vario tdi se sort of restoration

Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
The mating surfaces of the cylinder if any thing seems a bit too smooth/vague in the tapered thread and although the drain bung is brand new it seems to have a very slight roughness to the edges at the peak of the tapered thread. The top/peak of the tapered thread has a land and the edges of the thread are rough if that is a good enough description. Barstole and flax wrap is a one method to seal it. Hope I described that properly. It's immaterial now anyway because I took the circuit diagram down to the plumbers merchant where I got the cyclinder from and he has highlighted the flaws in the heating system supply and lack of vent/overflow for the hot feed from the oil fired part of the heating system. So with that in mind and the fact that it would be a real pain for me to rework the pipe system myself I think I'll leave it to a plumber and get back to the car stuff. I'll elaborate a bit as to the problem with the circuitry. The hot supply from the oil fired system has no vent/overflow and the cold return is feed from the hot out from the hot water tank. Not ideal at all.

On another note I was on vagcat looking at the part numbers for the rear beam and found that it gave the same part number for a 2002 Ibiza rear beam with anti-roll bar and a 1999 cordoba rear beam with anti-roll bar. They are clearly different though. I found a website on detailing website where the guy was refurbishing a rear beam and components from a 2 ltr 8 valve Ibiza and the bushes look the same as mine and had an antiroll bar. The 02 Ibiza has a wider bush at the mounting point. Vagcat also gives the same stub axles for driums and discs and discs numbers for both models. I need to check my new stub axles out physically to see if they will actually fit.
 
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Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
BIG TRAK and TRAILER

The mother got me to clear out her attic and I got in touch with my childhood again when I found this.

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It wasn't working at all and investigation showed that the power switch wasn't making the circuit. Switch cleaning lubricant didn't do the job fully so it had to be stripped and soaked in the switch cleaner. Put it back together and it powers up but the program is caught in a loop. The trailer also needs a bit of work to get it to function and the wheels need new rubber o rings. Stickers are not too bad so I will be glad when I get it going.

Here's a few pictures of the hot water cylinder that I put in.

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It's not quite a perfect job in that the circuitry put in place by a previous installer is not correct and I've got a few weeps as I've said before. I got a plumber to give me an estimate to put in the proper feeds and vents etc and it was £411 for the work and an optional radiator flush and balance at £325. I had guessed that the rad flush would be about that but near dropped off when I seen the quote for the remedial work. Needless to say I feel another have a go hero episode coming on.

I got the new powerflex control arm front bushes put in through the week. It turned out that most of the play was caused by one of the standard seat bolts being eroded by the steel sleeve that goes through the centre of the bush. All new bolts were put in when the bushes were replaced the last time. I got photos this time so I'll put that in a different post, it's bedtime now me thinks.
 
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Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
Oh yes. That's my own from 1984 give or take. It stopped working probably sortly after my 10th birthday. I recognise my handy work and percieve that I had a go at repairing it before it was consigned to the attic but just didn't have the skill at that age. So one fault fixed and one to go. Was painting today. Rear bearings and brakes to swap over this week. Control arm bush job to post up. So the big trax can wait a wee minute. It's the auntie's 68th birthday this sunday so I'll whip up a couple of pavlovas and a cake. The big trax is about £30-40 I think in working order. The trailers are as rare as hens teeth so don't know really what they're worth. Hopefully they'll bring back some good memories when they're working and my two girls can have a bit of fun with them when they're going.
 
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Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
Typed up the control arm bush replacement with pictures but it timed me out and then lost the lot on me. Arrghhh. I need to type it up again when I can muster the strength.
 
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Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
front control arm bush refit

Okay, second attempt and as we all know the sequel is never as good as the first version.

Safety first.

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Chock the rear wheels. loosen the front roadwheel bolts. Jack up and support at the recommended support points with axle stands. Now remove the front road wheels. I kept the handbrake on and car in gear.

Next loosen off the drop link securing nut.

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Also the balljoint plate capture plate and bolts.

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Mark the position of the balljoint plate relative to the control arm with marker or paint before you do this.

I found it necessary to detach the strut from the hub carrier to get the balljoint plate to clear the end of the control arm.

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Reattach the strut temporarily once the plate is clear of the arm to take stress off the gearbox output flange and C.V. joints.

Loosen and remove the control arm pivot bolts. I had to use a pry bar to get them to come free of their resting places.

And arms out.

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Does this look like a bit of rot in the subframe? The hole opened up when I was rubbing it down with a wire brush wheel in a drill.

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Arms on the bench/doggy kennel.

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The rear bushes were in good working order and deemed fit for purpose so were masked off with masking tape. The front bushes virtually fell out of the arms.

I used the drill with a wire brush wheel to rub down scale, grime and rust.

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I also used a medium file and fine wet and dry sandpaper to remove rust scale deposits at the bush holding ring where the metal had swollen/scaled up. This was also performed on the subframe bush mating faces. I then put a few coats of hycote mat black on the arms and the subframe and allowed it to cure for twenty four hours.

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I then made a tap out of an old bolt and dressed the threaded holes that secure the arm pivot/securing bolts. This is not pictured.

The control arm bushes are worn.

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But I believe the majority of the movement was caused by the worn front pivot bolt. I suspect it was eaten away by a step on the inside of the steel sleeve that goes through the centre of the bush. The step isn't pictured.

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Of course a new compliment of bolts and nuts is used on re assembly.

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There are some photos for some stages not present due to usual time constraints and greasy hands etc.

The next step is to put the new bushes into the arms. Use copper grease when sliding the bush halves into the arm. I put grease on the faces of the bushes as well for when it rests in the subframe. I used threaded stud, washers and nuts to pull the centre sleeve in to the bush, greased of course, because all other methods resulted in one or the other bush halves sitting proud and potentially fouling on the subframe.

Prepare the subframe aperture for refit of the arm. What I mean when I say this is to create space for the arm to be inserted into its' resting place level or you'll be there all day and forever. To do this, disconnect the brake line securing bracket and detach the strut from the hub carrier and undo the strut top securing nut. Now remove the strut from the space and tie off or bungie the disc/caliper and hub carrier up out of the way. A rope up through the strut turret around the wing and through one of the hub carrier bolt holes and tie off. Put clothes between the wing surface and rope/bungie to prevent marring of the paint. I used a trolley jack and pry bar combination to force the anti-roll bar up out of the way also which had to be done delicately and with care but it will stay put if done correctly.

Make sure all spacer washers and collars are in place as per powerflex fitting instructions and the arms should now go in to position with relative ease by using a soft faced mallet and a podger. Insert the arm pivot/securing bolts and tighten loosely.

Release the hub carrier and locate the balljoint plate back in position with securing plate and bolts put in finger tight. Reattach the strut loosely. Reset the balljoint plate to it's previous position as marked up and torque up the securing bolts. Torque up the strut to hub carrier bolt/nuts. Now torque up the strut top securing nut. Reattach the brake flexy hose support bracket, tightened fully (no torque value available so use your common sense). Release the tension on the anti-roll bar. Do this for both sides.

Now locate the drop link and associated bushes and washers. Torque up the retaining nut.

Torque up and angle tighten the control arm rear securing bolt.

Put the front roadwheels on and tighten the securing bolts as much as possible. Remove the axle stands and lower the roadwheels onto a firm surface that permits access to tighten the front pivot bolts. Torque up the road wheel securing bolts. Shake the car to settle the suspension components. Now torque up the front pivot bolts and then angle tighten them. Recheck the strut top nut is torqued correctly.

That should be you good to go. Don't forget to remove the chock and tidy away your tools and equipment and check off that all securing fixtures have been torqued up. The wheel alignment will now need to be checked and adjusted. My steering wheel will need to be checked to see if it's centred because it was removed and repositioned when doing the steering column refurbishment. I set my camber at full negative for a laugh since I knew it would be getting reset and it looks like one of the Australian touring cars front camber. Grip in the dry seems better but the wet is possibly worse but no matter as the sports setting (camber/alignment) and new tyres will be getting done next weekend.

Torque values:-

Roadwheel securing bolts 110 Nm
Anti-roll bar connecting link retaining nut 25 Nm
lower arm balljoint plate retaining bolts 35 Nm
Lower arm front pivot bolt 50 Nm then angle tighten a further 90 degrees
Lower arm rear mounting bolt 70 Nm then angle tighten a further 90 degrees
strut to hub carrier bolt nut 95 Nm
strut upper mounting nut 60 Nm

I think that's all, hope you enjoyed. :)
 
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Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
passed MOT so lives for another year

I got her through the MOT with about 10 mins of loose time on my hands so no active pictures were taken of the preparation work. I'll just have to take pictures of the new stuff that's on it and post that up. The daughter, 7 years old, took a redgy and shook her wound down rear window which coincidently then failed to wind up. she is still alive and now I have one more job to do that I didn't before. The mate got me four brand new toyo proxes T1-R 195/50/15 for £140 which I was well chuffed with.

Does anyone have any experience or knowledge of retro fitting ABS to the mk2 Ibiza/cordoba? I realise about the looms and ABS cages and sensors but not to clued up on the pump type or control mechanism and how it affects the cars own ECU.
 

m0rk

sarcasm comes free
Staff member
May 19, 2001
27,787
33
Clanfield, UK
Independant from the car ECU, but requires a whole loom to be installed.

The pump is prohibitively expensive though...
 

Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
I was thinking that might be the case. Even a used one would probably need overhauled or a refurbished one would be expensive also. On the subject of brakes the old drums generated a greater braking force than the disc brake set up. Drums a solid 2 kN and discs 1.5 kN and 1.8 kN.
 

Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
The old drums are off

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Abigail's handy work which is I've still to address. Was doing other outdoor work this week with the good weather.

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The car did look pretty good as it had a half decent wash for the MOT.

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But the birds round our way just can't help themselves.

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And the new pressed in type bearings with associated stub axles and brake setup is a good job. The drone is gone and the exhaust gas temperatures are down showing the lower amount of effort required by the engine to propel the car. It also feels quicker above 60 mph. The brakes are also bled through.

The rears.

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The fronts. The set up looks good now.

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The new arms and rear bearing are in and I recentred the steering wheel before the steering wheel alignment was checked and set. The rear right wheel was out of specification in camber and toe. It is non adjustable and although I haven't got the printout from the previous alignment and don't remember the values I do remember that same wheel being out. I am conjecturing that the car has been stolen at some time in the past and the drivers side has been battered about the ring. I suggest this as the passenger side door barrel just spins and doesn't work. The driver door is a slightly different shade of white and the front off side wheel sits a wee bit further back in the arch than the front passenger side.

Oddly enough the car now feels unstable at speed now with the back end feeling a bit swingy if that makes sense. It obviously didn't feel like a great handling car before with the worn arm bushes and misaligned steering geometry but it did feel stable. It's merely an observation and not much to worry about as it needs all new suspension anyway.
 
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Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
Parts order

I removed the window from the cordoba and taped up the opening. The outer seal must have let water down to the inner guide channel, rusting it to bits, which has allowed the window to move and break one of the clips in the regulator mechanism. I couldn't find any repair kits on ebay so phoned the parts guy in the seat dealer in Lurgan and ordered a load of bits. Someone had obviously been at the door panel before when putting on the tint so second time in and being and old car things broke and needed replaced.

Parts order for window with Stephen.
12 Cover left outer. 6K4853267A * 1
11 Cover left inner 6K4839973A * 1
1 window winder mechanical left 6K4839401F * 1
6 channel left cario 6K0839065 * 1
14 panel screw N 0139694 * 1
16 washer N 90410702 * 1
3 hexagon head bolt N 01021226 * 2
15 washer N 0115476 * 2
17 gasket 6K0853724 not sure if handed * 1
18 no description (think I need it) 6K0837807 * 1
13 grommet (might need?) 191853615A * 4?

13 protectie foil for door 6K4867201 * 1
21 door handle screw m5 * 25 num unknown * 2
seal for solenoid is 068130139 * 1


I wanted to order new upper, inner and outer seals but the outer is no longer supported by seat so I didn't see any point in ordering any of them if I couldn't have all of them.

I had a wee burp from the engine and a CEL on at the start of the week so scanned it and got this.

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Monday, 15 June 2015, 09:33:08:31403
Control Module Part Number: 028 906 021 DK
Component and/or Version: 1.9l R4 EDC G00SG 0827
Software Coding: 00002
Work Shop Code: WSC 06402
VCID: 5BC96EC4DA3D
1 Fault Found:
01237 - Fuel Shut-Off Valve (N109)
04-10 - Mechanical Malfunction - Intermittent

So done an output test in the engine module section of Rosstech VCDS-Lite. The output test showed that the fuel cut off was functioning as required according to the output test procedural instructions. So I thought it'll be the sealing ring on the plunger that is to fault so ordered a new one and that way it should give less bother and shouldn't need looked at for another while when the seal is replaced. The diesel leak off pipes are cracking again and they are only on a month and a bit. The roles from seat are £20 or so for a 5m length which I don't really want 4m of pipe lying about for another load of years getting dusty and taking up space so I'll have to source a m or so from another garage than the one previously used.
 
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Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
I'm not an IT guy so left the laptop on for repair once it got outside my remit. On the wifes taptalk so no pics I'm afraid. I got the window regulator installed and some rust killed at the same time. She's going alright apart from the fact that I reversed into a low level bollard down out my line of sight. It can happen to the best of us. The damage was spiders web crack on the bumper, smashed tail light unit and no metal work damage so I can live with that. Picked up my remachined k03 turbine housing for my 1.8t audi a6. Just need to build it up with the k04 compressor side and get it threw in.
 
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Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
Haven't done a terrible lot to the cordoba itself as I've been busy in other areas. One of those areas was baking for my step father's 70th birthday. Four pavlovas, one chocolate cake, two Victoria sponge and a 7" by 14" birthday cake later for one weekend and I was busted. I've still to fit the taillights of which I got a matched used pair so I wouldn't have to mess about with smoked lenses. Also the starter motor has made a wee noise and grumbled from time to time this last eight months or so and with the cold weather really kicking in here at the start of the week it began complaining big time and gave up the ghost altogether tonight with some nice lads from the leisure centre giving me a bump start. Another job to do but sure that's life. Also priced standard springs and shocks all round at £380 so a H and R suspension kit, 25-30 mm drop, works out at £410-420 but then I'll only want antiroll bars at another couple of hundred. I could think of better ways to spend £600-700 than on a car that's only worth about that much. Breakers for springs, I feel disgusting just saying that and I feel confident enough in my self, having drove a few mondeos that have snapped springs on me, to save the car if it did break a spring but I'm not happy about it for my wheans and wouldn't sell a car like that so would have to scrap it or sell for spares. It hasn't failed on MOT or broke a component, it just feels very sloppy and the tire hop is bad like the dampers are fading/degrading with age and not just a good work out. Anyway, I try to keep her alive as long and as always, as safely as possible.
 
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Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
I think I forgot to mention that the brakes were making a wild noise. The braking material had come away from the backing plate upon checking it out. They only had about 20,000 miles on but kay serra serra, so ordered a new set of plain discs this time and cheap pads which was a not so cheap £90. They're fitted and all in a hurry so no pics. I'm going to have to sort this no pics malarkey out.

Leak off pipes have been replaced with better material.

The fuel cut off valve seal was replaced and then the valve itself and the fault then took a few days to clear of it's own accord for some unknown reason.

I gratefully received a donated set of bilstein B4 dampers which are fit for purpose. I'm going to match them to a set of H and R lowering springs. It'll give me an indication as to whether she can be made to handle properly before I fork out for Bilstien B8's at £££££££.

I got the starter motor fitted.

I got the tail lights fitted.

I still haven't got the door card fitted, terrible I know.

I have my eye on a set of 312mm brake calipers from a TT.

And also a set of oz racing Ibiza cupra alloys. Yes I've taken a wee crazy fit.

Lastly the car is complaining again. The tyres are wearing badly on the shoulders so I thought something was wrong but it's only just after a new set of control arm bushes. I had a shove and a pull on the driver side front wheel on the ground today and it's moving and there is a knocking noise coming from the wheel region. The strut to hub bolts are tight so maybe it's the wheel bearing or C.V. joint, loads of grease exiting the C.V. gaiter as well. I'll see if I can get it on the ramp this week to check it out further and confirm the culprit. Something every month, surely has to stop soon or is it like the Severnth bridge? Once you've finished painting to one end you have to go back to the other end and start all over again.:D
 
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Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
They do look a good bit more street fighter than my 110bhp sport alloys. Are those running 205/45/16 tyres? I once went to a vw meet in Castlewellan and thought my alloys looked alright until a got there and felt like a tubby child amongst athletes with their 17/18 inch alloys and rubber band tyres. :)
 

Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
Yeeeeaaaaahhhh. I bagged a rear beam on ebay with the integrated anti-roll bar for a tenner, he can keep the stub axles and discs as they're tapper roller bearings which I don't need. Just have to get it shipped back home and dressed up for installation along with the B4s and h and r springs.

I'll see if it needs a new set of bushes when I get my hands on it. I had a quick jeff jook at the powerflex bush on my car tonight and it's visibly worn to a level that I would call significant and substantial enough to cause some degree of free play in the rear.

I'll sort the wheel bearing/C.V. joint at the same time and hope it doesn't fall off before hand :D , doing wheel alignment immediately after.

The suspension upgrades will hopefully make a change as I could only just about match a Citroen C5 in the bends today and I'm running toyo proxes T1-R, I had toyo proxes T1-S on the mk1 leon with never an issue.

I'm going to fix my camera tonight, permanently (evil laugh), so there will be photos galore.
 
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Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
I don't have a tap talkey phone and I performed the work at my mates garage, proper four post lift stuff, on some down time so it was a case of get it done so no pics, sorry.

Drivers side wheel bearing replaced.

The wife is getting a root canal done at the minute so she's keeping me up til near 4 am. Yes I told her to clear off and sleep on the sofa but she wasn't amused. Anyway long story short. I was busted doing the work, sore head and heavy arms. Got the job done and packed up the shop and went to go home only to hear this clunking noise and feel a vibration. I thought we're here now and nursed it the mile back to home and checked it out the next day in day light after thinking I'd done something wrong in my tiredness. The driveshaft balance weight has torn on the drivers side and is knocking about, I think passenger side doesn't come with one.

The drivers side wishbone arm front bush has more play in it than it should. It's not as bad as last time but has definitely started wearing again and after only a short time after being replaced. The passenger side front bush is still nice and tight by comparison. Does anyone have a preference for another supplier of polybush other than powerflex? To be fair the front is a repeat offender and all other bushes are fine with an acceptable level of wear so I can't say it's a problem with their product. I would just like to try another supplier as a process of elimination.

Some good news, just ordered a set of h and r springs, 30mm drop 29521-1, and the rear beam has arrived. Just need to source drive shaft or balance weight or both and polybushes. Then prep and assemble. Hopefully with pics of some sort even if not the work itself. It's just not that practical when using the mates garage.
 
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Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
I have considered that the balance weight or vibration damper as it is referred to by a few names must absorb vibrational forces in particular to the gearbox/differential output flange bearings. So the gearbox diff could become damaged if it's left broken as it is. I have noticed more road noise from that side and it's noisier now than when the wheel bearing was defective.

I phoned seat to price a new one which comes with C.V. joints and it was just as well I was sitting down at £355 plus vat, £425 odd with VAT. I near died off. So phoned breakers and they have one for £30 plus VAT which I'll collect tomorrow.

Any thoughts on bushes that you have been satisfied with? I used ones from a tuner years ago called German Car Company but there's no sign of them these days.
 
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