Seat Ibiza 2011 Boot Won't Open

[VectorF22]

Hi

The boot wouldn't open so I decided to take the latch apart and clean the connectors. This worked perfectly and the boot was opening again for all of about 2 minutes.

Now it won't open again, but I can hear a clicking sound from the fuse box when the boot latch is triggered, so the latch no longer appears to be the problem.

I've checked every single fuse in the dash fuse box but can't find any blown fuses. I also can't find anywhere what fuse would even be responsible for the boot latch system (No fuse guides ever mention the boot latch).

I'm a bit stumped now. It's frustrating because it was working when I cleaned the connectors, but now it's not.

Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated, thanks!

 

[CW92]

Does it open properly when you manually open the boot (from the inside and sliding the key in the emergency release)?

If this works I would maybe check Fuse 48 (Locking Unit - 15 amps) as from what I have read in the manual the boot release is connected to the central locking system.​

 

[VectorF22]

Thanks for the reply!

Yeah it opens when you release the latch from the inside.

I've checked fuse 48 and it's fine.
I was able confirm it by testing the central locking system with the other doors and they work with the fuse connected.

 

[RUM4MO]

Just one thing, did you close the hatch to try it after cleaning the contacts, or did you just "trip" the latch and operate the fob boot release? If you just tripped the latch and operated the boot release fob button with the hatch still up or not fully closed, then it might be a wire broken in the bunch of cables between the hatch and the body of the car - or the lock needs adjusting as the finger of the latch is too highly loaded - or maybe it is it that needs clean up and lub'ng.

 

[VectorF22]

Yeah, after fixing it I tried the boot multiple times with the latch (I wasn't using the key fob) and it worked as you'd expect.
It just didn't take many tries before it stopped working again.

Before my first fix I manually tripped the latch by bridging the two cables that go into it (thus bypassing the latch component entirely). That's how I knew the latch was the original problem and why it worked briefly after I cleaned the contacts in there. The problem is that test no longer works, which suggests it's now something else.

Like I say, I can hear a clicking noise (almost like the sound of an indicator) coming from the fuse box under the dash when I trigger the latch, which suggests at least one of the cables is sending a signal down to the dash. I've already checked all the cables I can see and they seem fine. I'll give it another go, just to be sure. I just don't know what the chances are of a cable breaking minutes after I've fixed the latch haha.

 

[RUM4MO]

I asked that question in that way just in case there was a broken wire in/near the "bend point" and if you only checked the operate with the hatch always raised, then doing it that way might have masked that issue by forcing the broken wire to bridge temporarily, then when you actually closed the hatch that broken wire would end up being open circuit - that is all.

Hopefully you still have the rear hatch trim panel off, as getting them off and on and can a proper pain in the neck/hands etc.