Cupra 280 Battery replacement

Dec 7, 2020
6
0
Hey guys!

I am planning to change battery for my Seat Leon Cupra 280 myself and I was wondering that is there a risk of anti theft lock being turned on while changing it?

I do not have the capability of using any middleware battery or something that keeps the power on, so it would be basically removal of the old one and putting new in. I did replace battery in my old car and the anti theft lock was turned on, but I was able to solve that by using a spare key at the time. I would not like to go through the same issue with my Cupra or getting it toed to a dealership or anything like that.

I would like to change it myself because the autoshops are charging quite high amount for battery replacement.

-Hema
 

RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,784
983
South Scotland
dealer battery with same part number is straight swap, if different from manufacturer specs then need coding and cupra need to be AGM battery
I agree with Cupra should be AGM, but I see that my daughter's May 2019 Cupra has a factory fitted EFB which is quietly dying, I'll be suggesting that it gets replaced by an AGM version when the time comes, seeing as most younger people tend to be quite frugal I'd think the end will come when the car does not start, either to go to work in winter, or to return home, such is "sensible" minimalist frugal living!
 

Fishbowlhead

Mk3 CupraST 280
Nov 20, 2020
146
80
If it’s a stop/start car, the battery will need to be coded to the car.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
My manual 280 without stop start still needed the battery to be coded to the car, I believe all mk3 cupras onwards need it regardless.
 
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kimimaru

Active Member
Feb 15, 2010
336
29
West midlands
I agree with Cupra should be AGM, but I see that my daughter's May 2019 Cupra has a factory fitted EFB which is quietly dying, I'll be suggesting that it gets replaced by an AGM version when the time comes, seeing as most younger people tend to be quite frugal I'd think the end will come when the car does not start, either to go to work in winter, or to return home, such is "sensible" minimalist frugal living!
you can see how much left of battery in cupra, it tell you charging capacity, anything under 40% car starts to drink a lot more fuel
 

RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,784
983
South Scotland
you can see how much left of battery in cupra, it tell you charging capacity, anything under 40% car starts to drink a lot more fuel

If you are referring to the "battery charge" readings, there are other places to check up on battery stats that give truer indications on the battery's general health as opposed to charge condition.
 

SuperV8

Active Member
May 30, 2019
1,317
578
If you are referring to the "battery charge" readings, there are other places to check up on battery stats that give truer indications on the battery's general health as opposed to charge condition.
Can you explain the best place to check batteries true health? rather than the SOC you can view on the dash?
Would you say open circuit voltage via a DVM is a good indicator?
 

RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,784
983
South Scotland
Can you explain the best place to check batteries true health? rather than the SOC you can view on the dash?
Would you say open circuit voltage via a DVM is a good indicator?
There are areas/channels/fields/groups that you can check within CAN-Gateway that store the car's interpretation of the present "useful capacity", "charge throughput" and "internal resistance of the battery" - recording them maybe once a year must be a good idea as to how things are with the battery.
The trouble with just using a DVM across the battery is, that battery is on load even if the load is not huge. Due to having some issues with a late 2009 Ibiza, I treated my self to a CTEK battery tester/analyser, it is a Midtronics designed tool made in China for CTEK, it can be used across a battery while it is in circuit in a car and seems to give out reliable readings. I have read that with any new battery, prior to fitting it, if you check it with a battery tester, it should return a reading of at least +10% over the CCA rating quoted on the battery case, and for 2 new AGM Bosch batteries I have found that to be true - I've forgotten but maybe the value is meant to be even more than +10%, either way what I found tied in with that. Once in circuit and well charged and with all the car's systems asleep, the measured value should always be at least or near the quoted CCA rating. Maybe annoyingly, the factory fitted AGM battery in my February 2011 Audi S4 that does not get used much (still under 30K miles) but gets its battery maintained with a CTEK charger, was still handing out CCA values very near to its quoted CCA when I replaced it in April/May this year - just as I didn't want to need to buy a new battery when away from home, I considered that 11 years was enough for any battery, no doubt it will find other uses around the house/garage! The EFB in my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS, is an Exide one and it is dying gracefully - I have already bought a slightly larger capacity, but cheaper than if I bought the same capacity as is fitted battery, and AGM Bosch one, for that car, to get fitted hopefully before the original one fails, that car has run 40K miles, a new battery tray and insulator was also needed to do make that change.

The areas/channels that I record are:-
IDE01834 Battery voltage 12.050 V

IDE01836 Battery current -5.589 A

IDE01837 Temperature of battery sensor 24 °C

IDE01838 Battery temperature 9 °C

IDE01839 Battery charge level 75 %

IDE01841 Battery internal resistance 6.6 mOhm

IDE01842 Usable battery charge 24 Ah

IDE01843 Battery voltage at rest 12.5 V

IDE07616 Battery degradation for start/stop mode Phase 1

IDE07681-MAS06086 Battery total charging throughput-Total re-charge 204.5 Ah

IDE07681-MAS06087 Battery total charging throughput-Entire energy throughput 208.2 Ah

IDE08347 adapted battery capacity 64 Ah

The charging throughput values, for that 2015 Polo are skewed a bit because I changed the battery's serial number back in November last year to try to "improve" or extend its useful life - looking back, I should really have logged all these values BEFORE I changed the serial number! Some of these values might have no use at all in real life.
 

SuperV8

Active Member
May 30, 2019
1,317
578
There are areas/channels/fields/groups that you can check within CAN-Gateway that store the car's interpretation of the present "useful capacity", "charge throughput" and "internal resistance of the battery" - recording them maybe once a year must be a good idea as to how things are with the battery.
The trouble with just using a DVM across the battery is, that battery is on load even if the load is not huge. Due to having some issues with a late 2009 Ibiza, I treated my self to a CTEK battery tester/analyser, it is a Midtronics designed tool made in China for CTEK, it can be used across a battery while it is in circuit in a car and seems to give out reliable readings. I have read that with any new battery, prior to fitting it, if you check it with a battery tester, it should return a reading of at least +10% over the CCA rating quoted on the battery case, and for 2 new AGM Bosch batteries I have found that to be true - I've forgotten but maybe the value is meant to be even more than +10%, either way what I found tied in with that. Once in circuit and well charged and with all the car's systems asleep, the measured value should always be at least or near the quoted CCA rating. Maybe annoyingly, the factory fitted AGM battery in my February 2011 Audi S4 that does not get used much (still under 30K miles) but gets its battery maintained with a CTEK charger, was still handing out CCA values very near to its quoted CCA when I replaced it in April/May this year - just as I didn't want to need to buy a new battery when away from home, I considered that 11 years was enough for any battery, no doubt it will find other uses around the house/garage! The EFB in my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS, is an Exide one and it is dying gracefully - I have already bought a slightly larger capacity, but cheaper than if I bought the same capacity as is fitted battery, and AGM Bosch one, for that car, to get fitted hopefully before the original one fails, that car has run 40K miles, a new battery tray and insulator was also needed to do make that change.

The areas/channels that I record are:-
IDE01834 Battery voltage 12.050 V

IDE01836 Battery current -5.589 A

IDE01837 Temperature of battery sensor 24 °C

IDE01838 Battery temperature 9 °C

IDE01839 Battery charge level 75 %

IDE01841 Battery internal resistance 6.6 mOhm

IDE01842 Usable battery charge 24 Ah

IDE01843 Battery voltage at rest 12.5 V

IDE07616 Battery degradation for start/stop mode Phase 1

IDE07681-MAS06086 Battery total charging throughput-Total re-charge 204.5 Ah

IDE07681-MAS06087 Battery total charging throughput-Entire energy throughput 208.2 Ah

IDE08347 adapted battery capacity 64 Ah

The charging throughput values, for that 2015 Polo are skewed a bit because I changed the battery's serial number back in November last year to try to "improve" or extend its useful life - looking back, I should really have logged all these values BEFORE I changed the serial number! Some of these values might have no use at all in real life.
Thank you for the detailed info.
Yes I noticed I get 12.00 - 12.10v with battery connected - with various small loads I presume, pumps/ECU's etc..
And 12.44v disconnected (open circuit voltage) after a few minutes.
 
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