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Old 26-04-2010, 19:21   #1
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Tools to replace LCR Front Brake Pads

I've read the fitting guide and searched (been here long enough to know to do that ) the forum but I can't find any info on what tools I need to change the brake pads on my LCR Brembos.

Also, when I did my Cupra brakes I bought a piston rewind tool, will this work on the brembos? Is it needed? I'm guessing not as the the caliper doesn't get removed so the disc would be in the way.

Will be doing this tomorrow and then booking MOT for Wednesday and Tax day after.

God knows how people manage to spend £1000's on random mods! Maybe cos I have a house I dunno.
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Old 26-04-2010, 19:30   #2
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iam sure its 2 torx bolts behind the caliper .think they are either t 40 or t45 then you need a thin punch to knock the pins out the front that holds the pad retainer in and i think i used a pair of mole grips or stilsens to easy the pistons back
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Old 26-04-2010, 19:32   #3
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it was last year when i did it and ive got a memo like a siev
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Old 26-04-2010, 19:38   #4
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you don't need to remove the caliper or anything; just knock the 2 pins out with a punch and hammer, push the pistons back in by hand with the cap off the master cylinder, copper grease the new pads and put them in. Put the pins and retaining clip back in and your done
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Old 26-04-2010, 19:41   #5
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All the tools I used were a hammer, a punch like above and, er, a bit of tapered 2" x 1" pine, if that can be called a tool. I got the pins out OK after a little encouragement from the punch and hammer; struggled a bit with the pads themselves, hence the wood to nudge/pry/waggle the pads out without apparently doing any harm. Not sure if it's advisable, but it worked for me.

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Old 26-04-2010, 19:42   #6
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im sure the guide lets you know what you need... which from memory is very little.
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Old 26-04-2010, 21:50   #7
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All it really mentions are:

Jack (obviously)
Plastic tweezers (to remove wheel nut covers)
Punch (but not what size of anything)
Screwdriver (if needed use with old pad to lever pistons back)

Seems a lot easier and less hassle than a standard caliper, but I guess maybe that's for ease due to maybe the setup being more race/track focused than a standard car caliper?

Thanks for the info guys, helpful as always
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Old 26-04-2010, 22:02   #8
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They are easier than the norm. Just use a nice flat end bunch and make sure the pins go in same way and sit in the same position and leave the fluid cap off the brake resvoir when pushing the pistons back. The job only gets a bit harder when doing discs as well, as my caliper mounting bolts were horrendously tight and only the might of the impact gun got them off a 28inch breaker was useless!
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Old 26-04-2010, 22:04   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwbassett View Post
They are easier than the norm. Just use a nice flat end bunch and make sure the pins go in same way and sit in the same position and leave the fluid cap off the brake resvoir when pushing the pistons back. The job only gets a bit harder when doing discs as well, as my caliper mounting bolts were horrendously tight and only the might of the impact gun got them off a 28inch breaker was useless!
I had a similar experience with the caliper bolts, though a 12ft scaffold bar over a breaker bar worked a treat
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Old 26-04-2010, 22:10   #10
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I struggled to get my LC calipers off, tried for an hour and gave up, went back to it after a coffee and realised I was trying wrong way...... embarrassing.

Is ther nothing holding these pins in then? Sounds a bit worrying!
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Old 26-04-2010, 22:11   #11
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the pins have a kind of taper on the far end that locks them in place - hence they need tapping in and out with a hammer. Can't really explain the taper thing - you will see what I mean when you take them out
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Old 26-04-2010, 22:14   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dyscontinued View Post
embarrassing.

Is ther nothing holding these pins in then? Sounds a bit worrying!
There are sprung metal "O" ring things on the end of the pins that compress when pushed in to their holes, they hold the pins in untill you tap them out.
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Old 26-04-2010, 22:16   #13
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Quote:
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There are sprung metal "O" ring things on the end of the pins that compress when pushed in to their holes, they hold the pins in untill you tap them out.
that is a far better description than mine!
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Old 27-04-2010, 09:13   #14
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ah I see. I'm sure it'll all be obvious when I get to it like you say.

Thanks guys.
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Old 27-04-2010, 11:20   #15
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Only problem I had when changing my pads was getting the old pads out! Took a lot of wiggling and yanking!
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Old 27-04-2010, 11:20   #16
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^^ Say that ten times ten times fast!
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Old 27-04-2010, 11:35   #17
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hehe.
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Old 27-04-2010, 17:39   #18
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Ok I'm tapping the top pin from the side of the caliper facing away from the car and it's not moving at all. Any advice?
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Old 27-04-2010, 17:44   #19
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when your looking at the caliper face you'll see the edge of the pins, i used a 4 mm allen key and tapped them from the wheel side to the insde. There is a sprung clip as well if you push it down near the clip it takes the tension of and allows the pins to slide out.
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Old 27-04-2010, 19:32   #20
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Ok managed to do that side but was a right arse getting that pin out, and one of the pads, proper welded in.

Now I've come to do the other side after having tea and the top bit is flat, not sure if I'm going to be able to get it out at all, being hitting it more and it's just warping worse.

Grrr.
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