hey Nexus_french mine is a 02 reg mk 4 1.4 100bhp AUB engine code had 125 out of it the other day n wasnt quite on the redline ! whoopa
mk4 1.4 induction kit?
- Thread starter Brads91
- Start date
125!
In what dyno mate and what mods?
Arround here those little engines were also popular and most of the young drivers who tuned them inc myself as it was my old car, and 125hp with a remap remap full exhaust and induction was impossible...
To be more exact.
My last beeza had 4-2-1 header, cold air induction which is the best performing induction compared to BMC etc, 200cpsi free flow catalyst, resonated custom exhaust with 48mm diameter piping, REVO remap, IK20 sparks etc and 117-118 HP is what most of those engines performed.
Only a few tuned engines with custom remap (since REVO is not the best performing one) reached 120hp....
You need performance camshafts etc to reach and exceed 125HP ...
So could you give some more details on your setup
In what dyno mate and what mods?
Arround here those little engines were also popular and most of the young drivers who tuned them inc myself as it was my old car, and 125hp with a remap remap full exhaust and induction was impossible...
To be more exact.
My last beeza had 4-2-1 header, cold air induction which is the best performing induction compared to BMC etc, 200cpsi free flow catalyst, resonated custom exhaust with 48mm diameter piping, REVO remap, IK20 sparks etc and 117-118 HP is what most of those engines performed.
Only a few tuned engines with custom remap (since REVO is not the best performing one) reached 120hp....
You need performance camshafts etc to reach and exceed 125HP ...
So could you give some more details on your setup
Hes right. I know from first hand this as i own both for my 1.4 which is driven by my father now.
Especially on high revs the forced induction is a lot better. The shorter the distance to the throttle body the better the performance.
125mph?
I got it wrong then.
on a small downhill with 5 lads in my 1.4 , and the above mentioned setup, with stock header though having just the pre catalyst removed i remember i also hit the rev limiter in 5th gear...215 km/h
We were driving to another city where a friend of mine was meant to drag race his tuned fiat punto GT 3 , but his car broke down just before the race so i had to take with me all the lads...lol...Good old days
Especially on high revs the forced induction is a lot better. The shorter the distance to the throttle body the better the performance.
125mph?
I got it wrong then.
on a small downhill with 5 lads in my 1.4 , and the above mentioned setup, with stock header though having just the pre catalyst removed i remember i also hit the rev limiter in 5th gear...215 km/h
We were driving to another city where a friend of mine was meant to drag race his tuned fiat punto GT 3 , but his car broke down just before the race so i had to take with me all the lads...lol...Good old days
Thats exactly how I want to run it!! So is this using a PD130 or PD160 intake?
Thats freaking awesome, looks great
How much HP would you gain with something like this? If its more than 10 i'd consider one myself
No more than three I should say. But a bit of impouvement on torque (that's what happen with mine)
BTW, what cams would be good to have? I don't want a rough iddling, just something a bit better than stock! I'm asking as some of you talk about it. And were to buy them (I need info to my next big mod!). All input and website link apreciate!
BTW, what cams would be good to have? I don't want a rough iddling, just something a bit better than stock! I'm asking as some of you talk about it. And were to buy them (I need info to my next big mod!). All input and website link apreciate!
yeah it was 125mph lol i was on my own with no back seats ! i wish i could get 125bhp out of it lol i get tempted to lob a polo gti in it. i still think that induction kit of ebay looks the best im gona get one when my banks recovered from ayia napa!!!
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290379515559&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290379515559&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
First of all that induction is not the best performing..why do you all insist in BMC CDA configurations?
Keep the money and stay a few more days in ayia napa...forget about the induction...
after all itll cost you even more as youre roll a lot in the first couple of days due to the nice sound they produce
Keep the money and stay a few more days in ayia napa...forget about the induction...
after all itll cost you even more as youre roll a lot in the first couple of days due to the nice sound they produce
yeah good plan my cars ****ed anyways lol my passenger window fell down n one of the cables is all ****ered so its half door half floorboards atm! wankstain!! cba to fix it either, my handbrake light keeps flashing n shouting at me when i give it some aswell, its just passed its mot n now its being a right problem child! ![[:@]](/forums/styles/seatcupra/oldforumsmileys/furious.gif "Furious [:@]")
AUB!!!! sweet.
I need info on this engine code.
Could you take more pics of it (side, up, bit behind) especially the intake part?
Except from the intake and the spark plug wire, it's similar to the BBY. BTW, can you tell me the color of your injector (the ring on the base of it)?
Thanks for the pictures.
It confirm what I was thinking. The AUB engine and the BBy engine are really similar except for some "details".
Should be no problem to fit the air intake with injectors.
BTW, can anyone recommend me a good website to buy some Schrick camshafts?
I'm asking because I'm wondering if I go with the stock AUB camshaft or go with some Schrick 260 (depending on the price)
And is 260 a good compromise? (no rought iddling, and pass the MOT easy)
It confirm what I was thinking. The AUB engine and the BBy engine are really similar except for some "details".
Should be no problem to fit the air intake with injectors.
BTW, can anyone recommend me a good website to buy some Schrick camshafts?
I'm asking because I'm wondering if I go with the stock AUB camshaft or go with some Schrick 260 (depending on the price)
And is 260 a good compromise? (no rought iddling, and pass the MOT easy)
Cams wont fail you an MOT really, unless there something wrong with them, rough idling is down to how lively the camshafts are, the more agressive the cams the rougher the idling, but that can usually be sorted by adjusting or having a remap, as for buying the cams, just google it or try ebay and see what comes up.
Yuor best off doing your research and finding what cams give the best performance for the price. as with my old car that i nearly cammed, it was around £300 for a 15bhp increase, but was nearly £500 for around 17bhp increase, which inst really worht the extra cost.
Yuor best off doing your research and finding what cams give the best performance for the price. as with my old car that i nearly cammed, it was around £300 for a 15bhp increase, but was nearly £500 for around 17bhp increase, which inst really worht the extra cost.
Dessy
Guest
Hey Dessy, saw this in the feed haha. Will reply to your other post when at home later.
What camming refers to is altering or changing the cam shaft in your engine. The cam shaft is what controls the intake and exhaust valves, the timing of when they open and close in relation to the crank angle and the duration they are open.
If you have a standard CAM shaft you can potentially adjust the timing of the cam shaft by advancing it or retarding it in relation to the crank angle. Advancing opens the intake earlier allowing more air to initially flow into the cylinder, increasing low end torque and power. Retarding delays the opening and closing of the intake valve, this is more beneficial at higher rpm when induction pressure increases, resulting in more power at higher rpm.
You can ofc buy uprated cams, which change the duration or lift of the valves.
Duration is the period of time the valve is open for in relation to the crank angle. An uprated cam shaft will have increased duration, this allows more air into the cylinder, and thus increases power that can be created. However valve clearance has to be considered.
High lift cams use higher cam lobes which allow the valve to open more, effectively letting more air in, but in reality a standard lobe with a longer duration will produce more power through the rev range.
Both have disadvantages, they both produce valve overlap, this is where the exhaust and intake valves are open at the same time, causing a rough idle at low rpm, (like old school race cars). Thus sacrificing low rpm torque for higher power at higher rpm.
Ofc both cams must be set up correctly to ensure valve to piston crown clearance. However high lift cams at high rpms can cause valve bounce. This is where the valve springs can not keep up with the valves causing the valve to not follow the cam lobe profile causing engine failure. This only happens with over revving an engine more than its designed. This can be solved however with higher compression springs.
You can see a rather noticeable difference in power figures and engine response with the correct cams.
Dont confused cam timing with ignition timing though, that however will need to be adjusted to suit your cams.
I don't know a lot about cams but hope that helps.
Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
What camming refers to is altering or changing the cam shaft in your engine. The cam shaft is what controls the intake and exhaust valves, the timing of when they open and close in relation to the crank angle and the duration they are open.
If you have a standard CAM shaft you can potentially adjust the timing of the cam shaft by advancing it or retarding it in relation to the crank angle. Advancing opens the intake earlier allowing more air to initially flow into the cylinder, increasing low end torque and power. Retarding delays the opening and closing of the intake valve, this is more beneficial at higher rpm when induction pressure increases, resulting in more power at higher rpm.
You can ofc buy uprated cams, which change the duration or lift of the valves.
Duration is the period of time the valve is open for in relation to the crank angle. An uprated cam shaft will have increased duration, this allows more air into the cylinder, and thus increases power that can be created. However valve clearance has to be considered.
High lift cams use higher cam lobes which allow the valve to open more, effectively letting more air in, but in reality a standard lobe with a longer duration will produce more power through the rev range.
Both have disadvantages, they both produce valve overlap, this is where the exhaust and intake valves are open at the same time, causing a rough idle at low rpm, (like old school race cars). Thus sacrificing low rpm torque for higher power at higher rpm.
Ofc both cams must be set up correctly to ensure valve to piston crown clearance. However high lift cams at high rpms can cause valve bounce. This is where the valve springs can not keep up with the valves causing the valve to not follow the cam lobe profile causing engine failure. This only happens with over revving an engine more than its designed. This can be solved however with higher compression springs.
You can see a rather noticeable difference in power figures and engine response with the correct cams.
Dont confused cam timing with ignition timing though, that however will need to be adjusted to suit your cams.
I don't know a lot about cams but hope that helps.
Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
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