Heater resistor failure

Bobtknob

Active Member
Nov 13, 2017
1
0
My girlfriends ibiza only works in blower setting 4
I’ve had this problem on other vehicles and it was the heater resistor
Is this likely to be the cause on this model, and if so, is there a guide anywhere about replacing the unit

Thanks in advance
 

olde guto

Active Member
Oct 1, 2014
6
1
My girlfriends ibiza only works in blower setting 4
I’ve had this problem on other vehicles and it was the heater resistor
Is this likely to be the cause on this model, and if so, is there a guide anywhere about replacing the unit

Thanks in advance

I've got the same question as the blower (non climate controlled) resistor pack on my MK5 has gone as well (few months out of warranty as well :censored: :censored:!).

99.9% sure it's the resistor pack as the same happened on my MK4 Polo and I did the resistor pack change myself - it was fiddly but doable.

There is a glovebox removal thread .../forums/showthread.php?t=322223 but no mention of whether the resistor pack is visible.

I'm going to have a bash at fixing it myself, and will try and photograph it and upload instructions (no promises though).
 

olde guto

Active Member
Oct 1, 2014
6
1
Right-o gents, good news and bad news.

Good news is I've managed to change the resistor pack without removing the dashboard, bad news is it's f-ing fiddly to do (took me about an hour to do and some of it will be done blind by feel alone).

I can't post links or upload attachments so I've just embedded the images from the image upload site I used - so they might disappear at any time...

Read through the step-by-step below first and then follow the instructions at your own risk (if you've got really big hands or aren't nimble fingered it might be too tricky, see the last picture for the state of my hand at the end).

First you're going to need some Torx bits (according to my bit set it's a T-20) and a knife or scissors to cut the soundproofing insulation with.

Step 1 - Remove the glovebox (the easy bit).

Unscrew all of the screws circled in red both in the glovebox and underneath (ignore the loose wire that's for my dashcam). I didn't have to do anything to the pegs circled in green (the glovebox just pulled out), but you might have to press the central bit in with a screwdriver or something. Pull out the glovebox, be warned the airbag switch is still connected, I managed to get away with doing the job without disconnecting it.

step1a.png

step1b.png


Step 2 - Get access to the pack

The resistor pack is located roughly where the red circle is so you'll either need to remove the white sound insulation material or cut it along the green lines - be very careful as there are a lot of wiring looms around you really really don't want to cut those!

step2.png


Step 3 - Locate and remove the pack

Now the fiddly stuff begins. The resistor pack is located where the red circle is behind a lot of wiring, you'll have to work around these cables, underneath and/or over the top. To remove the pack you'll need to give it an anti-clockwise twist, that will unlock it, then you'll need to turn it a bit more and then lift upwards to get it out.
step3a.png

step3b.png


Step 4 - Unclip the resistor pack cable and replace

There are toggle clips either side of the plug circled in red, press them inwards and pull-out the plug (remember how it was positioned and connected). Once that is done you can remove the resistor pack. This is where it might get even more fiddly, partially put the new pack back in and then reconnect the plug (it should only go in one way) - it could take several goes and you might need to find the resistor pack position that works best for yourself. Once plugged in put the resistor pack back in place and give a clockwise twist.
step4.png


Step 5 - Put everything back.

Put all the wiring back in the correct place if you moved, put the sound insulation back. Put the glovebox back it place, there's a white clip at the bottom of the passenger foot-well make sure the bottom of the glovebox gets slotted in there. Put the screws back and push-in those pegs (they didn't snap into place for me).

Survey any damage to yourself, if you want an idea of how fiddly this is this is my hand at the end.

hand.jpg
 
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Matthew

Active Member
Oct 17, 2017
6
0
Right-o gents, good news and bad news.

Good news is I've managed to change the resistor pack without removing the dashboard, bad news is it's f-ing fiddly to do (took me about an hour to do and some of it will be done blind by feel alone).

I can't post links or upload attachments so I've just embedded the images from the image upload site I used - so they might disappear at any time...

Read through the step-by-step below first and then follow the instructions at your own risk (if you've got really big hands or aren't nimble fingered it might be too tricky, see the last picture for the state of my hand at the end).

First you're going to need some Torx bits (according to my bit set it's a T-20) and a knife or scissors to cut the soundproofing insulation with.

Step 1 - Remove the glovebox (the easy bit).

Unscrew all of the screws circled in red both in the glovebox and underneath (ignore the loose wire that's for my dashcam). I didn't have to do anything to the pegs circled in green (the glovebox just pulled out), but you might have to press the central bit in with a screwdriver or something. Pull out the glovebox, be warned the airbag switch is still connected, I managed to get away with doing the job without disconnecting it.

step1a.png

step1b.png


Step 2 - Get access to the pack

The resistor pack is located roughly where the red circle is so you'll either need to remove the white sound insulation material or cut it along the green lines - be very careful as there are a lot of wiring looms around you really really don't want to cut those!

step2.png


Step 3 - Locate and remove the pack

Now the fiddly stuff begins. The resistor pack is located where the red circle is behind a lot of wiring, you'll have to work around these cables, underneath and/or over the top. To remove the pack you'll need to give it an anti-clockwise twist, that will unlock it, then you'll need to turn it a bit more and then lift upwards to get it out.
step3a.png

step3b.png


Step 4 - Unclip the resistor pack cable and replace

There are toggle clips either side of the plug circled in red, press them inwards and pull-out the plug (remember how it was positioned and connected). Once that is done you can remove the resistor pack. This is where it might get even more fiddly, partially put the new pack back in and then reconnect the plug (it should only go in one way) - it could take several goes and you might need to find the resistor pack position that works best for yourself. Once plugged in put the resistor pack back in place and give a clockwise twist.
step4.png


Step 5 - Put everything back.

Put all the wiring back in the correct place if you moved, put the sound insulation back. Put the glovebox back it place, there's a white clip at the bottom of the passenger foot-well make sure the bottom of the glovebox gets slotted in there. Put the screws back and push-in those pegs (they didn't snap into place for me).

Survey any damage to yourself, if you want an idea of how fiddly this is this is my hand at the end.

hand.jpg

Yours was the only guide I could find online to locate the little guy when my resistor failed yesterday, ordered the part from Amazon and all sorted today, thanks
 

MrQ

Active Member
Feb 5, 2016
27
0
Update, it is not neccessary to change whole resistor pack. it is possible to chane only small fuse (price is around 10 cents) which sits on the top ofthe pack. It will make a photo as soon as I camo home, I did it on my MK5 ibiza.
 
Jul 23, 2019
3
0
Hi,

My AC is now only running on speed 4 - so I suspect I'm having the same issue. Would this guide be applicable to my Ibiza (SEAT Ibiza ST 1.2 TDI Manual, 2012, 6J 1st Facelift)?

If so, great!

Also, is it easy to do without removing the plug for the passenger airbag? Or, should I remove the battery? How do I go about it to remove/disable the battery?
 
Aug 4, 2019
5
0
So my 59 plate altea seems to have a gremlin in the dash.

Heater works sometimes but not others.
Replaced the resistor but still only ever so often. Some times a gentle kick states the motor up. But if noticed a strange noise coming from the dash, I can only describe it as a gurning noise.

Help?!?!?!

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