GUIDE: how to take apart interior of MK5 Ibiza coupe

MantaOwner

Active Member
Nov 28, 2015
96
1
Tallinn, Estonia
This guide is to show how to take apart the interior of MK5 Ibiza coupe. I did the work on a 2016 Ibiza Cupra 1.8TSI (LHD) in order to install noise isolation mats, the interior is probably similar on the earlier models but I'm not 100% sure about that.

As always, you do this work at your own risk, I don't take any responsibility if you break or ruin something in your car while doing this work.

Start with a passenger's seat, it's bolted to the floor by four M10 splined bolts.

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After removing the seat bolts a small storage compartment (it's optional) has to be removed in order to get to the four wire connectors under the seat, this compartment is fastened to the seat base by four T15 torx bolts.

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A flat-head screwdriver helps to get those connectors open, the fifth connector on the right may stay as it is.

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Each front seat has a side airbag in it, now this situation causes the airbag warning light to stay on on the dash but that was expected.

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After removing the passenger's seat take apart the center console.

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The only visible 2 torx screws are in the front below the dashboard, these need to be removed.

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There are 2 cross-head screws inside the storage compartment right next to the hinges of the lid, removing those doesn't do anything.

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The next step is to remove the thin square shaped aluminium frame around the gearstick gaiter, this is the toughest part to remove of them all. This frame is a bit flimsy and seems to break or get bent quite easily if some force is used to get it moving but at the same time it holds to it's position quite strongly. It helps to tape off surrounding panel on it's edges to protect plastic from scratches.

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To remove it, the back edge of the frame needs to be lifted with fingers and one of the sides with a small enough prying tool simultaneously.

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From there on it's using just hands and common sense, all parts are clipped together in a logical order. A multi-pin plug that connects to the button panel next to the gearstick needs to be removed in order to remove the big cover panel around the gearstick gaiter.

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A couple of small torx screws need to be removed near the sides (not the bigger bolts at the bottom).

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Next is the armrest. A round shaped side panel on the passenger's side needs to be removed first.

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A round shaped side panel on the other side is attached to the console with a small torx screw seen here.

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The armrest is attached to the console with one M10 splined bolt (like a seat bolt).

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A small torx screw on the bottom of the console seen here in the middle has to be removed.

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Then with a smaller/angled prying tool those two 2-part plastic clips need to be removed too.

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To remove the center console 2 wire connectors need to be disconnected.

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Then it's time to remove the back seat base, it just lifts up in 2 pieces and can then be taken out.

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To get the plastic side panels off the top piece on the B pillar has to come off first, then follows the big side panel and finally the floor trim piece. No prying tools are needed here, just fingers will do fine. And common sense.

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This top piece that has the seatbelt running through it, I took it out of the car later so it doesn't just hang around in the cabin but it's not needed actually (depends on if you need to drive around for a longer period of time without any interior plastic parts in place like I did).

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Some more clips holding the big panel.

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And one 2-piece clip holding the floor trim piece.

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To remove the big panel there are 2 torx screws on top of the B pillar, nicely hidden behind the seatbelt, those need to be undone.

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Some of the factory noise isolation/antivibration material is packed in a plastic bag to protect it from moisture.

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Next comes removing the floor trim piece that runs from the A pillar to the rear seat base.

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One M10 splined bolt that is hidden under the carpet holding the seatbelt rail can be removed now (it's needed only if the top piece on the B pillar that has the seatbelt running through it is going to be taken out of the car - see explanation above).

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The other M10 splined bolt holding the other end of the rail is hidden under the trim piece and is not visible.

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Seat has installed a quite thick carpet-like noise isolation mat on the floor that covers the whole floor (rear seat and trunk area excluded), I'm not sure if Ibizas with lower specs have it also.

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Tõnu
 

MantaOwner

Active Member
Nov 28, 2015
96
1
Tallinn, Estonia
Getting the driver's seat out is similar to taking out the passenger's one. The two rear seat bolts have a tap of some sort of glue on them to prevent the bolts from coming loose, coloured in purple.

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On the driver's seat there is one connector less to open (3 instead of 4), figured it to be for a sensor that detects whether there's someone sitting on the seat or not, this detection is obviously not needed on a driver's seat. Just for reference - the 4 connectors under the passenger's seat should be for (based on logic only, don't have a manual to confirm this): airbag, occupancy detection, seatbelt usage, seat heating.

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This is a type of a plastic clip that is used in many places in this car and it's difficult to remove it without really hurting it and making it more or less unusable. This particular clip holds a wire under the seat base that comes from under the carpet and runs to the seat's wire connectors.

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After taking out the driver's seat and rear side panels on the same side it's time to remove the hood release lever, it's a bit tricky. Basically there's a little slot on the back of the lever, the lever needs to be pulled to an open position, a 2-part clip that is holding the floor trim piece needs to be removed and then by using a small flat-head screwdriver the lever's back 'cover' comes off, it makes it possible to remove the lever by just pulling it off from it's shaft.

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Then it's time to get the carpet out, one round clip needs to be removed first where the pedals are.

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Then it's trunk time, first the floor panel and what's hidden under it needs to be removed, just by hand. No need to remove the battery.

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The rear panel can be removed by simply lifting it up.

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There are various screws and clips holding the side panels that need to be removed.

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The rear plastic side panel can be removed by hand starting from the rear end.

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From here on it's a bit tricky to get this panel off as this panel has an odd shape and it holds to its position quite strongly, it's the second toughest part to remove of them all. Some force needs to be used but do it sensibly.

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On the driver's side there is a trunk light attached to the panel that needs to be disconnected before removing the panel.

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The next thing to remove is the rear seat back.

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A flat-head screwdriver helps to pivot the gray catch to the rear. These before/after pics are taken of different ends of the seat back so it may be a bit confusing.

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Now the seat back can be lifted up a bit, pivoted at some angle and removed from the car.

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The seat back is in 2 pieces, the bigger part that is on the passenger's side can be removed from the car only after releasing the splined bolt attaching the seatbelt holder and one seatbelt buckle to the floor.

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Parts removed from the car.

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Almost getting there ..

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The last thing left to do before getting the factory noise isolation mat out is disconnecting the hand brake wire connector.

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There is another piece of factory noise isolation mat in the car that is covering the whole firewall, it's in one piece and seems to be attached to the firewall very firmly. It seems that the pedals need to be removed from the car to get it out.

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In conclusion I can say that this car's interior is put together very well, everything is quite logical and relatively easy to remove, there are only 3-4 special things, pointed out previously, that are needed to know before starting taking it apart.

Tõnu
 
Last edited:

Quiksilver

Active Member
May 7, 2016
243
2
Damn.. Sticky!!

Sticky!!:lol::funk::1st:

Hi Mate,
Did you removed the front door ? I hear it is one piece of work :(
Can you explain a little bit more on the rear side unit to replace the speakers ?
Basically I want to replace all speakers in the car..
Thanks,
Asaf.
 

MantaOwner

Active Member
Nov 28, 2015
96
1
Tallinn, Estonia
Haven't taken the door panels or headliner apart yet. How to take the door panel off (not my video/thread):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uC2CBsntvCo
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=250830

To remove the big rear side panel just use your hands and start pulling it from top on the B billar, then at some point you should be able to put your hand behind it and pull it off. Check the pics, there's one of the back side of the panel that shows the location of all white clips.

In general, if someone has no experience with dismantling a car's interior then it might be a better idea to visit a nearby caraudio shop or a place where they tint car windows for example and let them remove the panels needed. I've worked on some cars before over the years so I'm not doing this for the first time.

Tõnu
 

MantaOwner

Active Member
Nov 28, 2015
96
1
Tallinn, Estonia
B pillar:

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Pillars are counted from the front to the rear of the car so the A pillar is the metal 'pole' between a windshield and front door - where tweeters are usually installed.

Tõnu
 

Quiksilver

Active Member
May 7, 2016
243
2
that was my guess :)
thanks..
p.s. where do you get this schematics ? is it opened for all users ?
 

Quiksilver

Active Member
May 7, 2016
243
2
Lol not in this one specific, usually you post specific pictures for seat how to dismantle some parts..
that is what I mean..
 

MantaOwner

Active Member
Nov 28, 2015
96
1
Tallinn, Estonia
I see what you mean. I had zero information before I started this work, just using experience and common sense. The lack of information available was the reason behind posting this guide. Local Seat dealer wasn't helpful at all too as the car is brand new and has a warranty.

Tõnu
 

MantaOwner

Active Member
Nov 28, 2015
96
1
Tallinn, Estonia
I have used "door card", "door panel", "door trim" + car make/model/year (+ "removal").
If you happen to find something better for Ibiza's front door than this Youtube video and thread I mentioned before then please share.
I actually searched the whole internet .. twice (like Chuck Norris).
I'm going to take the doors apart on my car in June probably, need to finish installing noise isolation mats and wiring first.

Tõnu
 
Last edited:

MantaOwner

Active Member
Nov 28, 2015
96
1
Tallinn, Estonia
Ask your local dealer, there's a small chance they might offer that even if it's not listed in factory options list. At least in my country some dealers do cooperate with smaller companies that install car audio, sound dampening materials and tint windows. So these additional works will already be done when you drive away from a dealer with your new car.

Tõnu
 
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