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Mk4 Ibiza FAQ's (6L) 2002-2008 A list of helpful information provided by Mk4 Ibiza/Cordoba owners, for Mk4 owners

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Old 05-03-2007, 19:09   #1
MichalR
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Changing rear brake pads guide

Here is a quick guide about changing rear brake pads on my 1.4 Ibiza Sport. The process should be similar for most Ibizas with disc brakes.


1. Undo the wheel nuts

2. Jack the car up making sure it is stable, place axle stands underneath the rear axel.

3. Take the wheel off

4. Undo the two bolts using a 15mm spanner to hold a nut and a 13mm spanner to unscrew the bolt and take it out


and the bottom




5. The caliper should now be free. It may need a bit of encouraging to take off so use a rubber mallet or a block of wood and a hammer to push caliper off of the brake pads. You may also use a lever to help push the caliper off.





6. Take the pads away from the disc

7. Clean up brake disc and caliper

8. Unscrew the top to the brake fluid reservoir

9. Twist back the piston into the cylinder. This process is easy with a wind back tool purchased from your local motor factors







10. Now that the piston has been moved back, apply some Coppa Slip to the backs of the brake pads to stop any brake squeal occurring



11. Place the brake pad against the disc, friction side towards the disc



12. Put the caliper over the two pads making sure the springs (if you have them) are pressed against the back of the caliper

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Old 05-03-2007, 19:10   #2
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13. Maneuver the caliper into its correct place so you can insert the bolts

14. Screw in the bolts making sure they fit in and you do not cross-thread the bolts

15. Tighten the bolts using a 13mm and 15mm spanner





16. Screw the cap back on the brake fluid reservoir

17. Before lowering the car, pump the brake pedal to regain pedal pressure. At first it will feel extremely floppy…but that is normal

18. Put the wheel back on

19. Remove axel stands

20. Lower the car

Hope that helps

From start to finish it took me 20mins per side

Dont think i have forgotten anything major

Good luck
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Old 05-03-2007, 19:14   #3
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Torque settings for the caliper bolts? 25Nm I think.

Good guide though, and the photos are clear.
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Old 05-03-2007, 19:33   #4
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Cheers matey

Not sure of the torque setting as i did it spanner tight...crude i know but it has never let me down before

Just one more thing to add...you may want to put a bit of Loctite on the bolt before screwing it back into the caliper.

Michal
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Old 09-03-2008, 02:06   #5
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Is there much more work in changing the disks? As mine need doing and it seems pretty easy, also is there anywhere else I should applie copper slip other than the back of the pads?
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Old 10-03-2008, 15:03   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guinness View Post
Is there much more work in changing the disks? As mine need doing and it seems pretty easy, also is there anywhere else I should applie copper slip other than the back of the pads?
Nope...its quite simple...to take the disc off you will need to remove the whole of the caliper and undo the philips retaining screw and from what i remember the disc should just come off...it may need a few taps with a hammer tho.

Just apply some copper slip to the backs of the pads...you may want to put some Loctite on the bolts that hold the caliper in place although its not necessary.

Cheers
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Old 17-04-2008, 12:51   #7
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just done mine today with the help of ur guide thanks the only thing i had a problem with was the 15mm spanner it is tight to get in so you might wanna consider getting a narrow headed one or just grind a standared one down a mm or two also in the set i got with the pads there were four new clips and four newbolts so i didnt have to use any of the old parts 63 euro from the dealer do but worth it i think
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Old 17-04-2008, 14:46   #8
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Can't see the pics because I'm at work, but I did the rear discs and pads on a 52 polo the other day, i think they're the same, so can confirm the guide is spot on!

If anyone has some good advice for taking the phillips retaining screw out of the disc I'd love to hear it. wouldnt move!! Had to drill the thing out in the end after a liberal dosing of wd40 on the screw and some encouragement with the 'tickling stick' still wouldn't budge
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Old 28-05-2008, 18:27   #9
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^^^^^an impact driver is your friend in that situation


can anyone that has done the front pads answer a question as I'm doing my bro's front pads on his 130 sport very soon

do you need any special tools, like on the old fords that needed a 7mm allen key (a size that doesn't seem to exsist in a normal took kit)

Last edited by Nath.; 28-05-2008 at 18:32.
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Old 30-05-2008, 09:49   #10
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yeah i would like to know to as my fronts are nearly ready for doing to
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Old 30-09-2008, 16:24   #11
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nice guide...will defo be doing my own next time!!

dont suppose you know how to do the fronts as well??
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Old 30-09-2008, 21:28   #12
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A front guide would be very welcome
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Old 01-10-2008, 18:58   #13
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Good guide i'm going to use this at the weekend!

The part i don't understand ( noob ) is the cap for the brake fluid..what cap? Is it the one in the engine bay? My dad said something about you unscrew the little nipple when pushing the piston back in then tighten it when it's in?

Also do the brakes need bled when renewing the pads?

Cheers
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Old 13-11-2008, 21:05   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clone View Post
Good guide i'm going to use this at the weekend!

The part i don't understand ( noob ) is the cap for the brake fluid..what cap? Is it the one in the engine bay? My dad said something about you unscrew the little nipple when pushing the piston back in then tighten it when it's in?

Also do the brakes need bled when renewing the pads?

Cheers
You only unscrew the nipple on the side of the caliper when bleeding the brakes, when you push the piston back you want to unscrew the cap to let any pressure out (air or brake fluid). You can bleed the brakes when changing the pads as its only a quick job but not that necessary if the pedal feels good.

I think my front pads will need changing after christmas so ill do another guide then...tbh they are much easier than the rears as you wont need a wind back tool.

Cheers

Michal
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Old 24-12-2008, 00:33   #15
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I have been told that the handbrake needs adjusting when changing the rear pads, if you dont then you end up with to much handbrake lever movement. The mechanic that checked my car out said to move the little levers on the back of the calipers and they work on a ratchet type system. Im afraid i know no more than this so i hope someone else has encountered this on a VAG car and can enlighten us all on how to adjust it properly. My H.B. went from 5-6 clicks to 2 or 3, much better!
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Old 06-03-2009, 16:17   #16
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If you don't have the tool!

I've got to say this is a very well explained post. However if you don't have the wind back tool and don't want to spend out on something you may only use once!

I have managed to wind the piston back using a simple small pipewrench on the edges of the exposed piston. Probably possible with a grip type adjustable too. You must take care not to catch the rubber boot, especially as it gets further back into the caliper but it is relatively easy. I had to persevere with one side as I kept winding but without the pressure which the tool will provide it was reluctant to start winding in. However with perseverence I did manage to wind both back ok.

One other point to mention. Once you have the pads out, take the extra time to lift out the small stainless steel spring clips which the pads slide on as they wear. There is nearly always a build up of rust under them on the steel caliper. Use a large screwdriver to scrape the worst away then wire brush and re-install them. It will make it easier to install the new pads as there is slightly more room! Every little helps.
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Old 25-03-2009, 22:41   #17
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Very good guide! Will come in handy for me in the next few weeks

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Old 27-03-2009, 18:26   #18
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helpful!!
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Old 24-05-2009, 17:55   #19
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guys like you make my life a lot more comfertable, so thanks, thanks a lot
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Old 28-07-2009, 21:19   #20
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Thanks for the guide has given me some tips for changing my mk3 rear pads and discs.
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