View Full Version : Amp remote lead
I'm going to attempt to fit my amps that have been sitting round for months today. 2 questions, firstly whats the easiest way of removing the door sills so i can get the carpet up, i dont want to just yank away and break it!!
And secondly, whats the easiest thing to connect the remote to?
Cheers
Gav
Is that with a leon or an ibiza std stereo or with an aftermarket job??
I think that on the std ones you can get the 12V antenna signal from the ISO connector on the back of the head unit... heres a picture looking into the back of the unit..
check with a multi meter though...
Oh yeah sorry, its a 2000 ibiza, standard head unit! Is ia difficult getting to the back to find the cable?
Not sure mate I know there is a removal guide on the mail www.seatcupra.net site...
I think roly ended up just running a fused suplly straight from the battery and putting a switch on it?
as matt1e said im running a remote direct from the battery on a fuse lead with and on/off switch. no probs as such just gotta remember 2 turn it off when u leave the car.
am thinking about running it off the head unit but i still gotta build a proper install yet.
gav r u going up 2 the track day ? ur not a million miles up the road from me
I'm thinking about it, is it a track or just a 1/4 mile strip? I can get someone to show me how to take the interior apart then!! I've done a fiesta which was nice and simple, a 205 which basically fell apart but i couldnt work out how to get the panels off so i gave up in the end!
the inner a piller linning is held in with 2 screw's and a metal clip, just undo the screws and give it a pull.
the panel along the sill has 1 screw going into the rear quater panel and then several more of those metal clips. do the same again with that 1.
the rear quater panel has 1 screw 1 allen bolt 1 plastic clip and 3 plastic screw thingys. once there out u need 2 lift the panel upwards so it unclips from the mountings on the top of the metal quater panel.
u should now b able 2 remove this panel and get ur wires down the side of the car.
hope this makes sense ??
let me know if u need any more help
ben
ps track day is 1/4 mile and track use, but u need 2 get ur money in now.
take out the standard radio on the ibiza and join in to iso connector on the back. then run this lead to your amplifier at the back of the car .
its usually coloured blue but get a wiring diagram to make sure.
dont connect it straight from the battery on a switch this could damage your amplifier and possibly make it sound crap as well
the remote turn on lead runs at 12 volts but at a very small
amp rating a battery has a huge amp capacity and could easily fry your amp
Cheers for that, i'll try to get it done before the track day!! Speaking of which, is it members of this forum who get in for £40, or do you have to be a member of the actual driver's club?! Roly i'll let you know if i'm going so i've got someone to follow!
Gav
you gotta b a member of the seat drivers club to get in 4 £40 otherwise it's £50 2 non members.
if u wan't a hand with fitting ur amp message me and i'll give u hand.
have a look at seatdriversclub.co.uk regarding club membership.
Genesis why will this kill your amp if it is correctly fused at 100mA? Thats the same as the remote supply on the head unit aint it?
I thought the rem lead just switched the power on and off why would it make it sound crap? Is there a possibility of voltage drop outs below the threshold turning the amp on and off? Is thought they were mostly FET drives these days? I guess there is a chance of switch bounce causing a thud at power up / down?
Just interested to know the reasons:)
M
matt1e
we were talking last week about the on/off switch in my beeza and the thud at power up/down.
today i rewired the remote 2 the back of the head unit, no more thud, and i don't have 2 remember 2 turn it off:)
only prob is it still sounds shit:( i think it might have something 2 do with the speaker wire's being used for the amp but im not sure !!
one reason for this is turn on pop which can cause serious damage to an amplifier .
another reason is that some amplifiers are wired so that they can
easily draw enough power through the remote turn on lead to
fry the inside of the amp real quick .
ie turning on a big battery
its a bit like using a cattle prod to wake someone up in the morning whereas a simple "good morning" usually suffices.:devil:
Icecavern
18-02-2002, 08:28
Hang on a minute, you won't damage the amp by connecting the remote lead to the battery. In fact if you have several bits of kit connected to the HU remote lead you can damage the head unit...
I have the remote feed to a relay which switches a fused battery feed to the amps remote inputs.. That's how I was always taut to do it..
The ibiza ISO connector does have a remote turn on feed but it's the black lead!! Bloody seat can't even get sensible colour coding right! There's a post somewhere I put in this section titled something like "The news you've all been waiting for" It tells you how to get the wireing in in a new Ibiza..
Pete
ok so the bounce on the switch can cause transient to the power output stage and maybe pop um. But it not true about the current thing. As long as you correctly fues the wire inline it wont cause a problem! After all the remote lead is just fused down from the battery and switched by a power FET. Well thats the case on the Sony / Kenwood circuits I've seen.
A cattle prod is naff all current its just a very high voltage which enables it to break down air and therefore cause the sparky lightening effect.
Any high current source can supply a low current and is limited to that low current if a fuse is fitted.
For example we manufacture a High visibility portable display. it draws about 100mA This is run from a 100Ah battery very similar to a car battery It is fused at 150mA and it just means it can run for longer...but is still safe
believe who you wish i have also been taught a certain way
and if you want to do the job properly then do it at the back of the head unit
nobody said anything about adding a relay to the flylead which does make a differance ie the current draw
there is a possibility of switch bounce however unlikely
but also the chance of voltage dropout also however unlikely
voltage dropout can cause amps to go screwy and therefore sound not at their best this is the point i was trying to make
There are two definitions of properly here..
Theres yours genesis which is for a single amp install which has a total rem requirement of less that the current available on the head unit. In which case the correct way is to use the output from the head unit.
But if as in Petes set up you need more current than this then the correct way is to use a relay switching a fused supply from the battery.
a mechanical switch will always bounce there is no such thing as a mechanical switch or relay that doesn't bounce. It can easiliy be sorted with a small 0.1uF cap from REM to ground.
If you get a voltage drop big enuff to cause trouble with the REM its already going to be sounding shite regardless of the REM supply as the main supply will have dropped out too...
Anyways enuff of this idle bollocks:)
M
Now now girlies!! I have to agree with genesis on this one, all the remote does is turn the amp on, it doesn't need much current so surely the head unit would be best?! I had 2 amps running like this on my old car with no problems and sound quality was spot on because this surely shouldn't affect the performance of the amp(s)!!
I cant be arsed with this any more agree to disagree. There is no difference in the two ways if both are done properly from a technical point of view...
I've also spent the best part of 4 years doing a degree in electronics and have a years comercial experience in automotive systems
why not do what i have done i have quite a lot to turn on for my system including four big amplifiers several processors and
neon lights all connected from the head unit remote via a relay no need to run a lead from the battery
Icecavern
20-02-2002, 07:59
Errrrr.... isn't that what I said? :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
The remote lead goes into a relay. The relay switches a 12v feed from my distribution box ( but that's a fused battery feed ) which goes to each amp/processors remote input...
I think that's what you just said Genesis mate, but earlier you said that was the wrong way to do it....
I think we have our wires crossed ( no pun intended.. ) :p :p :p
Pete
I think a wires crossed situation too lol:) ah were all on the same wavelength now:)
aaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhh i see now yes a wires crossed situation i think mate sorry
we were both right.
Icecavern
21-02-2002, 08:47
But I removed my amp rack the other day before putting the car in to have the leak fixed and now all my wires are tangled.... hehehehe
Pete