Is this TDC?

verbal_kint

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Apr 15, 2010
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North West Kent
Putting things make together hopefully but want to check stuff as I go.

I thought I had the crank at TDC but can't see any alignment mark through hole.

The pistons are flush with the top, so should I worry about not seeing the mark? Or is that darker tooth the mark?

tdc_zpsx0ik4yuw.jpg


timing%20mark_zpsxdqv9kqy.jpg
 

cheshire cat

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Dec 28, 2002
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depends what you are doing if only looking for "close" use sight or touch to determine stop then start of piston travel mark each on the pulley or whatever and the answer is in the middle
 

verbal_kint

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Apr 15, 2010
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North West Kent
Thanks CC, ordered gauge and stand late last night and it was in my hands before 9 this morning. gotta love Amazon.

Now playing to see how it works, got memories from years ago when my old man was alive. Thought they had a movement register? Otherwise I need find a hand to turn while I watch the dial.
 

verbal_kint

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Apr 15, 2010
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North West Kent
Question, if I rotate the crank to check for TDC do I have to worry about the injection pump and rotate that on a 1:1 basis with the crank? Or is it OK to leave the pump locked in place?
 

cheshire cat

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if the pump is locked in place, belt was on, and that side had not been disturbed(engine was running OK before stripping ) then don't turn the crank it would be safe to say that within any small error from the last belt fitting you have tdc remember pump turns at 1/2 speed to crank
 

verbal_kint

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Apr 15, 2010
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North West Kent
I had to move rotate the pump a small bit, about 2 teeth, to get the lock pin in but I have marked where it was before moving.

From your previous advice I need to turn the crank to check it is at top, I am concerned that I can't see the alignment mark on the flywheel and on the crank pulley the left most of the 3 dots is out of line with the casting mark (acording to Haynes).

The engine was running a bit rough prior to laying it up but think that was due to the leaks and the stuck valve with worn through shim (not the right word but I'm weary)
 

cheshire cat

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2 teeth may well be "within error" as there are a lot on the ring and a few deg's between piston travel stop at TDC and starting to descend, it may be best to start the retiming from scratch if you have Haynes --can't remember if the crank pulley is on a keyway I thought the toothed crank pulley (which must be keyed) had one mark,-- three dots (on the outer belt pulley/) sounds like "petrol engine" marks which are often TDC and 5& 10 deg btdc I've been one phone call away from the scrapman too don't give up :)
 
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