The Ultimate guide to fitting component speakers / removing door cards.

Rampage

Trainee Northener
May 24, 2003
1,033
2
You should use the following guide as seen on here before, but bear in mind my notes further down to make it a simple job.
If you follow my advice it turns a very fiddly job into a easy job.

Door Card Removal Links

Front

Back


These notes are to be added to the Steps in the guide above.

Step 1

There is a slot on the lock side of the door handle strip, it has a slot underneath to insert something to remove it (I used a flat screwdriver with tape over it).
There is also a lost on the speaker cover.

Step 2
There is a tab at the pointed end. Prise it off from this.
When refitting, push it in at the bottom end first (the side nearest the door handle strip).

Step 4
Lower the window (while the glass is taped to the door) as far as you want, as long as the clamps aren’t near the glass it’ll be fine.

Step 5
The bolt pictured at the bottom of the speaker hole doesn’t exist on UK models.
If you look at the blue circle in the guide on the page where it shows what screws to remove. The plastic you need to snap off so the door card will come off with out taking the lock out is BLACK not white. The white part is the door lock casing. If you look at the lock you can see a black lug that comes from the door card and goes into the white lock casing. Insert a flat screw driver and prise the black lug out of the white lock casing. As it’s made from GF Nylon it will probably snap (which makes refitting much easier).
If it doesn’t snap consider removing it anyway.

You should disconnect the door lock cable at the door handle end. If you remove it at the door lock end it’s very fiddly to get it back in (and you need special tools to remove the door lock).
To remove the cable you pull back the plastic clip and unhook it. You will probably also need to unclip the cable from the door card.
The window runners need to be removed from the door card before you can remove it. They are just clipped in, so a bit of force should remove them, the clips will probably break but this doesn’t matter.
You will need to unclip the window runner cable from the door card.


Speakers
See this guide HERE for the 165mm speaker, using modified 3103 adaptors and a water guard if needed.

For the tweeter undo the small torx screws (I used a small screwdriver) on the reverse of the interior door handle and unclip, you need to pull it out in a certain direction.
To remove the tweeter prise it out with a small screwdriver on the (what looks like) melted plastic part.
You can then fit your new tweeter, fixing it either by using a hot glue gun or using a piece of wire (the earth from 2.5mm T+E mains ring is good) through the 2 clips either side of the tweeter going across the back of the tweeter to hold it in place.
The crossover can be fitted just below the 165mm speaker, using the bolt hole (mentioned above) that isn't used.
Or you can wedge it in between the 165mm speaker hole and the inside edge of the storage compartment.
The door handle can the be push back into the door card in the correct direction and screwed back on.


Refitting

To make it much easier, the metal lugs that hold the runners to the door card (AFAIK they were only there to make building the car easier in the factory) can either be ground off or bent back into the cut-outs on the runner. This will save a lot of time refitting. If you do bend them back then be aware that it can create a lump of metal on the reverse of the runner which will interfere with the window mechanism. If this happens bend it back out and angle it away from the side that the runner travels on (the outer side, I think).
If the window judders about halfway down when it’s refitted then it’s the lumps mentioned above.
Re-clip the window cable onto the door card. If you clip the right one in then the other will be held in place.
You then put the runner into the door card, connect all cables (door handle) etc. Position the door card on the window seal at the top make sure everything is in place and push the door card down to seat the clips.
If you put your hand through the holes in the door card you should then be able to position the window runners so they line up with the bolt holes and bolt them in place.

If you don’t remove the lugs on the runners you have to clip the runners onto the door card (while the runners are in the door) before the door card is fitted in place which is the hard part (sounds easy!). They then normally come out when you mount the door card onto the door, making removal necessary again. There isn’t enough room to clip them in while the door card is mounted. Lining up the runners with the bolt holes is also harder when it’s clipped in for some reason.



I fitted Infinity 65.5cs speakers, good sound quality but you really need a sub for it to sound good because they have less bass than the standard speakers!

Please Sticky.
 
Last edited:

steliosh

Guest
Indeed the ultimate guide!
Thanks to this, I successfully replaced the left outside mirror of my Leon II FR DSG!

Thank you very much!!!!!
 

Rampage

Trainee Northener
May 24, 2003
1,033
2
Was something posted here and then deleted?
As I had an email to say it was?
 

djnemesis

Active Member
Aug 17, 2008
62
1
Man I wish I'd seen this before I attempted mine :-S

I managed to do the driver side but still can't get the panel back on the passenger side.
 

djnemesis

Active Member
Aug 17, 2008
62
1
Just completed the job and got the passenger side back on - I agree with the comment about getting a sub though - I used the 165mm speaker connection to power both the tweeter and the woofer using the crossover - Do you know if there is a crossover already built in to the HU ?

The down side is I did not see this guide until I had done the drivers side - May need to get a new trim but hey it's a learning process...
 

DaveP

Small Member
Oct 3, 2001
1,075
0
Wiltshire
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The guides are totally accurate. What I would add (well clarify) is that these door designs dont have anything like the old style poppers where you have to pull the panel off - you just have to twist the panel out (the guide says this - but I expected the old poppers).

I am a muppet with these things and the first door took ages (probably 3hr including gluing in the new tweeter and crossover). First rear door took probably 2hrs. Second rear door only took 1hr. Finally the last front door took less than 2hrs.
 

Arnout

Guest
I wanted to install my component set tonight but my fears came true.
The tweeter grid is not open. The grid is closed.

Does anyone know I if can order new ones at the dealer?

The product numer on my grid/dooropener plastic is: 5p0839114 (186004591)

Thanks from the netherlands
Arnout
 
I wanted to install my component set tonight but my fears came true.
The tweeter grid is not open. The grid is closed.

Does anyone know I if can order new ones at the dealer?

The product numer on my grid/dooropener plastic is: 5p0839114 (186004591)

Thanks from the netherlands
Arnout

you should be able too. ETKA shows the following:

5P0839114 door inner operating lever.

1GZ silver
1MM persia black
1UQ persia black
 

Arnout

Guest
Is there a picture included with that number?
the 5p... number is displayed on the inner side of the closed tweeter grid

Are there different numbers in etka for the various doors?
RH-F RH-R
LH-F LH-R

Thanks again
Arnout
 
yes there are diffent numbers, but any dealer will be able to get it for you when you order it from them
you need to give year of car and wether your car is 6 speaker or 8 speaker version and possibly VIN number
 

Arnout

Guest
I will visit the local dealer tomorrow and ask them.

Thank you for your assistance Toxic
 

Arnout

Guest
Well visited our friendly neighbouhood stealer.

For each doorhandle with open tweeter grid: 43eur x 4 = 152eur (~132GBP)
I'm willing to spend some money to have something right but this much... no way.

So I desgined a circle pattern with 25 1.5mm holes.. drill... done
 
Big thanks for this guide and the additional notes. I've just replaced my door mirror and it was less problem than I expected.

Thought I'd pass on a tip: The retaining lugs on the windows runners- if you don't want to cut them off or risk folding them in and creating the 'bumps' on the runner that interfere with the window, fold them the other way instead (away from the cutouts), That's what I did and it all seems fine, the door fits, and the window works.

One other note- the black or white plastic you have to break off by the door lock was white on my car, not black as mentioned in Rampage's notes. Also, when refitting the bolts at the bottom that hold the panel to the window regulator, fit the outside end one first so you can get your hand past the inside one.
 

Carr20vt

Full Member
Dec 18, 2003
952
0
South Wales
Visit site
Need to get the front door card removal guide in the link above but it doesn't seem to work for me. It opens but the page is blank. Can someone else try it for me and possibly email it to me at carr20vt @ tiscali.co.uk (without the gaps). Thanks. :)
 

Rampage

Trainee Northener
May 24, 2003
1,033
2
It works fine.
It needs Adobe Reader, have you got it installed?
If you have got it installed then give it a minute or so to download the page.
 

Carr20vt

Full Member
Dec 18, 2003
952
0
South Wales
Visit site
It works fine.
It needs Adobe Reader, have you got it installed?
If you have got it installed then give it a minute or so to download the page.

Yes got Adobe, in work it just says its encountered a problem and needs to close and at home the page is just blank even after 5mins?? Any chance you can email it to me please Rampage.
 

Rampage

Trainee Northener
May 24, 2003
1,033
2
No idea then.
I've visited the webpages (the guides were not written by me) and saved them, and sent them to you.
Although I'm not convinced they'll work if they didn't work from the link.
 

PasiK

Guest
Does anybody happen to have these files saved?
Because the links doesn`t work anymore.
 

Rampage

Trainee Northener
May 24, 2003
1,033
2
Possibly.
I'll have a look when I get home.
Send me a PM at the end of the week if I forget.
 
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