110TDI Thread

Yorkshireboxer

Active Member
Jul 6, 2015
41
0
Got a headache lee mate the pipe from thermostat housing keeps pressurising despite the thermo and flange being changed genuine vag parts and the pipe is still stone cold when it's pressurised.

I have tried to remove the air lock leaving cap off with engine running heaters on full for 15-20 mins still nothing also I have the car a good boot to see if there was any temperature rise and to see if the car would correct the lock itself ( I have been told they do this after they have had a thrash?) still nothing ?? Really don't know where to go from here now haha

And I know what us saying about bhp I believe mine is nearer the 90 than the 110 after the years of ware would be interested to get mine on if I eventually sort this haha

-Rob


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Muttley

Catch that diesel!
Mar 17, 2006
4,987
31
North Kent
Full of some sand-like substance? Sounds like someone has put Radweld in it at some stage, which means you may have some blocked waterways. How well does the heater work?

I think the coolant capacity is 6 litres, but I haven't found a solid statement of that fact yet.
 

Yorkshireboxer

Active Member
Jul 6, 2015
41
0
Full of some sand-like substance? Sounds like someone has put Radweld in it at some stage, which means you may have some blocked waterways. How well does the heater work?

I think the coolant capacity is 6 litres, but I haven't found a solid statement of that fact yet.


The heater works intermittently mate nearly always hot but when I tried removing the air lock earlier they went cold not sure if this will help diagnose my problem, the pipe that comes from the head thermostat side, that leads to the bleed valve at the bottom of the rad is stone cold even though other pipes are too hot to touch for longer than a few seconds, would this be a blockage in the pipe or the radiator?

Would appreciate any advice as I am stuck now

And the rad weld explains why my head gasket started blowing before some dishonest sellers about clearly tried to sting me,

Cheers

-Rob


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

Yorkshireboxer

Active Member
Jul 6, 2015
41
0
Full of some sand-like substance? Sounds like someone has put Radweld in it at some stage, which means you may have some blocked waterways. How well does the heater work?

I think the coolant capacity is 6 litres, but I haven't found a solid statement of that fact yet.


The heater works intermittently mate nearly always hot but when I tried removing the air lock earlier they went cold not sure if this will help diagnose my problem, the pipe that comes from the head thermostat side, that leads to the bleed valve at the bottom of the rad is stone cold even though other pipes are too hot to touch for longer than a few seconds, would this be a blockage in the pipe or the radiator?

Would appreciate any advice as I am stuck now

And the rad weld explains why my head gasket started blowing before obviously didn't last very long ,some dishonest sellers about clearly tried to sting me,

Cheers

-Rob


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Seat Leon 1.9tdi 110bhp ASV, BMC CDA,Egr delete, decat,
 

Muttley

Catch that diesel!
Mar 17, 2006
4,987
31
North Kent
The heater matrix is usually the first thing to get blocked by things like Radweld or Bar's Leaks, both of which are quite ancient nostrums, so I'd expect the heater to be on the blink as another sign.

Does the radiator get warm at all? If so then there is some circulation, but it may be poor.

If you can, try to get the bottom pipe off the radiator and have a look to see if it is choked with that sandy stuff. If so, you may get away with flushing it out with water jets, and if some water flows through then filling from the top and flushing the stuff out of the bottom. Best to flush the engine out too and as much of the coolant system as you can, flushing in reverse to the normal water flow. If you get lots of sand out, then it's a good bet that someone has stuck something in the coolant to fix a leak.

Most of these potions are problematic. I used K-Seal on my old TDI 110 Toledo which had a small radiator leak, and it worked well, and didn't block the heater matrix or anything else - it is supposed only to work at the leak, on exposure to air or something, but how it manages to not gum up the header tank in that case is a good question. One of the guys here who does servicing reckoned that K-Seal was just as bad as Radweld, but my friend who is into kit cars (and so works on a lot of old and dubious engines) reckoned it was the exception to the rule, and worked properly.
 

Yorkshireboxer

Active Member
Jul 6, 2015
41
0
Hi Muttley

the pipe from the head to the rad warms up but more often then not its cold, the top pipe to the radiator it's always hot.

If there was damage to the heater core or radiator would this give me the pressurisation I'm getting making the coolant pipes rock hard to the touch until the pressure is manually released from the expansion tank?

Also do you have any links to any threads or videos I can have a look about water jetting the the coolant system not sure how I would go about it.

Thanks

- Rob



Seat Leon 1.9tdi 110bhp ASV, BMC CDA,Egr delete, decat,
 

Muttley

Catch that diesel!
Mar 17, 2006
4,987
31
North Kent
I would guess that damage to radiator or heater matrix would mean a leak and so a lack of pressurisation.

The cooling system is pressurised so I would expect the pipes to be hard when the engine is running. The top pipe will get hot by simple convection, the bottom pipe will always be cooler (as it is the outlet from the radiator).

All I meant by the comment about water jets was that if there is a compacted mass of radweld/whatever blocking the radiator outlet at the bottom, then I'd use a garden hose with a nozzle on it to flush it out. I wouldn't use one of those jetwash things, that's too much.

If you do find there is a lot of crud in the coolant system then giving it a thorough flush with lots of running water seems like a good idea to me.
 

Israar

Active Member
Dec 8, 2014
450
4
Dudley
Got a headache lee mate the pipe from thermostat housing keeps pressurising despite the thermo and flange being changed genuine vag parts and the pipe is still stone cold when it's pressurised.

I have tried to remove the air lock leaving cap off with engine running heaters on full for 15-20 mins still nothing also I have the car a good boot to see if there was any temperature rise and to see if the car would correct the lock itself ( I have been told they do this after they have had a thrash?) still nothing ?? Really don't know where to go from here now haha

And I know what us saying about bhp I believe mine is nearer the 90 than the 110 after the years of ware would be interested to get mine on if I eventually sort this haha

-Rob

Hey Rob, sorry I've not been here mate, man that's gutting :(

I read you took the car to the garage in the end to try and get it sorted, if I recall correctly, you've put it off road for now to be worked on? Correct me if I'm wrong please mate!

Hopefully you can get to the bottom of this fairly quickly as I can believe you heads pounding with frustration :(

Hehe, well hopefully I can get this oil filter done soon, I'll definitely be booking mine for either end of this month or first half of next month for the power test, I'm really dragging my feet and need to pick them up a little! :D

--Lee
 

Yorkshireboxer

Active Member
Jul 6, 2015
41
0
I took it to a garage they performed usual tests and it stumped them lol and not off road yet still looking for a new car (don't want to take this off the road :( )

Have been offered pd150 engine gearbox driveshafts clutch etc out of my friends car that he is breaking decent price but I'm afraid the conversion is too big of a job for me and funds are a bit tight with family life growing to pay someone

Going to try flush the system tomorrow remove all pipes and hose the lot see if anything comes out

I have practically replaced everything I can think of now connected to the coolant system bar the oil cooler could this be a possible culprit? Can I be bothered anymore? Of course I can ;) not giving up yet haha

Thanks Lee and Muttley

-Rob



Seat Leon 1.9tdi 110bhp ASV, BMC CDA,Egr delete, decat,
 

d.mccarthy16

Active Member
Aug 3, 2014
62
0
Does anyone here know what's the max. IQ than can be gotten from the standard .205 injectors? I have a ASV Toledo with a custom remap done by myself. I'm running it at 1.4 bar and the max. IQ I'm getting at the moment is 47 mg/str with the map requesting 52 so it's still running quite lean. Is that pretty much maxed out for the nozzles?

Thanks in advance.
 

Israar

Active Member
Dec 8, 2014
450
4
Dudley
I took it to a garage they performed usual tests and it stumped them lol and not off road yet still looking for a new car (don't want to take this off the road :( )

Have been offered pd150 engine gearbox driveshafts clutch etc out of my friends car that he is breaking decent price but I'm afraid the conversion is too big of a job for me and funds are a bit tight with family life growing to pay someone

Going to try flush the system tomorrow remove all pipes and hose the lot see if anything comes out

I have practically replaced everything I can think of now connected to the coolant system bar the oil cooler could this be a possible culprit? Can I be bothered anymore? Of course I can ;) not giving up yet haha

Thanks Lee and Muttley

-Rob



Seat Leon 1.9tdi 110bhp ASV, BMC CDA,Egr delete, decat,

Hey Rob, any news on your beauty yet mate? Not seen you on in a little while? Hope everythings going OK for you mate! :)

Really love what I've highlighted in your post too! ;)

Does anyone here know what's the max. IQ than can be gotten from the standard .205 injectors? I have a ASV Toledo with a custom remap done by myself. I'm running it at 1.4 bar and the max. IQ I'm getting at the moment is 47 mg/str with the map requesting 52 so it's still running quite lean. Is that pretty much maxed out for the nozzles?

Thanks in advance.

Hey fella, sorry I was late replying to this thread by a while! Unfortunately I'm not able to help on your topic, I've not got the foggiest clue about the nozzle specifications. Might be worth giving Bill a call or make a thread on the Badger5 sub forum to see there, he might be one of the better ones to speak to concerning this mate! Unless you've found out already then I apologise for my lateness in response! :)

--Lee
 

d.mccarthy16

Active Member
Aug 3, 2014
62
0
No worries at all! :) Signed up to a chip tuning forum and everyone is running them at 51 mg/str so I went with that and made a few other adjustments. Car is well able to move now :funk:
 

Yorkshireboxer

Active Member
Jul 6, 2015
41
0
Hey Lee sorry I haven't been on for quite I while nearly put a hole in my head scratching it

after thinking I had fixed it (ran great for 70 miles no problems) on way to Preston with r lass and it died on me. had to be recovered on m62 been parked up until today when I started breaking her.... To put all the performance parts onto my new 110 asv Leon I bought yesterday .

but that has had its own problems like some donut chopped the springs on it, it had the dreaded limp mode problem. so took my donor car today and swapped suspension including shockers to save time as I knew they solid, also had lots of missing vac lines from the reservoir and air filter and the had just been joined with bodged connectors (God knows why?). Took it for test drive still limp was about to torch it when a friend suggested we change the air flow meter 2 minute job we did and now it's a FLYING MACHINE I'm in love again power is amazing.

Tomorrow remove my uprated smic from the donor and re do all the vac lines with new hose for peace of mind as I just put them together quickly earlier to try fix the limp mode. Full service and steam the engine bay, busy busy busy

In short I decided my old 110 would be better in pieces and have fallen in love with another, now I can finally concentrate on styling and performance tuning
f0a28cf1d2bb1ad23ff55cc463da5ce2.jpg


First picture I have taken of her will post more of engine bay and car tomorrow when I'm finished.

Thanks for all your advice with the other car Lee I still haven't given up on her after I have broken completely and got rid of the shell I am going to rebuild the engine as a spare (hopefully I won't need it haha).

-Rob





Seat Leon 1.9tdi 110bhp ASV, BMC CDA,Egr delete, decat,
 

Israar

Active Member
Dec 8, 2014
450
4
Dudley
No worries at all! :) Signed up to a chip tuning forum and everyone is running them at 51 mg/str so I went with that and made a few other adjustments. Car is well able to move now :funk:

What injectors are you running now and sorry to sound dumb founded but I've never messed with injection quantities, etc. So it's jargon in a way to me haha! What is a standard 110 supposed to log out as on idle? I'd like to know whether mine meets what is supposed to be as stock or whether it's injecting more than normal, more out of curiosity haha! As I have VCDS Lite and would like to learn more with it! :D

Glad your beauty is able to move even better now though! :)

Hey Lee sorry I haven't been on for quite I while nearly put a hole in my head scratching it

after thinking I had fixed it (ran great for 70 miles no problems) on way to Preston with r lass and it died on me. had to be recovered on m62 been parked up until today when I started breaking her.... To put all the performance parts onto my new 110 asv Leon I bought yesterday .

but that has had its own problems like some donut chopped the springs on it, it had the dreaded limp mode problem. so took my donor car today and swapped suspension including shockers to save time as I knew they solid, also had lots of missing vac lines from the reservoir and air filter and the had just been joined with bodged connectors (God knows why?). Took it for test drive still limp was about to torch it when a friend suggested we change the air flow meter 2 minute job we did and now it's a FLYING MACHINE I'm in love again power is amazing.

Tomorrow remove my uprated smic from the donor and re do all the vac lines with new hose for peace of mind as I just put them together quickly earlier to try fix the limp mode. Full service and steam the engine bay, busy busy busy

In short I decided my old 110 would be better in pieces and have fallen in love with another, now I can finally concentrate on styling and performance tuning

First picture I have taken of her will post more of engine bay and car tomorrow when I'm finished.

Thanks for all your advice with the other car Lee I still haven't given up on her after I have broken completely and got rid of the shell I am going to rebuild the engine as a spare (hopefully I won't need it haha).

-Rob

Seat Leon 1.9tdi 110bhp ASV, BMC CDA,Egr delete, decat,

Haha, no worries mate so long as you're all good and well! I bet you're glad you're not digging a deep hole in your head now though! :D

Man that is gutting :( How much did it set you back buying a replacement mate? That's if you don't mind me asking that is! Wow :blink: Whoever had that before you did some funky work in the engine bay then. How's the power from start to max? You running sweet as a nut? Mine feels a little nippier now I've got the lines replaced and the new N75, but I'm still not feeling like it's 110, might just be me, I'll find out after I've had a power test done then I can rest assured with what's what! :D

What uprated SMIC have you got and did you do the arch mod for air flow? Haha, you will have to show me a pic of the engine bay after it's been steamed, I want to get my engine bay super cleaned at some point but I've not a clue on how or what to do to clean it. :(

Looking nice from the outside mate, will have to take some detailed shots for us all! :)

I like your plan for rebuilding the engine in the last one, I'd have the same idea just to learn more and what I can get to do, unfortunately I don't have the space or proper living quarters to hold a car on a drive, etc. Just for the pleasure of learning to rebuild an engine! :D

OH!!! Just so you know, this is highlighted JUST for you! Save you keep having to type in all your mods for your own signature, go in to your control panel and edit your signature there, that way you only need to add "-Rob" at the end of your post! ;)

--Lee
 

d.mccarthy16

Active Member
Aug 3, 2014
62
0
What injectors are you running now and sorry to sound dumb founded but I've never messed with injection quantities, etc. So it's jargon in a way to me haha! What is a standard 110 supposed to log out as on idle? I'd like to know whether mine meets what is supposed to be as stock or whether it's injecting more than normal, more out of curiosity haha! As I have VCDS Lite and would like to learn more with it! :D

Glad your beauty is able to move even better now though! :)

I'm till on the standard .205 injector nozzles and getting 51 mg/str on full tilt. At idle I typically get about 4.3 mg/str that's when the engine is warm it's always a bit higher than that when it's cold. The standard map will give 42 mg/str of fuel at most on full tilt and that's at 2000 rpm. It tends to tail after that it's why you'd notice a drop off in power after 2500 rpm. I believe the whole idea behind it is to get you to change gear and optimise fuel economy that's why with any decent map you'll notice it'll pull nearly all the way through the rev range. VCDS lite is great, I now have the full version which is an absolute god send but while I had lite version I used to always do logs from measuring blocks in the engine control module. The data can be opened in excel which is dead handy for knocking up a few graphs to get a feel for what's going on :D
 

Israar

Active Member
Dec 8, 2014
450
4
Dudley
Which is the best measuring block to use when checking the injection quantity? I can't remember if it was 8 or 11 that I was looking at, not 100% sure as I rarely use it and know very very little about it! :D

I've never done any logs yet, not sure on how to do one or set one up, as I said I'm about as basic as basic can be! :rofl:

Thanks for the response back though mate, really appreciate it! :)

--Lee
 

d.mccarthy16

Active Member
Aug 3, 2014
62
0
Which is the best measuring block to use when checking the injection quantity? I can't remember if it was 8 or 11 that I was looking at, not 100% sure as I rarely use it and know very very little about it! :D

I've never done any logs yet, not sure on how to do one or set one up, as I said I'm about as basic as basic can be! :rofl:

Thanks for the response back though mate, really appreciate it! :)

--Lee

I typically log block 01 (rpm, IQ, pump voltage, coolant temp), block 04 (rpm, requested injection timing, actual injection timing, n75 duty cycle) and block 010 (MAF, ambient air pressure, MAP pressure, engine load).

To do a log enter the measuring blocks module in engine, select the blocks you want to log and then click the log button at the bottom. By default it saves it in C-Ross Tech-Logs. If you want to email me some logs I could graph some values if you like and in future you could just copy and paste in new values and it'd update the graphs automatically :)
 

Yorkshireboxer

Active Member
Jul 6, 2015
41
0
Well the smic hasn't been removed from my old asv more or less fully stripped engine bay now though. A friend fitted it for me before going to attempt it my self since this past week I have done lots I thought I would never be able to do :) . Pretty confident I'll be able to do it I'll take pictures and let you know how I get on.

And Lee I paid £400 sterling for it lad wanted a lot more but the car wasn't working correctly and the suspension was ropey to say the least, was pretty much a lemon until it received some much needed TLC.

Hosed out all the head today and flushed coolant system completely, full of rust clearly not been looked after. Replaced thermostat guessing from the rusty water I suspected it wouldn't be in the best condition best to change it for the price.

And the power is unbelievable Mate not sure what it's running at the minute but I'm pretty sure it's over the 110 mark I'm going to fit the smic, air filter, .216 injector nozzles then take it for a dyno and maybe a remap if necessary :) I'll let you know what it's putting out. Won't be for a couple of weeks now still using my golf PD at the minute to get about (hate it :( ) lol couple of weeks I'll put her on road permanently .

The mods so far are full Ss cobra exhaust with back box and decat from turbo, whistles beautifully and I haven't deleted the egr yet :) .

All in all I'm really happy got a bargain as I had my dead car and a dying car now I have a Phoenix haha and cost is minimal as most the work I am doing my self .

And thanks mate I'll look into that signature thing

Not sure if this is allowed but I am breaking this car and anything I don't need I would happily donate to someone in need .

Thanks

Rob



Seat Leon 1.9tdi 110bhp ASV, BMC CDA,Egr delete, decat,
 

GrantCarter

Active Member
Aug 12, 2015
25
0
South Norfolk
Yes! 110s everywhere, glad I'm not the only one.

I bought my '03 110 SE on 72000 now about 95000 and loving it.

No mods as yet but I'm collecting bits, so far I've only got:

Cupra R front+ rear bumpers - with inserts etc
Guides/brackets for fitting

But I plan to fit a front mount at the same time as the bumper swap. I have been thinking about EGR delete but I'm still not 100% sure about it, any advice greatly received ;).
 

d.mccarthy16

Active Member
Aug 3, 2014
62
0
Yes! 110s everywhere, glad I'm not the only one.

I bought my '03 110 SE on 72000 now about 95000 and loving it.

No mods as yet but I'm collecting bits, so far I've only got:

Cupra R front+ rear bumpers - with inserts etc
Guides/brackets for fitting

But I plan to fit a front mount at the same time as the bumper swap. I have been thinking about EGR delete but I'm still not 100% sure about it, any advice greatly received ;).

Very low mileage car, sounds like a nice example! I'd recommend 100% do an EGR delete and at the same time take out your intake manifold and clean it. You'd be surprised how much it gets caked up with the mixture of the CCV oil vapours and exhaust gas, I've seen cars with about 50% of the intake caked in grime! When you delete it straight away you won't notice a power difference because the ecu still requests exhaust gas and will think your MAF readings are wrong as a result. I've mapped plenty of vag diesels and once you delete the EGR function it will give you a slight power increase since it's now replacing dirty exhaust gas with clean air to burn. Your fuel economy will improve, mine went from 53 mpg to a now 60+ mpg once I mapped it out! I also have my CCV vent to atmosphere since I'm running lots of boost and then helps with economy a tiny bit too. :)
 
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