View Full Version : Losing BHP - Top end? (rolling roaded)help required!
Hey guys.
I had my Cupra Rolling Roaded today in birmingham.
I got the graph back and unfortunatly it wasnt what i was hoping
The BHP peaked at 4500rpm!!! (about) at 197bhp.
After that the power just dropped off, as did the torque (was about 240lbs max)
Lately ive noticed that when really giving it some shit on the roads it hasnt been pulling so well when past about 120mph.(my private road i mean!)
A few weeks back i was playing with a 328bmw and i clocked a good 145, which it didnt seem to stuggle to at all-leaving the beemer for dust!
It seems the car may be running lean top end?
any ideas?
MAF?
your opinions needed please!
thanks
Mark B
jsut to note, there was one other cupra there today, it did 207bhp and when comparing graphs they were pretty much like for like uptill when mine just dropped right off. it was a cold day, and they olny did 2 quick runs on the car, so i doubt it was bad heat soak..was it??
Mark
What mods u running what software, what mods did the other cupra have and what software?.
ive got revo, with dynatwist and cat back scoprion zorst, forge oo7p running 98ron setting (lowboost9 timing6) and optimax
The car has been RR'd before and it got 204bhp without the dynatwist or zorst, and on 95ron setting + fuel.
other beeza had jabba rechip, and a big induction kit with magnex zorst
mark
How high is your boost spike, do u have a boost guage, powers not bad just dies on its arse top end. 197bhp is respectable for a 20vt ibiza. Not sure m8 will give it some thought.
you say 197 is ok - i know what your saying but its not good enough!
i think revo say 212 or something silly, like i say, mine was at 204 withouth the dynatwist or the cat back zorst. it seems funny how it just falls away. thats why i think it could be the MAF, and also like i said,it was pulling top end better than it does at the moment-see what im saying?
You will get lots of speculation, but for me the best bet would be a trip to your revo supplier or someone who knows how to use vag com corectly let a pro take a look.:cheers:
yeah i know - thing is i cant take it to seat and say, "look this aint good enough its only pushing 197bhp"it should be about 205bhp!" lol the look on their faces may be worth it though:D
ive just looked at fault codes on my vagcom and its thrown;
"maf signal too high - intermittant" (or something)
whats that then?anyone know?
Mark
:(
It may not help, when my maf knackered on start up idleing was terrible, also after a blast it would be the same very erratic. My car shuddered badly and cut back under hard accelaration then eventually the engine light came on, and the traction control light. My local dealer replaced it under warranty, i had a superchip fitted and they did not even check for a chip.
thats interesting, my car has been spluttering a bit lately, not much, but a bit, and the TCS light came on yesterday, and wouldnt go off, it didnt happen again though once i had switched the engine off and back on again.
i wouldnt say mine is actually totally broken, just on its way out maybe?
Ive attached the print out i was given..
It does sound very maf like. But i dont want to send u in the wrong direction. If vag com is picking up a maf fault, and the tc light is sounds possible u can use vag com to check certain parameters, people will be able to tell u better than me, it may be requested vs actual boost.
yeah i see what your saying, thanks a lot for your help though pal:cheers:
i really am going to attach it this time..
oh and now ive looked at it again, its 194bhp, not 197bhp.:(
mark
194bhp still isn't bad on a rolling road. On a RR you will always get lower figures than the true real world figures due to the reduced airflow (You may think the difference is small, but its not, its massive. Even the biggest fans cannot cool any better than you driving at just 15mph!).
Remember that even the best RR's are only accurate to under 10%... that means that in your case you can expect the reading to vary by over 20bhp from day to day!
Ben
chriskaven
25-01-2004, 08:41
I would have said the MAF. My friend had just had a maf failure which flagged the engine check light and traction control light.
I don't know if you were aware, but I think the engine only uses the MAF to trim the Air fuel ratio for best fuel economy and smoothness at small throttle openings and steady state engine speeds such as a motorway cruise or at idle.
At full load Wide open throttle conditions the control system goes open loop and simply uses the manifold air pressure sensor (with a correction factor for amibent temp) to determine what spark and fuel to chuck in.
I would try unplugging the MAF. When we did this on my mates, the car ran fine (although it is a standard car) but that shouldn't matter.
When some peeps have done this, some people have reported a lumpy idle or be a bit more jerky at small throttle openings but full throttle remains ok.
Lets us know what happens!
chriskaven
25-01-2004, 08:45
If unplugging the maf works it might be wrth trying to clean the MAF before buying a new one.
This involves taking it off and spraying some iso propo achohol (not sure on exact name:) )over it . This sometimes works.
Be very careful with the maf though, as they are very sensitive, dont touch it with anything or drop it!:D
I think you can get the cleaing stuff from chemists, hardwhere shops or electrical shops.
Ok, thanks for the advice:)
2 things though ;
1st off, although im agreeing with ben about the airflow, it still seems a bit slugish top end on the road
2nd i dont think the fan on the rolling road was even that big, didnt seem to be very powerfull - but ive got nothing to base that on coz ive not used a rr before.
anyone else?
ive just remembered the other cupra had a FMIC on it.
This would maybe sugest why his got power he was expecting and mine dropped right off. what do people think?
Does that graph look like ya classic heat soak?
Mark