Leon Lubricants - June'08

STEFanGB

Active Member
Nov 11, 2007
55
0
Seat, León, León 1.9 TDi (81 kW), 2000-2005
Manufacturer: Seat SA, Barcelona, Spain
Drive type: f.w.d.
Cilinder capacity: 1896 cc
Power output: 110 HP / 81 kW at 4150 RPM

Engine AHF, ASV
Capacity 4.5 liter
Filter capacity: 0.7 liter

Use: Normal

OEM recommendation
year-round VW 505.00 SAE 5W-50
year-round VW 505.00 SAE 10W-50
year-round VW 505.00 SAE 10W-60
Above -15 VW 505.00 SAE 15W-40
Above -15 VW 505.00 SAE 15W-50
Above -15 VW 505.00 SAE 20W-40
Above -15 VW 505.00 SAE 20W-50
Below 15 VW 505.00 SAE 5W-30
Below 15 VW 505.00 SAE 5W-40
From -15 to 15 VW 505.00 SAE 10W-30
From -15 to 15 VW 505.00 SAE 10W-40
year-round VW 505.01 SAE 5W-40
year-round VW 505.01 SAE 5W-30
year-round VW 507.00 SAE 5W-30

You may aswel put the best stuff in :)

507.00 5W-30 which covers 505.01 & 505.00.

Hope this helps.

Have U got a similar info for Cupra R AMK as for how much oil and which grades are accepted please?
Coz my mechanic suggesed to use Valvoline Racing VR1 10W-60 semi synth...
And on the bottle it doesn't say any VWxx.xx numbers only I could find is API: SL
Is this oil any good coz he's apparently using the same in his scooby
 

waftywoo

Active Member
Nov 18, 2004
73
0
Can anyone explain the "real world" differences between,
Millers Oils at £49.99 for 5 litres
Castrol Edge around £45 for 5 litres
Quantan Synta Platinum for £20 and
Halfords for £41.99 (free 8 piece screwdriver set!:)
Mobile one for £39.99

What will the difference be?
 

PnP

Active Member
Feb 28, 2010
5
0
Hi guys, I am driving Leon Cupra (year 2008), and I have chipped it recently, I am using Castrol Edge 5w30, but can I use Castrol Edge Sport 0w40 or 10w60? Thx!
 

Paul-adamson

Guest
Lubrication TFSi Sport 55 plate

Hi All just got my first Leon and its a real flying machine... looks like any other family car on the outside but she can move... Does anyone know if I can use Mobil 1 0W-40 ? :shrug: its VW 502 00 / 505 00 I have always used the best oils money can buy in my other cars and change oil and filter every year..

I'm open to any advice. also do I have to do maintenance on the 'Turbo'

My first post, so open to anyone who has any good advice

thanks :)
 

Nautilus

Active Member
Dec 9, 2006
547
2
Bucharest, Romania
Advice for the people who believe "best lubricants should last longer":

No lubricant, filter, belt or other consumable part is going to last even as long as VAG specifies on a modded LC or LCR, and their worst enemy is heat. 1.8Ts run very hot, and hot-cold cycles can destroy even the best consumables. "Longlife oil" may sound good, but in practice it can be shorter lived and take our engine with it when it dies.

So a plan to maintain our car in rougher or better road conditions and better be safe than sorry should run like this:

- each 10 000km (6000 miles) - oil change, plus air filter, oil filter and cabin air filter;

- each 20 000km (each 2nd oil change) - fuel filter under the car; check the sparkplugs and at the slightest sign of poor burning change them;

- each 30 000km (each 3rd oil change) - front LCA bushings (and also tyres should be rotated and alignment should be undertaken);

- each 40 000km (each 4th oil change) - tyres should be checked and changed if needed (people who do trackdays should have a set of tyres especially for this);

- each 60 000 km or 4 years - cam belt should be changed. Rest of the timing kit may be in pristine condition, but the rubber belt is not. Had a nasty cam belt breakup at 70 458 km. Coolant pump, especially if metal impeller type, can last long, maybe 2 or even 3 cam belt changes, up to the factory specified 180 000 kms;

- each 2 years - change the braking fluid (if you're the cheapskate kind of guy, do it only if it does become dark grey or brown after 2 years. Mine always did :) );

- each cam belt change - drain as much of the coolant as it pours from the system and change it.

Use only the best lubricants from Castrol, Mobil or other renowned producer. Use only metal impeller coolant pump.

Finally, get rid of P6000 tyres. They're crap :p

~Nautilus
 
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Nautilus

Active Member
Dec 9, 2006
547
2
Bucharest, Romania
Also: remind yourself each 2nd or 3rd oil change (20 000 or 30 000 kms), to rotate the tyres front to rear.

Have all 4 of them balanced and rotated. The difference in ride quality and steering precision is huge. Due to effort they need to withstand when cornering, even worse on a modded LC / LFR / LCR, they go quickly out of balance, and not only the steering wheel would shake at speed, but it will also tramline and jump at slower speeds. (And destroy our pristine aftermarket coilovers over time.)

Do not expect a set of tyres to last more than 4 oil changes (40 000 kms) or 3 years at best. Even if the tread is still deep and not worn, the rubber hardens, cracks, looses stickiness, seeps air out, turns the ride jumpy and bouncy.

Ideally they should be changed each 2 or 3 oil changes, if we could afford each time the ~400 GBP cost.

~Nautilus
 
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ChrisGTL

'Awesome' LCR225
Nov 17, 2007
2,459
2
Huddersfield
Can anyone explain the "real world" differences between,
Millers Oils at £49.99 for 5 litres
Castrol Edge around £45 for 5 litres
Quantan Synta Platinum for £20 and
Halfords for £41.99 (free 8 piece screwdriver set!:)
Mobile one for £39.99

What will the difference be?

I know this is old now but to answer;

Some may be a 'true' full synthetic, some many be ester based, some may be ester blends, some may be the same but the oil blending company is buying different amounts of additive/base stock hence the end-user price difference.

Density of the product is a big clue as to what quality it is. ;)
 

Nautilus

Active Member
Dec 9, 2006
547
2
Bucharest, Romania
The quality of each of the quoted oils and the hunting for "non-synthetic components inside them" makes little sense in practice.

The last oil change has been performed at 10 000 kms, 12 months and 7 days after the previous one. Same brand, Castrol Edge 5W30, VW code 504.00/507.00. But during the last 2000-3000 kms, there was some oil seep at the rocker cover gasket towards the exhaust manifold and the engine made some strange metallic noises when revved up over 4500 rpm. Just after oil change, noise disappeared and the seep diminished itself to nothing.

So oil degrades itself in time, regardless of quality and chemical composition, and we have to change it. Even if we use the most complex and expensive of all synthetic oils "to last longer", it still won't last enough time to matter.

(As a side note, the engine is pretty clean inside, as the oil even after 10 000 kms is not black, but a dark-caramel color. But even as there are little contaminants to mix with oil, oil itself still degrades.)
 

gacoart

Active Member
Mar 18, 2015
5
0
Leon Cupra R 2005 250cv

Hello, i just got a Leon Cupra R 2005, its modded to 250 cv or so i was told. i want to change the oil in it, but im not sure what kind to buy
Should i get the Castrol 5w-30 ?

Thanks,
 

Lant

Active Member
Dec 15, 2008
27
0
Tyne & Wear
Hi. Can anyone tell me how much oil it takes to fill an ARL engine from empty. Or at least where to find this info. Cheers
 

J4MRU

Active Member
Feb 20, 2016
15
0
Is the 1.8 20v (non turbo) car an unpopular choice? It doesn't seem to get a mention at all.

Can anyone advise on lubricants on this?
 
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