Stuck going into 1st gear and reverse... normal?
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I've had this on every VAG car I've ever owned 5 in total, but the worst by for was my old Audi B7 A4 2.0tfsi. It was a complete nightmare if you stopped at lights on a hill. Every time it wouldn't go into first or it would go in then jump out as it probably wasn't in right. I spoke with the VAG specialist garage I used at the time and they told me that this is a characteristic of VW boxes and told me a work around that definitely helps. So basically what you do is select another gear, 3rd or 5th I used and then try first, it should go in and you will be good to go.
This is a proof that idiots are world wide.
Every VW "specialist" in the world is saying the same thing - its a feature, hahaha, cant believe, really !! Well trained they are!
Workaround ? What a garbage !!! An absolute garbage.
You must be the biggest VW fan ever since you have had this problem like always but you still bought a VW again.
Anyway, i dont want to listen to their s*it doing anything.
Ordered new original cable ends, both.
Will try with that + cable adjustement afterwards + gearbox oil change.
Cant get this out of my head...
Every VW "specialist" in the world is saying the same thing - its a feature, hahaha, cant believe, really !! Well trained they are!
Workaround ? What a garbage !!! An absolute garbage.
You must be the biggest VW fan ever since you have had this problem like always but you still bought a VW again.
Anyway, i dont want to listen to their s*it doing anything.
Ordered new original cable ends, both.
Will try with that + cable adjustement afterwards + gearbox oil change.
Cant get this out of my head...
Last edited:
Ok, i did it !
1. Gear fluid changed. Motul 75W-90. A mechanic told me (i saw it, also) that there was very low stock oil level in the gearbox, not more than 1.5l at best !
2. Changed the gear linkages ends and did adjustment.
Its too early to say but there is change, not so incredibly big or something but there is .
The 1st seems to be better (no hard stucking for now), reverse too and shifting now feels softer.
Now, there are issues regarding linkage adjustment.
I did it by the book (Leon manual). In fact, i did it several times, last time without the seat belt, i havent seen anyone doing it and ive watched a billion of videos regarding it, although it sais in the manual that after you put the gear lever in neutral and ensure it with the 5mm pin, you should put the seat belt around the gear lever.
Also, it sais in the manual that the cables should be "inserted, free of tension" meaning inserted in the cables (the way i got it!) so i was trying not to let the cable go out from the ends while locking them. Contrary, a Dieselgeak guy in his manual for VW's say that you need to pull put the slack from the ends (not sure what slack means, only guessing) but he was pulling the cables on the other side, towards the windshield! Totally opposite than i did. In his other video, he doesnt do it at all, pulling cables at all, just unlock and lock them again.
All in all, i now know how to do it, even without moving anything under the hood so i can play but i am wondering which is the best method as i would like to do it and forget abot the damn gearbox!!
1. Gear fluid changed. Motul 75W-90. A mechanic told me (i saw it, also) that there was very low stock oil level in the gearbox, not more than 1.5l at best !
2. Changed the gear linkages ends and did adjustment.
Its too early to say but there is change, not so incredibly big or something but there is .
The 1st seems to be better (no hard stucking for now), reverse too and shifting now feels softer.
Now, there are issues regarding linkage adjustment.
I did it by the book (Leon manual). In fact, i did it several times, last time without the seat belt, i havent seen anyone doing it and ive watched a billion of videos regarding it, although it sais in the manual that after you put the gear lever in neutral and ensure it with the 5mm pin, you should put the seat belt around the gear lever.
Also, it sais in the manual that the cables should be "inserted, free of tension" meaning inserted in the cables (the way i got it!) so i was trying not to let the cable go out from the ends while locking them. Contrary, a Dieselgeak guy in his manual for VW's say that you need to pull put the slack from the ends (not sure what slack means, only guessing) but he was pulling the cables on the other side, towards the windshield! Totally opposite than i did. In his other video, he doesnt do it at all, pulling cables at all, just unlock and lock them again.
All in all, i now know how to do it, even without moving anything under the hood so i can play but i am wondering which is the best method as i would like to do it and forget abot the damn gearbox!!
Can it be you have mount issues, which cause play?
I would remove battery and battery tray and take a good decent look at the gearbox mount.
Stick the car in gear with the engine off and handbrake off and then have someone push it back and forth to feel for mount play.
I would remove battery and battery tray and take a good decent look at the gearbox mount.
Stick the car in gear with the engine off and handbrake off and then have someone push it back and forth to feel for mount play.
I gave you some advice...
Honestly hope you find the solution, cause those drive me nuts also, but the subframe has a lot of play on these cars, which affects geometry and component position and, even if you adjust correctly the cables, the tolerances might change if the subframe shifts.
I know well the problems I had with my manual Octavia VRS make and with my DSG Leon.
Do not exclude the mounts.
Also, do no check the mounts with the car on a lift - it tends to be that when there is no load in Suspension it all appears to be fine.
You need a ramp to check this properly or then check it on the ground.
Honestly hope you find the solution, cause those drive me nuts also, but the subframe has a lot of play on these cars, which affects geometry and component position and, even if you adjust correctly the cables, the tolerances might change if the subframe shifts.
I know well the problems I had with my manual Octavia VRS make and with my DSG Leon.
Do not exclude the mounts.
Also, do no check the mounts with the car on a lift - it tends to be that when there is no load in Suspension it all appears to be fine.
You need a ramp to check this properly or then check it on the ground.
Thank you my friend.
Your garage is incredible!
Anyway, it was important for me to do as much as i can.
It would continue to stress me a lot if i didnt.
I am dissapointed in VW gearboxes .
This also might be a problem with the clutch kit doesnt disengage well, mechanic told me that when i told him that sometimes it so easy to shift into 1st when the wheels are slightly moving.
All in all, construction problem.
What was the problem with your Octavia manual ?
Your garage is incredible!
Anyway, it was important for me to do as much as i can.
It would continue to stress me a lot if i didnt.
I am dissapointed in VW gearboxes .
This also might be a problem with the clutch kit doesnt disengage well, mechanic told me that when i told him that sometimes it so easy to shift into 1st when the wheels are slightly moving.
All in all, construction problem.
What was the problem with your Octavia manual ?
It was starting to do the same thing your car does, but I got rid of it before it got really bad.Thank you my friend.
Your garage is incredible!
Anyway, it was important for me to do as much as i can.
It would continue to stress me a lot if i didnt.
I am dissapointed in VW gearboxes .
What was the problem with your Octavia manual ?
The clutch kit has been changed under warranty at 12.000km.
At 6.000km a gearbox has been changed - also under warranty.
This did not resolve the problems but in the official garage there are no mechanics who would be interested in resolving a problem, they dont know to fix anything, just to change part for part.
At 6.000km a gearbox has been changed - also under warranty.
This did not resolve the problems but in the official garage there are no mechanics who would be interested in resolving a problem, they dont know to fix anything, just to change part for part.
Well, just because they changed it, it doesn't mean they changed it right
If they did that without changing the master cylinder along with the clutch, if is well possible it would fail.
If they did that without changing the master cylinder along with the clutch, if is well possible it would fail.
Ive done adjustment again becouse i didnt get the slack out like i should.
Now its much better. 1st was never this good. Literally one milimeter makes a difference between fail and good job. I lost 2nd until i made additional slight adjustment.
I think it cant be better now.
Now its much better. 1st was never this good. Literally one milimeter makes a difference between fail and good job. I lost 2nd until i made additional slight adjustment.
I think it cant be better now.
And I know you don't like this answer, but it is true all the VAG manual boxes are a lil' bit like that.
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