Leon fr intercooler

Dowson1993

Active Member
Jan 20, 2017
81
0
Anyone got a link to or know of a guide for the intercooler removal on a pd150 leon fr bloody pipe connectors snapped on passenger side and letting the boost pipe slip so needs replacing


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chriswales6

Active Member
Mar 2, 2016
294
47
The boost connectors failing on the PD150 seem to be a common problem.

Sorry can’t help with a guide but I have seen them held together with self tapping screws, a lot cheaper than a new set of hoses.
 

Dowson1993

Active Member
Jan 20, 2017
81
0
This is my second fr last one was the actual pipes failing was all replaced with dark side boost pipes this time it’s the plastic shroud on the intercooler side of the connector that’s snapped and is letting the boost pipe slip was found when the pipe was replaced as the lugs were worn which was initially thought to be the issue

For the minute it’s heat shrunk in place with steel tie wraps holding it in place but I’ve had to replace this 3 times now got a new intercooler coming tomorrow anyway

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Last edited:

Connorg115

Active Member
Aug 29, 2017
397
66
United Kingdom
Hi, I had the exact same problem with my pd130 fabia vrs, was pretty easy to get to!

IIRC It was front bumper off, headlight out, ducting for intercooler off, unbolt and then put it back together in reverse order haha

Really badly designed pipe work for the PD’s

96649282099fb7f616d3f7eee6b2264b.jpg
 

Dowson1993

Active Member
Jan 20, 2017
81
0
Yeah pipe work is a terrible design and so easily damaged lol


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Thai-wronghorse

Self proclaimed Cupra R addict & butcher!
Dec 3, 2015
2,195
1,037
Kent
As mentioned above, unfortunately it's extremely common on these engines and a particular crap design.
I've owned many now and every single one has shown wear on the intercooler pipework joints.
It's quite unusual for the actual intercooler to break even though it's plastic.
It's normally the post alloy bayonet connectors that have basically dissolved.

To remove the intercooler its not particularly difficult but quite laborious as you need to unbolt the entire front end.
So bumper off, headlights out, the A.C. will need to be discharged.
Some people remove the entire rad pack at once but it's bloody heavy so unbolt it from the slam panel so you can pull it away from the rad pack separately.
Just be careful to support the weight if it with an axle stand or similar or you'll end up breaking pipes etc.
Once that's out you can unbolt the condenser followed by the intercooler.
The intercooler is essentially sandwiched between the condenser and radiator & fans so there are a few torx bolts on both sides of it.
The condenser also has one beneath the dryer pipe as well facing the ground.

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Dowson1993

Active Member
Jan 20, 2017
81
0
As mentioned above, unfortunately it's extremely common on these engines and a particular crap design.
I've owned many now and every single one has shown wear on the intercooler pipework joints.
It's quite unusual for the actual intercooler to break even though it's plastic.
It's normally the post alloy bayonet connectors that have basically dissolved.

To remove the intercooler its not particularly difficult but quite laborious as you need to unbolt the entire front end.
So bumper off, headlights out, the A.C. will need to be discharged.
Some people remove the entire rad pack at once but it's bloody heavy so unbolt it from the slam panel so you can pull it away from the rad pack separately.
Just be careful to support the weight if it with an axle stand or similar or you'll end up breaking pipes etc.
Once that's out you can unbolt the condenser followed by the intercooler.
The intercooler is essentially sandwiched between the condenser and radiator & fans so there are a few torx bolts on both sides of it.
The condenser also has one beneath the dryer pipe as well facing the ground.

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Yeah had a few now last one the alloy bayonet that went but this one has cracked arround the hose clip the area that’s slotted it’s snapped at the top which is causing the flex that is causing this trouble pipe has already been replaced for a brand new pipe


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sockpuppet

Active Member
Apr 30, 2007
837
4
If you have to remove the front end, start sparaying WD40 or 3 in 1 oil on all the screws and bolts as they will be rusty and shear off, I had 4 snap on me while taking the front end off to replace the radiator.

+1 for the self tapping screws, I have screws in nearly all the joints of the turbo hoses.
 

Dowson1993

Active Member
Jan 20, 2017
81
0
My main thing was making sure to find all the screws and bolts that need to come out rather than remove try find another screw and just waste time but it’s all good sorted now just got the workshop manual off the internet as a download so got that now no issues gives me the fr front bumper removal


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Dowson1993

Active Member
Jan 20, 2017
81
0
Well that jobs on hold since it decided to snow in cornwall today


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