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Old 05-03-2011, 18:22   #1
Klone
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Forge Split R - A Rough Guide

Hi guys,

After looking into a Forge Split R since i purchased the car... i spent hours and i really mean hours looking into the so called "limp mode lottery"

I have also spoken to many different tuning companies about them with varied answers from each.

So, when one came up for sale on here... i snapped it up!

Fitted it yesterday, and drove home 20miles with various levels of boost being used:
  • Gentle town running
  • Pulling away boost
  • Hard over taking boost
  • Prolonged levels of over taking boost (dropped to 30 on the road and then hard accelerated to 70)

None of these caused me any problems. No turbo chattering, No leaking and No drop in pressure (from what i can feel as i am not running a Gauge.)

****I would like to take this time to say the following: I cannot and will not accept any damage if you do follow this guide... its just a rough from all the information i have researched.****


Right, so onto the valve. the valve comes in black or silver obviously... and on taking it apart it only has a spring and a piston... no o-rings just a tiny bit of grease.

The piston moves up and down and lets the pressure back into the engine via the bigger opening, and lets out some via the smaller opening.

The way the valve works is effectively its leaking pressure but all of a sudden giving you a PSSH. its not like a scooby, but certainly sounds nice

Fitting:

Fitting is easy just undo the old jubilees, and cut the cable tie (if not undo the small jubilee) that holds on the hose on the top of the DV

Fit the new one in place, with the trumpet face the front of the car. i have seen that some people mount it so that the trumpet faces the firewall, which i havent tried yet.

tighten up the jubilees and put on a new cable tie if needed.

Tuning:

Now, this is a bit of a trial and error sort of affair. i have found the following around on the internet, but as i said... very trail and error sort thing. what i found as a generic rule of thumb is the following.

The top of the valve has a ratchet system, which sets the amount of boost it "leaks". too much, and you get limp mode, too little and you get turbo chatter.

Turn the valve anti-clockwise all the way until it resists... you will know its at the end.

Then you will need to turn the top clockwise a certain amount of "clicks" to set the air flow.

after searching Audi, skoda, Seat, VW forums and speaking to a whole host of tuning companies... i have made the following list as a rough guide.

Normal engine - no remap: 15-18 clicks
Stage 1 remap - 24-28 clicks
Stage 2 remap - 26-30 clicks

I did mine last night and started at 26 to be safe... and ended up setting to 28 for a bit more PSSH.

I have still got my bonnet liner and you can still hear it as you drive along... but its not mentally loud or chavtastic.

Obviously, if you get limp mode... you need to adjust it, which im afraid is just trail and error... turn the engine off turn one way (i would guess anti-clockwise if you followed the above) and then start the car and test.

I will be monitoring mine over the next few weeks, but as yet... i havent had any problems, and the car is as torquey as ever and boosting as hard.

i hope this guide (if you would call it that) helps some people out and encourages people to get one... but if you decide you dont like the PSSH of it, you can blank it off and run full recirc anyway!

Thanks:

Andy_Lang
Ging3r
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Last edited by Klone; 28-03-2011 at 10:35.
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Old 05-03-2011, 18:43   #2
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Mines been sweet just put it on the way it came lol! Put it a little way clockwise (4clicks?) and it seemed to increase lag in a lift off-press again situation, so back almost to the preset now...

Love the Pssssshhh, turbo power sucks without it (no pun :L)
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Old 05-03-2011, 18:44   #3
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i couldnt find how many clicks its preset at im afraid... but yeah i do love it. Pssssssh
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Old 05-03-2011, 18:49   #4
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We should start a tread for peoples Leon DV videos... I need to get a life.
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Old 05-03-2011, 19:19   #5
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good thread
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Old 05-03-2011, 20:01   #6
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Mine goes psssshhhh, and if i'm just cruising i get a awwwwsome chatter, honestly it sounds better than sex.... lol
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Old 05-03-2011, 20:28   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Topsie View Post
Mine goes psssshhhh, and if i'm just cruising i get a awwwwsome chatter, honestly it sounds better than sex.... lol
your not doing it right then
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Old 05-03-2011, 20:31   #8
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Ha! ^^^^^
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Old 06-03-2011, 12:04   #9
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As sam said topsie. You haven't got your split r set up right matey. That chatter is the turbo stalling and will shorten the life of it...
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Old 09-03-2011, 12:19   #10
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Glad it works well mate, and no probs for the advice I always ment to jot it all down in a thread to make sense - good lad!!

After a run at JKM they had it with the bigger side venting to atmosphere, ie trumpet facing the firewall - ALOT louder than before, but this was only after im on a Stage 2, so guess the extra boost / ram air means I can get away with venting a bit more to the atmosphere as theres so much air going down the TIP anyways. Still no issues for me - a year later and lots of track time!
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Old 09-03-2011, 12:27   #11
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Yeah i spoke to them myself after you mentioned... i dont think i would try it on just a stage 1 though
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Old 09-03-2011, 12:29   #12
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Lol yer I wouldnt want it that way if I was standard! but SO loud - love it! defo adds character with the pops and bangs for the Zorst, and the turbo whine big up the split-r love and try and shake its bad name from the mooks who dont fit em properly!

all hail the Split-r!
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Old 09-03-2011, 12:31   #13
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haha well i only have the whine... for now

but yeah, the forge Split R gets alot of bad press all over the internet, and frankly it is down to the fitting no the valve..
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Old 09-03-2011, 15:26   #14
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i still dont understand how it was be fit incorrectly? standard is 14-18 clicks starting at say 16. How can this be done wrong?
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Old 09-03-2011, 15:28   #15
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a few tuning companies mentioned that some standard cupra's dont like the split r because they are made for a certain amount of air to be recirculated.

Putting in the split r lets some out... therefore drops below the manufactured level...

stage 1+ dont seem to have this problem as they are generating alot more...

that's how i look at it anyway..
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Old 09-03-2011, 15:39   #16
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and would you have set up same as standard of turn it up?
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Old 09-03-2011, 15:41   #17
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yeah for mine... as im running stage one (210bhp) i just used more clicks

its all about knowing the right and wrong noises it should make.

Turbo chatter = bad
Boost leak = bad
Tsssh = GOOD

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Old 09-03-2011, 15:43   #18
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OK. what does turbo chatter sound like? lol
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Old 09-03-2011, 15:45   #19
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turbo chatter is stalling the turbo. a thud thud kinda noise.............. youl know it when it happens - lol! not to be confused with the split r chatter and turbo chatter! all a bit confusing! but basicly turbo chatter is loud, split r chatter is subtle.............
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Old 09-03-2011, 15:48   #20
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ah right ok so it would sound awful and would know straight away? Any way no point messing with something thats perfectly fine is there
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