Getting to the end of my fecking tether...

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Deleted member 74601

Guest
Hey guys, bare with me on this one, it's going to be a long one.

I've been having an ongoing problem with my car, that the dealers have been unable to 'diagnose' despite numerous attempts. This has been ongoing for over 20,000 miles now, and started last November. I drove down to London, left the car parked up for 2 weeks and drove home. All was fine, until my next fill up. Since then, my car has had low power, which has got gradually worse, going from intermittent to 'there most of the time', and is also suffering from other symptoms. Over time more symptoms have presented themselves, and some have been ruled out.

As it stands these are the symptoms I'm seeing:

Low Power - The car feels more difficult to move away in first (also kinda like the pedal has a deadzone), and there is a lot of feedback through the clutch pedal (vibrations in time with engine RPM). When you put your foot down, at around 1,500RPM (which is always where I've driven from) the car takes about 2 seconds before it starts to feel like it's on boost, and slowly builds up to boost. When it feels correct on power, I don't get this hesitation. It also feels as though something is 'blocked' somewhere. It feels like trying to blow through a pipe with 3 holes in it, but you've covered up 2 of the holes and only left one open, so there is less air flow and this feels restrictive at motorway speeds.

More engine breaking - The car is not rolling as freely as it used to. I noticed this because there is a hill near me where, before this problem, if I was doing 30mph in 3rd, and took my foot off the accelerator, the engine breaking would keep me at 30mph. Now, with this problem, the engine braking is slowing me down on the same hill.

Difficulty starting - This wasn't there at first, but came later, and at temperatures of around 5.5ºc and less, the car is harder to start in the morning. Some mornings it's taking at least 3-4 seconds to tick over, where as usually it would start straight away. The longest it took was 7 seconds, then it spluttered, tried for another second and kicked into life.

Clutch - The clutch sometimes feels.. strange. It feels as though the bite is engaging at the normal point (about halfway up the pedal movement) but it feels as though the bite is long, i.e I have to keep moving my foot up to near the top of the pedal before the clutch fully engages, which makes the bite point feel high.

Worse in cold weather - The above is all worse below about 6ºc, up near 10ºc it feels a bit better.

So far, it's been to the dealers 6 times, up until the last time, they said nothing was wrong. I.E they were scanning for fault codes and sending me on my way. I got SEAT customer service involved, and after a couple more visits, the technician at said dealers said to me 'I think it could be the turbo vanes sticking'. They told me they would speak to SEAT about the next step to take. I then get a phone call from SEAT telling me that the garage has reported nothing wrong! I argued with them but all the guy was saying on the phone was 'we have to trust the garages'.

I then took it to another garage, who didn't think there was a fault, but wanted to take the car in for a couple of days to physically check everything over. SEAT refused this as my warranty ran out that week, and as no definite fault was found, they wouldn't cover this under warranty. They would only cover good will if a fault was found. This meant I would have to pay ridiculous dealer labour rates to get it checked over, with no guarantee they'd find a fault, and leaving me out of pocket.

I'm now thinking about going to an independent, but was just interested to think why you guys might be the problem.

P.S Now you know why I hate dealers.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Jun 7, 2006
2,983
0
Norfolk, Norwich
where are you??

its hard to say what to do here. i trust my local seat but then my mate is teh master mechanic there so i know i will get good service. that said i drive a few hours to bedford to get my car looked after by AKS tuning. love the service i get from Alex by far the best and knowledgeable person i know.

if you can get it to him his will sort it.
 

Deleted member 74601

Guest
I live up near Liverpool unfortunately, so that's a bit away from me :p
 

Jarre

Active Member
Dec 9, 2011
5,365
11
Stockton-On-Tees
Trade it in and get a different car :) I bet no garage would even bother to test drive it before accepting it as a trade.
 
Last edited:

shnazzle

Glass-Half-Full Member
Sep 9, 2011
3,483
6
Northumberland
Trade it in and get a different car :) I bet no garage would even bother to test drive it before accepting it as a trade.

This.

I traded in my old Leon for my new one and they never even went to the forecourt to look.
Took the details and mileage.

Yours is not worth the hassle anymore it seems.
 

MasserS

Active Member
Apr 13, 2011
106
0
North West
I feel for you here mate, but like suggested above - I'd probably quit when im ahead and trade it in (and post the reg on here :p)
 

/dev/null

Active Member
Nov 12, 2008
1,649
101
Hey guys, bare with me on this one, it's going to be a long one.

I've been having an ongoing problem with my car, that the dealers have been unable to 'diagnose' despite numerous attempts. This has been ongoing for over 20,000 miles now, and started last November. I drove down to London, left the car parked up for 2 weeks and drove home. All was fine, until my next fill up. Since then, my car has had low power, which has got gradually worse, going from intermittent to 'there most of the time', and is also suffering from other symptoms. Over time more symptoms have presented themselves, and some have been ruled out.

As it stands these are the symptoms I'm seeing:

Low Power - The car feels more difficult to move away in first (also kinda like the pedal has a deadzone), and there is a lot of feedback through the clutch pedal (vibrations in time with engine RPM). When you put your foot down, at around 1,500RPM (which is always where I've driven from) the car takes about 2 seconds before it starts to feel like it's on boost, and slowly builds up to boost. When it feels correct on power, I don't get this hesitation. It also feels as though something is 'blocked' somewhere. It feels like trying to blow through a pipe with 3 holes in it, but you've covered up 2 of the holes and only left one open, so there is less air flow and this feels restrictive at motorway speeds.

More engine breaking - The car is not rolling as freely as it used to. I noticed this because there is a hill near me where, before this problem, if I was doing 30mph in 3rd, and took my foot off the accelerator, the engine breaking would keep me at 30mph. Now, with this problem, the engine braking is slowing me down on the same hill.

Difficulty starting - This wasn't there at first, but came later, and at temperatures of around 5.5ºc and less, the car is harder to start in the morning. Some mornings it's taking at least 3-4 seconds to tick over, where as usually it would start straight away. The longest it took was 7 seconds, then it spluttered, tried for another second and kicked into life.

Clutch - The clutch sometimes feels.. strange. It feels as though the bite is engaging at the normal point (about halfway up the pedal movement) but it feels as though the bite is long, i.e I have to keep moving my foot up to near the top of the pedal before the clutch fully engages, which makes the bite point feel high.

Worse in cold weather - The above is all worse below about 6ºc, up near 10ºc it feels a bit better.

So far, it's been to the dealers 6 times, up until the last time, they said nothing was wrong. I.E they were scanning for fault codes and sending me on my way. I got SEAT customer service involved, and after a couple more visits, the technician at said dealers said to me 'I think it could be the turbo vanes sticking'. They told me they would speak to SEAT about the next step to take. I then get a phone call from SEAT telling me that the garage has reported nothing wrong! I argued with them but all the guy was saying on the phone was 'we have to trust the garages'.

I then took it to another garage, who didn't think there was a fault, but wanted to take the car in for a couple of days to physically check everything over. SEAT refused this as my warranty ran out that week, and as no definite fault was found, they wouldn't cover this under warranty. They would only cover good will if a fault was found. This meant I would have to pay ridiculous dealer labour rates to get it checked over, with no guarantee they'd find a fault, and leaving me out of pocket.

I'm now thinking about going to an independent, but was just interested to think why you guys might be the problem.

P.S Now you know why I hate dealers.

What model is it? PD170?
 

Deleted member 74601

Guest
It's a 1.6CR /dev/null.

It doesn't really make financial sense to get rid. The fuel economy is down, but not so much that its worth changing cars over. Plus I've done 30,000 miles in the past year, so depreciation is a bitch. I get expenses from work but you have to keep the cars a few years before you regain your money.

It's more annoying and a pain on the arse than being a major problem because the car is still driveable, but if its going to lead to a big bill late I'd rather get it sorted now whilst ill still get money from SEAT.
 

MJ

Public transport abuser
Apr 22, 2008
5,508
13
Manchester
m.facebook.com
Could very well be an injector issue, these CR injectors are nothing like PD units as such they can have all sorts of unknown issues - causing symptoms like the OP has.

A leak-back check of the injectors or the removal and inspection of the fuel filter might be more worthwhile.
 

Jarre

Active Member
Dec 9, 2011
5,365
11
Stockton-On-Tees
Thing is, since your car is out of warranty you're going to pay for everything. All diagnosis, parts and labour. At this point in time you don't know what it is... Injectors cost a fortune and I wouldn't be wanting to buy one. You could end up wishing you had traded it and got a new car once you start spending on it!
 

bigbadjay

Active Member
Jul 16, 2011
1,670
26
North Manchester
Try belting the arse off it, for a change. It might sort it out , or , highlight the problem more.

Surely if ray has good dealer service history AND reported the fault prior to the warranty running out they SHOULD do it FOC. If not MAKE THEM.
 

Deleted member 74601

Guest
Are a leak back test and compression test different?

Can anyone recommend any garages in the area to try other than Volksmaster/Awesome or are they going to be my best bets?
 

MJ

Public transport abuser
Apr 22, 2008
5,508
13
Manchester
m.facebook.com
A leak back measures the return flow of fuel from the injectors - from this you can gauge the amount of wear on each injector.

The flow control solenoid on the top of the pump can also cause loss of power, uneven idle and cutting out.
 

Deleted member 74601

Guest
Well, I just had a quick look at the fuel filter today. The filter itself looked okay (it was changed about 3k miles ago) However, when I removed the lid there were small metal shavings visible on top of the filter.

Googling this seems as though it's not a good sign, but some people say it's normal to see 'some' flake inside the filter housing.

Any advice?