GUIDE - Changing Aux Belt and Tensioner - PD130/PD100

Jimski

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Nov 3, 2007
1,350
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Hey hey,

Right there seems to be very limited information around this topic, so here is a guide for all those that love pictures and guides, hopefully someone will find it useful....one day!!

If your belt appears cracked or has started squeaking, perhaps this is first thing to try.

Tools (if you want to remove wheel/arch etc)
IMAG0015.jpg


Changing the Aux Belt :-

- Firstly, identify what length of belt you need, dependent on engine size, A/C etc, usually a belt is something like £7-£12 depending where you go.
- Haynes states that removal of the offside wheel and arch liner is need, WRONG!! This job can be done from above, little bit fiddly, but very possible.

1) Remove engine cover and foam surround padding.
2) Note the route the belt takes, draw a little picture if needs be.
3) Using a 16mm spanner attach to the outer BOLT of the sprung tensioner pulley, just below the alternator.
4) Pull towards you as far as possible, you'll see the belt becoming loose.
5) Attach a second spanner (Fig.1) to the top of the first to have extra leverage, you should be able to then flick the belt off enough.
6) CAREFULLY release your spanners so that the tensioner goes back to a 'neutral' position.
7) Remove old belt.
8) Arrange new belt onto bottom pulleys and in the correct location for the top two.
9) Put your 16mm back onto the sprung tensioner, pull towards you, attach the second spanner again and fit the belt UNDER the tensioner and looping over the alternator pulley.
10) Release your spanners carefully, making sure that the belt is correctly seated. JOBS A GOOD 'EN!

Fig.1
IMAG0016.jpg


Changing Aux Belt Sprung Tensioner :-

Having checked that your alternator clutch is working correctly, this is the next thing to check really, if there is 'excessive' play or it spins VERY freely, might be worth a change. There is SOME play as standard, but not a lot, and a new unit will not spin freely, slight resistance. But a lot of play combined with a free spin, will give an annoying chirp!

- Buy yourself a new tensioner, GSF - £37.50, its the roller AND spring part.
- Using the guide above, remove the aux belt.

1) The fixing for this tensioner, is a 13mm bolt on the other side, below the rear of the alternator. You can see the orange dipstick in the photos for general location (Fig.2 & Fig.3). You will need a 13mm long reach socket and ratchet to remove.
2) You will hear a little 'twang' as the tensioner releases a little, don't worry.
3) Once the bolt is removed, you can remove the tensioner, pull the black roller upwards with a little wiggle and the whole unit will come free. Leaving this hole (Fig.4)
4) You will notice the new tensioner has a little pin in it, LEAVE THIS IN PLACE! (Fig.5) The new one will need to be fitted base first, roller pointing to the floor, it is a little fiddly but it will go in quite easily once located correctly. Push it in.
5) Refit the 13mm bolt, and tighten sufficiently.
6) Replace the belt, you will notice it will go on fine as the tensioner has that little pin to keep it tight. Once your belt is on correctly, use the two spanner method to apply A LITTLE tension, you can then remove the pin by hand. Release carefully. JOBS A GOOD 'EN.

Fig.2
IMAG0012.jpg


Fig.3
IMAG0013.jpg


Fig.4
IMAG0014.jpg


Fig.5 (New on the left, notice the locating pin, LEAVE THIS IN)
IMAG0009.jpg



Thank-you please,

Jimski :funk:
 
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Jimski

Back to the fold!
Nov 3, 2007
1,350
4
Staffs
I used a non-gen tensioner and then a genuine belt as the non-gen replacement belt squeaked like hell.

If its a squeak you have rather than a 'bouncy' tensioner, get a new genuine belt first and try that.


Jimski
 

RedCupra160

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Part numbers for FR:

Tensioner: S 038 903 315 AH
Belt: S 038 903 137AA

The S means that the parts are supplied as superseded parts.