Coil Light + EML and now DPF light

Israar · Jun 3, 2017

Hey guys and gals!

Been a while since I've been on here and been quite hectic, but in need of some advice, I had an idea of what I need to do but would like some of your opinions so I have a little more understanding and don't get fobbed off!

I had the Coil Light come on this week, flashing constantly, I checked the code with Carista as I don't have VAGCOM so can't get the proper code myself unfortunately.

The code that I got is as follows:

Code:

Engine
Part #: 03L906022GN
Coding: 50072 (decimal)
Component: R4 2,0L EDC G000
Fault Codes:
P2563 Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor, Circuit Range / Performance

This I cleared anyway but keeps coming back, so I know there is an underlying problem but not sure what, I've looked around and some indicate an actual sensor but can't remember the sensor number properly G-something and others indicate that the actuator on the turbo itself. I will state that I don't have limp mode or a noticeable loss of power, the power is still there which is what is puzzling me?

Then yesterday, my DPF light came on, I've done a hard 3rd gear run down the M5, engine didn't sound like it appreciated it so on the way back I ran it in 4th, it was a good 100min drive at least and the DPF light stayed on.

So I'm guessing I need to get a scan done properly on the car so I have the right way about knowing what the flashing Coil Light is and that the DPF filter needs a forced regen? Trouble is with the time now, where would my best bet to go? I was considering Barlow Motors as I need to get the NOx emissions thing done as I had a letter come through about it being the final warning like, so would like to get that done too but how much would all this end up costing me?

Thanks in advance, everyone!

--Lee

Speed-FReek · Jun 3, 2017

You need to get the car properly scanned for fault codes. I would advise getting that done sooner rather than later because if there really is a DPF issue and it continues to fill up with soot because a regen can't be completed for whatever reason, then you could end up going past the threshold whereby a forced regen is then deemed too dangerous to initiate (the car will not even attempt it or allow it to be initiated because doing so could pose a potential fire hazzard). In this case you will then be left with only one option which is to either replace the DPF (over £1000) or have it mapped out and deleted.

As for the emissions "fix", if I was you I would avoid it like the plague unless you like playing Russian Roulette. There are already a number of threads & posts on here about it but the following thread is a fairly concise recent one that contains most of the relevant links...

http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=438514

It is not a final warning you've received, it's a final reminder. There's a fundamental difference because there is no legal requirement in the UK to have the emissions "fix" applied and there is no incentive for having it done, and no penalty for not having it done.

I also got a "final reminder" letter last week which I will be ignoring as per all the previous letters they sent me on the same subject. Hopefully that really is the last letter they will be sending me about it because I'm starting to get sick of being spammed every other month with yet another reminder letter.

Israar · Jun 3, 2017

Thanks for the response Speed-FReek

I skipped going to the Seat Dealers, ended up going to another place by me and booked it in to be checked over, that will be Tuesday at the earliest but he suggested I use the car as little as possible in case the regen isn't working at all, which if I'm honest I was keeping my eyes on it and it doesn't seem to be doing a regen at all... I have been on and off about getting this emission fix but always been leaning more to not getting it done. I was following a thread a good while back but stopped reading it due to a few people spotting they seemed to have noticed a difference more in the lower end of gears (if memory serves me well!) I will give that thread a read, though I think I'll do with this letter what I did with the others and just put it with everything else concerning my car haha! Skipping having it done altogether.

Yeah that was my mistake, I wrote warning rather than reminder, I don't even know how I did that considering I said it before I typed it haha! :rofl:

Do you know any registered VAGCOM users that I could speak to about getting the car scanned properly by me or any specific places where I'd be better going? Or would any garage be suitable to go to for a scan results? What is it I need specifically? Just a full detailed scan of the ECU?

Thanks in advance Speed-FReek!

--Lee

Rusty2k · Jun 5, 2017

The fault code you have is for an implausible signal from the actuator position sensor (i.e. the reading from the sensor is outside what the ECU is expecting for the operating conditions of the engine).

This will show as an engine fault (coil light flashing) and can trigger the emissions light if the readings are far enough out. The ECU will not run active DPF regeneration while there are engine fault codes so if you're passed the point where passive regeneration will help then the fault needs to be fixed before an active or forced regeneration can be run.

Fault codes only tell you so much though.

I'd hook up a vacuum pump / tester to the turbo vane actuator and check operation. If it doesn't hold vacuum then the diaphragm is damaged. If it holds vacuum check the mechanical operation of the actuator piston. It should move in and out smoothly as vacuum is applied / released. If it's jerky or has restricted movement then it could be a problem with the vane levers not moving correctly (or possibly a seized piston in the actuator).

If the actuator is holding vacuum and moving fully and freely then it's probably an issue supplying vacuum to the actuator in which case it's hoses and the vacuum control valve (N75) that need to be checked.

The sensor is built into the actuator so the unit will need replacing if there's a fault on either the electrical or mechanical side.

If the vanes aren't moving smoothly then the turbo will need to be stripped and cleaned.

Israar · Jun 8, 2017

Rusty2k said:
The fault code you have is for an implausible signal from the actuator position sensor (i.e. the reading from the sensor is outside what the ECU is expecting for the operating conditions of the engine).

This will show as an engine fault (coil light flashing) and can trigger the emissions light if the readings are far enough out. The ECU will not run active DPF regeneration while there are engine fault codes so if you're passed the point where passive regeneration will help then the fault needs to be fixed before an active or forced regeneration can be run.

Fault codes only tell you so much though.

I'd hook up a vacuum pump / tester to the turbo vane actuator and check operation. If it doesn't hold vacuum then the diaphragm is damaged. If it holds vacuum check the mechanical operation of the actuator piston. It should move in and out smoothly as vacuum is applied / released. If it's jerky or has restricted movement then it could be a problem with the vane levers not moving correctly (or possibly a seized piston in the actuator).

If the actuator is holding vacuum and moving fully and freely then it's probably an issue supplying vacuum to the actuator in which case it's hoses and the vacuum control valve (N75) that need to be checked.

The sensor is built into the actuator so the unit will need replacing if there's a fault on either the electrical or mechanical side.

If the vanes aren't moving smoothly then the turbo will need to be stripped and cleaned.

Hey Rusty2k, really sorry for the long wait on reply!

I logged on not long after you'd messaged and I read this but had to dash so couldn't respond, so I am sorry for taking so long to get back to you mate.

The car is currently at a garage not too far from me but a good walk away, was supposed to be looked at yesterday but the guy who has it in his care didn't go in due to most likely suffering from his Physiotherapy session? Was told he should be in today to give me the heads up on what it is and the cost to fix the problem. I showed him the code and he brought it up on his works computer to show me the full details and he pretty much said everything you said mate!

He said he will be testing the vac lines, N75 and testing to see if vac holds and mentioned some pressure values which meant nothing to me as I'm not that up on that just yet :ROFL: Then said if everything is fine on that area then he will have to take the actuator off and have a look, he said he can either order new parts or refurbish mine but that will come as and when he pin points the problem (when he gets on to doing it) then will speak to me first to see if I want new or refurbished, truthfully I just want the car back asap and fixed so the fastest route for me would be best be it new or refurbed, as this weekend relies on me having my car in working order aha

I'm hoping it's a nice simple fix, even if it's just replacing the actuator itself and having it calibrated properly then back to working order, just feels so weird now without my car and from last time I drove it, it felt that out of breathe even a Nissan Micra flew past me made me feel like I was in a Reliant! :blink:

The wait for the call at the minute is what's doing me in though, I'm patient but when it comes to this and I've got plans my patience doesn't want to be near me albeit I'm not bad/nasty with it just very fidgety haha! Either way, thank you so much for the insight, helped me quite a bit reading your post

--Lee

Israar · Jun 10, 2017

Update for all!

I collected my car yesterday from the garage and all is well! Running like a treat again!

Turns out it was in fact the actuator leaking so had that replaced and also had the DPF regen done (was flagged at 36g not sure how high/low that is though) so after collecting I just did a casual 40min smooth drive until later in the day done another 40min drive to my mates where I picked her up and we leathered the arse off it! Have to say feels more of a pull now from before I had the problem come up, even my mate said she could feel a noticeable difference from when I peppered the car to yesterdays run.

All in all was happy with the work and really grateful for the input of you two here! Was shocked how the actuator threw so many lights up... As for limp mode, that is one thing I never want to experience again, especially when a Nissan Micra flies past me and there's nothing I can do about it :rofl:

Thanks again for the input, highly appreciate it!

Lee

propane94 · Jun 10, 2017

Just incase you check the loading again, here is a graph for reference.

36g is very high though, but recoverable.

Rusty2k · Jun 11, 2017

Israar said:
Update for all!

I collected my car yesterday from the garage and all is well! Running like a treat again!

Turns out it was in fact the actuator leaking so had that replaced and also had the DPF regen done (was flagged at 36g not sure how high/low that is though) so after collecting I just did a casual 40min smooth drive until later in the day done another 40min drive to my mates where I picked her up and we leathered the arse off it! Have to say feels more of a pull now from before I had the problem come up, even my mate said she could feel a noticeable difference from when I peppered the car to yesterdays run.

All in all was happy with the work and really grateful for the input of you two here! Was shocked how the actuator threw so many lights up... As for limp mode, that is one thing I never want to experience again, especially when a Nissan Micra flies past me and there's nothing I can do about it

Thanks again for the input, highly appreciate it!

Lee

Glad it's all sorted. I've done the actuator on my CR170 over the weekend too.

I think they can go unnoticed at first when they fail as it'll start out as a small leak only having a small effect and get worse over time. Mine wasn't holding vacuum at all and the only times I had an error was at low speed and low revs.

If you don't mind me asking, how much did the garage charge for replacement?

I did mine with the engine out of the car as I needed to replace a bearing inside the DSG box too. I'm not sure I would have liked to do this with the engine in the car due to the poor access to the back of the turbo.

Israar · Jun 12, 2017

propane94 said:
Just incase you check the loading again, here is a graph for reference.

36g is very high though, but recoverable.

Thanks for the advice mate, that image is pretty good too will have to save that for future reference!

Rusty2k said:
Glad it's all sorted. I've done the actuator on my CR170 over the weekend too.

I think they can go unnoticed at first when they fail as it'll start out as a small leak only having a small effect and get worse over time. Mine wasn't holding vacuum at all and the only times I had an error was at low speed and low revs.

If you don't mind me asking, how much did the garage charge for replacement?

I did mine with the engine out of the car as I needed to replace a bearing inside the DSG box too. I'm not sure I would have liked to do this with the engine in the car due to the poor access to the back of the turbo.

Thanks Rusty2k

How did yours go on yours? Mines the same as yours CR170 =)

No way, shows though how much of an impact a small leak can cause and over time how much of a problem it becomes!

I don't mind you or anyone asking mate, in total it cost £309.19 but that was part and labour, he did it all while the engine was in the car not out like you had yours done

I'm just glad it's all sorted and I can say for sure that it's definitely a lot more responsive at delivering the power

I'll sort out putting up the receipt soon so you can see it as is mate, again thank you for the help!

--Lee

Rusty2k · Jun 17, 2017

No worries.

I had suspected my actuator to be faulty for a while as I'd had a few boost related issues such as lower than normal at low RPMs, boost taking longer than normal to build and lingering boost after coming off the throttle affecting idle.

Hooking up a vacuum pump and testing the actuator confirmed it was dead. I'd been living with it until I had time to sort the gearbox out too as the symptoms weren't too bad and looked a much easier job to do with everything out of the car.

£300-ish isn't too bad if it was a genuine part used. Probably a little on the high side if they've used a pattern part. The genuine repair kit has an RRP of £131 + VAT from the dealers but you don't really need the whole kit. Just the actuator on its own is fine. The kit includes a plastic bung for the turbo intake (to use while your working), some new bolts (not really required - the old ones aren't stretch bolts) and a tube of liquid thread lock. If I were doing the job again I'd just get the actuator on its own and a small tube of thread lock from a factors.

The dealers get 2.5 hours if the actuator needs replacing under warranty, which includes testing vacuum lines.

Israar · Jun 20, 2017

Rusty2k said:
No worries.

I had suspected my actuator to be faulty for a while as I'd had a few boost related issues such as lower than normal at low RPMs, boost taking longer than normal to build and lingering boost after coming off the throttle affecting idle.

Hooking up a vacuum pump and testing the actuator confirmed it was dead. I'd been living with it until I had time to sort the gearbox out too as the symptoms weren't too bad and looked a much easier job to do with everything out of the car.

£300-ish isn't too bad if it was a genuine part used. Probably a little on the high side if they've used a pattern part. The genuine repair kit has an RRP of £131 + VAT from the dealers but you don't really need the whole kit. Just the actuator on its own is fine. The kit includes a plastic bung for the turbo intake (to use while your working), some new bolts (not really required - the old ones aren't stretch bolts) and a tube of liquid thread lock. If I were doing the job again I'd just get the actuator on its own and a small tube of thread lock from a factors.

The dealers get 2.5 hours if the actuator needs replacing under warranty, which includes testing vacuum lines.

Only thing I noticed before it flagging up errors was that it was taking time to build up the boost but not all the time, though I probably had more just never noticed them haha!

What was up with your gear box mate if you don't mind me asking?

Yeah genuine Audi part I believe and from what you stated seems like not much is really needed to sort it out! It was a 4hr labour due to that and also doing the regen for me, still haven't sorted out getting the receipt posted up but will try to get it up this week so you can check it if you like, not really much on it though I don't think

Just found a new problem though, so will hopefully get that sorted asap and hopefully it will cost as little as possible as besides the new fault on the car my washing machine has packed in too! [:@]

The dirty 3 fails

How's your little beauty running now since having gearbox and actuator sorted out?

--Lee

Search

Coil Light + EML and now DPF light

Israar

Active Member

Speed-FReek

Active Member

Israar

Active Member

Rusty2k

Active Member

Israar

Active Member

Israar

Active Member

propane94

Bearded Ginger

Rusty2k

Active Member

Israar

Active Member

Rusty2k

Active Member

Israar

Active Member

Similar threads