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Old 29-10-2011, 08:50   #1
TimSawf
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Mk 2 Leon, Sealing the Bonnet Strip

This is a very straight forward procedure and requires no special skills

Tools required :
T-25 Torque bit
Pliers
Scissors / Knife
Cleaning materials

The Bonnet Strip is held in place by torque screws along the back and plastic clips along the front. Once the bonnet insulation is removed, you can see the underside of the clips. Just press the 2 legs together and push it through the hole. The 2 end clips can be awkward as they are behind the hinge plate. I used a pair of decorating scissors (long thin blades) to compress the 2 legs. The clip can easily be turned if it’s not in the right position to compress.



For those who haven’t yet removed the Bonnet Strip, this is a cross section (not to scale) of what it’s like underneath. There is a 13-14mm gap between the Bonnet Strip and the recess in the bonnet. The Bonnet Strip is quite thin and flexible, any sealing strip has to be compressed enough to make a good seal but not ask the Bonnet Strip to apply too much pressure or it will bow in between the clips. This will leave it proud of the bonnet, look bad, but worse still, air could get under it at speed and rip it off.

I did try putting a foam rubber strip as far forward as possible where the gap between the bonnet recess and Bonnet Strip was at its’ narrowest. Unfortunately, this meant putting the seal on the slope where the bonnet recesses. It did seal it but after a few days, it started leaking. When I took it off, the downward pressure from the Bonnet Strip had dislodged the seal. I moved the seal back where it would be on a flat surface so any pressure would be directly downwards and shouldn’t dislodge. This meant sealing a gap of 13-14mm and leaving more area in front of the seal where water could collect.



The seals I chose (both self-adhesive) were a 10mm wide x 5mm thick closed cell foam rubber strip and a 12mm wide x 10mm thick hollow ‘D’ profile ‘bumper’ seal. The bumper seal is very soft, requires very little pressure to compress it and forms a very good waterproof seal. As you can see from the photo, that is 15mm compressed down to 13mm and the seal is more than sufficient to withstand vertical standing water. These materials are readily available on the internet and, depending on the quantity you buy, should cost between £12-15.





Ensure the surfaces are clean and free from any grease. I placed the 5mm seal in the bonnet recess between the fixing holes for the clips and the slope. There is only just enough room for a 10mm wide seal. I placed the bumper seal on the underside of the bonnet strip up against the raised section for the clips. This position should enable the seals to be in the correct position to form a watertight seal. There is also a drain hole in the centre of the bonnet recess just where the 5mm strip is fitted. This should be sealed.



Water can also get in at either corner at the back of the Bonnet Strip. There is a cut out in the lip near the wiper spindle. Water tests on the windscreen showed water does get in here as well.



As you can see, it is a little awkward to fit a seal across the back as the fixings get in the way. The gap is again 13-14mm so the same seal will suffice. I found it easier to fit both seals to the underside of the Bonnet Strip, 5mm seal on the Strip and the bumper seal on the 5mm seal. It needs to be right up against the fixings (as far forward as possible) as the bonnet recess does not go back as far as the Bonnet Strip.

When re-fitting the Bonnet Strip, it is advisable to ensure all the clips are poking through the holes in the bonnet before applying pressure and engaging any of the clips.

To fit the seal as shown requires 2.3 metres of each seal. The eagle eyed members will see that I have a join in my seal. I ordered 2 metres but it came in 2 x 1 metre lengths. The join is only butted together and has not leaked. It has been constantly tested since fitting about 7 weeks ago and no water is leaking under the Bonnet Strip. The bonnet insulation is staying dry and no water runs out of the back and into the engine bay if you open the bonnet after it rains. The only water that comes out is at either end of the Bonnet Strip (the water that collects in front of the seal) but that runs harmlessly into the drain channel. Very little water runs out, less than I expected. That water will get dispersed if the car is used.

As a precaution, you may want to obtain some replacement clips, they can wear if the Bonnet Strip is removed a few times. I only replaced about 3 clips and my Strip has been removed 7 times in total

I am certain there are other methods to successfully seal the Bonnet Strip, I don’t claim this is the only way to do it.

A few key words to search for when looking for these strips are EPDM, D Profile and foam rubber. Google brings up a lot of manufacturers and bulk sales, E-Bay is probably better for smaller quantities.

Last edited by TimSawf; 29-10-2011 at 11:26. Reason: Update
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Old 29-10-2011, 09:52   #2
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Excellent guide! Have linked to this from my post in the Common MK2 Problem Log thread.
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Old 02-01-2012, 20:04   #3
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Quite a detailed post. Excellent.
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Old 14-01-2012, 00:33   #4
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Thank you!
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MK2 PRE-FL LEON TFSI SPORT - APR K04
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Old 04-02-2012, 00:29   #5
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just to let you know guys if your car is under warrenty this is a TPI for this and it comes under warrenty and you even get new soundproofing
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Old 04-02-2012, 10:51   #6
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Lugsy

http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/show...hlight=scuttle

Thanks for that. Not sure if you have seen the thread above but it just about covers every aspect of this problem. The SEAT solution detailed in their TPI doesn't always cure the problem. A lot have members have resorted to sealing it themselves and SEAT won't seem to take responsibility if it's out of warranty, even though the problem has existed since the model was introduced.
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Old 18-06-2012, 21:05   #7
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Tim

I have noticed that your panel seems different from mine in the pictures. My panel has an inset in it or have you remove this.
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Old 19-06-2012, 16:21   #8
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No. On mine, the underside is smooth apart from the mountings for the clips.

Does it look a bit like this. This is the picture from ElsaWin (workshop manual) which is nothing like mine. As far as I could find out, there have been 3 earlier versions discontinued in 2006, 2007 and 2008.

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Old 21-06-2012, 17:10   #9
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Yes the picture above is the type my car has fitted.
Going by the instructions in the link fitting the rubber seal isnt possible in this type as there isn't enough room. Might have to use duck tape or some other method??
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Old 21-06-2012, 22:20   #10
TimSawf
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Sorry for the confusion, I did check at the time to see if there were different Bonnet Strips but couldn't find any. It was only when you mentioned yours was different, I looked a bit deeper. The current one ends with 699R and the previous ones are 699G and 699K. For some reason, they missed out a load of letters.

If the picture is accurate, it looks a lot more rigid than the current one and should be able to compress harder seals without bowing. The EPDM Rubber Sponge comes in various thickness's and widths. I don't know what the size of the gap will be under this Strip but the general principle may well still apply
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Old 24-06-2012, 11:40   #11
MIKE THOMPSON
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Water on left side under bonnet leaking through from scuttle.

I have attempted the seal fix on two occasions seems to work fine on offside under bonnet but water still somehow gets under bonnet and past the seal on the driver's side.Diagonal patch of dampness on sound proofing material under bonnet from nearside top near wiper corner to nsf front of car.

I have a new soundproofing pad but will not fit until sorted and will use the old one as the test for water.
Any ideas? A stupid design fault. 2007 Leon FR -otherwise car is god now at 52k and out of warranty!

Cheers

Mike
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Old 25-06-2012, 00:02   #12
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It's difficult to guess where the water might be getting in. As it says in the guide, I found 2 places where the water got in, all along the front curved edge of the Bonnet Strip and in the corner by the wiper arm where there is a cut out in the lip at the back. I would suggest doing a water test on those 2 areas to try and narrow it down.

Put some newspaper or plastic over the engine in that corner (to show up any water leak) and spray water on the bonnet and Bonnet Strip only. Then do the same on the nearside of the windscreen and 'A' pillar (making sure no water sprays on the bonnet). Obviously check under the bonnet after each test. If one of them causes a leak, then it sounds like the seal has dislodged or isn't making a sufficient seal.

As stated in Ians' post earlier, my method may not be fully suitable for the older versions of the Bonnet Strip.
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Old 01-08-2012, 23:42   #13
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Any chance someone could post a link to the 2 different rubber strips needed?

Ta

Edit: I found this

http
://www
.ebay.co.uk/itm/170796934900?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 (exuse the gap after http but I can't post a link as newbie!

I'm finding searching for the D profile bumper seal more of a headache. Help appreciated

Last edited by Lostowl; 01-08-2012 at 23:57.
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Old 09-08-2012, 06:39   #14
TimSawf
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There seems to be a lot less of it about than there was last year although I'm sure the seller of the 5mm foam strip you posted was one of the sellers.

This is the type of seal that will work, but as we recently discovered, pre 2008 cars may have a slightly different Bonnet Strip and this method may not work.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Vehicl...item20c94ab676
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Old 09-08-2012, 08:45   #15
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I managed to find some on ebid in the end. Thanks for look though

My car is 2008 and the strip looks slightly different to yours. I have actually followed your guide and although I had to really compress the seal to get it to fit it seems to have worked so far. No leaks - touch wood

And that rubber paint is a cracking idea.

Thanks very much!
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Old 07-11-2012, 19:36   #16
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This will solve problems on winter! Thanks
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