Breaking in techniques - Please read the first 2 pages before making assumptions
- Thread starter joehirth
- Start date
just to revive this for when i run mine in 
quoted from IbizaAlex
Using Millers running in oil, run the car to operating temp, then allow to cool. First 5 mins are run at 1500 rpm to circulate the oil through the turbo etc.
I should prime the engine to get oil pressure to everything, as in with the injectors and coilpacks unplugged, until i see oil pressure
Then run the engine with the car stationary for 5 minutes at around 1500rpm to get everything lubed up, and then leave it to cool down.
Next warm the car up and drive for 20 miles. Give the car full throttle, but only rev to the peak torque area. Do this through all gears. Just run actuator pressure. Drop oil and filter the fill with fresh running in oil.
What rpm would you recommend to stay below for this period?? and do i achieve actuator pressure by removing the N75 valve?? Do this for 20 miles, then dump the run in oil, and re fill with more run in oil and a clean filter...
Run in the engine for the next 300 to 400 miles driving it hard, but still on actuator pressure. Drop oil and fill with fully synthetic comp oil. Up the boost and enjoy.
Should this be a case of driving as in the previous step, with harsh acc and engine braking with load applied frequently??
Sorry for trying to make it as simple to understand as possible, but after spending thousands making the engine solid id like to make it run in to be 100% spot on
Thanks
quoted from IbizaAlex
Using Millers running in oil, run the car to operating temp, then allow to cool. First 5 mins are run at 1500 rpm to circulate the oil through the turbo etc.
I should prime the engine to get oil pressure to everything, as in with the injectors and coilpacks unplugged, until i see oil pressure
Then run the engine with the car stationary for 5 minutes at around 1500rpm to get everything lubed up, and then leave it to cool down.
Next warm the car up and drive for 20 miles. Give the car full throttle, but only rev to the peak torque area. Do this through all gears. Just run actuator pressure. Drop oil and filter the fill with fresh running in oil.
What rpm would you recommend to stay below for this period?? and do i achieve actuator pressure by removing the N75 valve?? Do this for 20 miles, then dump the run in oil, and re fill with more run in oil and a clean filter...
Run in the engine for the next 300 to 400 miles driving it hard, but still on actuator pressure. Drop oil and fill with fully synthetic comp oil. Up the boost and enjoy.
Should this be a case of driving as in the previous step, with harsh acc and engine braking with load applied frequently??
Sorry for trying to make it as simple to understand as possible, but after spending thousands making the engine solid id like to make it run in to be 100% spot on
Thanks
millers cro 10w40 is fine for motor lapping?
http://www.millersoils.net/1_Millers_frame_MOTORSPORT.htm
http://www.millersoils.net/1_Millers_frame_MOTORSPORT.htm
Using Millers running in oil, run the car to operating temp, then allow to cool. First 5 mins are run at 1500 rpm to circulate the oil through the turbo etc.
I should prime the engine to get oil pressure to everything, as in with the injectors and coilpacks unplugged, until i see oil pressure - Yep. Also gets oil primed to the turbo. Its also worth filling the oil filter up with oil before you fitted.
Then run the engine with the car stationary for 5 minutes at around 1500rpm to get everything lubed up, and then leave it to cool down. - Just get it to temp and check for leaks and make sure the water has fully made its way round.
Next warm the car up and drive for 20 miles. Give the car full throttle, but only rev to the peak torque area. Do this through all gears. Just run actuator pressure. Drop oil and filter the fill with fresh running in oil.
What rpm would you recommend to stay below for this period?? and do i achieve actuator pressure by removing the N75 valve?? Do this for 20 miles, then dump the run in oil, and re fill with more run in oil and a clean filter... - Dont really need to stick to a certain rev range. You will feel the car get to the point where it wants to shoot off. Dont remove the N75, just inplug the electrical connector
Run in the engine for the next 300 to 400 miles driving it hard, but still on actuator pressure. Drop oil and fill with fully synthetic comp oil. Up the boost and enjoy.
Should this be a case of driving as in the previous step, with harsh acc and engine braking with load applied frequently?? - Yep, but with increased revs and some runs up to redline area.
I should prime the engine to get oil pressure to everything, as in with the injectors and coilpacks unplugged, until i see oil pressure - Yep. Also gets oil primed to the turbo. Its also worth filling the oil filter up with oil before you fitted.
Then run the engine with the car stationary for 5 minutes at around 1500rpm to get everything lubed up, and then leave it to cool down. - Just get it to temp and check for leaks and make sure the water has fully made its way round.
Next warm the car up and drive for 20 miles. Give the car full throttle, but only rev to the peak torque area. Do this through all gears. Just run actuator pressure. Drop oil and filter the fill with fresh running in oil.
What rpm would you recommend to stay below for this period?? and do i achieve actuator pressure by removing the N75 valve?? Do this for 20 miles, then dump the run in oil, and re fill with more run in oil and a clean filter... - Dont really need to stick to a certain rev range. You will feel the car get to the point where it wants to shoot off. Dont remove the N75, just inplug the electrical connector
Run in the engine for the next 300 to 400 miles driving it hard, but still on actuator pressure. Drop oil and fill with fully synthetic comp oil. Up the boost and enjoy.
Should this be a case of driving as in the previous step, with harsh acc and engine braking with load applied frequently?? - Yep, but with increased revs and some runs up to redline area.
Think this thread should be made "Sticky" - could be a lot of use to future users that want to break in their engines...
well that dreaded time has come to run the engine in... ive done step one and warmed it up, now coming to actually driving it, will unplugging the N75 mean that the engine runs actuator pressure on an aftermarket ecu? i understand it will on oem ecu but just want to confirm it will on an aftermarket model, and possibly what pressure i should be seeing for a GT2871RS
Thankings
Thankings
Could you set a running in low boost map on the ECU? Or do you not have access to it to program?
Is the N75 your only boost controller? Surely the aftermarket ECU would be mapped to use the N75 as a boost controller, if not then basically switch off your after market boost controller. Alternatively (someone will have to say if this is right) but could you not just pull off the vacuum pipe to the actuator, wouldn't it just run crack pressure then?
This will give bad results. You will get boost and lots of it!
Just run with a pipe going from the charge pipe to the actuator.
im running it with the n75 removed and it seems to be holding off big boost so i reckon thats the winner and answered my own query
Im well excited to open it up now though... only another several hundred miles to go :/
Im well excited to open it up now though... only another several hundred miles to go :/
Nice info in this thread. I ran mine in last night as follows, with a couple of points I'd like to get people's opinions on...
1. The car was started ~5 minutes after all fluids were filled and left to idle for 10 minutes while getting everything up to temperature and letting the coolant fully circulate round the system.
2. Car switched off and left to cool overnight.
3. Car driven normally on 7 mile round trip in order to re-gas the air con and get an MOT (not ideal but necessary)
4. Once returned, car left to warm up for 5 minutes and then driven hard for 20 miles as per the above guide, accelerating for short bursts up the gears and then decelerating back down through the gears to load the engine, in cycles. On average changing at 4,000 RPM, sometimes building it up to 5,000. This was done on reduced boost - 1 bar peak.
My only concern is that it was left to idle for a total of around 20 minutes and driven 7 miles normally before I had the chance to open it up properly, and that the VPower in the tank is nearly 7 months old. Should that be of any concern?
Tonight we'll be dropping the oil for another refill of mineral oil before running it hard for 400-500 miles prior to another change to fully synth oil.
1. The car was started ~5 minutes after all fluids were filled and left to idle for 10 minutes while getting everything up to temperature and letting the coolant fully circulate round the system.
2. Car switched off and left to cool overnight.
3. Car driven normally on 7 mile round trip in order to re-gas the air con and get an MOT (not ideal but necessary)
4. Once returned, car left to warm up for 5 minutes and then driven hard for 20 miles as per the above guide, accelerating for short bursts up the gears and then decelerating back down through the gears to load the engine, in cycles. On average changing at 4,000 RPM, sometimes building it up to 5,000. This was done on reduced boost - 1 bar peak.
My only concern is that it was left to idle for a total of around 20 minutes and driven 7 miles normally before I had the chance to open it up properly, and that the VPower in the tank is nearly 7 months old. Should that be of any concern?
Tonight we'll be dropping the oil for another refill of mineral oil before running it hard for 400-500 miles prior to another change to fully synth oil.
Mine was stopped and started a good few times before I actually was able to run it in, loading on to the back of lorry's for respray etc.
The only real way to tell would be to do a compression test after.
The only real way to tell would be to do a compression test after.
Did it make any difference that you drove it those 7 miles first as ill need mine moting as soon as its rebult
I would of thought it will be fine, just take it very easy. Unless you can hire a trailer or get someone with a beaver tail transit or something to take you there.
sorry if i sound a bit dumb..........when running it in, will it be safe to give it some on my k03s stage 2 map?? surely the air/fuel mixture will be way out and could be harmful to the engine??
Similar threads
