Hesistation on part throttle...

[Mr OCD]

As mentioned it was there before remap...

 

[dmmsta]

Are all these "issues" with hesitation on part throttle anything to do with the fact the a lot of these cars are DBW instead of cable throttle, and the hesitation is to do with the signal being sent by the throttle position sensors on the "go pedel"?

As I understand it it's just a contact on a slide contact (bit like an old skool volume knob on a stereo or a variable resistor), and altho it may not throw any error codes it just isn't quite as smooth as a cable

I am be talking complete kack, but just seems like something that hasn't been thrown into the pot before...

 

[Neil_Ireland]

Reset throttle body using guide on here without vagcom...

Did you do it by opening the bonnet and turning on the ignition and leaving for a few mins while you hear the throttle body noise?

I tried this way and it didn't make any difference, I have a feeling this does not work. I did the reset with vag-com and there was a huge difference after.

Neil.

 

[Mr OCD]

Did you do it by opening the bonnet and turning on the ignition and leaving for a few mins while you hear the throttle body noise?

I tried this way and it didn't make any difference, I have a feeling this does not work. I did the reset with vag-com and there was a huge difference after.

Neil.

Indeed I did ...

BUT my cousin has just been round with his BOSCH diagnosics box and read the ECU... no fault codes present at all

So we did the throttle body realignment (basic settings) which has done something as the settings changed from before / after...

I'll let you know how it goes tommorrow...

Last thing left to do now is to sort the starter motor bearing....

Had a look at the service info as well and apparently my Cupra doesnt need long life oil ...

 

[martziniuk]

Check the hoses under the inlet manifold, they can split and cause part throttle hesitation. This happened to me, at first i thought it was the remap.

 

[stevegti6]

Interesting, I've got similar issues since getting custom code. You expect the car to pull back when you take your foot off the throttle but its more unusually jerky and doesnt make the car feel very smooth to drive. It's a little like if you have changed down a gear and the revs are still to high when you take your foot off the clutch suddenly only not so pronounced.

I also get some hesitation and what feels like fluctuating boost as the car is starting to boost. Once you've got full power on and the revs up it goes like a train.

I have replaced my MAF and logged it at well over 200g/s so I'm sure the MAF is fine, I was thinking it might be n75 and have checked for boost leaks as well. May look at taking my throttle body off and giving it a good clean since I doubt it's ever had one.

i get the same problem with my custom code stage 2 i just live with it had it from day one does not do it every day nothing to worry about

 

[Mr OCD]

Update...

Done a couple of hundred miles in the car this weekend ...

Its DEFINATELY hesistating on acceleration... bang on 2700rpm as well... once driven through this bit then it pulls smoothly all way up to high rpm's...

DIAGNOSICS shows no faults at all.

Throttle body realigned via software

Where do I go next?

 

[xd-data-ii]

Does the revs drop at all at that point and then start building again?

Might be a slipping clutch. Thats around the peak torque rpm so would make sense.
Had the same issue and it was corrected by getting the mapping redone and the peak torque dropped a bit around that rpm
If it is the issue and was there before your car was remapped looking like an expensive fix. Hopefully not.

 

[Mr OCD]

Does the revs drop at all at that point and then start building again?

Might be a slipping clutch. Thats around the peak torque rpm so would make sense.
Had the same issue and it was corrected by getting the mapping redone and the peak torque dropped a bit around that rpm
If it is the issue and was there before your car was remapped looking like an expensive fix. Hopefully not.

Nope it doesnt... carries on accelerating through that point - feels like a flat spot imho as in power starts coming in... stops for split second then comes back in and takes off...

 

[Mr OCD]

Worth trying disconnecting MAF on way home?

 

[xd-data-ii]

not for all the way home. just for a few minutes.

then think about n75.

I got rid of that same thing in my car by getting the mapping further modified. All i can really recommend. As you could spend loads on parts that dont need changing. I thought my MAF was the problem and wasted €100 on it and made no difference and turned out to be the mapping.

 

[Mr OCD]

Trouble is mate I'm convinced its not the mapping as problem was there prior to the remap - saying that I can easily revert back to standard map in 5mins to try it ...

I can disconnect MAF tonight on way home then pull into services 8mile down road to reconnect it ...

N95 will flag up on VAGCOM?

Thanks for your help so far btw - much appreciated

 

[Mr OCD]

Ok ... disconnected MAF and the car drives better... much smoother ... only drove for a couple of miles as didnt want to run on to the motorway with it disconnected... connected it back up and straight away the hesistation / misfires start again...

So new MAF?

 

[Mr OCD]

Went out late last night with the MAF disconnected when the roads were quiet and noticed the car feels faster with the MAF disconnected - how come?

There is still a very very tiny flutter about 3krpm but its rock smooth now accelerating and decelerating at low and high rpm...

So I'm thinking change MAF, change plugs, air filter and fuel filter and reset ECU?

I'm going down to GSF today hoping they will have the MAF on the shelf...

 

[xd-data-ii]

may as well. Just change the maf. The rest may be completely unnecessary expense.

Bear in mind that when you reset the ECU it should feel better but if the issue is still there is will eventually resurface. Drive it hard right after resetting the ECU for a while.

 

[Mr OCD]

I did check the air filter last night and it was very dusty so think a new one and clean airbox out would be a good idea with the new MAF...

I dont know when the plugs / fuel filter were last changed... I assume June last year when it was serviced and I'm not sure what intervals these should be changed at?

 

[traumapat]

Went out late last night with the MAF disconnected when the roads were quiet and noticed the car feels faster with the MAF disconnected - how come?

QUOTE]

mafs tend to either go...or fade away. the ecu works with the readings to sort the fuelling. as soon as the maf was unplugged the ecu had to revert to its safe settings to fuel the car. your maf is giving the wrong info to the ecu.

new maf should sort this.

still think youll get that flat spot though

 

[Mr OCD]

mafs tend to either go...or fade away. the ecu works with the readings to sort the fuelling. as soon as the maf was unplugged the ecu had to revert to its safe settings to fuel the car. your maf is giving the wrong info to the ecu.

new maf should sort this.

still think youll get that flat spot though

Why's that then? - with MAF disconnected there was no noticable flat spots just a very slight blip at about 3000rpm...

I was wondering about the VVT this morning on the AUQ engine and when it comes into play... anyone know?

 

[munkimafia]

Have been reading this thread as my 52 plate Cupra also seems so stutter, especially in 2nd, around the 2k rev mark, as soon as i give it more throttle it seems to settle down.

Sorry to sound an idiot, but what is a MAF, and how can I disconnect it to check if it is that as well?
Cheers

 

[Mr OCD]

Have been reading this thread as my 52 plate Cupra also seems so stutter, especially in 2nd, around the 2k rev mark, as soon as i give it more throttle it seems to settle down.

Sorry to sound an idiot, but what is a MAF, and how can I disconnect it to check if it is that as well?
Cheers

MAF = Mass Air Flow Meter

Its situated right next to air filter... 70mm diameter pipe with a sensor in it - unplug the sensor and go for a drive