Cupra revving in cycles from idle

  • Thread starter Deleted member 94519
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Deleted member 94519

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Odd problem just appeared about a week back on our Cupra mk2, hoping nothing critical!

Instead of idling smoothly at just under 1k rpm (I think it was about there anyway, maybe more like 750-800?) it's started revving up to 1.5k over about a second, then holding there for two seconds, then dropping back (over a second) to about 800 for two seconds, and repeating. This is in neutral or in gear with the clutch in (I've not tested whether it will accelerate the car on its own if the clutch is out but the accelerator not pressed).

Found a couple threads, one referring to DSG gearboxes in the mk3 so assuming that's not related, (although sounded a similar symptom) and one referring to a missing oil filler cap being the problem - so I'm going to double check that when the OH brings the car back - but any other ideas in case that's not it?

Thanks in advance! :confused:
 

Dan FR

Meth addict. Stage 2+ Yo!
Nov 14, 2013
1,794
8
Caerdydd
Screams vacuum leak... PCV is the common suspect, very quick and easy to check - simply unclip the plastic pipe from the right of the inlet (that goes to the PCV) and try to blow through it. If you can - it's faulty and needs replacing.
 

Keithio

Active Member
Oct 30, 2015
40
1
Middlesbrough
I had the exact same problem and it turned out to be the oil filler cap extension. These are just glued to the engine in order to bring the filler cap level with the engine cover and the glue had come away causing a vacuum leak. It was easy fixed I just did away with the extension and screwed the oil cap straight on to the engine. Might be worth checking yours.
 

iDan

Active Member
Feb 3, 2016
38
2
Worcester - West Midlands
Mine started doing exactly the same thing the other day, after plugging in diagnostics and having a quick check under the hood, ive pinpointed it to the PCV as mentioned by others. I have bought the PCV delete kit from forge to hopefully stop the problem arising again. Just waiting for delivery and then to fit it.
 

Deleted member 94519

Guest
Thanks, that's great, I'll check that out! Think Dave@Sere is going to have an enquiry in his inbox in a mo...

(Interesting idea on the PCV delete kit, thanks @iDan - does it have any benefits or drawbacks besides not having to worry about the PCV going again? Seems like there must be drawbacks, otherwise why have the PCV in the first place?)
 

Deleted member 94519

Guest
I had the exact same problem and it turned out to be the oil filler cap extension. These are just glued to the engine in order to bring the filler cap level with the engine cover and the glue had come away causing a vacuum leak. It was easy fixed I just did away with the extension and screwed the oil cap straight on to the engine. Might be worth checking yours.

Particularly handy little tip this one, I'll give the extension as well as the oil filler cap a good inspection!
 

iDan

Active Member
Feb 3, 2016
38
2
Worcester - West Midlands
@Nick666 As far as my limited research goes, the other alternative is to remove the pcv and add an oil catch can, but i think the delete is a cheaper method. It diverts the breathing to the rear cam cover outlet.

A direct quote from forge: "it removes the PCV and links the two internal ports together which emulates what happens inside the stock PCV when the engine is on boost, but without any fragile components to break or split."
 

Deleted member 94519

Guest
Hmm. It doesn't seem to me that Forge's blurb really explains the potential downsides - after all, presumably there IS a reason to have the valve there in the first place. Think I'll probably have it replaced stock, but I'll be interested to see what your results are like in 6 months! :)
 

Dan FR

Meth addict. Stage 2+ Yo!
Nov 14, 2013
1,794
8
Caerdydd
Valve is there to minimise crankcase pressure which the Forge item will increase. Either get a new PCV or get a full PCV delete from R-Tech which vents to atmosphere
 

Deleted member 94519

Guest
So the oil filler cap was on just fine. With the engine running, I pulled out the dipstick and massive suction noise and the engine starts running rough. Which is classic faulty PCV right? Anyway, I've ordered a replacement from Dave (as well as the charcoal filter which also came up as a fault) so should be right as rain soon enough...

So thanks everyone for the tips and advice, all very much appreciated!
 

vfr400racer

Active Member
May 21, 2014
89
1
Kent
If engine runs rough with dipstick out then pcv ok aslong as engine returns to normal when dipstick replaced. May still not be at its best though
 

Deleted member 94519

Guest
If engine runs rough with dipstick out then pcv ok aslong as engine returns to normal when dipstick replaced. May still not be at its best though

No it hunts when you put the dipstick back in. But it runs really rough if you take it out. You don't think that's the PCV then?
 

vfr400racer

Active Member
May 21, 2014
89
1
Kent
No it hunts when you put the dipstick back in. But it runs really rough if you take it out. You don't think that's the PCV then?

Thatll most probably be the pcv but could also be a vac leak from one of the connecting pipes. worth a check
 

Igor23

Growing old disgracefully
Dec 7, 2006
495
0
Loughborough
Mine started doing this yesterday, on the way to work this morning, I suddenly had no brake servo assist, and an extremely solid brake pedal! Turns out it was a split vacuum hose, the S shaped one from the VVT unit to my Forge DV valve adaptor. Temporary fixed with insulating tape, new pipe fitting tomorrow... Very scary to drive with no servo tho'...
 

Deleted member 94519

Guest
Blimey, I bet! I've ordered a new PCV so we'll see if it fixes it, otherwise a hose inspection is next I guess!
 

Euan1P

Active Member
Mar 8, 2016
110
0
Edinburgh
I had a similar issue, turned out to be the, it turned out the be the plastic vacuum pipe that connects the PCV to the block, it was in 3 pieces rendering it useless, changed the pipe and all was good.