removing sump on 1.9tdi
- Thread starter adam kelly
- Start date
According to Elsawin, no, but it does look like there's special tools to aid in doing the job.
can't show images, but this is a copy & paste
Removing and installing sump
t Removing → Anchor
t Installing → Anchor
Special tools and workshop equipment required
t Socket “T”Spanner -U-30013-
t Wrench -U-40051A-
t Manual drill with plastic brush fitting
t Protective glasses
t Silicon sealant → ETKA (electronic parts catalogue)
Removing
– Remove the central soundproofing pan: → Rep. Gr.50
– Disconnect 3 pin electrical connection on oil level and temperature sender -G266-.
– Drain engine oil.
NoteObserve disposal regulations!
– Unscrew the bracket -arrows- for the supercharger air tube, on the oil sump attachment.
NoteLoosen the oil sump bolts on the flywheel side of the engine with the articulated wrench -U-30013- and unscrew them with the spanner -U-40051A-.
– Remove the 3 bolts attaching the gear bell to the sump.
– Unbolt the oil sump.
– Remove oil sump. It may be necessary to release sump by tapping lightly with a rubber head hammer.
– Remove sealant residue on cylinder block with a flat scraper.
WARNING
Wear protective glasses.
– Remove the sealant residues at the oil sump using a rotating brush, e.g. a hand drill machine with plastic brush (wear protective goggles).
– Clean sealing surface; must be free of oil and grease.
Installing
Notet Replace gaskets and seals.
t Observe use-by date of sealant.
t The oil sump must be installed within 5 minutes after applying the silicone sealant.
– Cut off tube nozzle at upper marking (nozzle approx. 3 mm).
– Apply silicone sealing compound -D 176 404 A2- → ETKA (electronic parts catalogue), as shown, to clean sump sealing surface.
Notet The length should have a thickness of 2...3 mm.
t Pass next to the bolt holes, through the inner side -arrows-.
t The sealing compound bead must not be thicker, otherwise excessive sealing compound could enter the sump and block the oil suction pipe strainer.
– Apply the silicon sealant to the clean sealing surface on the conduction frame -arrows-.
– Install oil sump immediately and tighten bolts in the indicated sequence:
– Pre-tighten the bolts -1 … 20- diagonally to 5 Nm.
– Tighten sump/gearbox bolts -arrows- to 45 Nm.
– Tighten the bolts -1 … 20- diagonally to 15 Nm.
Notet When fitting the oil sump to the removed engine, take care that the oil sump is flush with the engine block in the area of the engine flywheel.
t After fitting the sump let the sealer dry for 30 minutes and then fill with oil.
– When fitting the air conduits with the insertion joint, ensure that the attachment clip -arrow- clips audibly into the attachment protrusion -A-.
Installation is carried out in the reverse order to removal, observing the following:
– Top up with engine oil and check level → Fig.
can't show images, but this is a copy & paste
Removing and installing sump
t Removing → Anchor
t Installing → Anchor
Special tools and workshop equipment required
t Socket “T”Spanner -U-30013-
t Wrench -U-40051A-
t Manual drill with plastic brush fitting
t Protective glasses
t Silicon sealant → ETKA (electronic parts catalogue)
Removing
– Remove the central soundproofing pan: → Rep. Gr.50
– Disconnect 3 pin electrical connection on oil level and temperature sender -G266-.
– Drain engine oil.
NoteObserve disposal regulations!
– Unscrew the bracket -arrows- for the supercharger air tube, on the oil sump attachment.
NoteLoosen the oil sump bolts on the flywheel side of the engine with the articulated wrench -U-30013- and unscrew them with the spanner -U-40051A-.
– Remove the 3 bolts attaching the gear bell to the sump.
– Unbolt the oil sump.
– Remove oil sump. It may be necessary to release sump by tapping lightly with a rubber head hammer.
– Remove sealant residue on cylinder block with a flat scraper.
WARNING
Wear protective glasses.
– Remove the sealant residues at the oil sump using a rotating brush, e.g. a hand drill machine with plastic brush (wear protective goggles).
– Clean sealing surface; must be free of oil and grease.
Installing
Notet Replace gaskets and seals.
t Observe use-by date of sealant.
t The oil sump must be installed within 5 minutes after applying the silicone sealant.
– Cut off tube nozzle at upper marking (nozzle approx. 3 mm).
– Apply silicone sealing compound -D 176 404 A2- → ETKA (electronic parts catalogue), as shown, to clean sump sealing surface.
Notet The length should have a thickness of 2...3 mm.
t Pass next to the bolt holes, through the inner side -arrows-.
t The sealing compound bead must not be thicker, otherwise excessive sealing compound could enter the sump and block the oil suction pipe strainer.
– Apply the silicon sealant to the clean sealing surface on the conduction frame -arrows-.
– Install oil sump immediately and tighten bolts in the indicated sequence:
– Pre-tighten the bolts -1 … 20- diagonally to 5 Nm.
– Tighten sump/gearbox bolts -arrows- to 45 Nm.
– Tighten the bolts -1 … 20- diagonally to 15 Nm.
Notet When fitting the oil sump to the removed engine, take care that the oil sump is flush with the engine block in the area of the engine flywheel.
t After fitting the sump let the sealer dry for 30 minutes and then fill with oil.
– When fitting the air conduits with the insertion joint, ensure that the attachment clip -arrow- clips audibly into the attachment protrusion -A-.
Installation is carried out in the reverse order to removal, observing the following:
– Top up with engine oil and check level → Fig.
You need a long 5mm Ball Socket hex drive socket like these:
http://myustools2.amazonwebstore.co...cx.images-amazon.com/images/I/417J43B9ETL.jpg
To reach the bolts by the flywheel, you don't touch anything on the gearbox
http://myustools2.amazonwebstore.co...cx.images-amazon.com/images/I/417J43B9ETL.jpg
To reach the bolts by the flywheel, you don't touch anything on the gearbox
thanks for that guys saved me alot of money if i was goin to remove gearbox was goin to get a new up rated clutch kit.
my mates got some of them tools but he left them at home he said they might fit sounds like they do the job.
got my sump comin tomoz only £60.77 which i didnt think it was that bad.
my mates got some of them tools but he left them at home he said they might fit sounds like they do the job.
got my sump comin tomoz only £60.77 which i didnt think it was that bad.
i service my car every 5k and last time i did it it didnt feel right so i left it i removed my sump plug tonight and it pulled the threads out i drained the oil fitted new sump plug and just carryed on spinnin.
i replace the sump plug every time for the sake of £2 its worth it really but just had a bit of bad luck this time.
Usaully as it has a Fg great hole in it
£35 Euro Car Parts
thats bloody cheap think i might give them a ring tomoz then
think i might give them a ring tomoz then
Thats how much we get them for, the website says £60, try haggling them down
another thing what sealer do i use or is it a gasget on mondeos they use black sealer done loads of them think we will have some in workshop or is it not goin to be the right stuff
Thats how much we get them for, the website says £60, try haggling them down
il give it ago ya dont get anything cheaper if ya dont ask i get trade prices so might do who nos lol
Personally i always use the proper VAG sump sealant, white stuff, bloody expensive about 12 quid a tube but does about 3 sumps
so do i ring up vw or seat and ask for some sump sealer then and they will no what i mean.
Yeah they will know what you mean or Euro Car Parts sell the VAG stuff
PART NUMBER D176 404 A2
ok thanks for the info made me feel alot better now thought it was goin to cost me a bomb for every thing thanks again guys
done my sump today which went fine i put oil in it after work started it up sent car up to check for leaks which there was none.then the worst thing ever happend my car fell of the ramp so a 6ft drop down on to my mates tool box the tool box is fine my front of my car not so good im so gutted.
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