View Full Version : Oil coolers for HD applications
Hi guys,
I've been looking at adding an oilcooler to keep down oil temps. Was looking at one of these jobs:
http://www.eurosportacc.com/oilcooler.htm
Problem is I'm not getting any help regarding the sandwish plate. I can't figure it out myself? :confused:
I know on older cars with the exterior oil filter, the sandwish plate would be supplied with a longer oil filter stud, and get sandwished between the OE oil/water cooler and the oil filter.
How does it work on the newer cars? AFAIK the setup on my diesel is the same as that found on a leon cupra..Help much appreciated.
Here is a pic of the way the oil cooler sandwich plate fits on my Lupo. Its a bit hard to see because of the exhaust manifold but you can make out the oil filter and the plate underneath.
http://www.dcpvr6.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/oilcoolerplate.JPG
(The pic isnt resized as its direct from the cam)
is your tdi using the element type oil filter
in a black case at the front
is your tdi using the element type oil filter
in a black case at the front
It is Fl@pper. I can't figure out how a sandwish plate would work in this situation. I was trying to figure out how the 1.8T leon looked (look at the simularities).
Thanks for your help guys...still need more.
best bet would be to tap in from an oil pressure switch outlet and return to sump
that filter housing could possibly be converted with a plate made up and add a remote filter assy - lot of work though
best bet would be to tap in from an oil pressure switch outlet and return to sump
that filter housing could possibly be converted with a plate made up and add a remote filter assy - lot of work though
:think: I did find a couple of 1.8t kits around...do you know if the housing/oil pressure switch thingy is the same? I think if I can find out the similarities between the 2 cars (tdi vs 1.8t), I can fgure out if I can make one of these 1.8t kits to fit.
Sorry for all the questions Fl@pper, but I'm seeing some high temps when running high boost.
no probs mate - see the pic
personally i would either pipe off the water flow to the std cooler inlet to a small cooler before it goes to the housing
OR
you'll see the bottom housing and a plug in side of the main body - maybe worth a look at the pressure/dimension to add a cooler feed and return line in there
main problem is you will need to remember is needing a little extra oil in it to compensate for the cooler and pipes - i usually trial fit - remove it and fit all the bits together - fill the pipes/cooler - empty and measure the capacity
Muchas Gracias Fl@pper! :thumbup:
I'll have a look tonight. I think your 1st option might be the easiest.. Someone from another forum also mentioned the oil cooler off an S4 (same oil/water type), but larger in size.
workie...workie...
be worth a go water wise - easy to redo if still ineffective
maybe summat along teh lines of the PAS cooler
theres a very nice long thin radiator type on the S8 that would be just the job :p but most models just use steel tubing
or again another thought - check ya anitfreeze level as its more heat efficent than water - no more than 70% mix though or it could be abrasive and maybe even add a permanently on fan switch for those high boost moments ??
ie normal running all as std - if getting hot and giving it some PASTY ! ! :P have a switch to activate cooling fans on radiator full time ??
second wind : extreme and sensible
bonnet vent with twin fans to extract the heat skyward as in the focus WRC car ??
OR
Lag up the turbo and heat shield ??
seen on other cars a good 15/20% lowering of underbonnet heat
http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/products.htm have a read here :p
whilst searching for a pic found this ""Secret to the Power Stroke's immediate throttle response is this Electronic Variable Response Turbocharger. The computer-controlled vanes on the turbo housing rotate to change the speed of the exhaust gases hitting the impeller according to demand instead of waiting for engine rpm to increase."" mmm more late night reading then DOH
Thanks Fl@pper, but my problem is really the oil temp. When running 1.8bar of boost oil temps rocket to 160ºC... :-o . This only happens running on a dyno, so I think that even during trackday driving, it will probably not reach that temp (but still way over what's reasonable). I'd like to keep it down to 120ºC if possible.
instead of just cooling the oil after its got hot why not look at why it is
the oils basically taking all the heat of the engine so easiest way is to remove the heat source problem or at least lower it as much as possible
best bet is turbo / exhaust wrap - then try it - trust me it will be lower
Thanks Fl@pper, I'll look into it. It will probably be cheaper then messing with a new/additional oil cooler. :cheers:
or again another thought - check ya anitfreeze level as its more heat efficent than water
How do you mean heat efficient? A 25% antifreeze mix actually LOWERS the amount of heat the mixture can hold by 6%.
Thanks Fl@pper, but my problem is really the oil temp. When running 1.8bar of boost oil temps rocket to 160ºC... . This only happens running on a dyno, so I think that even during trackday driving, it will probably not reach that temp (but still way over what's reasonable). I'd like to keep it down to 120ºC if possible.
160C!!! I could be wrong but I think the absolute max is 140C. If you go above that then the oil starts to break down. When oil breaks down it will stay broken down even once the oil cools again, and broken down oil can result in "the black death"... ie. the oil leaves a deposit with the consistency of tar! New engine time.
Basically, if you oil ever reaches a temperature where it would start to break down then you should replace it ASAP!
Note: Obviously different oils break down at different temperatures, but 140C is the absolute max IMO.
Cheers
Ben
Use A Mark 1 Golf Plate And Then Youve Got All The Correct Bits Onit
:)
Use A Mark 1 Golf Plate And Then Youve Got All The Correct Bits Onit
but a mk1 uses a drop fed cannister - ??
his is a tdi so it's an element filter albeit with a lower housing that could possibly be adapted http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6783
IF a std sandwich plate fits the bottom - then a std cooler kit is the answer (bonus :) )
A 25% antifreeze mix actually LOWERS the amount of heat the mixture can hold by 6%.
but VAG antifreeze uses Ethylene Glycol which is an organic liquid that prevents water in the radiator of the vehicle from freezing and from boiling over as It elevates the boiling point of water and at the same time will depress the freezing point of that same water to prevent freeze up in the winter, hence the name of the solution, "anti-freeze" should be just cooled coolant additive really
well thats what i was always taught
as for oil - i know the viscosity is a factor in the chemical properties - summat like a 5W-30 would be thinnest @ 5 degrees and start to thicken at 30 ?? summat like that - was a looooon time ago though mind - lol
Well I took a look last night and my setup is very similar to Fl@pper's attached ETKA pic (except the OE oil/water cooler seems to be a bit bigger). I might be able to sandwish something between the OE cooler and the O-rings (between 11-12 or 12-13). I'd probably have to pick up a smaller OE cooler.
Yes Ben...160ºC is way over the top..Best to keep under 120ºC.