vario tdi se sort of restoration

Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
Correction to the above post, axial clearance is 0.05mm.

The car is now going. I got my mechanical oil pressure gauge fitted and it's reading 65 psi cold and 18 warm which is acceptable from what I've read. Boost gauge is fitted but haven't tested the waters yet as I want to put the car on vcds lite and check the injection timing.

But car is alive and that the main thing. Thank God.:)
 

Seatmann

Rough around the edges
Sep 16, 2010
5,568
9
Scotlanda
Correction to the above post, axial clearance is 0.05mm.

The car is now going. I got my mechanical oil pressure gauge fitted and it's reading 65 psi cold and 18 warm which is acceptable from what I've read. Boost gauge is fitted but haven't tested the waters yet as I want to put the car on vcds lite and check the injection timing.

But car is alive and that the main thing. Thank God.:)

Get it lit! :D
 

Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
I still haven't put the car on the VCDS-Lite but I have got her lit. She's boosting to almost1.25 bar and backing off to about 0.85 bar on a tim boost gauge.

I wasn't going to give her the beans but my hand/foot was forced. There's a section of road being reworked near where I live and the dual carriage way is reduced from two lanes to one and I was in the outside lane that the cones where gradually cutting off. A mk4 mondeo tdci was in the left lane and about a car and a half in front of me and some other numpty was closing up in behind the mondeo to cut me off so I got a went to give it a squirt to pull in in front of the mondeo and whether he was having none of it or got miffed by the guy behind him but he put the boot down. Solution/outcome, reach for third and put the boot down and got in front of the mondeo. Now discovered a medium coolant leak. The level will go from max to min or slightly lower after a good stiffing or every third day when driving easily. The oil isn't emulsifying and the coolant doesn't look contaminated so there must be a wee hole somewhere, a very small and annoying hard to find one.
 

Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
I'm happy with the way the car is performing at the minute. I done a third gear pull up a medium steep hill, gradient isn't given, from the idle to 4250 rpm and the exhaust gases only hit 500 deg celcius. so I've got a wee bit of room for more power seeing as how my intercooler is well manky. I good FMIC with a spray of sorts onto it and mater/meth injection could bring exhaust gas temperatures down by another 50-80 deg celcius. Propane injection, if down correctly, can bring down the temps also although the temps will go up if injection is set for more power from the engine but they will probably be lower in comparison to a similar engine with the same power output that doesn't have propane injection.
 

Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
53 miles in 58 minutes

Yes she's going not too bad. 53 miles in 58 minutes with no problems and not too much coolant loss. I haven't got an oil temperature gauge which I might get as the more I give her the lower the oil pressure gets. The oil thins out as it gets hotter. It dropped to five or so psi on a tim mechanical oil pressure gauge. The feed is taken from the original oil pressure sensor location at the side of the cylinder head. Nice wee rake is just what I needed.
 

Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
She got another good blow out tonight. 3rd gear pull and 4th gear pull i.e flat in 3rd then change to 4th and flat in fourth to 4000 rpm in each gear. This run was up a rather steep hill. The EGT in 3rd peak at 420 deg cel and 4th peaked at 610 deg cel. So I have still a bit of room to up the power levels and as my intercooler is pure rubbish I envisage a lot of improvement for cooling the intake charge air and therefore lower the EGT also.
 
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Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
Nothing that exciting to report. MOT work really and no photos I'm afraid. The list of work done was crank case ventilation hoses cracked and a bit lost in to sump. Sump removed to retrieve fragments of hose. Coolant hose kinked. Rear springs collapsed and damper bushings worn. Exhaust rattling and blowing out due to failed metal hanger bracket that attaches to back box. That and it also sits too low hitting off speed bumps, poor fabrication skills of garage. Heat shields corroded and dropped down. Under-tray locating studs are worn necessitating the use of different retaining fasteners. Front bumper out of position and needed secured in place. Adjust handbrake cable tension. Good detailing inside and out. Four new toyo proxies T1-R tyres fitted. Check bulbs and indicators for orange shading. Check screen wash system. Rear wiper not working due to poor earth caused by water ingress via the fog lamp panel. Door stay bar had partially detached from the door skin so reattached using thread lock and cleaned and applied fresh grease to all the door stay bars. The luggage compartment light switch was not making circuit due to a worn track. It has a negative track and two positive tracks, one of which is not required for my vehicle anyway, so dismantled the switch and swapped the good spare track for the manky one. Put a new door liner in behind the door card on the drivers side only for the door lock barrel to fail the following week so that will probably get ripped to bits when I repair the door lock. Fitted new rocker cover gasket.

Things still to do/address are:-

Coolant loss. Oil leak or diesel smell coming in to the cabinet when in slow moving traffic. Fog lamp lens cluster is being repaired, resealed and resurfaced. Injection pump timing adjustment. Drivers side door lock to be repaired. I'd like to do something for myself if you know what I mean and not just because it broke and change the backings in the instrument cluster from black to white. Boot lock is starting to play up now. Oil lamp warning light is on and it's not the pressure or the senders so a wiring gremlin. The wheel alignment needs done as the steering feels like it's fighting itself. It's getting towards that time when the oils and all the filters need done again. And last but not least the steering column lower securing bracket broke.

Will get make some time and get some pics of the future work.
 
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Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
Steering column refurb with pics

As promised I refurbished the steering column tube and got a number of photographs taken of the column being removed, refurbished and replaced. Well most of it. I hope it proves useful or interesting as I'll try to lay it out as best I can.

First things first, safety wear. I wore glasses, black rubber gloves, and ear defenders as a small rotary power tool was my weapon of choice at one stage of the game.

Next disconnect the battery negative.

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I had centred the wheels and marked the centre point of the steering wheel to the dash but turned out to be unnecessary as it was altered upon the fitment of the new column. I had to put the wheels in the dead a head position and re-centre the steering wheel at the end of the entire procedure.

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Improve the access to the defective column by removing panels, instrument binnacle and steering wheel.

Remove steering column lower shroud. No photo sorry.

Remove the airbag by undoing two screws at the rear of the steering wheel and carefully prising out the connector with a fine flathead screwdriver.

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Next remove the steering wheel retaining nut. Separate the connector that links the rest of the electrical loom to the airbag contact unit and then retract the steering wheel.

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Remove the instrument binnacle surround by undoing two screws and pulling it forward. Sorry no photo.

Remove the steering column upper shroud by the power of greyskull because I can never figure out how I got it off without breaking it. It lifts up and away but the clips that hold it in place are inaccessible to pry apart so I just wiggle it and apply force evenly and steadily until it pops off without damaging it. No photo.

Remove the instrument binnacle. Undo two screws either side and it rotates forward, pull out the loom connection on the left hand side as you face it and lift the bottom pegs out of their recesses and jiggle it about a bit until it's clear of the dash. No photo, we're doing well here.


Remove driver side glove box compartment by depressing a tang on either side and pull forwards and upwards.

Remove the dashboard lower section in the foot well to improve access. Two screws to be undone and it pulls forwards and out of position.

Remove the intermediate shaft cover for access to the coupling sleeve. Two 10mm plastic nuts to the left and right ironically just out of shot are to be loosened to achieve this.

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It is necessary to remove the indicator and wiper stalk switches and ignition barrel electrics away from the column to improve access to the shear bolts which secure the upper half of the column. This is done by cutting some cable ties and undoing the three screws holding the stalk switch gear. Then unclip the stalk switch connectors. The ignition barrel electrics easily pulls away from the part where the key goes in.

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Some people find that a sharpened punch or chisel is capable of unwinding the bolt when a hammer is used to strike the head of the shear bolt. I found that the access even with everything out of the way and the fact that the bolt head was a smooth dome shape made this method impossible. The first method I tried was to use easy outs but as I couldn't get directly straight onto the heads the easy out snapped in one bolt head and the drill bit snapped in the second bolt head so my third method was to employ a small rotary power tool with cutting disc attachments to make incisions in the bolt head for a chisel to get purchase on. I then drove the bolt out by rotating it with a hammer and chisel.

I masked up the electrics as best I could to prevent contamination from metal particles during the abrasion process. It did try and catch fire once or twice.:whistle:

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Undo the retaining nuts securing the intermediate shaft connecting piece and remove it, the retaining plate will slide upward when the steering column is removed thus separating the shaft halves.

The column tube lower securing clips simply pulls up off a plastic mounting bush sandwiched between the foot pedal controls pivot points.

The next step is to disassemble the column tube and its collapsible shaft.

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I found it necessary to replace items 12a,12,9 and 4. I also thought it prudent to change items 5,6 and 7 on a diagram that I will post or add to this reply. Don't have it to hand right now.

Use a bearing puller to remove the splined collar and spring from the top of the collapsible shaft.

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Removing the universal joint and half shaft from the bottom of the collapsible shaft is achieved by removing a nut and bolt and makes the process easier to manage.

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Undo the bolt securing the ignition barrel assembly to the column tube upper section and put the key in the barrel to the lock off position. Gently tap the ignition barrel from behind with a brass drift or soft face mallet until it separates from the collapsible shaft and the column tube upper section.

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I know this is the correct method as the first method I tried resulted in this.

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Nothing a bit of chemical metal can't fix. It doesn't bear a heavy load anyway.

The collapsible shaft may require being extended back to its original position/length. Do this by holding one end in a soft jawed vice and striking the underside of the temporarily positioned steering wheel retaining nut. There is a small circular cut out on the upper section which realigns with an indent in the lower section to let you know that it is at its original length.

Lightly grease, with multipurpose grease, bearing no 7 and drive it into the base of the new steering column tube being careful not to shorten it's length. Do this by gripping the lower section only as you insert the bearing and do not brace the top part against anything solid.

Prepare the collapsible shaft by cleaning off the old grease and lightly greasing the contact points.

Lightly grease and insert bearing no 5 into the ignition barrel assembly from below.

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Bush/bearing is absent from ignition barrel assembly.

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Slide the ignition barrel assembly and bearing down onto the top of the collapsible shaft making sure it engages fully.

Insert the bottom end of the collapsible shaft and ignition barrel into the top opening of the new steering column tube guiding it down the way being careful to guide the bottom end of the collapsible shaft through bearing no 7 before driving it home with a soft faced mallet. Tap the ignition barrel gently and not the shaft end.

Secure the ignition barrel with a bolt.

Put new spring no 6 in place and reattach the universal joint/half shaft assembly securing with a nut and bolt.

Put the spring no 8 and splined collar no 2 back on top of the collapsible shaft and pull it down by tightening the steering wheel retaining nut.

Test that the steering lock mechanism is functioning correctly before proceeding any further.

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Place the sound absorption pads,no 12a, in the column upper mounting points and then the new metal pads, no 12, while it is on bench/table and more accessible. The pads fit neatly into the pads in one direction only to let you know their fitting orientation.

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Installation of the column assembly is reversal of the removal with a few points of interest to note and observe.

Offer the column assembly into position and engage the lower retaining clip into position on its bushing.

Semi tighten the upper locating bolts.

Slide the retaining plate over the two shaft halves.

Loosely secure with the connecting piece and nuts.

Progressively and evenly tighten the shear bolts until the heads break off as designed to do so.

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Now torque up the connecting piece nuts.

Use new nuts and bolts were possible and if not then medium strength thread lock.

Reattach the remaining fixtures in reverse order of their removal and reattach the battery negative terminal and test drive.

As previously stated I found that it was necessary to find the wheels dead a head position and re-centre the steering wheel.

I will post another reply with the exploded diagram of the steering wheel assembly and whatever torque values I know of.

Thanks for reading, hope you enjoyed.
 
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Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
I've still to post the torque values and the exploded diagram . I've been a busy chap. I've sorted out some stuff on the cordoba but it was all required to be done in a hurry so no procedural steps but I'll try and get some photographs of the remedial work done and the outcome. Power steering leak fixed, sump dropped and gasket junked in favour of the original paste sealant, oil and filter replaced with a new sump drain bung, diesel leak off pipes replaced. Observed a crack in the console/bracket that goes between the engine block and front engine mount. Observed slight oil leak at the sealing washers at the securing points for the rocker/cam cover. Observed that the front, blue/purple powerflex, control arm bushes were considerably worn, being the cause of current handling issues. These bushes are sold with a lifetime guaranty. Observed that the rear wheel bearings are failed being the source of a droning noise in the cabin.

I ordered a new front engine mount and plan to get the console/bracket welded/braced at the same time. I ordered new seals for the cam cover and the pipe ends that enter and exit the steering rack. I have to email power flex to get replacement bushes sent out to me. I bagged an absolute gumtree bargain and got rear calipers and carriers with very decent used discs and pads as well as handbrake cables. I would like an Ibiza gti rear beam but they're hard to come by. Rear Ibiza gti stub axles and hub flanges and brake hoses will have to be acquired to complete the rear brake setup and the purpose of this is more for the reliablity and longevity of bearing setup as the rear bearings only have about 30,000 miles on them and both sides have failed..

That'll be the immediate sort of safety/mot preparation work that'll be undertaken in the next fortnight and I'll try to get the photos to post along with the other stuff to be posted.

The tuning stuff is still on the cards. The other items sort of take priority. :D
 
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m0rk

sarcasm comes free
Staff member
May 19, 2001
27,787
33
Clanfield, UK
great to see you're still keeping her going. So much easier to work on these than modern cars

I still miss my old vario
 

Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
Thanks Mork.

I'm hopefully going to bag a pair of stub axles tomorrow which just leaves me to source brake hoses if they are different which they probably are and then a pair of hub flanges and bearings and fixing bolt set.

I'm getting a set of good used bilstein B4 shock absorbers from a mk3 cupra with a set of eibach springs this weekend. The springs look like pro kit instead of sportlines but I'll find out when I get there. One spring is broke but apparently replacements are available from eibach direct. I would usually prefer a set of springs but in this case I think it's acceptable to replace the front pair of springs.

The front engine mount is on back order from seat, just felt happier getting the original from seat, and once it comes with the powerflex bushes then we can get the hands dirty :D
 

Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
Thanks Mork.

I'm hopefully going to bag a pair of stub axles tomorrow which just leaves me to source brake hoses if they are different which they probably are and then a pair of hub flanges and bearings and fixing bolt set.

I'm getting a set of good used bilstein B4 shock absorbers from a mk3 ibiza cupra with a set of eibach springs this weekend. The springs look like pro kit instead of sportlines but I'll find out when I get there. One spring is broke but apparently replacements are available from eibach direct. I would usually prefer a set of springs but in this case I think it's acceptable to replace the front pair of springs. It'll be a heck of a lot better than the spax vsx kit that's in it in the minute.

The front engine mount is on back order from seat, just felt happier getting the original from seat, and once it comes with the powerflex bushes then we can get the hands dirty :D
 
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Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
Good news, the engine mount is here. Bad news the front engine console/securing bracket snapped on wed night so limped it into work yesterday and confirmed that was the culprit. So the oil filter is still in tacked and I'm setting about acquiring a new bracket. My loving crafted power steering pipe got mangled though and I didn't even get to post any photographs of it for you. :(
 

Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
drat, it doesn't fit!!!

I aquired an ibiza cupra 01 year, rear beam with stub axles and wheel hubs and caliper carriers. I already have the carriers but sure. I know that the ibiza bushes are a different diameter to mine but made the cardinal sin of assuming the width was the same as mine.

Has anyone any experience of retro fitting these ibiza beams to the cordoba. This is just a quick post, I will get the pics and diagrams up when I get a chance.

Thanks.
 

m0rk

sarcasm comes free
Staff member
May 19, 2001
27,787
33
Clanfield, UK
You wanted the Mk2 'type' really - off a cordy SX, or Ibiza 8v/16v

Keep your calliper carriers, they're worth keeping - from memory even the rear stub axles are different (but you can check this on your existing beams)
 

Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
There's a cordy 3 door a stones throw from me, covered in grass and little fury creatures but the woman that owns it is a moon cat. I'll investigate the stub axle fitment further and check that beam out because it sounds a bit better than my solution which was to either steal the anti-roll bar out of the one I got or grind the new one down to the same size as mine. Job done as Edd would say.

Thanks.
 
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m0rk

sarcasm comes free
Staff member
May 19, 2001
27,787
33
Clanfield, UK
Check it is a 2.0 16v Cordy, and not the 1.6 - I think they didn't have the discs & ARB rear beam

You could just buy the disc stub axles for your rear beam and not worry unduly about the ARB
 

Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
That would be a better idea to be honest. Then I could put a neuspeed or h and r anti roll bar in and keep alignment and safety all as it should be.

I've been putting a new hot water tank in the house lately which has taken just a wee bit longer than I would like it to have. But it's so pretty and I can say it was all my own work. I'll take some pics after I put the weans to bed. They've been :bounce: ing all day so they should be :sleepy: and then I can [B)] out and have a :snack: or two.
 

Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
I'm a bit frustrated with the hot water cylinder installation. There's a very slight drip of water coming from the drain bung after 8 turns of ptfe tape. I noticed a burr on the tank threads which I removed. I then tried 12, 14 and lastly 20 turns of ptfe tape there is still a wee weep from the joint. Any plumbers out there got any suggestions as to what the problemo is.

Thanks.