PDA

View Full Version : Reducing under engine temperatures


warren_cox
20-03-2004, 16:09
I've been getting some deformation of my intercooler pipe (front nearside), and wondered whether it was caused by heat under the engine bay or temp within the pipe itself + increased boost from remap.

Having looked at some of the threads on Samco hoses:

a) theyre not that cheap for 0.1% performace improvement
b) Some say silicon content is detrimental to cat and lambda probe

Would reducing the temp under the engine bay help at all? In the demon tweeks catalogue it says reducing the engine bay temp increases power using exhaust insulation wrap. Is this only an useful for cars without intercoolers?

Would it make any difference on an LCR or should I get on the phone to Forge Motorsport and get 2 samco pipes instead?

I know this isn't strictly 'Engine Tuning' but didnt know where else to put it.

:cheers:

Warren

Fl@pper
20-03-2004, 16:28
i'd say do both :p

save power loss and reduce heat with some lagging

nd keep it in tow with the hoses

especially as Forge have a samco sale on @ the monet

vern
20-03-2004, 16:36
Warren go samco m8,not heard of any probs plenty of peeps runnig this stuff mate,and custom ones etc
vern

m0rk
20-03-2004, 16:53
removing the undertray & under bonnet blanket helped mine no end (oil temps dropped a good 10C)
M

CupraR-Rog
20-03-2004, 18:00
I think the main thing that's going to be causing the IC hoses hot enough to deform is the fact compresed air is being rammed through them...

OK, so cutting vents into your bonnet may help things, but I think upgrading the hoses is what's needed.

What's this about silicone damaging the cat?? New one to me!! :confused:

Wilko
20-03-2004, 19:05
You could always keep your cat nice and safe in the garage!

cordobabrendy
20-03-2004, 19:57
undertray removal will lead to accelerated power steering belt failure, you heard it here first..
Due to water and dirt getting into and between the belts.

warren_cox
21-03-2004, 15:32
Settled, I shall do both!
cheers all

:cheers: :thumbup: :cheeky:

BenS1
21-03-2004, 20:57
What's this about silicone damaging the cat?? New one to me!! :confused:

Max_Torque done once of his nice technical posts in which he pointed out that silicon hoses actually damage the cat/lambda probes (Can't remember which, probes I think).... I guess the post was in the Samco hoses thread.

Ben

CupraR-Rog
21-03-2004, 21:25
Max_Torque done once of his nice technical posts in which he pointed out that silicon hoses actually damage the cat/lambda probes (Can't remember which, probes I think).... I guess the post was in the Samco hoses thread.

Ben
Where's a "gulp" emoticon when you need one?? :blink:

Fl@pper
21-03-2004, 21:37
Max_Torque done once of his nice technical posts in which he pointed out that silicon hoses actually damage the cat/lambda probes (Can't remember which, probes I think).... I guess the post was in the Samco hoses thread.

Ben

only over a long term use - say 50/60'000 miles

saying that most lambda's need cleaning out or replacing by then anyway

CupraR-Rog
21-03-2004, 21:44
And what's the cost of a new probe??

I'm starting to think getting the samco wasn't such a good idea now...

Icecavern
22-03-2004, 07:05
Well if you want to get rid of them Rog ;) :D

Pete

ibizacupra
22-03-2004, 07:57
I have never heard of a Silicone hose being blamed for lambda failure..... othe rthan lambda failure from normal mortality.. (lets face it how could you tell the difference)

Silicon spray however, a la shiney blinging up ya engine bay, can have a detrimantal effect.

Hoses are autoclave cured, and non volatile... but the aerosole sprays are more likely the silicon concern.

Bill

mark sheerin
22-03-2004, 09:52
I wouldn't worry about the undertray either....
I lost my undertary when my car was a week old and the right angled lip it has caught over the top of a kerb when I parked.
Have done 60000 miles without it no problem..
I never thought about it but even in the summer and with revo my engine temp has never gone above 90degrees....maybe thats the missing undertray?
Engine bay is a little dusty though but nothing major and no rusty bits.

CupraR-Rog
22-03-2004, 10:50
Well if you want to get rid of them Rog ;) :D

Pete
Gee... let me think...

Nah!! ;)

Jammy
25-03-2004, 23:34
with revo my engine temp has never gone above 90degrees....

Be careful though, Engines are designed to run around the 90degree mark. Running at lower temps can be dodgy. Same reason you dont raz it when its cold.

JAmes

m0rk
26-03-2004, 07:06
I thinkt what they're aiming for is lower ambient temperatures under the bonnet rather than cooling their engine

but the point that people miss is that they're looking at the coolant, not the oil!

LEO LION R
26-03-2004, 07:12
I thought they were meaning reducing under bonnet temps, to help reduce air intake temps - ie lower induction temps by letting mor eair pass through the eangine bay ?

slim_boy_fat
26-03-2004, 08:19
I think the main thing that's going to be causing the IC hoses hot enough to deform is the fact compresed air is being rammed through them...



That doesnt make sense!!




The exhaust manifold wraps are a great idea, as not only do they keep heat away from the engine bay, but they keep the energy in the exhaust gasses which helps with turbo spool up, especially if the turbo is a long way from the manifold.

I am sure my tdi had hard pipes, inface my golf tdi has hard ic pipes as does my 944. Can you get them for the Leon?

Lee_Turbo
26-03-2004, 13:56
Lagging a cast iron exhaust manifold is not really a good idea for a road car. The heat contained within the wrap wil push the temp of the manifold up to a point that could crack it.

It will probably help with horse power and definately reduce under bonnet temperatures, and could possibly reduce turbo lag, but better to wrap the downpipe after the turbo, unless your car is built for the track only IMHO.

CupraR-Rog
26-03-2004, 18:01
That doesnt make sense!!
Since when does anything I say make sense?! :blink:

LEO LION R
23-04-2004, 08:40
So what have you decided to do then ?

:cheers:

warren_cox
23-04-2004, 09:15
Money's been tight this month as the Mrs stamped her feet and made me book 3 (yes 3 ) annual holidays for this year. I think it was a protest that would make me spend less money on the LCR! :D :censored:

However, being the resourceful chap I am I've been juggling money and loans about and its left me with some slack for May. 10k service is due in 1100 miles so am going to have AmD fit the exhaust wrap then. I may (repeat MAY ) have a Milltek system put on at the same time to kill 2 birds with one stone. I will leave it to their infinite wisdom as to where they decide to lag the pipe. They can also fit the Samco pipes. Also need two new front tyres so I get the feeling the service in total is going to be astronomically expensive (about £1500 in all). I hope the car comes out feeling mint! Also got the S3 brace to fit now.

Will the Milltek underperform as I had my car remapped with the OE exhaust? I was hoping AmD may run it to make sure its running at full efficiency as it was them who remapped the car (and will service it! :whistle: ). Also where did you get some DECENT jubilee clips from? :confused:

Nautilus
03-05-2008, 13:17
I revive this thread if any more members are interested :)

I had a small but annoying problem with my cold side intercooler hose and intake manifold (I'm running 1.3-1.5bar of boost and stock IC on my Leon FR right now, uprated IC on the way): they were both hot. On a moderate speed highway trip, with plenty of air flowing, it was no problem, both IC rubber hose to manifold and manifold itself were lukewarm, but in city stop-and-go traffic, they became quickly hot. The manifold is heated by radiated heat from the cylinder head (should add a Power Gasket type insulating gasket), while the hose got blown by hot air from the radiator (like being blown all day by a hair dryer); while the first half, near the IC outlet, was rather cold, the next half was both hot and subject to torturous stretching each time it was inflated under boost.

As a Samco IC to manifold hose was far too expensive for just a silicon tube and nobody could guarantee it would not get hot itself and heat again the air which the IC had just cooled, I tried to solve the problem myself: wrapped some plastic cable-tie type circles around the hose first - now it got inflated only 0.5cm(1/5th inch) instead of doubling its diameter. Then got a polyfoam 60mm tube with 10mm wall thickness, the type with aluminium cover used for household pipe insulation, and placed it around the hose, wrapped more plastic ties around to keep it in place. Left the first 1/3rd of the hose (where the factory wire mesh is) free, for it was outside the path of hot air from the radiator.

Tested it around last evening (not quite the best weather conditions for it was humid and only 16 degrees C outside). Results:

- free hose near IC outlet - cold as ambient;
- manifold - rather hot;
- wrapped hose beneath insulation - just as cold as ambient :D
- spool up - it appears slightly (fractions of a second) quicker, as the hose is much more rigid now and turbo does not have to waste energy pushing air to inflate the hose; may be an illusion though

Picture:

http://img37.picoodle.com/img/img37/4/5/3/t_0305081711m_1a97e7d.jpg (http://www.picoodle.com/view.php?img=/4/5/3/f_0305081711m_1a97e7d.jpg&srv=img37)

Regards,

~Nautilus

warren_cox
04-05-2008, 08:09
Holy moly, revived from over 4 years ago. Nice job you've done though. Be interesting to see if it works as a long term solution.

Nautilus
10-05-2008, 23:38
Had done a very high speed, very high boost test this night. Outside temperature about 13 degrees Celsius

- IC -> cold as ambient
- manifold -> warm
- unwrapped part of hose -> cold as IC
- wrapping -> warm as the manifold
- hose beneath wrapping -> cold

It works :)

~Nautilus