Making sure you get the correct torque

Jimbobcook

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Morning all,

Just wondering if people get special socket sets to get the correct nm on tightening screws etc or if they just do it by guess work?

Just got a copy of Elsawin and it shows all the nm torque settings, never really thought about it before...

Cheers
 

Muttley

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Mar 17, 2006
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Use a torque wrench with your existing sockets. I now have two, one for low torque, needed when I had to replace a glow plug (something you *don't* want to overtorque or have too loose) and an older one for higher torque settings. Anything in the guts of the engine, such as head bolts, should always be done up to the correct torque, and when working on fastenings that go into alloy, observing torque settings will get you proper safe fastening without risk of stripping threads. The most frequent use it gets these days is brake and wheel bolts, brakes because - you know - stopping is important, and wheel bolts because it's much easier to get them off again if they haven't been overtightened in the first place.
 

Jimbobcook

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Use a torque wrench with your existing sockets. I now have two, one for low torque, needed when I had to replace a glow plug (something you *don't* want to overtorque or have too loose) and an older one for higher torque settings. Anything in the guts of the engine, such as head bolts, should always be done up to the correct torque, and when working on fastenings that go into alloy, observing torque settings will get you proper safe fastening without risk of stripping threads. The most frequent use it gets these days is brake and wheel bolts, brakes because - you know - stopping is important, and wheel bolts because it's much easier to get them off again if they haven't been overtightened in the first place.

Thanks for the reply, I have only just started doing this sort of thing for minor stuff until I get more confident, I have seen things like this https://www.screwfix.com/p/teng-tools-drive-torque-wrench/44700#product_additional_details_container which looks like it's changeable for lower torques...

I'd rather not buy Sh*t and pay twice if you get my meaning...

Cheers
 

Legojon

I only wanted a remap
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Thanks for the reply, I have only just started doing this sort of thing for minor stuff until I get more confident, I have seen things like this https://www.screwfix.com/p/teng-tools-drive-torque-wrench/44700#product_additional_details_container which looks like it's changeable for lower torques...

I'd rather not buy Sh*t and pay twice if you get my meaning...

For me it was more a case of buying quality, but stuff I didn't need. Its worth doing loads of research first. I've ended up with a load of sockets I never use. I noticed the torque wrench you linked was 1/4" drive. I have 2x1/4" socket sets and 1x1/4" torque wrench and rarely use them (1 is unused). I mainly use 1/2" or 3/8".

As for torqueing. I always follow the guide for brakes, wheels, anything bolted to the chasis. When eg putting the new diverter valve on, I just did the screws hand tight. I'm sure they have a torque spec... but anything that requires a tiny amount of torque (5nm or less). I don't really worry about.

The best way is getting the tools you need as / when you do a specific job. When I did my first set of brakes I didn't have a 7mm hex in anything but 1/4" drive. So used the tinyiest wrench in the world to crack the bolts. I'm surprised I didn't strip the teeth on it.
 

Jimbobcook

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For me it was more a case of buying quality, but stuff I didn't need. Its worth doing loads of research first. I've ended up with a load of sockets I never use. I noticed the torque wrench you linked was 1/4" drive. I have 2x1/4" socket sets and 1x1/4" torque wrench and rarely use them (1 is unused). I mainly use 1/2" or 3/8".

As for torqueing. I always follow the guide for brakes, wheels, anything bolted to the chasis. When eg putting the new diverter valve on, I just did the screws hand tight. I'm sure they have a torque spec... but anything that requires a tiny amount of torque (5nm or less). I don't really worry about.

The best way is getting the tools you need as / when you do a specific job. When I did my first set of brakes I didn't have a 7mm hex in anything but 1/4" drive. So used the tinyiest wrench in the world to crack the bolts. I'm surprised I didn't strip the teeth on it.

Yeah I like a bit of research but I find that getting something that already works helps for further research, I normally finding myself buying stuff that's way over spec'd for what i need it for lol

I have a low tone horn to replace and it looks like most things are below 5nm so maybe no biggy just thought I would check before breaking everything lol

Cheers
 

Legojon

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I have a low tone horn to replace and it looks like most things are below 5nm so maybe no biggy just thought I would check before breaking everything lol

Should be fine. Just apply some common sense to it. A metal screw will turn and turn and turn into plastic. But if its not holding anything heavy / critical. I usually just stop which it pinches finger tight.
 

Jimbobcook

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Should be fine. Just apply some common sense to it. A metal screw will turn and turn and turn into plastic. But if its not holding anything heavy / critical. I usually just stop which it pinches finger tight.

That's what I usually do but I also like being prepared haha

Cheers for the help
 

Muttley

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Mar 17, 2006
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That Tenq wrench you linked to is what I'd descripe as low torque, at 5-25 Nm you're not going to be doing up wheel bolts or brake bolts with it. My low torque wrench is a Sealey Professional, 3/8 drive 2-24 Nm, the glow plugs on my ARL engine needed 15Nm. well below the range of my older ½" drive wrench.

My old Gordon ½" drive (looks like this one) that I got back in my motorcycling days is 20-100 lb-ft, which, with the Sealey, covers most things. Brake caliper bolts were around 30 Nm, and the wheel bolts 120 Nm.
 
Last edited:

andycupra

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I never used to use them, but on the other hand I didn't really work on anything that critical...
But then I got myself a torque wrench and thought id challenge my current methods and generally I had been overtightening.. wheel bolts for example I had been overdoing.

Do I use one now. - I do on items that require it.
Interesting that the lower torque wrenches tend to be more pricey - presumably as they require more precision manufacture.
 
Last edited:

andycupra

status subject to change
and just thought, - you will be amazed how many people don't know how to use a torque wrench, or don't listen when its explained.

Not that long ago I worked with a FTSE 100/world leader in their field company, one that manufactures parts for the auto industry.
Recently installed new manufacturing line... with change overs taking 4 hours.
My job: - to lean the process, reduce the time, remove variability and reduce breakdowns/lost time...
Okey dokey.. so I got he changeover to 40mins... but the bit that got me was removing downtime during start ups due to incorrect assembly, torque used etc..
So I established correct torque settings, provided torque wrenches.. provided training, tables to refer to.. they managed to apply incorrect settings / forget to reset them..
so I then provided pre-set un-adustable wrenches, colour coded to the bits they applied to.
Can't fail can it?

production technicians.... doing up bolts and nuts, apparently didn't detect the click...
so then I provided breakneck wrenchs so its blatently clear when the torque is achieved.. every time I audited they applied the torque then gave it another yank and 1/4/1/2 turn...
FFS
 

Jimbobcook

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That Tenq wrench you linked to is what I'd descripe as low torque, at 5-25 Nm you're not going to be doing up wheel bolts or brake bolts with it. My low torque wrench is a Sealey Professional, 3/8 drive 2-24 Nm, the glow plugs on my ARL engine needed 15Nm. well below the range of my older ½" drive wrench.

My old Gordon ½" drive (looks like this one) that I got back in my motorcycling days is 20-100 lb-ft, which, with the Sealey, covers most things. Brake caliper bolts were around 30 Nm, and the wheel bolts 120 Nm.
Thanks for the links buddy, it's good to see who uses what. I think for the time being I'll be doing low torque jobs then work towards the big bits lol
I never used to use them, but on the other hand I didn't really work on anything that critical...
But then I got myself a torque wrench and thought id challenge my current methods and generally I had been overtightening.. wheel bolts for example I had been overdoing.

Do I use one now. - I do on items that require it.
Interesting that the lower torque wrenches tend to be more pricey - presumably as they require more precision manufacture.
Yeah I wouldn't be using them unless I'd seen elsawin with all the nm next to everything, currently I'd need to learn what's what but it cannot be hard haha

Cheers

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