EGR Solenoid/P0403 issue

Broongerboy

Active Member
Apr 10, 2017
6
0
Hi all,

I've got a 2012 mk2 Leon Fr+ 2.0 CR TDI 170.

In the last couple of weeks it's developed an intermittant fault whereby every few journeys the glow plug light starts flashing and the car goes into limp mode. Very frustrating!

I've read the OBD code with my little hand held scanner and it comes up with P0403. From my research this indicates an EGR problem. Specifically, the webpages I've read seem to suggest the problem that causes this code usually lies with the EGR solenoid, rather than the egr valve itself. Possibly a short or open circuit somewhere?

I was going to try and carry out some basic diagnostics myself, and possibly try swapping the solenoid for a new one if they are cheap enough. However I can't for the life of me work out where the egr solanoid actually is in my car... anyone have any ideas? I had thought the following picture was the egr solenoid, however after a bit more research it would appear this is the turbo boost solenoid (fixed onto the firewall of the engine bay). Is that correct? Do the two solenoids look similar?

imgur com / bM0v1vX

Apologies, I'm not allowed to post the pic as I'm a newb, but the above imgur code will take you there.


Thanks on advance for any help
 

CRNeo

Active Member
Feb 5, 2016
394
3
Liverpool
Hi CRNeo

No I haven't. Would that make any difference do you think?
The fact you haven't is a good thing as it's destroying egr valves, injectors and DPFs so steer well clear if you can. (It's not mandatory)

I'm not sure about your exact issue but sounds like egr at fault. How many miles you on?

Hopefully others may be able to offer more specific advise.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 

Broongerboy

Active Member
Apr 10, 2017
6
0
The fact you haven't is a good thing as it's destroying egr valves, injectors and DPFs so steer well clear if you can. (It's not mandatory)

I'm not sure about your exact issue but sounds like egr at fault. How many miles you on?

Hopefully others may be able to offer more specific advise.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk


Thanks for the advice, I hadn't heard that about the valves and injectors etc, but I always thought the "We've suddenly found a way to fix the emissions scandle with no downsides to power or economy." line was a bit too good to be true, hence I was planning on steering clear anyway!

I'm on approx 55000 miles at the minute
 

desmondman

Active Member
Apr 2, 2015
5
0
Not true ..no evidence to prove its destroying any components.FACT !

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
 

CRNeo

Active Member
Feb 5, 2016
394
3
Liverpool
Not true ..no evidence to prove its destroying any components.FACT !

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Ok yeah sure, where you getting your facts from? Opposite world?

I suggest you join and take a look on this FB group
https://www.facebook.com/groups/955027937948541

Alternatively look on google/twitter etc. and just see the sheer number of issues people are facing, it's no co-incidence that EGRs are on waiting list to get hold of.... yeah they are a weak component on the 1.6TDI already but the so called 'fix' is putting more strain on these components causing them to fail prematurely, DPF regens are more regular, fumes are terrible and the cars sound like tanks as they are doing further fuel injections after the fix also.
 
Last edited:

Daniel M

Blackbelts & Chickenheads
Apr 18, 2013
2,874
7
Middlesbrough
Mine had a similar fault a few years back and it turned out to be a split boost pipe/pipe which comes off the bottom of the EGR
 

Broongerboy

Active Member
Apr 10, 2017
6
0
I've had a little play under the bonnet this morning. Pretty sure I've found the solenoid I was looking for.

Here's the engine (with cover removed). Im pretty sure the egr vacuum solenoid is the part with the green and yellow wires coming out of it.

(Remove the spaces from the links)

imgur . com / NqTrQUQ

Imgur . com / ziEpUQU


It is linked by vacuum pipe to the vacuum pump (as is the n75 valve I put a picture of in my first post). The other vacuum line from the above solenoid goes round and down the back of the engine - I assume to the egr valve...

I disconnected the wiring loom and tested the voltage coming into the solenoid. On of the pins had 11.97v and the other had 3.5v. I'm no electrician, but I'm guessing it's supposed to have ~12v coming into the solenoid from the battery. Not entirely sure why the other pin is reading 3.5v ?

I also checked the resistance between the pins in the actual solenoid which gave 33.7 ohms. From what I've read, this is around what the resistance should be.

I tried to get the vacuum pipes off the solenoid so I could see whether they actually had vacuum coming through them when the engine was on, but I couldn't get the beggars off.

I couldn't see any obvious wiring issues or splits in tubes etc. So I'm unsure whether to give in and take it to a local garage or try buying an egr solenoid (which don't look hugely expensive) and fit it myself in the hope that that's the problem!
 

Rittzy

Active Member
Sep 1, 2008
24
0
Belfast
I've had a little play under the bonnet this morning. Pretty sure I've found the solenoid I was looking for.

Here's the engine (with cover removed). Im pretty sure the egr vacuum solenoid is the part with the green and yellow wires coming out of it.

(Remove the spaces from the links)

imgur . com / NqTrQUQ

Imgur . com / ziEpUQU


It is linked by vacuum pipe to the vacuum pump (as is the n75 valve I put a picture of in my first post). The other vacuum line from the above solenoid goes round and down the back of the engine - I assume to the egr valve...

I disconnected the wiring loom and tested the voltage coming into the solenoid. On of the pins had 11.97v and the other had 3.5v. I'm no electrician, but I'm guessing it's supposed to have ~12v coming into the solenoid from the battery. Not entirely sure why the other pin is reading 3.5v ?

I also checked the resistance between the pins in the actual solenoid which gave 33.7 ohms. From what I've read, this is around what the resistance should be.

I tried to get the vacuum pipes off the solenoid so I could see whether they actually had vacuum coming through them when the engine was on, but I couldn't get the beggars off.

I couldn't see any obvious wiring issues or splits in tubes etc. So I'm unsure whether to give in and take it to a local garage or try buying an egr solenoid (which don't look hugely expensive) and fit it myself in the hope that that's the problem!

I've had the same problem with my own car, but it possibly started half a year ago, clear the fault and raked the bag out of it and was ok for another few month. Did this a few times but it happened again yesterday so it's something I definitely need to check out.

I don't know if it was the same for yourself but it only happens to my car below 2000rpm, pretty much when the turbo isn't being used. If I drive above this after I clear the fault code it doesn't come on until I slow down again below the 2000rpm. Let us know if you have got any further with this.

Cheers
 

Broongerboy

Active Member
Apr 10, 2017
6
0
Thought I'd post a little update in here in case anyone finds this post in a search. Nothing worse than an unfinished story!

After my last post I didn't change any of the solenoids, nor did I take the car to a garage to get it looked at. I simply used my £20 obd2 scanner to reset the codes whenever the car went into limp mode. I did this pretty much every journey for a good few months. After I'd erased the codes, the car wouldn't go into limp mode again unless the ignition was turned off and back on again.

Anyway, eventually the time came for its service. I booked it in my local private garage and asked if they could take a look at the p0403 problem at the same time. They did the routine service and told me I would need a new egr valve for ~£500 fitted, but the guy suggested I got the emissions fix done and then try to get a new valve off seat. I wasnt keen on either of those options, so decided to leave it for a bit...

Well, they must have done something to accidentally/unintentionally fix it in that service, because the car's been running faultlessly since (its been run week-daily ~60 miles for about two months since the service). It's not gone into limp mode again at all. No engine warning lights, nothing. I can only guess they've knocked a wire or connection or something and its fixed the problem.

Touch wood it stays fixed.
 

Broongerboy

Active Member
Apr 10, 2017
6
0
Doh. Well, after 3 or 4 months fault free driving after the service, the fault has stated to rear it's ugly head again. It's now happening once every 3 or 4 journeys. I'm just wondering what the garage could have done in a routine service to stop the error for three months :confused:
 
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