Please help

[Malvis]

Hi I drive a m1 Leon 1.4 petrol 2003

So I was sitting in my car and the car was running perfect and all of a sudden the car just went dead and when I went to try start it again all the cluster lights didn’t turn on when I turned of the ignition and the petrol pump also dosent kick in ... the battery it good and also tried to jump start it and nothing .. but if I turn on my headlights or indicator it shows up in my dash .. the I changed relay 100 under the dash cause it was the only one that was getting warm with the ignition on .. anyone have any ideas on what I should do ?

 

[Battoussai]

HI there. When you tried to jump start does it keeps cranking? And is it a continuous cranking or a dying cranking? Or it just doesn't make a sound?

 

[Malvis]

HI there. When you tried to jump start does it keeps cranking? And is it a continuous cranking or a dying cranking? Or it just doesn't make a sound?

Yes it a continuous cranking, sounds pretty healthy, found out today that fuel pump does kick in , just dosent start over the clusters

 

[Battoussai]

First I would check the engine with VCDS (vag-com). Do you have one? Or somebody who can assist you with one?

 

[Malvis]

Yes be were waiting on it to come back as we gave a lend

 

[mty12345]

If the relay was hot and replacing it hasn't helped, I would suspect some sort of short circuit. The headlights and hazards are pretty much the only things that don't run through that relay circuit, so it would make sense that could be the problem. Either that or possibly a fault with the ignition barrel switch

 

[Malvis]

Hmm I suppose.. is the ignition barrel switch the connector that plugs into the barrel ? And if it’s that what do I need to do to fix it ?

 

[mty12345]

Have you checked the 5 big fuses inside the black case on top of the battery?
Do you know that your new relay is good? It's always possible that the new one was faulty. Have you tried testing it? If you have a multimeter then apply 12v to the coil contacts and check to see if it energises the relay and you get continuity across the main contacts. If so then you can rule that out.

After that I would check that you have 12v and a good ground on the appropriate pins coming up to contacts in that relay board where the relay plugs in. (BE CAREFUL!!! Those main contacts have a LOT of current going to them, and i think the only protection between you and the battery is something like a 110amp fuse)

Once you know that the relay is good, and you have good power and grounds, only then would i check the ignition barrel switch. I'm not sure exactly how it's wired but if you have a multimeter it shouldn't be too hard to work it out by probing the pins/wires as you turn the key. Then check that you also have continuity between the barrel and the relay.
Edit..........Here you go. https://workshop-manuals.com/seat/l...witch_and_starter_motor_and_sealing_cylinder/

Hope that's some help.