylinder pressures are highest or at higher rpm with boost. It's unlikely to be coilpacks if you just get a flat spot that low down. Try driving it with the MAF disconnected, if it's improved then there's a faitr chance the blame lies with MAF
clarky_gtr
28-01-2012, 16:44
i'll give that a try, thanks
tlewis14
04-02-2012, 11:07
i seem to have a similar problem with mine, took it out for a spin last night and found the car to 'splutter' at around 3k revs, giving it some welly to find if problem persisted and got the same issue in the same rev range and the engine management light started flashing so immediately pulled over and turned off. re-started after 5mins light hasnt come back on but issue persists, only had car a few days havent got a clue about seats, always been into vauxhalls. looking through the forums a couple of people have had same issue and seemed to be coil packs, fingers crossed its that simple!! spare one was given with car when bought but havnt had a look under bonnet to find where it goes so need as much help as possible to sort this as now im shi*ing myself at the moment.
tlewis14
04-02-2012, 11:23
exactly the same issue with mine, with me it seems to start to splutter when i hit 3k revs. anything under is fine. im praying its something as simple as coil packs. any luck with yours?
Both sound like Coils to me, if the car is fine under low revs but splutters under load, if you can get someone to put it on vag-com it should tell you which cylinder it is. If you can replace all four as when ones goes others normally follow.
tlewis14
04-02-2012, 11:46
cheers for the reply phil, like i said ive got a supposed new spare given with car, someone mentioned pulling one out at a time to find the faulty one, seen the ones on ebay £88 for four with lifetime warranty?? has changing the coil packs on yours sorted it? also silly question... as im new to this whats vag-com? im assuming diagnostic machine?
tlewis - agreed yours sounds exactly like coilpack.
Please don't use aftermarket replacement packs, no matter how cheap they are or how many decades warranty they claim to offer! Oh, and always keep at least one spare in the boot, if a coilpack packs up completely it makes the car almost undriveable and you're pretty much stranded. Also be aware you need a 10mm spanner and 5mm allen key to get number 4 pack out, there's a vacuum vessel and bracket that have to be removed to access #4 coil.
tlewis14
04-02-2012, 13:42
tlewis - agreed yours sounds exactly like coilpack.
Please don't use aftermarket replacement packs, no matter how cheap they are or how many decades warranty they claim to offer! Oh, and always keep at least one spare in the boot, if a coilpack packs up completely it makes the car almost undriveable and you're pretty much stranded. Also be aware you need a 10mm spanner and 5mm allen key to get number 4 pack out, there's a vacuum vessel and bracket that have to be removed to access #4 coil.
thanks for the response, makes abit easier to deal with if its cheaper than say a new turbo :rofl: ive a local VW garage in which im in the process of talking to, any other suggestions on what to get and where from as im clueless.:confused:
cheers for the reply phil, like i said Ive got a supposed new spare given with car, someone mentioned pulling one out at a time to find the faulty one, seen the ones on ebay £88 for four with lifetime warranty?? has changing the coil packs on yours sorted it? also silly question... as i'm new to this whats vag-com? i'm assuming diagnostic machine?
Yeah all sorted now, and yes Vag-com is a diagnostic program, the problem with pulling the coils one at a time is if its only playing up under load that wont work.
tlewis14
04-02-2012, 13:58
Yeah all sorted now, and yes Vag-com is a diagnostic program, the problem with pulling the coils one at a time is if its only playing up under load that wont work.
would you recommend getting 4 new ones as apposed to changing one at a time? is there any better longer lasting ones out there, where mines been chipped to 275+bhp im thinking of changing things that through a fault after chipping, may be costly at first but gets it out of the way, thinking after coil packs to have a go at the MAF meter. a few issues to deal with after i had it serviced yesterday guys picked up on a few bits that need doing, im not a stranger to mechanics so will check before i get work done, hardest thing to find will be an oil leak coming from somewhere, seems to be deeper and further behind oil filter as fresh oil on under car shield.
I bought four new ones when mine went, it is usual for them to go after mapping as it puts extra strain on everything so anything that is not quite 100% is likley to fail or start to, the newer coils are better now have a search there is a thread some where with the new part numbers.
Latest "D" revision 1.8T coils - 06A 905 115 D - are supposed to be reliable now. However another alternative is 2.0 TFSi coils - 07K 905 715 F - which are reputedly better. We have been using them in our race car this season at 400+bhp and gaps of 1.0mm with no problem. There is no way 1.8T ones have come close previously. Be aware though that these are about 15mm taller than 1.8T ones, so arrangement needs top be made to locate them in the cam cover. There are companies offering spacers which bolt to the cover, alternatively cut the rubber seal portion from some old coils and slide onto the longer TFSi ones.
Go to Awesome GTI, they do a set of four for under £90. Cheaper than the stealers and they look nicer too as they have a red border round the black cap.
Pretty sure they're newer than the D revision too, I'll check the part number (they are OEM VAG parts) tomorrow when working on my car.
Go to Awesome GTI, they do a set of four for under £90. Cheaper than the stealers and they look nicer too as they have a red border round the black cap.
Pretty sure they're newer than the D revision too, I'll check the part number (they are OEM VAG parts) tomorrow when working on my car.
Keep me posted if they are mate mine went tonight :( so after a new set and had already seen them on awesome and heard there better. Cheers
tlewis14
05-02-2012, 00:01
Go to Awesome GTI, they do a set of four for under £90. Cheaper than the stealers and they look nicer too as they have a red border round the black cap.
Pretty sure they're newer than the D revision too, I'll check the part number (they are OEM VAG parts) tomorrow when working on my car.
that would be tidy if you could mate, just had a look on tint' on A-gti and they look pretty cool in red, sounds good being OE quality but they need to be good as i dont want to be replacing them every week!! :cry: if they check out and you say they are cool il get a set, mays well get a complete spare set at the same time.
Keep me posted if they are mate mine went tonight :( so after a new set and had already seen them on awesome and heard there better. Cheers
that would be tidy if you could mate, just had a look on tint' on A-gti and they look pretty cool in red, sounds good being OE quality but they need to be good as i dont want to be replacing them every week!! :cry: if they check out and you say they are cool il get a set, mays well get a complete spare set at the same time.
The Awesome GTI ones I got have VAG part number 06C 905 115M. If you did have one go pop after a year just get in touch with Awesome GTI, they will be under warranty.
tlewis14
06-02-2012, 22:06
The Awesome GTI ones I got have VAG part number 06C 905 115M. If you did have one go pop after a year just get in touch with Awesome GTI, they will be under warranty.
had a look on A-GTI and wont supply part number on item, are these any better than the bosch standard originals? still cant believe GMF quoted me £32 inc VAT each!! robbing bas**rds!!
:lol:
if these are guaranteed to fit my car and are better than originals then il buy straight away. they also don't mention anything about any warranty on them, only a returns policy.
tlewis14
06-02-2012, 22:12
had a look on A-GTI and wont supply part number on item, are these any better than the bosch standard originals? still cant believe GMF quoted me £32 inc VAT each!! robbing bas**rds!!
:lol:
if these are guaranteed to fit my car and are better than originals then il buy straight away. they also don't mention anything about any warranty on them, only a returns policy.
any ideas on how to get the clock display to stay up permanently in place of mpg? by the sounds of things mines the only one made without a rattle in the dash:confused:
im trying my best to warm up, cool down........ but for how long each time? its never consistant at the moment, i usually count to 20:)
Well that's the part number on the ones I got, I guess they could get slightly different revisions if they're buying them in batches. Did you call them to ask? End of the day, if they don't fit your car you can send em back, you have certain rights when buying stuff online.
As for being better than originals, I guess if you had the very first version coilpacks in your car and changed to the latest ones you might notice an improvement in throttle response and idle stability but in general they either work or they don't that's it.
The display in the rev counter should always show whatever it was set to when the engine was switched off. The only exception is if the outside air temp is below 5C it will automatically pop up the temp display, but if you hit either button on the end of the wiper stalk it'll revert to what it was last set to.
Warming up - count to 20 whats, minutes? That should do it, maybe 15 in warmer weather. Cooling down, if you've been giving it some stick then let the car idle for a minute or two before shutdown, or take the last mile or so at low rpm and stay off boost.
"D" version 06A 905 115 D standard coils will be as good as any you will get, unless you use 2.0 TFSi ones which will give the option of reliably running larger gaps.
Try TPS for a decent price http://www.thetradepartsspecialists.co.uk/
tlewis14
06-02-2012, 23:34
Well that's the part number on the ones I got, I guess they could get slightly different revisions if they're buying them in batches. Did you call them to ask? End of the day, if they don't fit your car you can send em back, you have certain rights when buying stuff online.
As for being better than originals, I guess if you had the very first version coilpacks in your car and changed to the latest ones you might notice an improvement in throttle response and idle stability but in general they either work or they don't that's it.
The display in the rev counter should always show whatever it was set to when the engine was switched off. The only exception is if the outside air temp is below 5C it will automatically pop up the temp display, but if you hit either button on the end of the wiper stalk it'll revert to what it was last set to.
Warming up - count to 20 whats, minutes? That should do it, maybe 15 in warmer weather. Cooling down, if you've been giving it some stick then let the car idle for a minute or two before shutdown, or take the last mile or so at low rpm and stay off boost.
i see what you mean, haven't tried phoning yet, haven't had time, but i will the next chance i get. ive tried something i read on a thread somewhere about taking one coil pack out at a time whilst engine running to see if there was one that doesn't effect engine idle, all changed idle when i tried it, so guessing that applies to a coil pack that has completely gone? that makes sense because since ive had car after buying it its been below 5degrees. yea :happy: i meant 20 seconds, i do normally take it easy when nearing home, just need to let it cool down for longer then. thanks for your response.
tlewis14
06-02-2012, 23:43
[QUOTE=rsrich;3790369]"D" version 06A 905 115 D standard coils will be as good as any you will get, unless you use 2.0 TFSi ones which will give the option of reliably running larger gaps.
will check these out, need some asap, but not settling for cheap and nasty if it means i get on the road 100% quicker. its killing me not being able to use any boost at all for the moment only letting me get to 3k revs before it starts playing up, ideal for fuel consumption! :rofl:
"D" version 06A 905 115 D standard coils will be as good as any you will get, unless you use 2.0 TFSi ones which will give the option of reliably running larger gaps.
Try TPS for a decent price http://www.thetradepartsspecialists.co.uk/
I thought the D versions were included in the exchange programme?
i see what you mean, haven't tried phoning yet, haven't had time, but i will the next chance i get. ive tried something i read on a thread somewhere about taking one coil pack out at a time whilst engine running to see if there was one that doesn't effect engine idle, all changed idle when i tried it, so guessing that applies to a coil pack that has completely gone? that makes sense because since ive had car after buying it its been below 5degrees. yea :happy: i meant 20 seconds, i do normally take it easy when nearing home, just need to let it cool down for longer then. thanks for your response.
20 seconds - seriously? The car won't have even started to get warm in that time, 15 or 20 minutes minimum. Stay below about 2500rpm for the first 15 mins before giving it any boost.
tlewis14
07-02-2012, 00:28
I thought the D versions were included in the exchange programme?
20 seconds - seriously? The car won't have even started to get warm in that time, 15 or 20 minutes minimum. Stay below about 2500rpm for the first 15 mins before giving it any boost.
i meant 20 seconds before i pull off :) yea i dont rag cars cold, usualy wait until engine temp has got to optimum temp, 90degrees.
I ordered the coilpacks from awesome gti today. You get a years warrenty on them and at £83.99 a set I don't think thats too bad considering my friend paid £35 to replace one. Often if you only replace one the others follow soon after so better to buy a set and keep the three that work as spares. Put one with your tools in the boot as you never know when they will go and it's a common fault.
tlewis14
07-02-2012, 01:39
I ordered the coilpacks from awesome gti today. You get a years warrenty on them and at £83.99 a set I don't think thats too bad considering my friend paid £35 to replace one. Often if you only replace one the others follow soon after so better to buy a set and keep the three that work as spares. Put one with your tools in the boot as you never know when they will go and it's a common fault.
for price they seem to be good, especially with a years warranty. but with the car being chipped how often can you expect the coils to go?? how quick will they come in post? yeah thats not a bad shout, ive had all mine out and i cant tell visually or by sight if they have gone so will mean all 4 will be in boot.
Well I'm not to sure how often they will go but I suppose you have to expect a few minor problems with remaps. Obviously with more power and strain on the engine it's more likely you will encounter small problems.
As for delivery I ordered my yesterday now as it's 2am as in at 1pm on Monday 6th and they are due today on 7th as I've just checked tracking. Not bad for free delivery!
Actually myn have just arrived so it took 19hours from the time I ordered on the net to arrive to my house! Can't moan at that.
I thought the D versions were included in the exchange programme?
The latest "D" version is what they will replace anything earlier than "R" suffix with in the service recall programme.
Recent versions shouldn't really go very often. There are a few cars on here still with very early ones on Stage 2 maps, believe it or not.
If your car is remapped then you can reduce the strain on the coilpacks by using colder grade spark plugs, such as NGK Iridium BKR7EIX.
Coilpacks do still fail on non-remapped cars to though, remember. It's a bit of a lottery really.
The latest "D" version is what they will replace anything earlier than "R" suffix with in the service recall programme.
OK cool, thanks for the info. I'm still happy with my M versions from Awesome though, particularly as they came in cheaper than similar items from a dealer.
Bear in mind that the timeline for revisions of the 06A series (black) and 06C series (red) do not coincide, hence "D" revision is the latest in 06C series (why D comes after R I don't know! LOL) and "M" revision is latest in the 06C series, so they are essentially equivalent.
Previous revisions of 06A were manufactured by Bremi, interestingly both D.rev. 06A and M.rev. 06C are made by Eldor..
interesting reference from Audi - http://12v.org/urs/28E9CoilReplacementCampaign.pdf
tlewis14
07-02-2012, 17:50
sold i think, LMiller, whats yours standard a cupra r 210? if so i wont hesitate to but them straight off the tinternet. i can expect certain things will go over time as with any car, just dont want it turning into a weekly thing of changing them. that is quick delivery for free though. just bought a forge split r splitter diverter dump valve, at the moment ive got a forge permanent re-circulation valve anyone after one before i put it on ebay??
sold i think, LMiller, whats yours standard a cupra r 210? if so i wont hesitate to but them straight off the tinternet. i can expect certain things will go over time as with any car, just dont want it turning into a weekly thing of changing them. that is quick delivery for free though. just bought a forge split r splitter diverter dump valve, at the moment ive got a forge permanent re-circulation valve anyone after one before i put it on ebay??
Myn is a 225 but it states they are for 210 aswel.
tlewis14
07-02-2012, 23:36
Myn is a 225 but it states they are for 210 aswel.
haha just realised how stupid that question was as it states on your posts what your car is lol yeah going to buy them now. cheers for your help
http://img.tapatalk.com/5ac6cee1-b62b-886b.jpg
Here's myn. Obviuosly you recieve 4. Pretty smart looking.
tlewis14
08-02-2012, 00:08
[IMG]
Here's myn. Obviuosly you recieve 4. Pretty smart looking.
they do look smart, did you only order 2? ive just ordered and paid for mine so hopefully should arrive as quick as yours did. im thinking of ordering a couple spare aswel now.
they do look smart, did you only order 2? ive just ordered and paid for mine so hopefully should arrive as quick as yours did. im thinking of ordering a couple spare aswel now.
Na I ordered 4! Only one of myn failed so 3 of the old ones still work so I will keep them as spares in the boot just incase :)
Dani_b19
08-02-2012, 16:32
Would faulty coil pack(s) causing revs to fluctuate or drop when coming to a stand still?
Would faulty coil pack(s) causing revs to fluctuate or drop when coming to a stand still?
Don't quote me on this bit before I fitted my new ones today myn on idling was a tad rough, revs only fluctuated a bit though but since new ones it idles so smoothly. Don't go buying them on my info though as others on here will be able to give you better information.
http://img.tapatalk.com/5ac6cee1-b3a4-46c0.jpg
Did my coilpacks today, was a bit off a faf especially at -1 and with it starting to get dark but got them fitted and it runs sweet :)
Would faulty coil pack(s) causing revs to fluctuate or drop when coming to a stand still?
Could also be dirty throttle body, try cleaning it and resetting it (vagcom to reset it).
Dani_b19
08-02-2012, 19:39
Already done that mate, made car worse for severap mile, ran like crap on tickover then eventualy sorted it self.
How did you clean the throttle body? Did you actually do the reset properly with VAGCOM?
Dani_b19
08-02-2012, 19:57
Wd40 and tooth brush. Yes mate, also reset the ecu.
tlewis14
08-02-2012, 22:19
[IMG]
Did my coilpacks today, was a bit off a faf especially at -1 and with it starting to get dark but got them fitted and it runs sweet :)
mate these look mega smart!! longest part is putting all the kit back on over 3 + 4 aint it. need to source a magnetic 5mm allen key i think, nearly lost a few fixings last time i attempted it in the dark lol
mate these look mega smart!! longest part is putting all the kit back on over 3 + 4 aint it. need to source a magnetic 5mm allen key i think, nearly lost a few fixings last time i attempted it in the dark lol
Yeh what I would have done fora magnetic Allen key, I nearly lost a few bolts myself. Also had trouble getting the connections off the coilpacks, broke one of the clips! Pushed it back on and was quite snug so hope it stays on ok. I noticed it ticks over alot smoother than it did previously aswel. Happy with it just don't want them to go again soon as it cost me over a tank of fuels worth for parts and the hassle of doing it lol!
tlewis14
08-02-2012, 23:18
Yeh what I would have done fora magnetic Allen key, I nearly lost a few bolts myself. Also had trouble getting the connections off the coilpacks, broke one of the clips! Pushed it back on and was quite snug so hope it stays on ok. I noticed it ticks over alot smoother than it did previously aswel. Happy with it just don't want them to go again soon as it cost me over a tank of fuels worth for parts and the hassle of doing it lol!
haha looks like its a common issue with how easy it is to get the holding bolts back in :rofl: i think i cracked one trying to get one off 2, its like u need baby hands to get in and to release the clip. got a daft Q for ya.... looking at the engine bay, what is the box between the air box and headlight? i only ask because ive neither the air box or the other box as ive some kind of cheap and nasty cold air feed induction kit and wanting to source the original equipment to put back in as i think the whole boy racer theme im getting to old for lol
Wd40 and tooth brush. Yes mate, also reset the ecu.
Did you remove the TB from the manifold?
Wynn's Carb Cleaner is better for this, if you left the TB on the manifold and used WD40 could it have been some of that getting in to the engine that upset it?
looking at the engine bay, what is the box between the air box and headlight? i only ask because ive neither the air box or the other box as ive some kind of cheap and nasty cold air feed induction kit and wanting to source the original equipment to put back in as i think the whole boy racer theme im getting to old for lol
That's the battery.
haha looks like its a common issue with how easy it is to get the holding bolts back in :rofl: i think i cracked one trying to get one off 2, its like u need baby hands to get in and to release the clip. got a daft Q for ya.... looking at the engine bay, what is the box between the air box and headlight? i only ask because ive neither the air box or the other box as ive some kind of cheap and nasty cold air feed induction kit and wanting to source the original equipment to put back in as i think the whole boy racer theme im getting to old for lol
As in there's nothing there? Can you put a picture up?
tlewis14
09-02-2012, 18:51
As in there's nothing there? Can you put a picture up?
ummm...... let me have a look and get back to you, maybe ive bypassed the sight of the battery because of how shite a part is claiming to be an air filter lol just had a look through service records and its called a 'dynatwist induction kit' if that means anything to anyone??
tlewis14
10-02-2012, 15:09
ummm...... let me have a look and get back to you, maybe ive bypassed the sight of the battery because of how shite a part is claiming to be an air filter lol just had a look through service records and its called a 'dynatwist induction kit' if that means anything to anyone??
yeah thats my battery, havent got a battery cover on it so that would explain why it looked different in other pics. new red coil packs came today from awsome gti and they do look smart. now have got to find time to change them. noticed today that each one has a different VMQ number on it, numbers ive got is 1,2,5 + 14 ?? just wondering if these make a slightest difference where they go. if a coil pack was to go completly would it put the engine management light up?
I didn't put myn in any sort of order, just chucked them in! I think it only throws a light if you boost it and it goes into limp mode because of the fault. As if I just started myn and drove slowly under 3k no management light came on but it had definantly gone as it was running on 3.
tlewis14
10-02-2012, 16:17
I didn't put myn in any sort of order, just chucked them in! I think it only throws a light if you boost it and it goes into limp mode because of the fault. As if I just started myn and drove slowly under 3k no management light came on but it had definantly gone as it was running on 3.
yea thats all i can do on flat ground is around 3k. any heavier under foot it plays up, well i went out to get some shopping last nite (around 4 mile) took it really steady and noticed when i got back the light was on permanent? fingers crossed the coil packs will sort this, had noticed just before i got home going up a slight gradient it started spluttering at 2 - 2.5k thats what made me think one had gone alltogether. cant wait to put them in, tempted to risk hypothermia and to them when i fin work with a inspection lamp.:D
yea thats all i can do on flat ground is around 3k. any heavier under foot it plays up, well i went out to get some shopping last nite (around 4 mile) took it really steady and noticed when i got back the light was on permanent? fingers crossed the coil packs will sort this, had noticed just before i got home going up a slight gradient it started spluttering at 2 - 2.5k thats what made me think one had gone alltogether. cant wait to put them in, tempted to risk hypothermia and to them when i fin work with a inspection lamp.:D
Apparently you shouldnt drive it with one gone as the fuel in that cylinder is not being burnt so it goes into your exhaust and can burn in there causing your catalytic converter to mess up! That's an expensive job!! You should fit em now, 20-30mins tops.
Apparently you shouldnt drive it with one gone as the fuel in that cylinder is not being burnt so it goes into your exhaust and can burn in there causing your catalytic converter to mess up! That's an expensive job!! You should fit em now, 20-30mins tops.
Absolutely correct, don't drive any further than you really have to if a coil is gone. If you get stuck and you have to drive, then unplug the injector for that cylinder to stop the fuel going in. It will be hard to drive with one cylinder down, as it messes up the fuelling for the other 3 as the lambda sensor tries to compensate, but will get you home.
tlewis14
10-02-2012, 23:16
Absolutely correct, don't drive any further than you really have to if a coil is gone. If you get stuck and you have to drive, then unplug the injector for that cylinder to stop the fuel going in. It will be hard to drive with one cylinder down, as it messes up the fuelling for the other 3 as the lambda sensor tries to compensate, but will get you home.
well i have no intention of moving it until the new ones are fitted, so do you both think im correct in thinking the engine management light staying on would indicate coil pack failure as i cant stick it on a vag-com until at least monday. thanks for the advise tho both. gona fit my new dump valve at same time and fingers crossed isnt to much of a faf.
i'd be pretty sure from what you say that it's coilpack that's set the light on yes.
tlewis14
10-02-2012, 23:31
hopefully so, ive spent enough on the bloody thing and dont fancy spending much more. lol think im going to nick-name the car 'deep pockets' haha
tlewis14
11-02-2012, 20:14
i'd be pretty sure from what you say that it's coilpack that's set the light on yes.
all new coil packs i got from awesome gti, which have worked a treat all boost there as normal and smooth transition when boost kicks in. im guessing i need to stick the car on a vag-com to wipe the fault light?
tlewis14
11-02-2012, 20:17
all new coil packs i got from awesome gti, which have worked a treat all boost there as normal and smooth transition when boost kicks in. im guessing i need to stick the car on a vag-com to wipe the fault light?
also have a tip on getting the coil pack holding plate fixings out safely without losing them, i took the magnets off of old fridge magnets and attach them to the top part of a t-bar type allen key and this will create a magnetic edge to it.
also have a tip on getting the coil pack holding plate fixings out safely without losing them, i took the magnets off of old fridge magnets and attach them to the top part of a t-bar type allen key and this will create a magnetic edge to it.
I wish I had known this before I did myn lol
tlewis14
11-02-2012, 20:28
I wish I had known this before I did myn lol
haha sods law u get a tip now. getting sick of taking everything off again after the last fixing falls down under the vacuum holding bracket. got to get a couple of coil pack spares i think, and look at putting the required tools in tray in boot so i can do it road side. fun.com now just got to fit the dump valve which im leaving til' tomorrow as its -5 now and cant feel my toes:( lol
tlewis14
12-02-2012, 23:56
daft Question for anyone. fitted a forge split r dump valve today. instructions tell me how much to adjust the spring but not sure what stage re-map ive got as previous owner had it done, have rolling road results showing 284bhp any idea what stage this is? 1 or 2? im assuming 2 but without a boost gauge i wouldnt have a clue and boost feels not 100%
Sounds like a stage 2 mate. Does it not feel 100% since fitting the split r?
tlewis14
13-02-2012, 10:56
Sounds like a stage 2 mate. Does it not feel 100% since fitting the split r?
cool , cheers dude. no not really 100% no. just need to adjust the spring tension to get it right. instructions do say it may need slight adjustment either way to get it right. this is why im thinking about investing in the double gauge pillar mount to see the boost pressure.
Just brought my mk1 Leon in for recall they going to replace two coil packs.
tlewis14
16-02-2012, 00:37
Just brought my mk1 Leon in for recall they going to replace two coil packs.
recall from seat? taken they're time to recall them haven't they? i wonder if this will be all across the LCR's ?
I just have a petrol cupra it was by pure chance that I found out. a customer of mine owns a seat dealership and he was entering my chassis number on computer for a part and noticed a campaign for coil packs and he noticed under my chassis number that it was not listed as being notified yet..
tlewis14
16-02-2012, 19:25
I just have a petrol cupra it was by pure chance that I found out. a customer of mine owns a seat dealership and he was entering my chassis number on computer for a part and noticed a campaign for coil packs and he noticed under my chassis number that it was not listed as being notified yet..
i wonder if this applies to everyone, i suppose the every one that has had one of the earlier ones have allready changed the coilpacks. what do you have to do take your car in or would they hand you the number of coilpacks on offer? i will pop into my local stealers and see if its allready been in or not.
TomJackUK
23-03-2012, 20:48
Or, even easier - just give them a call and give them your reg. They can look it up, and then book you in if your car is on the recall list :)