Thermostat replacement 110TDi

Zardoz

Active Member
Sep 6, 2016
525
214
North West
Need to get round to replacing a few bits and pieces on my car to finally stop it going into Limp Mode. Thanks to this place I've found great guides and links for me to follow. I'll be cleaning out the EGR valve and replacing the MAF(MAP?) sensor too.

However I'm struggling to find anything specific to my car 110TDi for finding and replacing the Thermostat (temp gauge is normally on zero, occasionally goes up a notch or two when it feels like it). Can anyone point me in the right direction?

TA
 

chriswales6

Active Member
Mar 2, 2016
294
47
Sounds like your coolant temperature sensor (CTS) needs replacing. If you have VCDS this can be confirmed by checking the coolant temperature reading.

Had it replaced on my TDI 110 a few years ago, the gauge started giving strange reading then stopped work completely. Also had the thermostat replaced just for good measure since the car was 10 years old at that point.

Didn’t cost much at a back street garage, it’s a fairly easy job if you’re going the DIY route.
 

Zardoz

Active Member
Sep 6, 2016
525
214
North West
Cheers Chris, I don't have VCDS but I do have an ODB scanner so I'll see if anything specific gets flagged up.

Think I'll replace both parts you mention, I'll price them up and have a go myself.



I mentioned limp mode in my first post it's been getting gradually worse over the last few weeks and last night it went into it 3 times on the way home... It ran really well this morning, didn't miss a beat. I can redline it in 1st and 2nd gear but if I accelerate fast in 3rd that's when it normally triggers.
 

chriswales6

Active Member
Mar 2, 2016
294
47
Sadly a standard OBD scanner won’t show any details on a failed CTS.

The 110 TDI has the AHF engine code and was used by VW, Audi, Seat & Skoda so you’ll find guides on line and YouTube.

Mine was dropping into limp mode above 3k revs in 3rd and 4th gears. The ECU limits the turbo boost in 1st and 2nd gears which is why it isn’t over boosting. But I wouldn’t recommend taking the engine to red line in 2nd gear often and certainly not in 1st gear. There’s lots of information online about limp mode on TDIs but a basic outline:

The turbo uses control vanes to adjust the air flow so it responds well at low and high engine speeds. If the vanes get stuck then the ECU will trigger the limp mode to stop the turbo over speeding. Check the VNT control arm on the turbo, if it’s sticky clean the turbo. If it moves freely check the vacuum line and control valve.

My limp mode problem went away when I started doing a 70 mile daily commute, the turbo was getting hot enough to burn off the exhaust soot/carbon.
 

Zardoz

Active Member
Sep 6, 2016
525
214
North West
Certainly don't redline it all the time :D Only did it to see what circumstances would trigger limp mode.

Thanks for the info, sadly been here before, had my MAF sensor and coolant sensor replaced in the past which did the trick for a while but now I'd rather dostuff myself as the garage involved is no longer being used (Had no end of trouble when they worked on my wife car last year).

This is why I'm on here so much more, looking at how to's :D

Just ordered a CTS now so I'll start with that first.

Thanks again.
 

Zardoz

Active Member
Sep 6, 2016
525
214
North West
Mine was dropping into limp mode above 3k revs in 3rd and 4th gears.
Exactly how mine behaving.

The turbo uses control vanes to adjust the air flow so it responds well at low and high engine speeds. If the vanes get stuck then the ECU will trigger the limp mode to stop the turbo over speeding. Check the VNT control arm on the turbo, if it’s sticky clean the turbo. If it moves freely check the vacuum line and control valve.
Last year I took mine to ADS Tuners in Preston to see about a remap, they gave my car a health check and said I was loosing boost at the time and that they wouldn't remap without fixing the problem first. They did rule out the actuator arm as I remember them saying it had free movement so I'll see if its the vacuum line and control valve like you say.
 

Zardoz

Active Member
Sep 6, 2016
525
214
North West
Going off topic, sorry, but could a badly blocked EGR valve be the culprit? Keep meaning to clean mine out as its even got oily deposits coming down from the "UFO". Sorry for being so technical :D
 

chriswales6

Active Member
Mar 2, 2016
294
47
If you’re losing boost check the air tubes and connectors on the turbo and intercooler to see if any are loose or split.

If you don’t know the history of the car then it’s worth either cleaning or removing the EGR. I’ve had the electric wires unplugged from the EGR vacuum control valve for 12 years. I’d recommend cleaning the EGR then disconnecting the wires from the valve – make sure you do the right valve otherwise you’ll have no turbo response :cry:
 

Zardoz

Active Member
Sep 6, 2016
525
214
North West
After a little more digging I think I need to replace all my coolant too :(

Was always the pink G12(?) stuff in there and the garage must have used green or blue cheap sh*t to top it up as I noticed it was brown when I had it back after the temp sensor was done over a year ago. Now I've read that you should never mix the two as it can damage the engine.
 

chriswales6

Active Member
Mar 2, 2016
294
47
You could flush the coolant system and replace with new coolant.

But my coolant has been brown for a few years and goes a bit frothy (like coffee) when the engine is running. Scared me at first and had a garage check for a blown head gasket, they said it was fine so it’s still in the car.

Happened sometime after the CTS and thermostat were changed which maybe related or just that the car is 15 years old.
 

Muttley

Catch that diesel!
Mar 17, 2006
4,987
31
North Kent
chriswales, the engine in a TDI 110 Mk.1 Leon is more likely to be ASV rather than AHF. The only differences I know of are that the ASV has oil cooled pistons, different injectors and different software in the ECU, the latter two to meet newer EU emissions standard (D3) compared to the AHF.

Limp mode is likely to be stuck turbo vanes, a reasonably common problem on engines that are used mostly for short-distance communting - diesels in general are not best suited for such work as they never get warm enough to work properly. They are *much* better for longer-haul work, with a decent amount of running at "cruise", 50-70 mph.
 

Zardoz

Active Member
Sep 6, 2016
525
214
North West
Thanks Muttley. Mine does get a good run each day 20mile commute each way down A roads so regularly cruising along at those speeds. Just weird how sometimes, like this morning, it drove really well.

I'll just get everything looked at and replaced if needs be.
 

chriswales6

Active Member
Mar 2, 2016
294
47
Yes Muttley the MK1 110 is normally a ASV, but it’s often better to search for the old AHF code when looking for guides and videos online.

I got limp mode when my commute was 10 miles each way. After a forced move of work locations, I now spend an hour on the motorway. No more limp mode and the car is running better. So yes diesels much prefer to be used a lot, even more so if you have a newer one with a DPF.

The turbo on the 110 seems to respond well with the oven cleaner fix. Although if the car is mainly used on short trips (less than 30 minutes) the problem is likely to return.
 

verbal_kint

Active Member
Apr 15, 2010
639
31
North West Kent
Or an ALH as in my 110.

If it's never been cleaned then the EGR would be my first check. Easy to undo the connecting hose and look for loads of lovely black carbon build-up.

If it's there then odds are the turbo will have some and the inlet manifold as well. Luckily it's a fairly easy job to dismantle all if you want a thorough job done and use of a couple of cans of poundland oven cleaner. Just get new gaskets in for reassembly.
 
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Zardoz

Active Member
Sep 6, 2016
525
214
North West
Attacked the EGR valve today. Bloody fiddly those bolts underneath!

Really gunked up in there so hopefully see some improvement once it’s cleaned up and back on tomorrow.

https://ibb.co/fhZadb
 
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chriswales6

Active Member
Mar 2, 2016
294
47
Doesn't look that bad to be honest. Often on the newer cars big lumps of carbon and oil are blocking it restricting the air flow.

It'll always have oil in there because the PCV is connected air intake.
 

Zardoz

Active Member
Sep 6, 2016
525
214
North West
Hmmm, where does the oil actually leak out from then? The valve’s underneath and it all looks sealed up on top?
 

Zardoz

Active Member
Sep 6, 2016
525
214
North West
Oh and bringing the thread back round on topic, looks like I’ll be getting a thermostat from my brother in law for mine. Bought one for his mk4 golf but it’s a faff to get to it (alternator and other stuff has to come off first!) so he’s giving it to me. #Result
 
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