Mk3 Ibiza Cupra FAQ - Please Read Before Posting

Nov 2, 2004
9,335
0
South Wales
This thread is setup to help the new, and sometimes old, members find information on their 6k Ibiza Cupra.

This FAQ thread will be a mix of information in each post or links to relevant information that will help you find the answer your lookin for.


And if there is anything missing or you cant see a piece of information listed then please use the SEARCH option.


1. General 1.8t Troubleshooting Guide

2. Standard Spec and Engine Code Info

3. Wheels,_Tyres_and_Spacers

4. Cupra vs. Cupra R

5. K03s guide and what's needed

6. Clutch Pedal Snapped Info

7. Part Numbers

8. N249 By-pass - Original Thread by Sim - Updated thread by Mike_IbizaCupra

9. DV vs. BOV

10. Brake Info

11. 1.8t Acronyms

12. Jammed Boot Help

13. SAI Removal

14. Chipping/Remapping Info

15. FMIC

16. CAI

17. Bulb Sizes

18. Sump plug info

19. Polo Suspension

20. Flip Key - Thread 1 Thread 2

21. Buying Guide - What to look for

22. Melted Battery Fuse Box

23. What Wheels Fit Brembos

24. Spark Plug Info

25. Engine Bay Hose Sizes

26. Gauge Fitting - Threads by Craig! Thread 1 - Thread 2 -

27. Ibiza Fuse Layout

28. Sub and Amp Install on Standard Head Unit

29. Window Switch Repair

30. Heater SMD Tutorial

31. Door Card Removal

32. Outside Temp Sensor DIY

32. Reduce Play In Steering DIY

33. How To: Compression Test


Please do no post in this thread as its only WIP at the moment.

If you need to comment use this thread...

http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=121350
 
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Nov 2, 2004
9,335
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South Wales
Wheels, Tyres and Spacers Info

Standard wheels are 16" with 195/45/16 rubber
PCD 4x100
Offset 35-37
Centre Bore - 57.1
Bolt Thread - M12 x 1.5 pitch

17" 7J wheels fit with no problems anything bigger and your looking at arch work for them to fit.

As the rear wheels run 35mm closer together than the front one of the most common upgrades on the Ibiza is to run wheel spacers. The most common size is 15mm, but 20mm are used as well. Anything over 10mm spacers and you will have to use hubcentric spacers. Longer wheel bolts are require really with spacers all of which are available from Badger 5.
 
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Nov 2, 2004
9,335
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South Wales
Engine Code Info

General

Production 2 Oct 2000 to 1 May 2002
Length 3876 mm
Width 1640 mm
Height 1422 mm
Weight 1119 kg
Fuel Delivery Multi point fuel injection
Transmission Manual
Gears 5 Speed

Costs

MPG 35
Insurance Group 15
Euro Emissions Standard III
CO2 Emissions 189 g/km
Road Tax Band F

Performance

Engine Size 1781 cc
Cylinders 4
0-60 mph 7.6 s
Power Output 156 bhp
Valves 20
Torque 210 Nm 155 lb-ft
Top Speed 135 mph

Practicality

Wheelbase 2443 mm
Luggage Capacity 250 L
Fuel Capacity 45 L
Turning Circle 10 m



Engine codes are AYP from 2001 onwards and the earlier AQX from 1999-2001.

As far as we know there are no differences between the two engine codes but the only difference is the AYP engine is emission spec EU2/EU3 and AQX is D4 Standard.

All ibizas are drive by wire not matter the engine code.

They all have 5 speed O2J gear boxes.

Some have 220 or 225mm flywheels, to find out which your car has you have to find out the hard way and to remove the clutch unfortuneatly. This will tell you whether you need to fit a 220mm or 228mm clutch.
 
Nov 2, 2004
9,335
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South Wales
Chipping/Remapping

A chip/remap is the most common modifacation for the 1.8t. There are many companies with chips/remaps such as Custom Code, GIAC, APR, Neuspeed, REVO and Upsolute (Those are in no particlar order) I'll try to be as objective as possible here. Each are going to offer a significant power increase and choosing a chip can sometimes be a tough decision so you have to chose what fits your needs. First off try to get a ride in as many different chipped cars as possible so you can get a feel for each chip and its power delivery. I won't say who has the most power cause they are all close but I'll go over the benefits of each. APR has EMCS which basically lets you use your cruise control buttons to switch between different chipped modes, such as stock, chipped, valet, and race. They also have a lockout function, a fault code erase function. APR also has direct port programming as well now which means that the ECU is flashed with the chipped program through the cars on board diagnostic port. They have dealers throghout the country and also offer many other products such as exhausts and turbo upgrades. GIAC also has stock mode, a race program, and regular chipped program. GIAC currently has 2 ways in which they can chip your ECU. They can either install a socketed chip that contains 1 program or they can install a socket that contains multiple programs. IBE chip switch gives the owner of the car the ability to switch between stock, chipped, race, and valet I beleive with a small remote. GIAC has been around a very long time and they also have dealers thruout the country. GIAC also has done the programming for the K04 kit, and will be doing the upcoming Dubwerks turbo kit, so he also has other products out there. Upsolute is a nationwide firm but they do not have dealers through the country, instead they usually have a representative in the state itself who does their chipping. They do not use a socket and instead just reflash your chip with the chip program and resolder it to the board. They offer to return you to stock for dealer visits though. I'm Not positive but I think there is a small fee for this. Upsolute now also has a chip switch program for older 1.8t's and for AWD motor's. Another major chip tuner that has been around since the beginning of the watercooled tuning industry is Neuspeed. They also flash the chip the same way as Upsolute does so if the ECU is opened it's appearence remains stock. Neuspeed currently has chips for all 1.8t model's and they also offer a K04 upgrade for the B5 Passat's, Beetle and AWD Jetta's and Golf's. Neuspeed also is CARB exempt on all of their chips which no other chip manufactorer is. Meaning their chips are totally street legal. This is a big plus for people in states that are very strict when it comes to mods and warranties. REVO is a newer company in the tuning world but they seem to have an execellant product. REVO gives the ability to the cars owner to change settings on a chip if you pruchases their SPS device. This device lets you turn up the boost, advance timing this way you can tune your car for what you are doing. They also offer a program with a 3bar FPR as well as a 4bar FPR which is supposed to make more power. Those devices are optional and you can just purchase a regular chipped program from them if you do not feel comfortable nor have the desire to increase boost or advance timing.
http://www.giacusa.com
http://www.goapr.com
http://www.upsolute.com
http://www.neuspeed.com
http://www.revotechnik.com
http://www.custom-code.co.uk

Courtesy of VWVortex
 
Nov 2, 2004
9,335
0
South Wales
K03s Guide and Whats Needed

Please see here for the excellent how to written by anon & Olly20VT

http://www.seatcupra.net/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=320&Itemid=6

Below are the parts needed for the conversion..

k03s.jpg
 
Nov 2, 2004
9,335
0
South Wales
1.8t Acronyms

AIT – Sensor – This is a small sensor located in the intake manifold just after the throttle body. It is responsible for monitoring the intake temperature. It can get coated with oil, and can affect gas mileage, and a loss of power. It is common to remove it and clean it with alcohol, or electronics cleaner.

Boost Leak – View Block 032 with VAG Com. If Fuel Trims are Negative more than 5% in the load range there is a very good chance that there is a leak after the turbo. Visual inspection of clamps, hoses for a loose connection is the best way to look for leaks. A common place for leaks is at the entrance to the pancake pipe located in the passenger side fender. Also the small line on the DV can rip.
Fuel Trim Details Here - http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-c....html

CAI - Cold air intake

CTS – Coolant Temp Sensor – This part is prone to failure. 2002 and older vehicles had a bad coolant temp sensor from the factory that VW updated. It was a black sensor, and now the good one is referred to as a green top coolant temp sensor. Block 011 in the VAG COM can monitor coolant temp for erratic readings. This is a 7$ part. Do not change while engine is hot.

Diode - What does the Diode Mod do?
The MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor is what reads how much actual boost you are making It sends that signal to the ECU (engine control unit). Once the data that the MAP has collected has been sent to the ECU, it then compares it to the specified boost that the car is supposed to be making (this is one parameter a chip modifies among many others). If the ACTUAL boost is over the SPECIFIED boost then the ECU puts the car into LIMP MODE. This is an attempt to stop you from damaging the turbo or anything else.

The DIODE(s) is connected to the correct wire(s) in the MAP sensor wiring harness. The MAP sensor sends signal to the ECU is voltage increments (so for 10PSI there is a corresponding voltage that is sent to the ECU when the MAP is reading 10 PSI).

The MAP sends 4.7 volts to the ECU when it’s reading 17 PSI and 4.3 volts when it’s reading 11 PSI. Once the diode(s) (whichever size you chose) is connected to the correct wire(s), the MAP sensor continues to read the actual boost that the turbo is producing and sends the voltage signals to the ECU corresponding to the amount of boost its reading, UP UNTIL THE VOLTAGE THAT THE DIODE IS INTENDED FOR. (For example...if you have the 4.7v diode in the MAP will send the voltage signal to the ECU up until its sending 4.7v...once it hits 4.7 volts it will keep sending 4.7 volts instead of sending the ACTUAL voltage for the ACTUAL amount of boost the sensor is reading which would be greater then 4.7 voltages, which would ordinarily without a diode installed, send the ECU into limp mode).

Therefore, it "tricks" the ECU into thinking it is only making 17PSI (because that is what the 4.7 volt diode clamps the MAP sensor at) instead of seeing what the turbo is actually making. Since the ECU is receiving signal from the MAP sensor showing that the turbo is only making 17 PSI (with the 4.7v diode in), which is what the specified boost is for a chipped ECU, THEN THE ECU WILL NOT PUT THE CAR INTO LIMP MODE - AKA, you can run as much boost as you want without hitting limp mode!
-courteousy Spooled_AWP


Quick run down:

4.3v diode will clamp at 11psi

4.7v diode will clamp at 17psi

5.1v diode will clamp at nothing as its over 5v


Diode is said not to work on the 20ths

DV - Diverter Valve

ECU – The ECU is responsible for nearly all functions on the car. If the ECU is suspected as a bad part, you need to use a scan tool such as a VAG com to attempt to communicate with the ECU. If you can’t communicate with the ECU, then the ECU needs replacement. Check all electrical connections. Check your Fuses for blown fuses. Whatever killed the ECU might kill the new one.
ECU removal procedure - http://www.goapr.com/VW/suppor...a.pdf

IC - Intercooler

Immobilizer – These cars are equipped with immobilizers to prevent theft. If you swap an ECU without matching up the ECU and the cluster, it will start briefly and then die repeatedly. There are 2 kinds of immobilizer. Immo II used on pre 2002, and Immo III used on 2002+. Immobilizer and ECU info can be found on the VAG COM Site.
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-c....html
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-c....html
If swapping an engine into a car without an immobilizer/cluster, you can get software for swaps from REVO, and Dahlback that remove the immobilizer.

Ignition Coils – These are famous parts for the 1.8T they are very prone to failure. VW has had a recall on these because they were failing rapidly on 2001+ cars. To check for bad coils the best way is with a VAG COM. Log Blocks 015, and 016. This will be a misfire counter. Drive the car or let it run, and look for misfires. If you have a bad coil you will see the counter increase on a cylinder. If you have one counting up then it’s probably a bad coil. Turn off engine and take that coil out and swap it with another coil. The cylinders read left to right 1,2,3,4 when looking at the engine from the front. Use the VAG again to see if the misfires have also swapped to another cylinder. If it moved, then you have a bad coil. Replace it. If they do not move, then you likely have a plug problem. On some cars the ignition coils have problems and they will pop up out of the cylinder head and lose contact with the plug. Plugs should be torqued to 22 ft-lbs when changed.


Two Coil Versions:

3pin (Found on AEB motors, and others of that era) - require external ignitor

4pin (Found on all recent motors 2000+) - ignitor is built into the coil itself

Limp Mode – These cars are designed to protect themselves from engine damage. If the engine boosts too much, or the engine does not get enough fuel it will go into a limp mode where boost is limited to protect the engine. It limits boost by controlling a solenoid on the wastegate line (N75), by closing the electronic throttle or by opening the DV valve. If you are experiencing a limp mode the best thing to do is get the car scanned for codes and to see what is wrong. Look at fuel trims for signs of running lean, and to look for MAF problems, or O2 sensor problems. To look for potential boost problems log Block 115 and you can see the specified Vs actual boost. If you exceed the specified then there is a good chance that you will go into this limp mode. Stock specified is a max of 14 psi for a 2002+ car.

MAP - The MAP sensor is located in the OE SMIC end tank. There are two different sized MAP sensors, and VW didnt make the transition based on years but cars from all years might have either the small or large version (rumor has it the small version didnt come around till ~2003). When your upgrading your intercooler to a larger SMIC or FMIC and need to specify which MAP sensor your car is running the only fool proof way to check which sensor your car has. If you are making custom piping and need a MAP sensor flange check out 42nd Draft Design for a universal solution.
Rule of Thumb appears to be:
2002 and earlier cars = large MAP
2003 and later cars = small or large MAP

MAF - Mass air flow meter is used to measure the air going into the engine. It is located on the outlet of the airbox, and housed in a cylindrical tube. The ECU reads the MAF signal, and injects fuel in proportion to the airflow. There are a few different ways the MAF can fail. The MAF can get coated with oil, and will not read properly. This is common if it happens right after installing a CAI, or a K&N filter. It can be cleaned out with 99% isopropyl alcohol, or a quality electronics cleaner. Remove the sensor from the housing and clean the sensor element.
MAF sensors also go bad due to too much airflow. On a car with a larger turbo the airflow is so high that the MAF element will get burned out from the excess air flow. It is common to increase the size of the housing to prevent this (other modifications required).
To check for a BAD MAF the best way is with a VAG com. Block 002 show air mass from the sensor. At idle the air flow should be 2-4 grams/second. With a wide open throttle run to redline the reading should show up to 170 g/s on a chipped car. Look for jumpy readings in the MAF, which can indicate a problem. More details here http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-c....html if you suspect your MAF is bad, one way to test it is to unplug the MAF, often if the MAF is giving false readings and upsets the fueling. If you unplug it, the ECU will ignore the MAF and run off of baseline tables. Be careful, as a boost leak or a vacuum leak can be miss-diagnosed as a bad MAF, because they will throw off the readings on the MAF. (Air sneaks around the MAF).
Quote, originally posted by WhiteG60 »
Basiicly the problem with MAF's is that VW and some/all of the OEMs run the PCV back into thei ntake tract or you're running a K&N filter or another cotten/guaze/oil filter and a film builds up on the maf element because of the oil from the PCV or from the filter. If you run a catch can, and run a paper or foam filter, and make sure the intake tract is dry you will most likely have a very very reliable maf. Most maf failures are not even failures. Its the element being dirty/oily. If people would clean them with alcohol or the CRC MAF cleaner at the FIRST SIGN of it being dirty, or hell, even if you just do it every time you change your oil or during your maintenance regement, you'd be hard pressed to ever have to replace it.


MBC – Manual Boost Controller. Often people want more boost from their car, and use a MBC. While MBC’s can get you more boost they will cause a jerky part throttle driving, and can cause over boost, often put the car into a limp mode. The way a MBC works is by bleeding off air from the wastegate control line. A wastegate is a mechanical flapper valve in the turbocharger that opens to allow exhaust gas to sneak around the turbo. By bleeding off air from the line, the wastegate opens less, more exhaust goes through the turbo, and you get more boost.
Great details on MBC here - http://www.boostvalve.com/tech/1.8T-DBW.html
And general Turbo/Wastegate details here http://www.streetracersonline....e.php

N75 – The N75 is an electronic solenoid valve that the ECU uses to control boost. It is located in the intake hose near the back right side of the engine. It has 3 connections.
1. Connects to charge pipe = pressure source
2. Connects to wastegate actuator
3. Connects to intake hose – bleed line.
The ecu will pulse this valve at a high frequency to bleed air off from the wastegate line. It does this based on throttle position and engine load. If the valve, or any of the liens connected to it have leaks then there can be severe boost regulation problems. It’s function is similar to the MBC above. To get more boost people often swap in different N75 valves. These different valves simply have a different response characteristic, and will act different when given the same signal by the ecu. They can get more boost, less boost, or even a big boost spike by swapping N75’s.

PCV - Positive Crankcase Ventalation

TB – The throttle on these cars is drive by wire, it is an electronic throttle with a wire attached. Most common TB problem just requires adaptation, or cleaning out with carb cleaner. This procedure shows how to do a TBA. TBA can improve idle, and part throttle operation. http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-c....html. To clean the TB remove it, and spray inside with carb cleaner. Wipe out the residue that gets built up in there. NEVER port a TB on a 1.8T it won’t idle properly.

TIP - Turbo inlet pipe
 
Nov 2, 2004
9,335
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South Wales
Engine Bay Hoses

Normally replaced by silicone hoses

Vacuum hoses - 3 or 4mm ID - personal preference
DV Connection - 25mm on both sides
PCV pipe work - 19mm
Elbow off side of manifold to brake servo - 90degree 12mm (check)
MAF elbow - 45degree 70mm elbow
Crankcase breather elbow - 90 degree 19mm
Majority of coolant lines are 19mm
Top header tank connection 8mm
Lower Header tank - 15mm (check)
N75 connections - 8mm
 
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L.R.C.

Active Member
May 21, 2007
234
0
Engine Code Info

Engine codes are AYP from 2001 onwards and the earlier AQX from 1999-2001.

As far as we know there are no differences between the two engine codes but the only difference is the AYP engine is emission spec EU2/EU3 and AQX is D4 Standard.
With the same identification letters "AYP", there are two engine types that are distinguished by the impurity stage: EUII stage, is fitted with the engine control unit, parts reference -6K0 906 032 AQ- and code 04500. EUIII stage, is fitted with the engine control unit, parts reference -6K0 906 032 AA- and code 10500
 

L.R.C.

Active Member
May 21, 2007
234
0
In workshop manual for seat there are 2 types of 02J trans for the cupras.

one for the AQX motor with code EDT and one for the AYP motor with code EWP

Code:
[LEFT]Code letters		EDT
Correspondence	Type	Ibiza, Córdoba 1999 ►
	Engine	1.8 l 20v - 115 kW
Gear ratio: Z2 : Z1	Final drive	61 : 18 = 3.389
	1st gear	33 : 10 = 3.300
	2nd gear	35 : 18 = 1.944
	3rd gear	34 : 26 = 1.308
	4th gear	35 : 34 = 1.029
	5th gear	36 : 43 = 0.837
	6th gear	-
	Reverse	17:10 x 36:20 = 3.060
	Speedometer	13 : 22 = 0.591
		
		
Code letters	EDT	
Filling amount	2.0 litres	
Specification	Gear oil API GL4 SAE 75W90, in accordance with standard TL 521 57 (synthetic oil) 	
Clutch actioning	hydraulic	
Clutch plate Ø	220 mm	
Drive shaft flange Ø	100 mm	
ltotal in top gear	2.837

----------------------------------------------------------------

Code letters		EWP
Correspondence	Type	Ibiza, Córdoba 1999 ►
	Engine	1.8 l 20v - 115 kW
Gear ratio: Z2 : Z1	Final drive	61 : 18 = 3.389
	1st gear	33 : 10 = 3.300
	2nd gear	35 : 18 = 1.944
	3rd gear	34 : 26 = 1.308
	4th gear	35 : 34 = 1.029
	5th gear	36 : 43 = 0.837
	6th gear	-
	Reverse	17:10 x 36:20 = 3.060
	Speedometer	13 : 22 = 0.591
		
		
Code letters	EWP	
Filling amount	2.0 litres	
Specification	Gear oil API GL4 SAE 75W90 in accordance with standard TL 521 57 (synthetic oil) 	
Clutch actioning	hydraulic	
Clutch plate Ø	225 mm	
Drive shaft flange Ø	100 mm	
ltotal in top gear	2.837	
[/LEFT]
 

Mat

Guest
Mk3 Ibiza FAQ Thread!

For all the lazy ass users and newbies that either dont know how to search, what serach means or just can't be bothered to search. This is the thread for you.

(could a mod pin this)

Below you will see a list of links to all threads that may answer questions you may have. As you can appreciate, a lot of the regulars here answer the same questions over and over again, which is why they ask you to search first.

By no means have a read through all of these post thoroughly. Oh, and I've basically just posted the links with most posts, but if you can do a better job, then please feel free to do so:p

Right, let's go

Firstly, you might wanna check this thread out
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=121766
(PhilW and others have obviously gone to a lot of effort to complie that. So please use it)

HIDs
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=149681

Fitting HIDs is easy as pie, but if you have problems, check this thread
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=104059

LCR Splitter
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=149301
(BTW - They're about £20 from stealers)

Sub & Amp Install
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=135923

Coilovers
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=152552

after fitting, you might want to read this
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=159776

Spacers
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=146660

Remaps
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=83750

Outside Temp Sensor
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2375

N249 Bypass
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=106707

N249 Resistors (and N112)
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=150144

Catch Tanks
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=134637

Which Turbo?
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=151324
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=149590

Turbo Timers
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=28042

Induction Kit
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=159686
(Forbez provides a great list of pros and cons)

Hub Adapters
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=75722
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=159670

Aero Wipers
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=148307
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=147149

Badgeless Grills
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=131257

Fitting Aftermarket Stereo
http://www.seatcupra.net/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=467&Itemid=6

-----

Not sure what else to add. If it aint in the list, by all means search for it!

Cheers to Myki for help and suggestions for some topics. If other, experienced members want to contribute, please do!

Could a mod sticky this;)

Oh, and once again. If all the links above aren't good enough, don't moan! At least I know how to use the search function :cartman:
 
Last edited by a moderator:

boom boom boom

Guest
what a thread its class...definitely looking at them aero wiper blades great website!!
 
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