Gear box oil
- Thread starter BEOWULF
- Start date
ive not long changed mine, quite easy to do, il have to find the bottle out to see what brand i used!
You do like to shout AT US, don't you . . . 
There is no recommended change interval for the gearbox oil, so it's up to you. Every service is too often, though. As long as there are no leaks, I change mine at about 100K.
There is no recommended change interval for the gearbox oil, so it's up to you. Every service is too often, though. As long as there are no leaks, I change mine at about 100K.
You do like to shout AT US, don't you . . .
There is no recommended change interval for the gearbox oil, so it's up to you. Every service is too often, though. As long as there are no leaks, I change mine at about 100K.
I thought capital letters where shouting
Just i like to make a bold statement lol
But thanks for the info men will get it cahaged as i dont think its been done in the last 8 years lol
What oil is best ????
Your info block on the left is full of shouting: BEOWULF and the rather lame I AM IN FRONT OF YOU
I would refill with OEM spec oil, but there are two different specs depending on the gearbox you have: not the engine, the gearbox itself. You aren't supposed to mix the two, so if completely refilling you need to make sure you get all the old stuff out first if you're going for something new.
Others have preferences for aftermarket oils: do a search and see what people have posted.
I would refill with OEM spec oil, but there are two different specs depending on the gearbox you have: not the engine, the gearbox itself. You aren't supposed to mix the two, so if completely refilling you need to make sure you get all the old stuff out first if you're going for something new.
Others have preferences for aftermarket oils: do a search and see what people have posted.
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lol did BEOWULF not shout when he was attacking Grendel lol "I AM BEOWULF"
and i am all ways in front of you is exactly what it means lol
will have a read up on the oil.
and i am all ways in front of you is exactly what it means lol
will have a read up on the oil.
i need to change the gearbox oil, i've heard of high quality gearbox oil which gets rid of 3rd gear crunch, i forgot the name
smokiefr
Guest
Just had my gearbox oil changed for some 75w90 fully synthetic...... BIG MYSTAKE.
Caused crunching from 1st>2nd and 2nd>3rd that was not there before. I have now changed the oil myself for OEM from the Seat dealer and it is like a new box... perfect.
Caused crunching from 1st>2nd and 2nd>3rd that was not there before. I have now changed the oil myself for OEM from the Seat dealer and it is like a new box... perfect.
Deleted member 48395
Guest
I'm glad I'm not the only one who experiences this, I was beginning to wonder if my gearbox was on the way out! At 92k I may change my oil soon...
So my best beat is go to a stealer and get the oem oil then cheers for the info guys
I will probley just get my local stealer to do the job and save all the hassle lol. Will have to work a sunday to pay them tho.
Looks like gearbox oil is becoming the next hot topic, sure there's been a few threads asking about this recently 
In the 6-speed 02M box your best bet is the OEM oil from SEAT.
The 5-speeders seem to respond better to alternative oils like the Redline 75-90 or Royal Purple.
I had the same crunching after trying Redline oil, switched back to OEM and all was silent again, and has been for the last 4 years.
In the 6-speed 02M box your best bet is the OEM oil from SEAT.
The 5-speeders seem to respond better to alternative oils like the Redline 75-90 or Royal Purple.
I had the same crunching after trying Redline oil, switched back to OEM and all was silent again, and has been for the last 4 years.
OEM gearbox oil from seat is obviously the right stuff, and its less than a fiver for a litre (you need 3 litres).
Ive heard horror stories about people using uprated or race spec oil, as its no good at low temperatures (emulsifies with condensation) and only has a short lifespan. Ultimately, VAG wouldnt put the stuff in if they thought it wouldnt last the 100k.
You will need a specialist tool to get the drain plug out though. Its a double-hex (12 point) security (dimple in the middle) 1/2" drive adaptor. I think its an M16 size, and you can get them from Halfrauds for about a fiver too.
Gearbox oil is usually good for 100k, so no biggie.
Ive heard horror stories about people using uprated or race spec oil, as its no good at low temperatures (emulsifies with condensation) and only has a short lifespan. Ultimately, VAG wouldnt put the stuff in if they thought it wouldnt last the 100k.
You will need a specialist tool to get the drain plug out though. Its a double-hex (12 point) security (dimple in the middle) 1/2" drive adaptor. I think its an M16 size, and you can get them from Halfrauds for about a fiver too.
Gearbox oil is usually good for 100k, so no biggie.
Check the drain plug on your car before buying any tools, it might be a 14mm hex key you need instead
Check the drain plug on your car before buying any tools, it might be a 14mm hex key you need instead
Fair point!!
Drain and fill plugs differ widely between gearboxes. Check what *you* have before buying any special tools. My gearbox, for instance, has boring big-hex plugs.
did my LCR not so long ago, felt alot better afterwards. i brought genuine vag stuff not cheap just under £50 for three bottles think it takes 2.3l?? part number G 052 171 A2 double check this is right oil for your car. the tool i used for the filler and drain plug was a M16 spline socket. to fill the gearbox up i just used hose pipe, and feed it through the engine and out the top, i found it better then trying to fill it up through the side.
Need to get mine changed at its service next week. 1.6, 73k. I assume its never been changed and I get 2nd and 4th gear crunch (and audible creaking) when it's warm. Smooth when cold bizarrely.
You sure its a fiver a litre? Last month I paid around £15 per litre so was about £45 to do the complete change.
danny m wrote
i brought genuine vag stuff not cheap just under £50 for three bottles think it takes 2.3l?? part number G 052 171 A2 double check this is right oil for your car.
It really does depend on precisely which gearbox you have.
I copied this from another poster last year; it gives the OEM oil for six-speed boxes
"Quantity 2.6litres
Gearbox codes DRP / FMP / FHA / FHT / FEK / FEL / FGT / FGV / FZM / FZP / FMQ / EFF / ERF / FMH
Use Gear synthetic oil API GL4 SAE 75W in accordance with standard TL 521 71 (Spare no. G 052 171 A2)
Gearbox codes DRV / EFY / EUK
Use Gear oil API GL4 SAE 75W 90 in accordance with standard TL 521 57 (high performance synthetic oil)"
The Seat manual states
"* There is a new type of mineral gear oil API GL4 SAE 75W (Hypoid) in accordance with TL 726 /Y. This type of oil can onlybe used in gearboxes where it has been specified and must never be used in gearboxes that incorporate the previous oil API GL4 SAE 75W90 (Synthetic, high performance).
* Due to the incompatibility between these types of oils, they must never be mixed as the change the properties of the lubricant."
I read that as saying that contamination of either oil with the other will degrade it dangerously, even if you drain the gearbox. In fact it is difficult to drain a gearbox completely, there will be puddles of the old oil left trapped behind support webs and in the bearings.
For my car (TDI 110 Toledo) I could have EBF or EGS boxes: EBF uses synthetic oil, EGS the later mineral oil: otherwise they are identical, same ratios, same outer casing. I suppose its possible that the bearings might be different to take account of the different oil, but I'd be surprised if that were so.
i brought genuine vag stuff not cheap just under £50 for three bottles think it takes 2.3l?? part number G 052 171 A2 double check this is right oil for your car.
It really does depend on precisely which gearbox you have.
I copied this from another poster last year; it gives the OEM oil for six-speed boxes
"Quantity 2.6litres
Gearbox codes DRP / FMP / FHA / FHT / FEK / FEL / FGT / FGV / FZM / FZP / FMQ / EFF / ERF / FMH
Use Gear synthetic oil API GL4 SAE 75W in accordance with standard TL 521 71 (Spare no. G 052 171 A2)
Gearbox codes DRV / EFY / EUK
Use Gear oil API GL4 SAE 75W 90 in accordance with standard TL 521 57 (high performance synthetic oil)"
The Seat manual states
"* There is a new type of mineral gear oil API GL4 SAE 75W (Hypoid) in accordance with TL 726 /Y. This type of oil can onlybe used in gearboxes where it has been specified and must never be used in gearboxes that incorporate the previous oil API GL4 SAE 75W90 (Synthetic, high performance).
* Due to the incompatibility between these types of oils, they must never be mixed as the change the properties of the lubricant."
I read that as saying that contamination of either oil with the other will degrade it dangerously, even if you drain the gearbox. In fact it is difficult to drain a gearbox completely, there will be puddles of the old oil left trapped behind support webs and in the bearings.
For my car (TDI 110 Toledo) I could have EBF or EGS boxes: EBF uses synthetic oil, EGS the later mineral oil: otherwise they are identical, same ratios, same outer casing. I suppose its possible that the bearings might be different to take account of the different oil, but I'd be surprised if that were so.
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