Diesel from a drum.....?

Andrewcupra TDI · Jul 22, 2009

ye im like a cat on hot bricks , just waiting for a phone call or an update , just cant wait now !

everythings been put on hold, until i know the car is running perfect again,

want to sort leds out , euro style plates , clutch & remap,

Andrewcupra TDI · Jul 22, 2009

ok its still not looking good , the pump hes used was out of a pd130 golf , are these the same as 150's ,

its not running tidy and doesnt seem to want to run past 2000 rpm , and its smoles coughs ans splutters , it sounds as though its fuel related but im no expert , ,

he is going to send his pump of for testing , and said hes unsure what to do next if its not the pump

cheers

glynnd · Jul 22, 2009

Has the engine been compression tested?
Could it have a bent rod?
I would think the 130 and 150 pump are the same.
Glynn

Andrewcupra TDI · Jul 22, 2009

not sure i will ask, mention about compression seemed there , whether you can hear this or tested i dont know

si-mate · Jul 22, 2009

I'm intrigued...why were you buying diesel from out of a drum?

Husbandofstinky · Jul 22, 2009

Dude. You have no luck.

Just remember Karma.

brightsideteeem · Jul 22, 2009

How much is all this costing mate? Are you sure you want to risk upgrading power and all that jazz?
I'd be fixing it and flogging it myself.
Get another one and do it right :shrug:

Muttley · Jul 22, 2009

Which pump is this, lift pump or tandem pump?

Have the rest of the fuel system pipes and components been flushed clear, including the head and the fuel cooler?

ChrisGTL · Jul 22, 2009

I would love to know what the contamination was.

Have you anymore of the fuel left?

Andrewcupra TDI · Jul 23, 2009

no sure if any fuel left il check, my old man reckons the millers must have reacted with the chlorine substances

i think hes flushed everything out , as hes had the tank completely off too ,

its the pump on the block not intank one (is it tandem )

by the sounds he hasnt compression tested yet as he is going to compression test it today now ,

if it has bent rods etc , im just going to buy a new engine ithink,

and no i dont have much luck at all with anything ,

it cost me over £1500 to repair my jetski 2yrs ago when i wrote that off !! id be better off walking

MarkWales · Jul 23, 2009

was it defo chlorine in the drums then andrew

Andrewcupra TDI · Jul 23, 2009

i think so ,

Andrewcupra TDI · Jul 23, 2009

ok i am weighing up my options , am assuming the worst here

would it be better if i upgraded stuff while engine is appart , i,e upgraded head gasket port n polish etc

as down the line if i keep the car i would prob go hybrid

not sure if this is the case yet mind just thinkin the worst - been as it always is with me !

cheers

brightsideteeem · Jul 23, 2009

Id be pricing up a new engine first mate. Seems to make more sense...
You done any engine mods to the one in the car atm?

If you have had it remapped, unlucky, unless you can transfer the ECU?, otherwise I'd unbolt it all, and get a new engine. You could clean all the new engine first aswell and make it all look spankin before its dropped in?

Just my 2p's worth, but might be the most economic way, rather than forking out loadsa wedge to TRY and fix it....

Andrewcupra TDI · Jul 24, 2009

thats what im thinking , but i guess ytou take a chance on buying a new engine that could be duff too,

i have read a few cam problems with th ARL's on the mkiv forums

but was thinking is there any upgrades i could do while engine / 's are out , i think i may aswell get the clutch changed whil its out ,

no mods appart from miltek & green panel filter which doesnt move anywhere,

i though my ECU would remain ,

brightsideteeem · Jul 24, 2009

i meant you could unbolt anything you have connected to your old engine, (exhaust, filter etc) and then drop a new engine in, and reconnect it it all back up, and you might be able to re-use the ECU so the map would remain on the car, if that makes more sense?

Best mods for engine out would be imho, clean and paint the block, clutch + flywheel, clean intake manifold, CAI, (remove snowscreen), drill and smooth the filter box, and clean and polish all the engine bay, and ancilary units such as the header tank, pump's etc, and if you could, replace all the OEM pipes with uprated silicone pipes. You could even look into fabricating a FMIC?

And possibly upgrade the brakes while its off the road at the same time, paint the calipers properly etc

Thats what I would do anyway :shrug:

Andrewcupra TDI · Jul 25, 2009

ye can do , it already has a front mount as std , an many threads suggest no point changing it unless mental power is in the pipeline, i would look at metal pipework,

thanks for input

are there benefits /possibilities if a head port and polish on a diesel ?? and are there much benefits of having done

cheers

S3 AKR · Jul 25, 2009

I'd just get it back to running as it should first. Then, and only then would I consider mods for it as you might be throwing good money after bad.

In terms of fuel pumps there are only 3 related items that I can see on ETKA.

038 145 101 B Vacuum Pump for AQM, AGR, ALH, AHF, ASV engines
038 145 209 N Fuel and vacuum pump - AQR engine
038 145 209 E Fuel and vacuum pump - ARL, ASZ engines

Andrewcupra TDI · Jul 25, 2009

S3 AKR said:
I'd just get it back to running as it should first. Then, and only then would I consider mods for it as you might be throwing good money after bad.

In terms of fuel pumps there are only 3 related items that I can see on ETKA.

038 145 101 B Vacuum Pump for AQM, AGR, ALH, AHF, ASV engines
038 145 209 N Fuel and vacuum pump - AQR engine
038 145 209 E Fuel and vacuum pump - ARL, ASZ engines

cheers are they whats refered 2 as the pd pump then the one attached to the side of block.

looks like their specific too

thanks guys

glynnd · Jul 25, 2009

I have one form a pd150 in full working order.
If required make me an offer!
Glynn

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