Ibiza 2010 Boot won't open!

Rob66

Full Member
Apr 25, 2004
1,620
93
UK
Hi guys

Have done a search and a few things on Google but all for earlier cars.

gf just got home and the boot is locked shut, I have tried locking and unlocking a few times but nothing, any help appreciated, is there an emergency internal release?

Thank you Rob
 

Rob66

Full Member
Apr 25, 2004
1,620
93
UK
Thanks mate doesn't appear to be anything in the owners manual I has a good look through yesterday, I saw the horizontal slot and did wonder, I'll have a look at that this morning.

Cheers for replying.
 

Rob66

Full Member
Apr 25, 2004
1,620
93
UK
Hi again

Tried the slot, and felt the mechanism move, the tailgate now lifts about 1/2 inch but looks like the lock hasn't disengaged, so wont fully open. When I lock and unlock there is no sound coming from the lock, so looks like could be the solenoid.

Trip to the dealership I guess?
 

RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,784
983
South Scotland
That is a nuisance, though sometimes I've found that the hatch does only release that amount the first time that I grab the handle! I would have expected that the "key in the slot" would have released the lock first time every time - but I was wrong! Yes if you can not replace these bits yourself it will mean a trip to the dealer!
 

Fmxvxx

Active Member
Dec 21, 2014
388
3
IF you cant get it open you can climb into the boot and undo the 2 bolts holding the boot trim on remove the boot trim and there is a white latch move the white latch to open the boot then use an m8 socket to remove the 2x bolts holding the mechanism and undo the 1x electrical connector swap out for a new unit put the trim panel on 2x t20 and on your way.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Woody_72

Rob66

Full Member
Apr 25, 2004
1,620
93
UK
Thanks Em

The bolts have an unusual shape head (polydrive I think) am going to have another look in a minute see if I can find anything suitable to remove them.
 

Fmxvxx

Active Member
Dec 21, 2014
388
3
Bolts holding the trim on are torx bolts and the bolts holding the lock are multi spline.
 

RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,784
983
South Scotland
Ah well, only labour costs no parts, I had not considered that as I thought that VAG cars generally avoided that issue that I last had in a 1984 Fiesta that my wife had a long long time ago!

Edit:- I'd check the emergency release again as I'd hope that it would have worked for you before and after this failure.
 
Last edited:

Atomo

Active Member
Jun 29, 2016
1
0
Hello folks. Very similar problem with mine by the sound of things. Checked the wires and all look good so I'm thinking it must be something inside the handle unit itself (maybe wrong) if I was too buy a new handle unit would it just plug in and play so to speak. (No mapping required or anything too technical?) cheers
 

RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,784
983
South Scotland
Hello folks. Very similar problem with mine by the sound of things. Checked the wires and all look good so I'm thinking it must be something inside the handle unit itself (maybe wrong) if I was too buy a new handle unit would it just plug in and play so to speak. (No mapping required or anything too technical?) cheers

I have never replaced a rear hatch solenoid, but no, that job will not involve any re-coding etc, it is just a electro mechanical device you are replacing.
 

everson38

Active Member
May 15, 2017
470
35
walsall
Smae issue but seems abit deeper....NEED HELP

Hey guys would love it if someone could cast their yes over my problem as it sits in two worlds of boot wont open but also noticed some fuse issues? I ll just copy and paste as have been looking for answers for awhile now

Hey guys i am newbie to this, just joined today. But thought would be good if i posted an image of the fuse box ALSO WITH LABELLED TAGS TO SHOW YOU WHERE EACH FUSE IS STATED BY OWNERS MANUAL. As we all know where to find it be seat dont seem to put an illustration on the cover to tell you which slot is which??? see image 1


Now i have a problem with my fuse box. I bought my car brand new back in 2009 so i am only owner. But my boot is not working. you press the button on key fob and nothing, try opening it via seat logo switch and nothing. I looked in my fuse box and based on the owners manual, i appear to have two fuses the wrong spec. (See pic 2) . Slot 45 is supposedly for rear window heater and should be a yellow 20 ampbut there appears to be a green 30 amp?

slot 48 is for Locking Unit and should be a blue 15amp fuse but a white 25amp is in its place? Now could this be related as the colour of fuses are there for a reason and if i am right with fuses slot layout then these are incorrect? but would this be cause my boot to fail from working?

Sorry for long post, but hope it helps someone and hopefully someone can help me back.

If the pictures are not showing you can go to my flickr and see them both at https://www.flickr.com/photos/829851...h/34289038550/ i only have two pictures on there
 

everson38

Active Member
May 15, 2017
470
35
walsall
Same issue seems abit deeper.

I have never replaced a rear hatch solenoid, but no, that job will not involve any re-coding etc, it is just a electro mechanical device you are replacing.

RUM4MO Ive seen you on forum and you seem quite knowledable was hoping if you could cast an eye:

Hey guys would love it if someone could cast their yes over my problem as it sits in two worlds of boot wont open but also noticed some fuse issues? I ll just copy and paste as have been looking for answers for awhile now

Hey guys i am newbie to this, just joined today. But thought would be good if i posted an image of the fuse box ALSO WITH LABELLED TAGS TO SHOW YOU WHERE EACH FUSE IS STATED BY OWNERS MANUAL. As we all know where to find it be seat dont seem to put an illustration on the cover to tell you which slot is which??? see image 1


Now i have a problem with my fuse box. I bought my car brand new back in 2009 so i am only owner. But my boot is not working. you press the button on key fob and nothing, try opening it via seat logo switch and nothing. I looked in my fuse box and based on the owners manual, i appear to have two fuses the wrong spec. (See pic 2) . Slot 45 is supposedly for rear window heater and should be a yellow 20 ampbut there appears to be a green 30 amp?

slot 48 is for Locking Unit and should be a blue 15amp fuse but a white 25amp is in its place? Now could this be related as the colour of fuses are there for a reason and if i am right with fuses slot layout then these are incorrect? but would this be cause my boot to fail from working?

Sorry for long post, but hope it helps someone and hopefully someone can help me back.

If the pictures are not showing you can go to my flickr and see them both at https://www.flickr.com/photos/829851...h/34289038550/ i only have two pictures on there
 

RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,784
983
South Scotland
Okay, I thought that I had posted today via my iPhone, but it appears not!

So, first of all, main fuse box layout as I can't see your pictures, For a 2009/2010 car looking at the fuse box in the car and starting with the groups of MINI fuses, top row of mini fuses are 1 > 8 reading left to right, middle row of mini fuses are 9 > 16 reading left to right, bottom row of mini fuses are 17 > 24 reading left to right. Next groups of ATO fuses, top row of ato fuse are 25 > 41 reading left to right and bottom row of ato fuse are 42 > 58 reading left to right.

Edit:- 45 is GREEN 30 Amp (manual quotes yellow 20 Amp) 48 is WHITE 25 Amp (manual quotes BLUE 15 Amp)

Another Edit:- my daughter has owned that car from new, so that car agrees with your one also owned from new by you, other "errors" are 18 is BROWN 7.5 Amp (manual quotes BEIGE 5 Amp), 20 is YELLOW 20 Amp (manual quotes BLUE 15 Amp), 22 is BLUE 15 Amp (manual quotes BEIGE 5 Amp), 23 is RED 10 Amps (manual quotes BROWN 7.5 Amp), 24 is BEIGE 5 Amp (manual quotes RED 7.5 Amp), 29 is BLUE 15 Amp (manual quotes YELLOW 20 Amp), 32 is RED 10 Amp (manual quotes BLUE 15 Amp) - listed as diesel engine controller, but this car has a petrol engine!

So, you can't believe much of what SEAT commit to print in their owners manuals, no better for VW, wife's August 2015 Polo has very few fuses covered by the owner's manual - for others "talk to dealer" - idiots!

Anyway, so I think that you should now ignore any "wrong" fuses that you find and maybe try using the search function on this forum as there has been, in the last few months, been a few threads on this very problem. Roughly speaking you have about or at least three fault "options" in no real order:- (1) broken wire where the wire pass out of the car into the hatch (2) a failed locking unit in the hatch (3) water ingress into the plug<>socket on the power supply to the locking unit. I'd think that the hatch rear trim needs to come off, that can be a nasty job so take care to minimise any breakages to the rear trim panel.
 
Last edited:

everson38

Active Member
May 15, 2017
470
35
walsall
sorry try these links

Okay, I thought that I had posted today via my iPhone, but it appears not!

So, first of all, main fuse box layout as I can't see your pictures, For a 2009/2010 car looking at the fuse box in the car and starting with the groups of MINI fuses, top row of mini fuses are 1 > 8 reading left to right, middle row of mini fuses are 9 > 16 reading left to right, bottom row of mini fuses are 17 > 24 reading left to right. Next groups of ATO fuses, top row of ato fuse are 25 > 41 reading left to right and bottom row of ato fuse are 42 > 58 reading left to right.

Edit:- 45 is GREEN 30 Amp (manual quotes yellow 20 Amp) 48 is WHITE 25 Amp (manual quotes BLUE 15 Amp)

Another Edit:- my daughter has owned that car from new, so that car agrees with your one also owned from new by you, other "errors" are 18 is BROWN 7.5 Amp (manual quotes BEIGE 5 Amp), 20 is YELLOW 20 Amp (manual quotes BLUE 15 Amp), 22 is BLUE 15 Amp (manual quotes BEIGE 5 Amp), 23 is RED 10 Amps (manual quotes BROWN 7.5 Amp), 24 is BEIGE 5 Amp (manual quotes RED 7.5 Amp), 29 is BLUE 15 Amp (manual quotes YELLOW 20 Amp), 32 is RED 10 Amp (manual quotes BLUE 15 Amp) - listed as diesel engine controller, but this car has a petrol engine!

So, you can't believe much of what SEAT commit to print in their owners manuals, no better for VW, wife's August 2015 Polo has very few fuses covered by the owner's manual - for others "talk to dealer" - idiots!

Anyway, so I think that you should now ignore any "wrong" fuses that you find and maybe try using the search function on this forum as there has been, in the last few months, been a few threads on this very problem. Roughly speaking you have about or at least three fault "options" in no real order:- (1) broken wire where the wire pass out of the car into the hatch (2) a failed locking unit in the hatch (3) water ingress into the plug<>socket on the power supply to the locking unit. I'd think that the hatch rear trim needs to come off, that can be a nasty job so take care to minimise any breakages to the rear trim panel.


My apologies for link not working if you try:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/82985166@N03/with/34289038550/

that should work. I see what you mean with some of the fuses not being written EXACTLY, i find the silly because if you cant trust your manual you could surely be doing lots of issues to the fuse box if you were to change them around???

I have had the boot open and looked with my dad. The 'S' logo switch appears to be fine as we tested it for resistance and continity. The wires look perfect can see no visible damage but they are wrapped in this black meshing, you on see the first inch or so before the wrapping of the mesh starts. I looked at the connectors and they look brand new, no signs of water damage. The only thing we did notice ill try my best to explain, when my dad was hooking my multimeter to the solenoid connection pins on the wire, NOT the actual solenoid lock part, we unscrew that and had it to one side. It was dropping voltage or something along those lines.

If it is a wiring issue, what type of fix is that, is it a must take to SEAT for them to re wire it all up again?? or something simple. Sorry if being abit vague.

Thanks again rum40 it people like you that really help out and ease worries and shed some light when its looking very bleak.
 

RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,784
983
South Scotland
For some unknown, but clever reason, when I started chasing this battery discharging problem, I too took pictures of the exposed fuse box, found a drawing of the fuse locations by numbers, printed that off and created a table of fuses - types, rating and function from the owner's handbook, then compared that to the actual fuse box into that car - before starting to selectively remove fuses to try to eliminate where the battery drain was coming from.

Back to your problem:- if you connected a voltmeter across the pins of the locking unit that actually operate the release - I can't say more as I have not studied that part of that car - if you operate either lock/unlock of the hatch from the internal switch or the key fob, you should only see a quick change in value as it will only be pulse and not a steady hard 12V . typically any wire breakage will be within the rubber convoluted protector that covers the wiring as it transitions from the car's main body into the hatch area. Maybe try to firmly manipulate that soft rubber to see if you can feel any unusual, like a chopped section of wire, I have only had this problem once and it was in a Ford Fiesta and it was obvious when I squeezed etc the soft rubber wiring harness protector, well maybe I've found that one other time on my mates old SAAB 9-5 same easy bit of fault finding. Now if you do find this, you will then need to try to pull that wire back through into the hatch area, splice a new length of suitably rated wire onto it including heat shrink protection against it shorting out, then using something like a stiff length of thinnish wire as a fish, push that stiff length of wire back along through the soft rubber protector making sure that you do not damage it, and into the main car area. Remove any plastic panelling you need to and pull the new section of wire back through into the main car body while making sure that the actual repair point is still located in the hatch. Locate the other end of that chopped wire and pull it make through into the main car body, splice it to the new section of wire adding heatshrink for protection - job done! I would always make sure that any joins are kept away from the area being flexed - just makes for good sense. Now check that there are no more damaged or chopped wires. Of cource it could be that it only the locking unit that is faulty - can you manipulate the locking elements to make sure that nothing has seized?
 

everson38

Active Member
May 15, 2017
470
35
walsall
For some unknown, but clever reason, when I started chasing this battery discharging problem, I too took pictures of the exposed fuse box, found a drawing of the fuse locations by numbers, printed that off and created a table of fuses - types, rating and function from the owner's handbook, then compared that to the actual fuse box into that car - before starting to selectively remove fuses to try to eliminate where the battery drain was coming from.

Back to your problem:- if you connected a voltmeter across the pins of the locking unit that actually operate the release - I can't say more as I have not studied that part of that car - if you operate either lock/unlock of the hatch from the internal switch or the key fob, you should only see a quick change in value as it will only be pulse and not a steady hard 12V . typically any wire breakage will be within the rubber convoluted protector that covers the wiring as it transitions from the car's main body into the hatch area. Maybe try to firmly manipulate that soft rubber to see if you can feel any unusual, like a chopped section of wire, I have only had this problem once and it was in a Ford Fiesta and it was obvious when I squeezed etc the soft rubber wiring harness protector, well maybe I've found that one other time on my mates old SAAB 9-5 same easy bit of fault finding. Now if you do find this, you will then need to try to pull that wire back through into the hatch area, splice a new length of suitably rated wire onto it including heat shrink protection against it shorting out, then using something like a stiff length of thinnish wire as a fish, push that stiff length of wire back along through the soft rubber protector making sure that you do not damage it, and into the main car area. Remove any plastic panelling you need to and pull the new section of wire back through into the main car body while making sure that the actual repair point is still located in the hatch. Locate the other end of that chopped wire and pull it make through into the main car body, splice it to the new section of wire adding heatshrink for protection - job done! I would always make sure that any joins are kept away from the area being flexed - just makes for good sense. Now check that there are no more damaged or chopped wires. Of cource it could be that it only the locking unit that is faulty - can you manipulate the locking elements to make sure that nothing has seized?


Thanks RUM4MO, The wiring part sounds abit complex for a new diy'er like me lol, may be a SEAT job if it turns out to be that. I have played with the latch and it has not seized it works via the manual over ride and also if you eengage it by pressing a screwdrvier up into it. Do you know how much seat charge for this part and if they are returnable because if it turns out not to be latch i dont want to be out of pocket?
 
Genuine SEAT Parts and Accessories.