Changed my key battery now the red telltale light on fob not working and wont unlock car any ideas ?
key fob not working
- Thread starter biker1200dct
- Start date
Where did you get your replacement battery from? There are lots of fake batteries for sale on well known online auction sites.
If the battery in your spare key fob is OK you could try unlocking your car using your spare key fob. You could also try the battery from your spare key fob in the key fob you normally use - If it unlocks the car, you’ll know it’s the new replacement battery that’s the problem.
If the battery in your spare key fob is OK you could try unlocking your car using your spare key fob. You could also try the battery from your spare key fob in the key fob you normally use - If it unlocks the car, you’ll know it’s the new replacement battery that’s the problem.
Also make sure you’ve refited the battery facing the same way it was in the first place. Also did you change the battery as the key fob wasn’t working? In which case it’s probably the fob not the battery.
You need the bright red light to show on the remote as well as the voltage across the battery. I found some manky batteries measure the target voltage but dont put out the amps to illuminate the led in the remote very well and don't work. Clearly volts isn't every thing with manky batteries (Watt = volts × amps ?). Have an Ateca thread but suspect it is the same remote. Newer Aronas ones take the 2032 battery, older ones 2025. You can wedge a 2032 in a 2025 remote. An old Skoda trick.
Hopefully it hasn't forgotten the settings. Don't think you can go wrong with Duracells from Amazon Prime or a reliable shop with said batteries and a long use by date. Panasonics are fine. Was supplied with them. Kessy can be taxing if you have that.
www.seatcupra.net
Hopefully it hasn't forgotten the settings. Don't think you can go wrong with Duracells from Amazon Prime or a reliable shop with said batteries and a long use by date. Panasonics are fine. Was supplied with them. Kessy can be taxing if you have that.
Remote battery CR2025 / CR2032 Replacement
ODBEleven reported that both keys were getting problematic on the error check. B147918 - Remote key 1 Voltage too low static B147A18 - Remote key 2 Voltage too low static I didn't get a screen warning thou. Had the car since November 2016, built in September so judged...
www.seatcupra.net
I've found that the 2025 batteries in these fobs are very weak, even the same brand from a reputable source didn't work. Instead I crushed a 2032 inside, the battery doesn't sit in the clip properly but you can just get the cover to close.
The extra thickness gives nearly double the mAh, so lasts much longer in storage and use.
The extra thickness gives nearly double the mAh, so lasts much longer in storage and use.
I noticed this when I replaced the CR2025 in my key recently. One new big name battery didn't work properly and a different brand new battery did, one Energizer, one Duracell. Definitely a bit weird.
That's the thread I posted, an "old Skoda trick". What I left out first time round in writing it, is the bradel you use to pop the battery out with, you insert as you close the case to keep the battery snuggly down as the case clip holds the battery in rather than the battery clip in the case. Think my new Duracells were more slippery than the Panasonics that kept bouncing out and prevented the case from closing or using the technique once leads to that effect
. Still side inserting a bradel to keep it in position as you finally close the case is the secret.Became evident that measuring the voltage with a meter isn't everything since duff batteries pass that test but still are not capable of powering the remote as you say. You got to have the voltage high as the thread and see a bright glow on the remote LED with a new battery, you can get the high voltage and it still doesn't work, check the LED brightness on the remote and it's dim. That's what happened on my remaining just going out of date unused Panasonic battery. You know when your co-driver is careful with money and you want to do a complete change rather than penny pinch ?. Creates more work.
The old
Watts = Volts x Amps
The volts can be correct / pass the test when measured on a new battery but if the battery can't deliver the amps it's not going to work.
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