Rear camber angle

Book settings for multi link suspension are :

Reference height 369mm ( Middle of wheel up to wheel arch )
Front Camber -0º 41' +/- 30'

Reference height 366mm ( Middle of wheel up to wheel arch )
Rear Camber -1º 10' +/- 30'

i think its normal .

All you can really hope to tell by looking is whether it's positive or negative. If it's worrying you, get it checked.

Titchy said:

Hi all,

Is this amount of rear camber normal?

First time I’ve noticed it since owning the car. It’s a 2015 1.8 fr with the rear multilink suspension.

Cheers


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It certainly looks like a lot of negative camber in the photo, is the other side the same? Also a very heavy load in the boot could cause this. I would advise keeping a lookout for excessive tyre wear.

My rears look the same as this, also a 1.8 but ST version.....

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Seeing that picture , something doesn't look right , first thing I'd do is jack car up check that wheel for any untoward movement due to worn bearings.

Before you get all twitchy over this, get the car on a flat surface and look again. That wheel seems to be on a raised area. That will compress the susp on that wheel and alter camber angles.
You'd have to have seriously worn suspension joints/bearings before the camber is changed noticeably.

Does the Cupra (265) have adjustable camber in the rear from stock?
I want to reduce the amount since I drive like a granny and that setup will surely eat up the tires

g_berserk said:

Does the Cupra (265) have adjustable camber in the rear from stock?
I want to reduce the amount since I drive like a granny and that setup will surely eat up the tires

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You could find that will make it tail happy when you really need it to stick. Suspension design and alignment specs are interdependent, if you alter one, you have to alter others to retain handling/steering balance. Not a job for some spotty faced oik at an alignment shop.

LouG said:

You could find that will make it tail happy when you really need it to stick. Suspension design and alignment specs are interdependent, if you alter one, you have to alter others to retain handling/steering balance. Not a job for some spotty faced oik at an alignment shop.

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Don't worry, I know my kung-fu, and actually prefer a tail-happy car than an understeering pig, I always set my cars to be as loose on the rear as possible without compromising safety, besides I wouldn't go overboard, and the rubber I'm using has some funky grip limits laterally and longitudinally so I would benefit from a more squared setup.

Only thing that makes me doubt a bit of a loose setup is the absence of a clutch pedal and the inability to shift the weight at will to avoid any sticky situation

By tail happy, I mean unpredictable, snap oversteer. Like the time my MX5 looped with no absolutely no warning and we ended up in the oncoming lane.
When my alignment guy checked it the next day, the rears were running 1 degree positive camber instead of negative. Set to his secret sauce settings it was as neutral as you liked, even sent a telegram if it was going to do something silly.

PS. Why do you need a clutch pedal to throttle steer?

LouG said:

By tail happy, I mean unpredictable, snap oversteer. Like the time my MX5 looped with no absolutely no warning and we ended up in the oncoming lane.
When my alignment guy checked it the next day, the rears were running 1 degree positive camber instead of negative. Set to his secret sauce settings it was as neutral as you liked, even sent a telegram if it was going to do something silly.

PS. Why do you need a clutch pedal to throttle steer?

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I'm familiar with snap oversteer, had experienced it on the streets and track (on purpose at times when required on short tracks and autocross), and if you catch it early on it can be lessened by throttle or clutch or a dance between both if needed to release some of the weight from the front.
While the clutch pedal is not absolutely needed to throttle steer, I rather have control of all of the possible variables to make the car do what I want rather than what it thinks it's needed. think it all comes down to personal drive style.

I don't track the Cupra, but I did all my previous cars, also Autocross (although due to the restricted spaces here, is closer to a slalom than a proper autocross) for several years so I know that the setup the car is running from stock works wonders for saving the company from a lawsuit if you overdrive the car, but the amount of toe-in and camber in the rear is unnecessary for the use I'm giving the car right now but it increase the wear on the rear tires.

Now, if I find that neither toe and camber can be adjusted without resourcing to camber screws, shims or any other resource, then it will negate the possibles "savings" in rubber wear and I will leave the thing alone.

Just rest assured that while I appreciate your concern on my safety and everyone in the motorway, I know a thing or two and wouldn't do anything to endanger me or my family who are with me 80% of the time the car is rolling.

The image above its a check+ adjustment of the wheel alignment on most of the cars. As you can see the camber on the rear axle is negative. In my opinion if the other side is the same like the one in your picture. U dont have to stress about it. But if you have unevenly tire wear . Go and ckeck it.


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